Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2.0 Engine Is Sputtering And Rough Running On Morning Start - No VCDS Fault Codes
Nov 14, 2015
I have a 2008 MK4 2.0 with only 53,000kms. At 40,000Kms I put new OEM spark plugs.
Just recently, every morning when I start the engine is sputtering and rough running. The engines want to die but I give a little gas, and run rough like it is only firing on two or three cylinders.
When it gets to the normal operating coolant temperature it runs without any problem and I can use the AC. Its only give me this problem on the first start of the day.
Does not have any MIL light on the instrument panel. I scan it with VCDS-Lite and do not found any fault codes. The only thing that's come to my mind is to change the Green Coolant Sensor.
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My V8 is "sputtering" between 1000 - 2000 RPMs. Not only can you feel it, but you can see the tachometer bounce up and down as well. No problems accelerating or putting the engine under load - it's only between that RPM range where there seems to be hesitation. The car is not giving any fault codes, and I just recently had all plugs and coils changed. (The car ran great for 2000 miles following the plug and coil change.) It started on a road trip, and I took it to the local dealer. They thought it was bad gas. (I've since run several tank fulls through it...)
My suspicion is a mass air flow meter beginning to go, but until it triggers a fault, I can't say for sure. The dealer wants to check the MAFs values and to do a fuel tank pressure test to see if it's the fuel pump. I do have the Real Driver warranty, but they will not cover investigative costs. I'm not too excited about throwing money to test a bunch of different things.
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I was driving along the highway cruising at around 100 km/h when out of nowhere the car started driving a little rough so I look down and the ASR (traction control) light was on. I got off the highway, shut it down and fired it back up. The ASR light was off and car running like normal. When I got home I scanned it and these codes came up:
The catalyst code if from my catless turbo-back exhaust which I plan to fix next month with a tune. Anyway I cleared all codes and continued on my way without any other hiccups. So is my MAF sensor dying/dirty? ECU? N75 valve? Boost leak? I'm making a boost leak tester today just to 100% eliminate that variable, though I'm fairly certain I'm good there.
The car is mostly stock except for a few bolt-ons, all of which I've had installed for thousands of kilometers now. Here is what isn't stock, not including suspension, wheels, etc:
Forge 008 diverter valve
034 Motorsports PVC silicone hose kit
Samco boost hose kit
Forge silicone turbo inlet pipe
Eurojet SMIC
custom built 2.5 stainless, catless turbo back
AEM Dryflo short ram intake
GLI MFA cluster
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So my daughter's 2000 Golf Mk4 with 160,000 miles on it was running rough and had 3 codes stored - cylinders 2 & 3 misfire and a 411 secondary air injection problem.
Having had the misfire code before I swapped injectors around and the error code moved cylinders with the injectors so I attempted cleaning them and also cleaned the throttle body and intake manifold. At this point car still running rough but also started smoking badly.
Replaced the following items:
- Spark plugs
- Spark plug wires
- PCV valve
- PCV hose
- Fuel injectors w/ remanufactured
Hose reconnected between secondary air injection pump and air intake - previous owner had duct-taped it in when he couldn't get it to seal I guess. I've never heard it run.
Car running better, idles more smoothly, doesn't stumble or stall like it did before, no error codes coming up BUT car smokes a lot and the fumes make me feel sick just driving it a mile.
The car had never smoked like this before, hasn't had a whole lot of love the last year or two but no real problems either so why the sudden smoke?
At first I assumed it was cleaner being burned off but that should have been gone in under a minute and this is on-going. It's bad enough to not only be embarrassing but apparently dangerous as the fumes are bad.
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I just bought a 2002 Jetta 2.0L with automatic trans and about 98000 miles on the odometer.It drove fine on a short test drive. It drove fine on a 45 min drive home after which I parked it for a short while (about an 60-90 mins.) Then I tried to restart it . It cranked fine but would not start. After 3 or 4 attempts I let it rest for a min and then it started. And the CEL came on.
This was a few days ago. Today I finally got a chance to scan it with these results:
VCDS Version: Release 15.7.3 Running on Windows 7 x86
[URL] .....
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AVH.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 FR
Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4/2V G 4070
Software Coding: 00003
[Code] ....
I'm new to MK4's and I'm at a bit of a loss as to where to start. It looks to me like there's a problem with both the fuel pump relay and the crank sensor. But what to make of all the short to ground codes. Could they be caused by a bad fuel pump relay?
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I'm not sure if this qualifies for a "cold start" but my 1.8T sounds imperfect when I start it for the first time of the day. It'll rev around 1200 RPM, instead of the normal 800RPM idle if I start it after it had recently been turned off for a short period.
