Wondering how I would take the A/C pulley off to change the bearing or fix the chirp squeal it is making.
I have spun this pulley by hand and it is the culprit making the noise.
It has an inner pulley and an outer pulley(belt pulley). Both spin freely and are not bound up. Just want the terrible noise to go away.
I replaced all the bearings and put in a rebuilt transmission and still have bearing like noise , seems like the front, directly increasing with speed . Same in neutral, no change with turning or breaking. Getting worse over the past few months.
View 1 RepliesNeed to replace the ac compressor bearing/pulley on my 2001 f350 7.3. My question is do I need a special tool like a pulley puller or is there another way to remove pulley? I already have the clutch assembly removed as well.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Camry 5spd with 92K miles on it. Camry is completely stock and original with meticulous services to engine oil and drained the transmission fluid at 68K miles. I am hearing an engine hum every now and then (although I notice it more often now that I am searching for it) while I am idling. I don't believe it to be engine vibration, rather it is a hum, seems like a belt pulley bearing is going out, or even, and i hope its not, like my throw out bearing in the clutch is going bad.
Only reason I say that is because it makes the hum for a few seconds then goes away, then comes back for a bit. It makes the hum when i have the clutch engaged and when i have the clutch disengaged and a in neutral. I have opened the hood to try and search from where it is coming from but it is just too darn hard to figure out.
I am hoping it is nothing related to my transmission. I may pull the fill plug on it this weekend and try to stick my finger inside to see if I am low on fluids and it is making a hum (but I highly doubt it because when I filled it up after drain i filled it too the top). I haven't experienced any burning of oil and use 5W-20 (Castrol GTX since day 1). I may switch fluids on my next change and use maybe a different brand and viscosity (maybe use standard Quaker state at 5W-30).
Again it isn't an engine vibration, rather just a hum or almost like a stinking wobble and then goes away for a few seconds. I say wobble kind of like you would hear a drive shaft on a truck that wasn't balance properly and was spinning without being centred with counter weights.
so lately I've been noticing a slight rattling/knocking noise coming from my car while it is in neutral and the clutch is not pushed it. When I push the clutch in, the noise goes away. I've read that this could be a sign of a bad throw out bearing? Is this right? If it is the throw out bearing, how long can I expect until it completely craps out on me? It seems to only do it on cold starts and sometimes on the uneven ground. I figured I should start saving some money to have this done because I'm not comfortable doing it myself.
Some other questions I had is my car is a 24v VR6 and it has 144k original miles. The timing chains and guides have not been replaced (to my knowledge at least). I know that replacing the throwout bearing requires removal of the transmission and so does doing the lower timing chain. If I get my throw out bearing replaced, should I have them do the chains also since they are already in there? I have no noise coming from my chains at all so there are no signs that they are going bad. Also, should I have my clutch replaced while they are in there? Again, no signs of a bad clutch either.
The idler pulley bearing of my 3.3l Sonata NF has become quite noisy, as though it is running dry. Does this necessitate a complete pulley replacement or can it be disassembled and the bearing repacked (or if necessary replaced). I am becoming concerned that the bearing may fail altogether soon.
View 11 RepliesMy 99 5.4 V8 2wd truck is having AC problems. Everything started this time last year when my ac pulley bearing went out, I replaced it (pain in the neck) and everything worked fine until a few weeks ago. I was lubricating under the truck and i noticed the Clutch Hub and bolt had fell off. I went to a junkyard and took a new hub and bolt and 3 spacers and installed it in my truck. I tightened the bolt as hard as I could get it. The next few weeks the air was colder but i noticed the hub always spun with the pulley. It didn't matter if the ac was on or off the hub spun with the pulley 100% of the time.
I tried loosening it last weekend and it just spun freely never engaging it just rattled there. I got frustrated so i just tick the hub off. Now the pulley on the end of the compressor is just spinning with not hub bolted on it. I don't know what to do and i don't want to pay ford 1grand to put a new clutch and compressor in. The high pressure line also seems to be very greasy almost like there is an ac coolant leak there. I don't know if its bad to have the hub engaged 100% of the time or if its better to just not have one on there.
Also whenever I drive around town from 10-35 miles an hour my truck squeaks as it goes over bumps, it sounds like a dogs chew tow it is driving me crazy and i cant replicate it by moving my truck around when its in park and I don't know where its coming from. My truck has 141K on it I'm in college so I have to fix everything myself pretty much.
I have an '08 Camry LE 4cyl with 80,000 miles.
I was hearing a clicking noise when I turned left. Which I thought was the CV joint, but turned out to be worn struts. Then I began hearing a roaring sound from the front end. I replaced the struts & that fixed the clicking sound but not the roaring. So I thought maybe it just needed an alignment. I took it to dealer After fixing that one they call & say right one was so loud they couldn't hear that left one was roaring too. So they say I need to replace that hub & bearing also.
Are these issues happening very prematurely? What could have caused these problems?
Immediately after I had four new tires installed on a 2000 Blazer 4wd, the front wheel bearings started making noise. At the time I thought the noise was from the new tires. A few thousand miles later my mechanic told me I needed two reman hub assemblies (sealed bearings) for ~$350 apiece plus labor.
Is there anything that the tire shop (independent not chain) could have done (accidentally or otherwise) to damage the bearings during the tire installation? I have to get 4 tires for my 93 Chevrolet Caprice and don't wish to repeat the experience.
Whoops, forgot to mention this happened at 56k miles when the truck was five years old. Is it possible that the bearings were borderline and the process of mounting the wheels put them over the edge? For instance, someone being a little over enthusiastic with an impact wrench.
