Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2000 GLS Idles Around 1000 RPMs When Started
Dec 28, 2014
So lately my 2000 Jetta GLS hasn't been running that smooth I can tell when I'm changing gearing and when I start the car and the car idles around 1000 RPMs. I think it may be the engine miss firing because some times I can feel the car shaking but I have no check engine light. Lucky... Also the coolant is leaking idk what the exact problem is but everywhere I go there is a puddle of coolant under my car.
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Reconditioned engine 5,000 miles ago. Last maintenance check at dealer found nothing wrong. 2000 Honda CRV.
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I have a 2005 Chrysler 300C ( original owner )Mileage 172,000 and I take care of my car. I use full synthetic oil and change it every 5000 miles. I noticed a hesitation between 1000 and 2000 RPM's. It disappears after 2000 RPM's. The Chrysler dealer kept doing repairs and claimed the problem was gone and it is still there. The dealer did a full tune up, induction service and also replaced the EGR valve, gasket and seal. The problem gets worse in higher mountain altitudes.
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I leased a 2015 Honda CR-V AWD LX on March 11, 2015. The following day I noticed a rough vibration/shuddering/chattering that appeared to be coming from the transmission when the rpms ranged between 1,000 and 2,000. The roughness was evident at any speed (mpgs) when the tachometer reading was between the previously stated range. The service technician reported feeling the same roughness, but noted that the problem was characteristic of the CRV with a CVT transmission. On Tuesday March 17, I went back to the dealer and discussed the problem with the service manager. He also stated that he was aware of that particular problem and that it was peculiar to the 2015 CRV with the CVT transmission. He took my car for a test drive and admitted feeling the chattering. It was also evident to me as I sat in the passenger’s seat. He then took out another new CRV and it too exhibited the same characteristics.
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My V8 is "sputtering" between 1000 - 2000 RPMs. Not only can you feel it, but you can see the tachometer bounce up and down as well. No problems accelerating or putting the engine under load - it's only between that RPM range where there seems to be hesitation. The car is not giving any fault codes, and I just recently had all plugs and coils changed. (The car ran great for 2000 miles following the plug and coil change.) It started on a road trip, and I took it to the local dealer. They thought it was bad gas. (I've since run several tank fulls through it...)
My suspicion is a mass air flow meter beginning to go, but until it triggers a fault, I can't say for sure. The dealer wants to check the MAFs values and to do a fuel tank pressure test to see if it's the fuel pump. I do have the Real Driver warranty, but they will not cover investigative costs. I'm not too excited about throwing money to test a bunch of different things.
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I recently got the EGR system in my 1998 Rav4 working (replaced VSV) after driving with it non-functioning for several years. Without the system functioning, the engine ran great, but fuel efficiency suffered. Now, when the engine is warm only, the engine knocks and lugs between 1000 and 2000RPMs. This usually occurs right when I shift into 2nd gear. There are no engine trouble codes.
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I have a 2000 b5 wagon with a 2.8 5spd with 200k on it .... Its slammed on coils and i get this squealing in reverse i dont know what it is i just rebuilt the front end ie control arms... also have a nasty vibration from 1000rpms to 3000 rpms could that be engine mounts/snub mount?
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So,I have a mk4 GTI vr6 . I've got an idle that moves about 25 rmps up and down. As well as the throttle hesitation between 2.000 and 3500 rpms only at mid throttle. Has a kinda new maf. That I cleaned. clean THrottle body kinda new coil pack and wires , new plugs. Tried a lot it all worked but it's still there.
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I have an 89 Celica GT that idles at 2000 RPM when first started up and even when it's warm it is still at about 1500 RPM. How to lower that? I failed my emissions test because it put out too much CO and the idle speed was one of the suspected problems.
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I have a 2000 Celica GTS that idles a little rough it has 118000 miles on it.. Fluctuates between 500 rpm and about 1100 rpm. Doesnt always do this, usually after ive been driving for a while. I also may have a rod knock, what parts would i need to fix both of these issues? Me and some friends can do the work ourselves, i just need the parts.
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I have a 2003 Jetta. After it runs for awhile, if I have to shut it off and start it back up - I have to pump the gas to get it started and it idles high and gets flooded. I can smell gas after it gets started. A mechanic already replaced the ignition coil, which wasn't the problem at all.
