Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 1999 - When Pulled Out Of Driveway Car Started Running Rough
May 23, 2015
I have a Jetta Mk IV, yesterday I went to go drive it and just as I pulled out of the driveway it started running rough, so I pulled back in the driveway and the coolant temperature sensor light came on, then the check engine light. and then it died. Then today I tried starting it, and it will only start and run if I have the gas pedal all the way to the floor, and it runs really rough. Then it will die. I thought maybe the coolant temp sensor since the light came on. I replaced that, and it still does it. I'm leaning towards a head gasket.
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I have a 1993 Dodge Dakota with a 5.2l MPFI and auto trans that has me and many other mechanics stumped. Recently it stalled on me when I pulled it into the driveway, and ever since it has had this problem.
When I start it up in the morning and it's cold, the problem isn't as bad, but as it warms up it gets worse. It sounds like it's running rough, but its firing on all cylinders. I've verifies this by pulling the plug wires and also the fuel injector wires, and each one will bog the engine down a bit. Also, when I'm cruising or parked, if I hold the throttle at 1000 rpm or less, it loads up and will stall when I let off the throttle. I have to bump the throttle to about 1500 rpm or so when pulling up to a light so that it won't stall on me. When I hold the throttle and it loads up, I can read the o2 sensor with a scanner and it shows 0.8 or 0.9v, so I know it's running rich. If I let off, the sensor reads normal. It's not super rich, but enough that it causes this problem.
Things I've tried so far:
- Replaced plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
- New coil (old one had cracks in the case)
- Checked distributor for play in the shaft, timing chain for looseness, and cam sensor for damage
- Has a new PCM, swapped back to old one and the problem still exists
- Checked fuel pressure with and without regulator, is within specs cold or warmed up, no odd drops in pressure
- Checked all sensors with scanner to verify they read within specs
- Replaced all sensors with known good used AND new and none made any difference (o2 sensor, MAP sensor, TPS, air intake temperature, idle air control, coolant temp sensor)Plugs are brown/tan colored, none are blatantly rich
- Replaced the battery, alternator, and checked all grounds
- Checked the EGR system for correct operation
- Checked for vacuum leaks and broken wires, found none
The truck also has no catalytic converter and only has 1 pre-cat o2 sensor. I also am not getting any codes.
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Pulled into my driveway one night and a get a AFS failure.
Lights work, everything functions correctly, except my headlights don't level. I've seen some threads refer to it as the "dance".
I have the light out warning on the dash and every time i start my car it says "AFS FAILURE" or something across those lines.
I replaced my headlight level sensor and made sure the level sensor is pointing the correct way (toward the driver side) and that didn't fix it.
My car is lowered, but this issue didn't happen until recently. I do also have Euro Headlights, these were installed months ago. Way before this issue came up aswell.
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This only happens once or twice a week. After driving the car for 20+ minutes and sitting in the driveway, it will start running hot. I'd say around 230 degrees and it will stay there until I start driving the car again. I made sure the fans work and I also checked the coolant level and both are fine. What could be causing this issue?
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I have a 1998 Lincoln Town Car with about 350,000 miles on it. This morning I sensed a slightly rough idle when I started it up and let it sit in the driveway. While idling I plugged in a scan tool and after a few minutes it showed a P0306, a misfire in cylinder 6. I know there could be a few causes of this but my past experience has been a bad ignition coil (this car has the coils on each plug).
Over the years I've had 3 coils go bad, all giving the same rough idle symptom and P030x, where x was the cylinder number. Replacing the coils solved the problem each time.
So this morning I assumed it would probably be the same. On my way to the auto parts store (4 miles), I monitored the computer, it kept throwing a P0306 (cylinder 6) and I kept clearing the code. About 2 blocks from the store, the car seemed to be running a bit rougher. When I pulled into the lot, I got a P0307 code (and no P0306). Hmm. Well, I bought a new coil and replaced coil 6. I then sat in the lot and idled it and after a few minutes it threw the P0307 again. I cleared it a few times and it came back.
I assumed there was about 0 chance that a second coil could go out within minutes of another (assumption from a car tinkerer, not a professional), so rather than buying another coil, I drove it home to do some further testing. On the way home, it kept throwing the P0307 and nothing about P0306.