I am not sure which it is but I cannot turn the pulley by hand. How do you tell if the pulley is bad or the whole compressor? I went out to start the truck and it wouldn't start. It died so I restarted it and then I seen the smoke from the front of the truck. I opened the hood and the flipping belt was just hanging there. Is there a way to just bypass the unit for now? I wont be needing the AC till summer and that is several months away.
View 3 RepliesI need to replace the bearing on my Idler pulleys, both smooth and grooved. I also want to replace the bearing on the tensioner pulley. What are the part numbers and the best place to order them from?
View 10 RepliesI am completely lost now, spent alot of time trying to get the pulley off to replace the bearing, finally got that done, turned on the car, and it dies almost instantly unless i have my foot on the gas.... it runs really rough until i rev it up to at least 2K.
View 8 Repliesi replaced my a/c compressor on my 2006 f-250 2 yrs ago but had not refilled with r134..only the pag oil. Now i decide to refill seeing my wife uses the truck and compressor would not engage, i was able to bypass it by removing relay and jumping it with a paperclip. Compressor started up but seems to have seized on pully. the pulley seems fine and still turning freely. I can no longer turn it manually when truck is stopped and i could before i jumped it. could the clutch only be replaced or does the bearing and pulley have to be replaced
View 10 RepliesI found out that the bearing in the compressor clutch is the one making my car sound like crap... but I have been looking for it and everywhere I call they only sell the whole compressor that is expensive. I was thinking on get the clutch out and lube the bearing up or something but I don't know if I have to discharge the freon for doing it ... How to remove the AC clutch ?? Its an mk4 btw....
View 4 Replies2005 Jetta. My passenger side door emits the most high pitched, eye-gougingly disturbing noise when opening. I don't have any wd40 handy, would it be okay to just spread dome Mag1 wheel bearing grease over the hinge? Might be a stupid question, but that won't damage anything right?
View 3 RepliesNot sure where to even start this but ill try to keep in concise. 03 gli 24v 6 speed. 125500 miles. At about 123500, i start noticing this slightly growly bearing sound at idle, without the clutch pedal pressed. When you press the clutch pedal, it goes away. Waited a bit, and at 125k, i replaced the clutch, flywheel, and throwout bearing, thinking it was a bad throwout bearing. It wasnt that.
Next, after more research, it seemed the 02m 6 speeds have had some issue with input shaft bearings wearing out making similar noises. So, pull the trans back out, and send it to APTuning in PA. Have new input shaft bearings, upper and lower pinion shaft bearings, and diff bearings put in. Even though they said they saw no major wear to be worried about in any of them. And here we are, left with the same noise.
One of the guys at APTuning said they had a case with one car where the thrust bearings wore so bad it made for a similar condition. Where the car would make unpleasant noise without the pedal pressed, and would go away when a load was put on it with the pedal. SO, i guess what im asking is, is there validity to that? What are the chances my otherwise seemingly fine 24v has this issue and end play is so bad that is causing this noise?
The noise gets NOTICEABLY louder when the car is hot. Its almost silent on cold starts. But after 15 miles or so it can be heard almost voice level with the windows down when you're stopped and idling; it really hurts to drive it being a caring owner hearing it. The motor is still in the car with all accessories so i can't check the end play scientifically. But to be fair, if this is plausible, and is the issue, i dont think it'd take precision to tell.
I'm so deep into this, and thought I've ruled out everything yet the noise persists. Really at a loss..
Listen around :30 where I start to cycle the clutch pedal. When I press it, you hear the main shaft "spin down" and the noise go away. When I release the pedal again, you here the clunk and the noise again. Its also been sitting for 3 hours. Good bit louder when hot [URL] .....
I have an 02 Jetta with the 2.0 that I have been trying to resurrect. We've owned it from new and it's been a great commuting car but it was in desperate need for some TLC. The car has been very reliable for 250k-km and I want to make it last at least another 3 years. So, rather than sell the car for nothing - I've decided to invest some time in swapping parts in from a scrapped GLI w/24v VR6 (with ~130k km) that I picked up for $500. I figure that I'll never feel the pain of depreciation by just never selling the car!
I've already used the GLI to do some cosmetic upgrades (goodbye foggy head lights), replaced a rusted fender and a rock battered hood, a broken side view mirror - as well as do a full leather interior swap. The engine is destined for my Eurovan -- which has left me wondering what other parts I could use off the car before sending it to the wrecker.
So basically -- my 2.0 needs a wheel bearing and the stock suspension has been creaking and noisy for a long time. I see that the brakes and wheel bearing housings are different between 2.0 and VR6 -- but I'm thinking of swapping it all over at once and want to know if this is plausible. The brakes are definitely bigger (FN3 style) with nice factory painted calipers and just in better condition overall -- so I know I need the wheel bearing housing. So- is it possible to swap the entire strut out with the wheel bearing housing and all still attached? Seems this might be less work and faster than actually swapping out the just the wheel bearings.
Will the axles from the 2.0 still work?
I have a noise coming from the front of the engine. The noise stops once the the thermostat opens and the water pump starts circulating coolant.
View 1 Replies2002 Camry 4 cyl. Can the idler pulley alone be replaced on the serpentine belt tensioner? I noticed a very slight side to side play when I had the belt off. No noise from it. When I looked at rock auto, they sell the whole bracket with the pulley.
View 2 RepliesSo after doing wheel bearings in the car. both front and back. I'm still getting the "wheel-bearing hum" sound if you will. Don't know how this can be possible with all brand new wheel bearings and hub in the front passenger side. other hubs were fine. I do need tires which will be ordered soon/ alignment im sure.
View 5 RepliesI think it is cv joint not sure. [URL] .....
View 2 Replies