It sounds almost like my old car that had an exhaust leak, but not as obnoxious. When it settles back down to 800RPM it really purrs and sounds great. Is this normal?
2003 Wolfsburg Jetta 1.8T, not sure if I wrote that in my profile yet. 41k miles and recently serviced for 40k milage. Has sounded this way before and after the service.
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Driving home car started sputtering like crazy. vag com'd it and this is what i got from the scan!
Friday,06,April,2012,16:16:02:36785
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.2 (x64)
Data version: 20120126
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chassis Type: 3C0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 15 16 17 19 1C 25 42 44 46 52 53 56 62 72
[Code] ....
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I bought my 2001 Jetty w/2.0 only yesterday. While I was looking under the hood this morning, I noticed there was no fans running while engine was going so I took a trip to local auto parts store. O'Reilly's hooked up my Jetty and told me there was four error codes but they weren't sure what they meant. Here are the codes: P0302, P0301, P1128,and P1580. I have no clue of what these errors mean. I am not familiar with Volkswagen at all and there are no volkswagen dealerships close.
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I just replaced my injectors in my 12v vr6 and now having some problems. Mainly having issues with start up. Having to feather the gas to get it to start and still runs rough for a min or two.
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I recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
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I'm looking for tricks that I could do changing the codes in my golf like turning traction control off and ESP off.
2015 Golf 1.8 TSI
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I am getting 20 intermittent ground fault codes and the kid I bought the car from had an alternator put in. I see a terminal closest to the front of the car on the alternator that has no thick wire attached to it and when I was at the junkyard they had wires connected to them. I cleaned all other grounds on the car that I can access so I think that could be the issue but I don't know where the wire should lead to and how the alternator should be grounded!
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Regarding my problem (outline below):
>> Went for a refueling stop, and thereafter proceeded onto the highway
>> Approx. 500m into the drive onto the highway the car started jerking and running rough with an initial puff of smoke (none thereafter)
>> Immediately after this initial jerking/shuddering there was a significant increase in fuel consumption i.e. from a familiar 8.2L/100km to 18L/100km in the cruise
>> We continued driving not knowing what it was (I suspected a spark plug may have stopped working)
>> Pulled up at the gas station to observe what went wrong inside the engine bay - no signs of any leaks, fuel sprays, etc. but only that the engine was shaking
>> I checked the rear of the car while the car was idling and observed a pulsating sound...some light smoke and a fuel-rich egg-like smell
>> Asked around and I was led to think the catalytic converter was ruined, so the next day I had the catalytic converter cut out
>> After removing the catalytic converter the problem persisted...although the engine operated with slightly less flow resistance
Attempt at diagnosing the problem
>> My wife called in a technician from BMW at Canal Walk to come have a look and what errors were flagged
>> The tech ran the diagnostic and no fault codes were indicated, except a few short circuit faults due to my incorrectly placing -ve on +ve when I tried to charge my cars battery with jumper cables
>> He proceeded to ask if we changed the spark plugs, I said yes. He then looked at the oil on the intake manifold and said there could be a torn valve on the intake manifold and that air that is not measured by the air mass flow sensor is entering the engine, which is causing the car to rev hunt (this problem of rev hunting has been with us for a while). The engine also shuts down uncommanded at stops and sometimes between shifting gears with the subsequent loss of power steering (very dangerous!!)
>> We also had the O2 sensor replaced a month before this occurence
The images attached (#1- #3) are marked up to indicate the component I am referring to.
[IMG] FilesImage_1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG] FilesImage_2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG] FilesImage_3.jpg[/IMG]
Went to Cape City VW in Cape Town and the part number for that orange thing/diaphragm is 06A 198 205A 'Repair kit for valve'. Is this significant? The car sounds as strange at idle...as if has noisy valves. I can upload (if there is an option) a sound clip of how the car sounds if this assists.
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Keep getting o2 fault codes. Replaced sensors came back. tried another set of sensors came back. Checked wiring for breaks no luck. Replaced ecu still no luck. So going through wiring again and checking for continuity. Looking for a list of what pins to check for voltages, and what each should be from ecu to sensor connectors. Looking for what wire is signal and how to and what voltages to check for...
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The vehicle is a 2004 Jetta MK4 1.8t.
Last thing I had replaced about 2 months ago was the Solenoid valve, the MAF and Solenoid hose. Car ran fine for about a month, and bam...engine light came back on, along with the ASR light. At first it was saying "cat converter" so I researched that, and what a surprise, it spoke about being a $1k piece to replace. NOTHING HAS BEEN CHEAP ON THIS CAR, and I'm losing my mind.
