Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2000 - Coolant Boiling Inside The Engine?
Nov 21, 2014
VW Golf 2000 2.0 GLS engine auto. 158,000 km
Observation 1: The coolant flange broken 3 times, which appear to be caused by pressure inside.
Observation 2: I drove it today to see the problem. During normal driving upper hill, the temperature turned to be higher than normal. 1 or 2 minutes later after red light, I turned off the engine. And then driving for 2 minutes after the green light, the temperature read appeared to go back to normal (a tiny bit higher than normal). Further driving 5-7 minutes, the temperature reading went to the high end again. So I stopped, opened the engine cover and can hear water boiling sound inside the engine. The coolant in the expansion tank was much higher than normal (above the maximum). The coolant is Prestone (not G12).
I would guess that coolant is not flowing inside. But the problem appears to occur randomly. A water pump issue? (replaced at 90,000km) Or could be the thermostat? Why cannot the pressure be released automatically?
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been working on my passat for the last year oil cooler went bad and also my CCM fried. Anyways got the car running good or so i thought drove the car up the road today and my coolant sounds like it's boiling inside the reservoir.
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I am hearing a vibrating sound only between 2000 - 2500 rpm while accelerating from inside/under engine bay. No impact on ride quality and no engine harshness is felt. Only it sounds like some metal sheet is vibrating for a while. After crossing 2500 rpm it simply disappears.
Checked inside the engine compartment by revving the engine while stationery and I don't get that sound. What could it be? Some shield of the exhaust? cat?
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2000 Chrysler 300M with 142K miles. Was a very reliable car until recently.
Problem began with boiling coolant in the reservoir tank. Then began to lose coolant at a high rate. I tried stop leak products and replaced the coolant frequently for a couple months. Some of it kind of worked, but the problem always returned. The car drives fine for about 10 highway miles then begins to steam out from under the hood on the passenger side. It gets about half way up the temp gauge, but does not really overheat. I usually stop when it steams out, let it cool, replace the antifreeze, then do it all over again. I've also tried a bunch of other things too, e.g., radiator flush. None of it worked.
The mechanic wants to replace the radiator. Says the system does not have pressure so there's no real way to determine if there are leaks in the engine. But he does know that the radiator is no good. I'm okay to replace radiator, but don't want to do it just to find out ten minutes later that I have a blown head gasket, which I would opt not to fix. I have read the tell tale signs of a blown head gasket, such as coolant in the oil, but there is none. My exhaust is white, but it's 5 degrees outside and it doesn't look whiter. I have seen some coolant on the ground at times.
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I have an 03 Passat Wagon, 2.8L V6. My wife is getting ready for a big drive tomorrow, about 13 hours. Right now after reaching the operating temperature and then shutting off the coolant is boiling. The temp gauge never goes beyond 190 so it is not overheating but it is getting really warm in the engine compartment.
History: I noticed a couple of days ago that the expansion tank was badly discolored and had some corrosion inside. I know it was because I inadvertently mixed the green stuff with it about 2 months ago. I know it was stupid, but that was before I realized how stupid. Yesterday I drained the coolant and flushed it about 4 times. I couldn't flush it completely because I couldn't get at the drain next to the transmission fluid pan. I just drained it from the front outlet.
I refilled the system by disconnecting the expansion tank and holding it up until fluid came out of the hole on the hose going into the firewall. Then I was going to bleed it from the bleeder screw in the rear coolant pipe (as listed in Haynes manual) but could not find it. I even have the photo in the book to guide me and it is not there. Since I couldn't find it I skipped to the bleeder valve by the serpentine belt. I bleed that and hooked it all back up.
Now my fluid boils. I know it isn't the expansion tank cap because I took the one from my Jetta and put it in and it does the same thing. I put the cap from the Passat in the Jetta and it doesn't cause that coolant to boil. After driving today for a half hour the engine compartment felt superheated. Even the fenders were hot to the touch. It is almost 90 outside but it still felt unusually hot in the engine compartment. I would like for my wife to drive this on her road trip instead of the Jetta, but I can't let her do that with this problem.
I think I must not have bleed the system very well. The heater works and the temp gauge never goes above 190.
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OK, my '01 GTI VR6 has been giving me overheating problems - I've had to replace the crack pipe, and I've been having problems with the plastic fittings (coolant lines around throttle, heater core) all breaking. Turns out the electric fans were bad, I replaced them yesterday. I did check them, neither one was coming on with the AC on, and with 12V jumpered directly to them, still no go, so it wasn't the fan controller.
I was looking forward driving my car without overheating, but that doesn't seem to be in the cards. Looks like the fans weren't the only thing wrong. The sympton I see is that the coolant overflows the coolant overflow tank, but the temp gauge, while it comes up to temp (190 degrees) it doesn't go beyond that - but I'm having coolant boiling out of the overflow tank?!
