99 2.0 jetta. Getting oil on crank position sensor making it miss. Is it the rear main seal? Only reason I can think to have oil around the flywheel... How hard is a rear main seal to change out....
View 2 RepliesI got an f-350 drw it is sluggish on take off feels like a miss. Higher speeds when you step on it. It seems o.k I have been told it could be a crank shaft positioning sensor any in put on this. I have changed the fuel filters, cleaned the e.g.r. valve and yes it was pretty clogged,air filter seems to be good. And 1 last thing for now where would c.s.p.s. be located...
View 4 RepliesAfter installing a new crank position sensor on my 05 GTI 1.8T would I have to recalibrate my ECM, my car will not start.
View 2 RepliesHow difficult is it to replace the crank position sensor? It looks pretty tucked away at the front of the engine. Just wondering how much time I should put aside for this job.
View 15 RepliesI recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
View 9 Replies2000 jetta vr6 manual 150k miles, i have trouble starting the engine so I thought i'd start by replacing the crankshaft sensor. I notice that its wet with oil when i pull it out, and wasn't sure if tits supposed to be dry. I may have a bad ECU in the end...
View 1 RepliesMy car doesn't start right now and a shop diagnosed it as an ecu, but I'm starting to think that is not the case. The tach doesn't move when I try to start it and pushing the gas doesn't change it, so I'm thinking it is the crankshaft position sensor. Unfortunately, down at school, I don't have access to a jack, so I was wondering if there is any way to get to the cpa without a jack? I'd rather not have it towed to another shop.
Also, my coil pack has a huge crack in it. Could that be causing my problem? And my sai has some really frayed wires and I'd rather not replace it if I don't have to because these repairs are really adding up, but could that be causing problems too? it's not causing gas mileage issues and I live in an emissions-free county, so simply not allowing me to pass emissions isn't a problem.
Yesterday driving on the highway, i hear a sudden "clank" and out of the corner of my eye i see my key turn itself to the off position. which i think is really strange... my rpms went to 0 and everything died.
I pulled over, put it in park. I tried to start it but the key wouldn't turn cause it locked. So I took it out and tried again. It started just fine.
She is a 1999.5 Golf 2.0 (although, she just has a rabbit symbol on the hatch, is she a Rabbit or did someone remove the Golf badge?) I just bought the car, with less than 160,000 miles. The dome lights work sometimes, Door Ding works intermittently as well, but sometimes will "glitch" in other words it will be making the sound but it kind of stutters? Odd? The horn sometimes works, however it is very silent? Check engine light is on with a camshaft position sensor code and miss on cylinder 3. Someone told me to replace the "109 relay"... could this be the problem or is this the CCM?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 MK4 Golf 2.0l that's been throwing a CPS error code. My brother was going to come down to visit for a weekend. He had done some diagnostic work and had me order a timing kit and a camshaft position sensor from ECS.
So, with my assembled parts, I brought the car in to a reputable shop. Anyway, the guy does the work and now the car is ready and saying that the CPS took nearly 4 hours more of work.
I've got a 2003 Jetta Wolfsberg that is acting up, I'll do my best to describe and outline the steps I've taken with the mechanic to fix the problem,
Occasionally, when starting the car one of two things happens, (1) engine turns over, fires, and then dies. Removing the key, letting the car sit for 30 seconds and trying again usually gets the car started. (2) The car will start but will run VERY roughly (misfiring, sounding like the engine is choking out). Very much like this (only sometimes much worse, usually ending in a stall): [URL] ....
Turning the car off, removing the key, letting it sit, and then trying it again will eventually work, even though it might take a few cycles. Once the car gets running it almost always runs fine from thereon. (There have been a couple occasions where the car has gone into limp mode, even on the freeway. Pulling over, letting it sit, and starting it again almost always fixes the problem. I've not yet been stranded.)
Diagnosis & Steps taken:
I get regular codes for the camshaft position sensor and also for the MAP (Barometric pressure) sensor. Both have been replaced.The MAP sensor and the atmospheric pressure readings are off by about 30 (something like 960 and 990). My mechanic thought that maybe it was an electrical problem, he noted that the two sensors mentioned above share a common ground. He replaced the ground because it looked corroded. This brought the pressure numbers both to 990 and the car ran perfectly for a few weeks.One thought was to splice in a new wire to the MAP sensor, to see whether it was a signal problem, this hasn't been done yet. Another possibility was that there is a problem with the ECM.
I THINK, that the problems began just after having the computer flashed at the dealership two years ago. I'd got a code about an update and so the dealership did this. I don't know whether this could have had any effect on these problems, but the times lined up too well to not mention it.
I bought an 05 golf GL with a 2.0 and 5 speed in January for commuting to work.