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I have been experiencing a strange sort of loud induction/air turbulence/chirp noise right when I begin to apply the throttle at 750-1000 RPMs. It's the type of induction noise you would expect to hear from a car with an open filter intake if you shifted into 6th gear at very low speed(bogging, chirpy noise) Only been happening for a week.
I have an APR intake, and my initial thought was that maybe the tone of the intake had changed a little since it has gotten colder....but you actually cannot even hear the noise under the hood, let alone near the intake. It is only noticeable from inside the cabin. It happens regardless of clutch engagement and a/c. Car drives fine other than that.
It started happening with the soundaktor unplugged. I actually plugged it back in since then in hopes that it might mask the noise.
Video (GTI 6MT)
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So over the weekend my 2000 jetta VR6 started leaking coolant and getting way to hot. So i parked it at work and eventually got it towed to a friends shop. I haven't looked at the car since then so bear with me on the descriptions I'm giving as they are just what he told me over the phone. I'm going to try and get to the shop in the morning to check it out some more. He says I have a leak in 2 hoses that look like they are just rotted out.
First hose he says "Comes from the back of the head and is about a half inch wide. it goes into a Y and then the top half goes into a smaller hose." The 2nd hose he says "on the top of the coolant bottle there is a line that goes across the back of the firewall then comes into a rubber hose and from that hose their is a T going into other places."
Obviously that's not a lot to go on. and when I'm looking at replacement hoses at shops online I'm not seeing ones that match these descriptions really. I've been looking for a diagram or some kind of illustration of these hoses so that i can send it to him and he can figure out which ones they are but I have not been able to find one.
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So I've been having this issue for a while and I think I know what it is, just wanting to confirm it is the problem before I go fixing it. My car idles at high RPM's, at around 1-2k when I am sitting at a stop sign or stop light. I replaced the MAF sensor but that wasn't the issue. I assume that it is the throttle body or the sensor.
Also, I came out the other day to park my car in the garage and I saw a huge puddle of water where the passenger puts his/her feet. It was all in the carpet and I just dried it up. It was raining out but I don't think I have a leak or anything. I was told it might be my heater core that went out and that the AC is the problem.
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2000 VW GOLF 2.0L, manual, ~190k miles
Driving down the highway my CEL started flashing and the engine power dropped at the same time. I drove two miles to my destination and the idle was very rough and the power was still very low. The codes were P0300, 0301 and 0304.
The coil was replaced about 2 years ago. The plugs have never been replaced. About 2 weeks ago I had a solid CEL with the codes P1255 and P0422... I purchased a new ECT Sensor but did not yet make time to install it.
Could everything be related to the ECT? Or do you think there are multiple issues?
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I have a 2004 VR6 GTI and it's burning around a quart every 1000 miles. I understand that it could be the notorious piston ring issue, but I am running heavyweight oil and it still seems to be burning. I'm currently running 20w-50 (That is what the previous owner was running and I figured I shouldn't switch it up). There doesn't seem to be a leak either... Are any additives worth a shot?
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My car is idling at 1000 rpm for a few minutes when I start it, why? Just started a few days ago...
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I own a 2000 Ford Escort ZX2 with an automatic transmission. I also own a 1991 Fleetwood Cadillac with an automatic transmission. Each car has its own situation.
The ZX2 idles high (about 1000 RPM) and rumbles pretty roughly while idling. I was curious as to what the cause might be.
The Cadillac has a blown head gasket and I was wondering how expensive and what would go into fixing this myself or just how much it would run going through a dealer.
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My 2009 Hyundai Accent 3-door GS (I believe) recently starting idling around 1,000-1,400 RPM. The car (since I bought it new) has always read "0" on the tachometer when I was stationary. Nothing has happened to suggest this problem would appear.
The engine isn't very loud to begin with, so I'm not absolutely positive that it isn't just an error with the tachometer, but I THINK that the car is actually idling higher than usual. The tachometer works fine otherwise, when I am driving.
What could be causing this and the corresponding fix? The car is under warranty, so I want to attack this issue as soon as possible.
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I just noticed that when I turn on the rear defrost the car idles in neutral at 1000 rpm as soon as I turn it on then when I turn out off it goes back to normal. Why its doing this so I need to know what is going on....
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I cleaned the throttle body with CRC throttle body cleaner and now the motor idles at 1000-1300 rpm. Is this normal for a newly cleaned throttle body? How can I bring down the idling rpm?
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