2000 2.0 has full oem exhaust, when downshifting it pops, could this be something in the exhaust or fuel? Not sure as it pops about 2-3 times per downshift. No more no less.
View 3 Replies1.6 FSI .. Very long story short, the engine is running like crap, idle is jumping up and down. Almost no power, its stuttering and so on and so on. Well I talked to a mechanic and he found out the problem, a throttle vacuum. (kinda like choke) he explained it as.
The part was ordered, and arrived. Me and my dad tried changing it and we met some struggles. After looking at it closely and trying different things we kinda gave up.
Here is the part that is broken, it adjusts the amount of fuel when its cold vs. hot
We concluded we needed to take the whole intake to access it ?
I just acquired a 01 wolfsburg jetta 1.8t and first time vw owner.
I just got the car and found that all the pcv ventilation hoses were crumbling and broken down. I replaced everything under the intake up to the y at the valve cover. All was in stock at the dealer was the oil cooler elbow, tee and pcv valve. From there, i made my own hoses using 3/4 hose and couplers.
Before this, it ran fine but sometimes at idle the idle would jump up and down but not die. I also had a couple codes, can't remember what the number was. One was O2 bank 1 sensor 1 lean and i think the other was O2 related.
Now, after trying to fix the leaks. CE light went out but idle still does the same but my boost improved from like 5psi to like 9psi wot. That's not an issue but coming home tonight when i went to second, it felt like it was dragging or not wanting to accelerate or accelerate and like stall for a second. If you blip the throttle it back fires while in second when its doing this.
Only mod on the car i know of is it has a forge DV/blowoff i guess is the correct name. It can be used as a dv or both.
Ok, so my 1.8T hasn't really run right in quite a while, it dramatically goes into boost, then sometimes will just backfire and go into soft limp at around 5-6 psi while accelerating.
Specs:
Stock ECU
3" turbo back
TIP
FMIC
Short ram air with K&N
2.0 coils with proper NGK plugs (I cant remember exact name right now)
All evap/SAI and emissions deleted
Coolant ball deleted
Replaced:
- Crankshaft position sensor
- Camshaft position sensor
- MAF (autozone brand )
- Coilpack wire harness
- Swapped between 2 different N75's
- Piston and spring in Forge Splitter
Below is what I pulled with the vagcom cable I just got in the mail today, along with the DTC names I found from Bentley's page. I know the 411 and 441 are from the SAI/Evap delete but other than that what I should replace next?
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Monday, 07 July 2014, 17:30:49.
Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,19,22,29,35,36,37,39,46,47,55 ,56,57,75,76
[Code] ....
So, I was driving down the road one day at like 50mph or so and had the loudest backfire I've ever heard. As I was putting my car on the dolly to tow home I heard a bunch of rattling and thought maybe it was a rod bearing or something. I pulled the oil pan and found chunks of my upper chain guide (rod bearings were fine).
I replaced the chain guide and checked the timing hoping it would fix the problem, but it didn't. The rattling was gone but I was only running on 3 cylinders. Did a compression check and had 0 compression in Cyl5 and about 60-70 in Cyl2. I don't remember exactly what the compression was for the other cylinders since it was a while ago.
Started thinking it was bent valves, so I just recently pulled the head off to check them. They all looked like they were seating properly and none looked bent from what I could tell. I'm about to try to put some compressed air through it to see if the valves are leaking anywhere. the plugs, wires, and coilpack are all functioning properly.
2001 GL 1.5 Litre. Car occasionally hesitates a little with AC off, but runs pretty well. But with the air conditioner on?
Stalls about 50% of time when backing with A/C on. From stoplights, sputters all the way through intersections with A/C on, sometimes backfires. On a few occasions, the Check Engine light will blink on and off while it's doing this. After it gains a little speed/rpm, though, it's all good again, light goes back off.
Had full tune-up just before we bought it 4,000 miles ago. Air filter clean. Not sensors, because the CEL goes back off by itself. What the heck? How could the A/C cause a backfire?
Started my truck this morning. 2000 F350, V10, 153000 on the clock. Immediately sounded like a shotgun went off under the hood, now it sounds like it's running a cutoff exhaust. Had a tiny manifold tick prior to this, but can it backfire hard enough to crack/destroy the manifold?
View 5 RepliesMy R just started doing this under heavy acceleration for the past few days, I used to get a back fire pop during some hard shifts between gears but now it's doing under WOT.
Basically let say. I am cruising in 4th gear, if I drop down to 3rd and mash the pedal through the gear the car hesitates and pops a few times. It doesn't do it all the time but it's coming to a point where I'm concerned. Is this normal or should I have it checked out.
Mods are in sig, I'm still on the original spark plugs at 42k miles, that is going to be my first plan of attack. What it may be?
I have been having this odd issue where my car will back fire after a cold start. It only happens when getting out of first gear and going into second while driving (it happens as soon as I press the clutch pedal all the way in, and stops as soon as the clutch pedal is back out). It doesn't happen all the time, just every now and then. My only explanation of this would be that I live a mile above sea level (I looked at the FAQs and know that the car will act like its about to die on a cold start, yet it doesn't). So with my only "explanation" of this phenomenon being that I live a mile above sea level and the engine running rich for a few minutes after start up. My car is stock with the exception of the flapper mod.
Pics for Clicks ......