I really don't want to say out loud - but maybe a bad head gasket? I've heard there's something that's like litmus paper you can use to see if exhaust gasses are blowing into your coolant - where can I get it?
What may be wrong? Almost anything would be better than a bad head gasket! While I've been having these problems, I've not seen the temp gauge ever go beyond the center 190 degrees, what's happened is that while driving the low coolant warning will come on, I pull over, and coolant is bubbling and overflowing the tank.
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Long story short, over torqued the top two stretch bolts and destroyed the threads. We helicoil'ed both holes and put the bolts back in. That was about 4 months ago.
Today both bolts snapped not while moving. We dolly'd the car home and bought a replacement bracket, however all three bolts along the bottom that go into the transmission housing broke off inside.
I'm a tad stuck at this point. I could drill and tap new holes over the existing, but i question whether that is a good idea. My other thought was to get 3 of the larger stretch bolts that go in the top, completely drill out the three that are broken and tap the big ones in. This thought would also require drilling the bracket to make the larger bolts fit.
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When my 2000 GTI VR6 sits for a week or two the coolant will run low. There are no leaks that I can find. No coolant in the oil. The crack pipe looks dry. Nothing from the thermostat hosing that I can see. The carpet by the heater core is dry. Nothing that I can see. The thing that is funny is I can drive the car with it 100 degrees outside in Georgia and have no problems with the coolant getting low, or any signs of a leak, smoke or smell. The head gasket and every gasket except the oil cooler and oil stand gasket were replaced about two years ago. The heater core was also replaced at the time. I gave the front pulled loose so I can pressure test the system and look more today.
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My 2000 jetta glx is leaking coolant fast enough to empty the reservoir from full in about 10 minutes but only does it while running. Why this is or what I should look at fixing?
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So over the weekend my 2000 jetta VR6 started leaking coolant and getting way to hot. So i parked it at work and eventually got it towed to a friends shop. I haven't looked at the car since then so bear with me on the descriptions I'm giving as they are just what he told me over the phone. I'm going to try and get to the shop in the morning to check it out some more. He says I have a leak in 2 hoses that look like they are just rotted out.
First hose he says "Comes from the back of the head and is about a half inch wide. it goes into a Y and then the top half goes into a smaller hose." The 2nd hose he says "on the top of the coolant bottle there is a line that goes across the back of the firewall then comes into a rubber hose and from that hose their is a T going into other places."
Obviously that's not a lot to go on. and when I'm looking at replacement hoses at shops online I'm not seeing ones that match these descriptions really. I've been looking for a diagram or some kind of illustration of these hoses so that i can send it to him and he can figure out which ones they are but I have not been able to find one.
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After finally getting some issues sorted this weekend (needed a transmission flush) I was driving around a bit to make sure everything was good. On the way back to my house, the car started overheating. I replaced the thermostat this winter (~4-5 months ago) because it was stuck open making things run a little cool.
I was thinking the water pump is probably shot but not 100% sure. the radiator fans both work and when I turn on the heater, it blows hot. Any good way to check if the water pump is dead? I have a little point and shoot infrared thermometer and one side of the coolant line was way hot and the other was fine (cold ~90 deg F).
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This morning, I wanted to drive to work, but all of my coolant was gone. In the last couple of weeks, I had some errors with my speedometer and had it replaced a week ago, which did not fix my problem (the P0722 sometimes still came up).
Could it be that my coolant leaked over the last weeks and somehow messed with my speedometer, or are those most likely independent errors?
My car is a 2000 Jetta VR6 and at this point I don't want to put too much into it any more. If you need more input, let me know.
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My mate has bought a mk4 golf and it is loosing coolant. There is no obvious signs of a water leak the car starts fine, goes up to temperature fine, only time the temperature rises is when the car has to work harder. (going up hill) then returns to normal.
Left the car today for a couple of hours and went to check the coolant level and the system was still under pressure when opening the expansion bottle top. There is signs of rusty water around the cars panels where the expansion tank is located. Previous owner said that it used 4 litres of water on a 330 mile round trip. previous owner said it could be the head gasket but there is no cream on oil filler cap.
There is no sign of water leaking from the heater matrix inside the car.
"2000" y reg mk4 golf 115bhp 1.9 gt tdi all standard
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I have a 2000 vw Gti vr6. It leaks coolant smokes and starts to over heat when idling. Does fine when driving down the road. It has a new radiator. When pressure tested I can see a little stream of coolant coming out. But there's no space in the engine bay and I can't see exactly where it's coming from. Like I said it only happens when it's Idling for an extended period of time. It does fine going down the road.
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Long story short, I got a 2001.5 1.8t M5 Passat with 63k miles 2 weeks ago.