So at home, I swapped coil 7 and 5, idled it for a few minutes, and, sure enough, it threw a P0305 (the problem had moved to cylinder 5, following the coil). This indicates to me that I had 2 bad coils?!?
So my question is whether it's possible, or even common, to lose two coils at virtually the same time. I should also point out that before today I did not notice rough idling and there were no computer codes set. I also thought maybe it's possibly a problem developing with an ignition module (but I'm not sure if my car even has one).
Anyway, it was late and I have not replaced the second coil. I did do a couple other tests. I measured the resistance on the primary of the new coil, as well as 5, 6, and 7 coils. They were all close to 0 ohms. The resistance of the secondary ranged between 5k and 8k depending on the coil. Out of curiosity, I also did a final swap of the original coil 6 with the "faulty" coil 7 now in 5 (follow me?) and it still throws a P0305, indicating both the old 6 and old 7 coils are, indeed bad. Another note is that both "bad" coils are about the same age (maybe 150k-200k miles on each), so they're not newer ones.
Does this all make sense? Should I go ahead and replace the other coil and see what happens, or should I check something else?
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So after taking my car to the stealership to get defective door seals fixed, I start driving home and I realize the front tire is flat. After changing to the awesome 17" spare, I decide to get gas. After filling the car up, it started for a few seconds running real rough and then shut off. I tried restarting it multiple times for about 10 minutes and the car kept turning over, but no start. I finally just shut it completely off for five minutes and it restarted, but is running roughly with the CEL light on and another green light, EPL, or something like that. I was able to drive home, but the check engine light is on still and runs like crap.....Back to the dealership in the morning. What this could be? I noticed lately sometimes when I push the gas hard it kinds of bogs down for a sec before accelerating. I had them check this and they said nothing looked wrong when they tested it. Fuel pump maybe?
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I have a 2001 mk4 golf 1.8T, tonight I was driving and all of the sudden the gear changes started clunking really rough ( it's an automatic) and then it would pulse for power only give it to me at random not when I gave it gas, coming to the next stop sign I pushed the accelerator to go and for the first 3 seconds nothing happened until it jumped in revs spinning tires and shooting me forward, so I shut off all the electronics in my car which seemed to work with the not getting power issue but when I finally got to where I was going it now won't turn over, you turn the key you hear the starter try but that's it it just won't turn over, there's no check engine light and I already have a call into my mechanic.
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I have been beatingy head against the wall for the last month with this car. It started out by just running really rough and stalling out. Found out that I had a bad clamp on the air intake that attaches to the throttle body. Replace that after I already replaced the MAF. Everything was great till couple days later then the car just crank crank crank no fire....
I cleaned the grounds pulled the plugs and coils, had perfect spark. Put everything back come to find out after going thru my Bentley manuals I jumped around the fuel pump relay fuel pump kicked on perfect started great! Replaced the fuel pump relay BAM! Ran great!!!! For 2 days..... After that right when I pulled into the drive way the car would not start.... So I tried everything again.... To no avail..... Check the codes again, now I'm throwing these codes which yes I did cross reference in my Bentley manual.
P1117- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 short to ground
P1198- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 electrical malfunction
P1472- EVAP emission control LDP circuit short to ground
P1516- Intake manifold changeover valve circuit open
And the dreaded same code I've had the whole time........
P0102- Mass or volume air flow circuit low input.
I have also tried tracking down any bad wires, and testing resistance...
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the last couple weeks the engine has been running poorly, rough idle .... and sputters until about 4k rpm with a noticeable loss in power. No clue what it is ... it seems to spring up after I got a coolant hose leak on top of the motor.
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Purchased a 2000 F150 (over 200,000 miles) from a company fleet. The truck is not driven on a daily basis, only when needed to haul something to land field. One morning I had to drive the truck. When I pulled out of the driveway and began acceleration the truck began to shake violently. After some experimentation I came to the following conclusion. The vehicle starts to shake when a speed of 45 mph reached.