Well, recently. I was on my way home from work, I'm an engine tech for Cummins Inc, and I notice my CEL came on and the car stalled multiple times at red lights. So I limped it home, connected my scanner and the fault was "Implausible signal from Mass Air Flow sensor". I cleared the fault code and tried to start the car. Nothing, no crank no start. Just an audible click from under the hood.
I disconnected the battery for 5 min reconnected it and it started fine. Drove it to work the next day, no issues. I tried to start it again and nothing, CEL was on again for the MAF sensor. I pop started it, car ran like hell, rough idle, low power, etc. luckily I have a dualy that I can drive in the mean time.
Where the Crank Shaft Position sensor is located on a 2004 4.2 phaeton... Dealership want 360 to install it ...
View 14 RepliesEverything I've found on replacing the crank position sensor on my 2002 5.8l Chrysler town & country says its on the bellhousing but its not there!
View 3 RepliesWhere does the CPS located on my truck? Knowing mine is 5.4 L 2000 model. 121,000 miles on clock.
View 6 RepliesI have a 98 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2 V6 2 wheel drive I don't know where the crank shift position sensor is located. I don't have 310.00 to pay someone to replace this.
View 4 RepliesWe bought a 2006 Hyundai Sante Fe with the 3.5L and 4 wheel drive about two months ago, it has 94,000 miles on it. It was purchased from a dealership, and they had to work on it for a month before we took it from them because of some lights that were on, resulting in some sensors being replaced. We had it about a month when we took it to the grocery store, when we came back out I started it and it made a terrible noise, but was running, I immediately turned it off. Upon further inspection, the main serpentine belt had snapped, causing some damage to the secondary belt. We towed it home and I began to fix the belts.
When I pulled off the passenger side wheel and access cover, I noticed the remains of the belt were stuck behind the harmonic balancer, I tugged on it with about 5 pounds of force, and the entire pulley fell off of the harmonic balancer. I'm not sure if the belt stacked up behind and pushed it off, or if it just went bad, but the rubber between the portion that connects to the crank and the pulley was ripped, and missing in some spots. I replaced the harmonic balancer, and both belts, good to go, everything is running fine.
About a week later, the TCS etc. lights came on, but no check engine. I researched it a bit and came up with three possibilities:
1. Fuse
2. Tone wheel cracked/broken
3. Crankshaft position sensor
I checked the fuses and nothing was burnt, I never lifted the truck up to check the tone wheels.
2007 Accent GLS, US-market, Automatic, 140k miles
This is my wife's car. She called me from the side of the road while I was on a job out of town. The car had stalled while driving. She was able to re-start the car with check-engine lamp showing and took the car directly to a garage. It ran normally during that trip.
The garage diagnosed the problem as a failed crankshaft position sensor. They cleared all codes from the ECU without telling us what they were. My wife told them I would fix it when I got home. She drove the car home, parked it there and used my car until I got back.
When I got home, I replaced the crank position sensor with a new beck-arnley part. It was a poor fit, but it did go in. Now roughly every other start takes a few extra cranks. It always starts. It does not stall once started. No check-engine light since the initial episode. I just don't like the random hard starts.
Normal fuel consumption & power output. All other maintenance is up to date.
I've a 2.0L Santa Fe CRDI 4WD, 2003. My Crank position sensor has blown. My question is, does the timing belt have to be replaced with the sensor, or can the sensor be replaced alone? I know the belt must be replaced with petrol models but I've been told it may not be necessary with diesels.
View 1 RepliesI'm working on a family members car. We pulled out the old motor and put in a new one because the old one has rod knock. We're not getting ANY spark. Crank position sensor shows no resistance when cranking. The harness at the crank position sensor shows no voltage. The both coils measure 1.5ohms.
The only two bits of the harness that are in questionable locations are the grounds next to the ignition coil and the passenger side strut tower ground. I have the strut tower one to the closest bolt on the intake manifold and the coil pack grounds to the coil pack bracket.
The car has plenty of fuel and good cranking speed, just no spark. I verified using a timing light (no flash) and spark-plug short-to-ground. The old engine WAS running and all of the sensors on this one were swapped over from the running one. Also, the tach doesn't move when cranking.
Is there something that's commonly overlooked, or something that could be causing the issue searching showed it could be the crank position sensor, but like I said, I pulled the working one off the running engine.
I've got an '03 Accent 1.6 in the family. December 2011 I replaced the crank position sensor and it cured the no start problem. Got it from A/Zone. It lasted 2 years and 8 months. Then, the same thing happened again in August 2014 only this time the car stopped running while on the road and I had it towed to a local garage. They installed a "Standard" & was back on the road again when it stopped running again a week ago. Had it towed to my house this time and read the code. P0336 CPS again! That sensor lasted only 4 months. The garage came & replaced the sensor & it's back on the road...for now. Do these cars only play nice with Hyundai CPS's or should I be looking for an underlying issue?
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