The latest adventure happened today coming back from the gym. Car started jerking (which has been normal since every now and then the ASR light will come on, which I'm told is the traction control light. Causing the car to jerk. Simple fix is pulling over, shutting the car off, and turning it back on. That always clears it, and then I'm back on the road.) but instantly it lost power. It wont shift, but the traction control light didn't come on. I plugged my OBD2 tool up, and came back with these fault codes:
P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0753: Shift Solenoid "A" Electrical
P2637: Torque Management Feedback Signal A
I'm going to go to these guys tomorrow, but I would just like to get an educated guess on what might be going on, so I don't look like a lost dog while they're figuring out what to do next. These guys seem knowledgeable, but they're missing something since I've been in and out of their shop several times and still getting my traction control light on at random times, and now all 3 of these codes.
Does that Solenoid code have anything to do with the Solenoid valve they put in? I was told that cleaning the throttle body and the cat converter might work. Would those be cheaper options to consider, and see if that works?
I also read that unplugging the alternator and plugging it back in, then cleaning the male and female with electrical cleaner might work. I was told about a month ago that my battery barely passed. Could this be causing any of my issues? I also did a log while I was driving, but all that's showing up is a google map document.
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Recently got my VCDS USB cable that I can use on the newer 1.8T Jettas and I haven't found a measuring block for boost or MAP data. My Scan Gauges don't give a MAP data field either for the 1.8T engine, while it does for the TDIs.
Where do I find this data? Surely the ECU monitors boost?
Couldn't find anything while hooked up to the Buddys Passat 1.8 that we did a TB and thermostat on yesterday.
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So I am having this weird electrical issue when connecting VCDS. Every time VCDS begins to scan, the door seems to receive an unlock command and then the car will stall and shut off. I have tried doing different things but no luck. Possibly a bad ground somewhere? Also, when the car stalls out, VCDS then picks up a few codes. I can clear the codes just fine but every time this happens, the codes return. Here are the VCDS codes:
Address 01: Engine
Labels: 06A-906-018-AEG.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 018 J
Component and/or Version: MOTRONIC M5.9.2 AT V06
Software Coding: 00001
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
VCID: 2959A211D3043F762A-4AE4
8 Faults Found:
17633 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30)
P1225 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17634 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2 (N31)
P1226 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17635 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 3 (N32)
P1227 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17636 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4 (N33)
P1228 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17859 - Secondary Air Injection System
P1451 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17829 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112)
P1421 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17833 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80)
P1425 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17880 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump
P1472 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
It seems that only the engine controller is being affected. Assuming that the car doors run under the same controller?
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All seems to be going well, drove the car for first 200 meters yesterday! Replacing the faulty parts is always easiest, just need to know if there are any shortcuts for fixing this. What's the engine oil temperature sensor? The one bolted in oil pan?
The intake air temperature is showing -40 degrees celsius.
MAF is plugged correctly.
VAG-COM gives me these following codes:
3 Faults Found:
000406 - Engine Oil Temp. Sensor (G8)
P0196 - 004 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
000275 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42)
P0113 - 002 - Signal too High - Intermittent
000258 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 002 - Signal too Low
Readiness: 0000 0000
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So the car is a 1999 golf gti with a 2.0 AEG with a 5 speed manual. My brothers car. He has been telling me its been hard starting in the mornings for a couple months, sometimes it dies, sometimes it idles at 500 or lower, he has to rev it up to 1500 to get it to warm up then in kinda stays normal till he cold starts the car again, then does it all over. So he was driving down to my house to leave it with me to look at and on the way over he heres a big bang. has the car towed over here.
Cyl #3 has backed itself out and clearly a serious misfire, threads look fine so I put all new plugs in oem ngk three prong, runs ok still too low 400/600 stalling a couple times. this morning i installed new wires (Bosch)and a coil (aftermarket) and it barely wants to run now, stalled instantly. So I put the old coil back in and it stays running but watching the motor, its clearly misfiring. No codes as of yet and i have no access to vagcom. I've checked the firing order and wire placement on coil like 8 times to make sure it is correct.
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First, how can I get the fault codes from ABS system? I cannot find the connector from where to activate it. Looking for a picture where is it located, and how does it look letterike?
Second problem is with starting, occurs sometimes. I just crank the engine, but it doesn't start, when I play with gas pedal, then it will start with 2-3 cylinders, runs really rough for half a minute like this (I hold the gas pedal down, otherwise would die), then gradually gets better until normalizes. Some other time, starts and runs fine. It could happen both with cold or warm engine.
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I have a 04.5 gli 1.8t. When I start the car in the am and give it some gas to go it sputters for a couple seconds and then goes just fine and I have no more issues with it. Where to start looking? No trouble codes thrown either...
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