I have a 2001 Accent with a 1.6. This car is mostly driven by my daughter so I'm translating the symptoms as she has described them to me. The issue appears to be this - when driving at highway speeds the car will sometimes downshift from OD to 3rd gear and stay there. When the problem first started, she would pull off the highway, turn off the car and then restart it - this would appear to "fix" things temporarily, however, as time went on, it would work up to (and including) 3rd gear and not go into OD after a restart.
I've reviewed the various threads on this site describing the 4th gear problem prevalent in the Accent, but in each case that was posted, there was a check-engine-light or at least some diagnostic codes stored that one could refer to - I've scanned this car every time she's been home and there are no DTC's. Should I assume that this is the standard "4th gear" issue and take the pan off for investigation or could this be some other issue such as the speed sensor causing the transmission to limit itself to a max of 3rd gear?
I have a mkv r32 turbo. It had C2 910cc software, car ran great. I had to change to UM 870cc software and injectors in order to get UM dsg stage 3 tune. I had it out for test ride, ran nicely for 2 miles. Then i started to increase throttle, a loud back fire, so i pulled over. It stalled, i restarted it, ran for about 5 secs at 14.5 afr, then sputtered to 10s afr, the stalled out completely.
Had it towed home, all 6 plugs were black. VCSD mobile log states multiple misfire and misfire #6. I put new plugs and switched coil packs, same issue.
I recently bought my new car through a family friend.2000 Hyundai accent auto owned by a 90yr old grandpa since new with only 45k on the clock. im used to driving a manual so I don't know if its just me not used to it but when I slow for a corner to say 15-20km/hr and accelerate out the transmission remains in 3rd gear unless I give it a really good prod then it changes to 2nd or 1st. the acceleration when It does this and stays in 3rd is ok but I just wonder if its normal or is it just burning out the torque converter. also im only getting about 380-400kms out of a tank when driving the same route my old 96 pulsar used to get 550kms from the same fuel. is this normal I would have thought this new car to be using if anything a little less.
View 1 RepliesOkay I have a 2000 Jetta GLS VR6. I had the engine replaced after i found out the block was cracked when replacing the heater core. ever since it was replaced the car runs great but it keeps throwing these 4 codes.
p1424 secondary air injection system bank 1 leak detected -intermittent
p0411 secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected
p1603 internal control module failed self test -intermittent
p0134 02 sensor bank 1 sensor no1 no activity -intermittent
The thing that is bugging me is that the sai pump is still running. On cold start it literally sounds like a Dyson vacuum. What i should try.
I'm looking at buying a 00 jetta vr6,the couple who owns it claims it never came on before they parked it, but after not running for around 3 months it started again. Idles fine, starts on the first crank, no strange noises coming from it, bogs down around 2200 rpm?
View 3 Replies2000 golf glx VR[IMG][/IMG]
Epc light is on going down the list of things it can be. Should this be closed all the way while car is off. And if it is then is it closed all the way in the picture?
I have a 2000 jetta 2.0 124k automatic I want to know how hard would it be going from gas to diesel? And also what would I need to do to get started.
View 11 RepliesI had been driving around for a few days and the car had been feeling a bit sluggish on initial acceleration and there was also a very slight backfire.
Just seemed to have lost some crispness. No fault codes thrown with VAGCOM.
Found one of the Camshaft Hall Sensors loose. I have had this before with the exhaust cam sensor but this time it was the inlet one. The bolt just comes a bit loose and the sensor can swivel around very slightly if you move it with your hand.
It seems to be enough to upset the the performance but not enough to throw any codes - after all it is still working perfectly sending a signal as far as VAGCOM is concerned.
Just need to nip it up again with an M5 Allen key and you are golden. One with a ball end makes it easier to get to. Just regained about 20 HP
Pic for information ....
Recently bought a 1999.5 vr6 jetta and noticed that it will randomly grind going from 1st to 2nd gear (its a manual). It seems really erratic, it will do it at any rpms and at completely random times.
It only does it when shifting up, not downshifting. I can also go 50 times or more shifting into 2nd without it happening or it can happen 5 times in a row. Not sure what do here...
I just picked up a 2000 GTI VR6 and it's got a few issues but what's bugging me the most is the hatch won't open, I've tried everything I can think of but no luck. what should I do next?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Jetta that doesn't blow cold AC. Here are the details:
- When the AC is turned on, air does blow through the vents. Each setting (1-4) does blow harder than the previous.
- Both front fans spin and are working
- The AC compressor clutch never engages
- All fuses (two inside the car and the one above the battery) have been replaced and test good.
- When the AC is on full blast, the voltage coming from the AC compressor wire shows ~9.3V for about 5 seconds, then jumps up to about ~11V for less than a second, this repeats over and over and the clutch never engages.
What the next logical troubleshooting step would be? I've read about this possibly being the fan control module (maybe) and also read about testing the AC compressor using an external 12V power supply, but am not sure where to go from here.
I have a 2000 Jetta TDI, with an aftermarket radio, which was professionally installed about 3 years ago. never given me problems till recent.
After driving i turn off car and all is normal, except frequently i can come back within an hour or two and find that the radio illumination is on, and that i can no longer turn the radio on (with or without key turned on). i also cannot turn off the radio. i say turn off because while it is in this odd mode i can plug in my iphone and it will charge and play music as if through headphones, it is also powering up my amp while in this mode. If i pull fuse 42 it resets and all is good.
I have not noticed any problems while driving or when radio is ON normal
I have swapped out the radio with another identical radio and it is still doing the exact same thing.