If I try to hold the speed between 45-55 mph the shaking continues. If I let off of the accelerator, the shaking stops, if I accelerate thru 45, the shaking stops. The shaking is not from wheels, rotors, axle etc. The check engine lite also came on during this time. When the shaking starts, if I attempt to accelerate, the truck looses power briefly then picks up. I didn't pay alot for the truck and really don't know how much I am willing to put into it. If it doesn't cost alot would like to keep the truck running.
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I have a 7.3 that's running rough. Started it the other day it ran alright but started blowing white smoke. Bought a oil and fuel additive i was going to run through it. Came a few days later, it stated up and was real loud and sounding like it was loping. It blew a good amount of white smoke, but it just smelt like real heavy diesel. Now i can only turn it over and it won't start.
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I was driving along the highway cruising at around 100 km/h when out of nowhere the car started driving a little rough so I look down and the ASR (traction control) light was on. I got off the highway, shut it down and fired it back up. The ASR light was off and car running like normal. When I got home I scanned it and these codes came up:
The catalyst code if from my catless turbo-back exhaust which I plan to fix next month with a tune. Anyway I cleared all codes and continued on my way without any other hiccups. So is my MAF sensor dying/dirty? ECU? N75 valve? Boost leak? I'm making a boost leak tester today just to 100% eliminate that variable, though I'm fairly certain I'm good there.
The car is mostly stock except for a few bolt-ons, all of which I've had installed for thousands of kilometers now. Here is what isn't stock, not including suspension, wheels, etc:
Forge 008 diverter valve
034 Motorsports PVC silicone hose kit
Samco boost hose kit
Forge silicone turbo inlet pipe
Eurojet SMIC
custom built 2.5 stainless, catless turbo back
AEM Dryflo short ram intake
GLI MFA cluster
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I just replaced my injectors in my 12v vr6 and now having some problems. Mainly having issues with start up. Having to feather the gas to get it to start and still runs rough for a min or two.
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So the Jetta started running rough, then stalled after starting. Couldn't drive it home so I had to tow it. Got to the house and read codes. It gave me P0135, P0171, and P0321. I researched and saw that the only code of these three whose symptoms included stalling was P0321, so I replaced the Crankshaft Position sensor. Tried starting it, and it wouldn't start at all. I kept at it for a while thinking it would catch, but after 5 minutes the battery was too low to crank. I tested the old crankshaft sensor, and had resistance of about 900 ohms, so it was in range. For giggles, I pulled the new one and checked it, also in range. I put one of them back in, and proceeded to scratch my head. Charged the battery up, and now not sure what to do. I need to do a very close hose inspection, but there are no obvious tears or breaks.
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So my engine light came on today while I was out so when I got home I plugged in my OBD2 reader and it gave me a P0441 code which in my Haynes manual says "Evaporative emission control system- incorrect purge flow." Before I got my scanner, I had the engine light come on and I took it to VW. It was the same thing last time. I couldn't quite understand the poor explanation given from the VW guy and so now that that code ran again.
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Regarding my problem (outline below):
>> Went for a refueling stop, and thereafter proceeded onto the highway
>> Approx. 500m into the drive onto the highway the car started jerking and running rough with an initial puff of smoke (none thereafter)
>> Immediately after this initial jerking/shuddering there was a significant increase in fuel consumption i.e. from a familiar 8.2L/100km to 18L/100km in the cruise
>> We continued driving not knowing what it was (I suspected a spark plug may have stopped working)
>> Pulled up at the gas station to observe what went wrong inside the engine bay - no signs of any leaks, fuel sprays, etc. but only that the engine was shaking
>> I checked the rear of the car while the car was idling and observed a pulsating sound...some light smoke and a fuel-rich egg-like smell
>> Asked around and I was led to think the catalytic converter was ruined, so the next day I had the catalytic converter cut out
>> After removing the catalytic converter the problem persisted...although the engine operated with slightly less flow resistance
Attempt at diagnosing the problem
>> My wife called in a technician from BMW at Canal Walk to come have a look and what errors were flagged
>> The tech ran the diagnostic and no fault codes were indicated, except a few short circuit faults due to my incorrectly placing -ve on +ve when I tried to charge my cars battery with jumper cables
>> He proceeded to ask if we changed the spark plugs, I said yes. He then looked at the oil on the intake manifold and said there could be a torn valve on the intake manifold and that air that is not measured by the air mass flow sensor is entering the engine, which is causing the car to rev hunt (this problem of rev hunting has been with us for a while). The engine also shuts down uncommanded at stops and sometimes between shifting gears with the subsequent loss of power steering (very dangerous!!)