This weekend I was driving around and pulled into the driveway and noticed the coolant was boiling in the coolant reservoir. It also looked like there was some oil in the reservoir. Take it to the shop, turns out that the plastic impeller on the water pump broke at 64k miles. This is wierd because the car never actually overheated. The mechanic doesn't think that the head gasket is blown or i have a cracked/warped head because the car still runs fine. He suggests I replace the water pump, timing belt, coolant reservoir, thermostat and obviously flush the coolant. I go ahead with the repair since its almost time for the TB anyway.
After bending over and taking it from the shop on a timing belt and water pump repair, I think I am all good. Today I open everything up after a few days of driving around just to check up on stuff. I open the coolant reservoir and there is telltale signs of oil in the coolant. Now i think this was an issue before the water pump went. Searching the archives I see that the oil cooler is a common failure. This could have also contributed to the failure of the water pump and maybe the thermostat, I don't know.
So instead of bending over for the mechanic for a second time in a week , I think I'm going to replace the oil cooler and flush the coolant system again and change the oil myself. Poked around looking at the oil cooler and it seems as if there is the slightest sign of an oil leak on the outside, which could mean there is a leak inside. I don't have compressed air so I'm not sure how I can test the oil cooler for leaks.
I am thinking i need:
-Oil cooler (some suggest S4, some suggest TDI one?)
-Oil cooler gasket
-Feed and return lines
-Hose clamps
-g12 coolant
-Oil filter
-Synthetic oil
Should I replace the upper and lower radiator hoses while I've got the coolant out? What else should I replace while the coolant is out. I see people suggest flushing the system several times. Should i use G12 everytime or can I just use water to flush until its clean and fill with G12?
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My son has a 94 Escort LX and this weekend he noticed that when he'd stop the car he could hear the coolant boiling. The car temp gauge never registered too hot, and it never lost coolant. We checked the oil and it is not milky.
About 2 years ago it got a new water pump. Last summer a new thermostat, and then earlier this year a new radiator.
Last weekend he was stuck in a huge traffic jam. (4.5 hours for a normally 45 min. drive). I'm wondering if that could have weakened the radiator cap. He's picking up a new one today, but wonder if there is something else we should check?
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I have a 1992 Toyota Celica I think I may have overheating problems every time i stop after driving a little while i can hear a boiling noise from where you put your coolant in and when i open it there is steam coming from the black hose that goes in it.
The funny thing is when i am driving the temperature gauge stays at 1/2 way and never passes it, also sometimes when i stop green and a bit clear liquid leaks on the ground on the side where the battery is.
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When the car has been running awhile the coolant reservior and radiator make a boiling sound. It really only does it when it's been at idle for a bit. Radiator is full. Fan doesn't seem to come on after it has been running awhile but does when you turn on air. At what temp should it come on? The temp gauge never goes above the middle point so it stays in normal range, even when the tank are radiator are gurgling.
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I have a '99 E350 that sat for a winter. When I started it up, it appeared to be overheating and boiling over. I didn't have time to mess with it, and it sat for another year. Today I tried to figure out the issue and determined that I have trains fluid in the coolant. Pulling the trans dipstick revealed a white milkiness on the dipstick, so I'm guessing the trans cooler/radiator failed and the two fluids have mixed.
My question is, is the transmission salvageable? The van has not been driven in this condition, so I'm hoping there is hope. Obviously, flushing both systems (multiple times) is in order, along with a new radiator. But is there any hope for the transmission? I'd hate to spend the money flushing it all multiple times if it is a lost cause.
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Today on a little road trip about 250 miles everything was going well then towards the end i was about to arrive when the temp gauge rose about a quarter inch from where it normally runs and i stopped at a gas station and all my coolant started rushing and boiling out of the top of my reservoir, I let the truck cool down and removed the cap and i lost all the coolant in the reservoir i bought two jugs and filled it back up and fired her up and the temp is back to normal and was not leaking from anywhere.
Hit the road again for the rest of the roughly 35 miles of the trip to my camp no smoking or lack of power then through a little sand and mud and she stayed cool. I was towing a small single axle utility trailer with a atv and was going 65-70 whole way. Truck has never had a problem with anything in the year and a half i have had it. Just hit 250k. What could this have been? Its holding all the coolant its been in there for a couple hours now without leaking. Thermostat maybe stuck for a second? Or a air bubble?
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My CEL is on for P0116 Engine Coolant temp circuit, range or performance problem. I replaced the CTS, thermostat, and did a complete coolant flush/replacement last November. Car worked well over the winter no issues. Last week when the CEL came on it gave me P0301 and P0440 as well. I did a reset and the lights stayed off for the week. Then P0116 came back. Is it possible that the CTS is bad again? I measured the resistance on the CTS and hot it is about 300 ohms and cold is 2.45k ohms.
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