>> We also had the O2 sensor replaced a month before this occurence
The images attached (#1- #3) are marked up to indicate the component I am referring to.
[IMG] FilesImage_1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG] FilesImage_2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG] FilesImage_3.jpg[/IMG]
Went to Cape City VW in Cape Town and the part number for that orange thing/diaphragm is 06A 198 205A 'Repair kit for valve'. Is this significant? The car sounds as strange at idle...as if has noisy valves. I can upload (if there is an option) a sound clip of how the car sounds if this assists.
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So my daughter's 2000 Golf Mk4 with 160,000 miles on it was running rough and had 3 codes stored - cylinders 2 & 3 misfire and a 411 secondary air injection problem.
Having had the misfire code before I swapped injectors around and the error code moved cylinders with the injectors so I attempted cleaning them and also cleaned the throttle body and intake manifold. At this point car still running rough but also started smoking badly.
Replaced the following items:
- Spark plugs
- Spark plug wires
- PCV valve
- PCV hose
- Fuel injectors w/ remanufactured
Hose reconnected between secondary air injection pump and air intake - previous owner had duct-taped it in when he couldn't get it to seal I guess. I've never heard it run.
Car running better, idles more smoothly, doesn't stumble or stall like it did before, no error codes coming up BUT car smokes a lot and the fumes make me feel sick just driving it a mile.
The car had never smoked like this before, hasn't had a whole lot of love the last year or two but no real problems either so why the sudden smoke?
At first I assumed it was cleaner being burned off but that should have been gone in under a minute and this is on-going. It's bad enough to not only be embarrassing but apparently dangerous as the fumes are bad.
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I have a 2006 E350 van, just recently had passenger side injectors replaced along with dummy plugs and stand pipes. I was at the car was spraying it off and noticed it started running rough, just figured maybe some water made its way into the engine bay and something got wet as it was running great. Well its stayed that way and i am getting codes p0264 and p0276. Digging around on the net seems like its ficm or wiring, ficm is 48 volts and 13.5 volts, connectors are on tight and i dont see any wire chaffing kinda stumped. hoping its not 2 bad injectors at once.
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My 2.0 recently had some problems with the coil pack so I replaced it. Now my car hits a "flat spot" when accelerating around 2000 RPM and then another around 2600 RPM. If I am in 3rd gear going about 20MPH and I press the gas about 25-30% it sort of shakes and won't accelerate and when I take my foot off the gas and slowly ease the pedal down it accelerates fine.
My car also runs pretty rough at a cold idle(misfires). When I press the gas it sounds smooth until it gets back to idle. At any temp my car runs really rough with the A/C on. I also hear a rattle/Buzz around my relay panel when the A/C is on. My car is a 1999 2.0 AEG. I don't have VAG-COM just a generic scanner and the last codes I got were:
P0134
P0135
P0141
I replaced both O2 sensors and the beginning of this year and those codes came back right after I did them. I will scan tomorrow and post any new codes.
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I own a 2001 Jetta GLX 12v VR6, lately the car has not been running well. It chokes the power past 3500 rpm's and will continue running poorly and sound sort of like a Subaru boxer engine. Sometimes it corrects itself and runs okay but goes back and forth.
I ran the codes on VAG COM:
6 faults found:
17551 - Load calculation cross check
P1143 - 35 - 10 upper limit exceeded - intermittent
16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (g61)
P0328 - 35 - 10 Signal too high - intermittent
[Code] .....
I ran VAG COM a couple of days before these codes came up and I had a different code dealing with air/fuel mixture, something about fuel running to rich. I'm stumped.
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I have a 2005 Jetta 2.0 BEV GLS. I got a code P0302 for misfire on cylinder 2. I am pretty sure it's the Ignition coil. I live in Canada and my autoparts store only has BWD brand. I have read this is a crappy brand.
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