Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 1999 - Key Fob Stopped Working
Jul 18, 2016
A couple months ago my Key Fob stopped working. I tried using the button and then tried to use the key to unlock the door. I'm trying to figure out if there is a possibility that the immobilizer in my fob is junk or maybe its something as easy as changing the battery (which is another issue in itself because I cant open the fob for the life of me) Once again just curious if there is something I can do to fix this issue without contacting and dealing with the dealership. Would like to be able to lock my car again at some point.
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A few months ago I'm key fobs stopes working the I switched out the batteries and still no progress. What it could be?
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The reverse light has stopped working on my MKIV TDi. Done all the usual things I can like bulbs/fuses.
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The issue I am now experiencing is my passenger headlight would only turn on once in a while . The driver side headlight would work just fine both high beam light also . Today I opened my hood I verified the cable had a poor ground to the headlight I noticed a burnt smell after checking the cables . I turned on my high beams both sides turn on . Then out of no where my turn signals both (Left - right - back and front stopped working. Including the Hazard lights both front and back). The cluster would not show neither turn signals turning on ( left-right ) I noticed that my headlight turn signal on the passenger side would turn on but not blink it would stay dim only when . I pushed the hazard light button . My cluster would show the right turn signal ( no clicking no flashing arrow ). The driver side would not work either. What can I do to fix the problem? I know that I will not be able to drive the car due to the issue.
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So I just got a 2002 1.8t, everything was fine until the fans and ac stopped working. After poking around the forums a bit I changed the following:
1. Fan Control Module. Result: nothing
2. Radiator Cooling Fan Switch Temperature Sensor. Result: nothing.
all fan components have the correct voltage going to them. Fuse 16 for the AC clutch is not blown and has power going to it. The AC compressor has power going to it. The fuses on the battery box have power going to them specifically S180.
My question is what am I missing? is it possible that the fans themselves could be bad? car is not overheating, the after run coolant pump kicks on. But the AC clutch is not spinning nor are the fans. btw AC clutch is not seized up.
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The rear wiper on my wife's 20th stopped working the other day. I checked the fuse and it was fine. I pulled off the rear panel and got to the wiring. I don't have a Bentley so I'm not sure what wire does what. I tested the wires and the far left is a switch 12V and the far right is the ground. The center two didn't show any voltage with or without the wiper on. When should these wire see power? What else should I check?
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My blower motor in my Jetta recently stopped working. When I turn on the blower it works for 10 seconds or so then slows down and dies. Is this a blower motor or resistor problem?
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A few days ago I was driving around. I get back in my car and when i turn it on no air blows and the radiator fans aren't working at all. My car hasn't overheated but have stopped driving until I can figure the issue out. I have since replaced the fuse box on top of the battery to no avail. I was thinking that it could possibly be the fan control module but in all the posts I am reading not one says that theirs don't work, they just keep running. So is there something else i should be looking at?
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Last weekend my headlights, wipers, turn signals, AC, and horn stopped working. Through searching and another post I narrowed the issue down to my ignition switch. After taking apart my steering column and getting the switch out, I found this...
The house which is connected to the switch, with the one of the red wires obvious fried....
So I'm hoping this problem and I'm wondering who else has had this happen. When I took apart the ignition switch itself, nothing appeared to be damaged. No burns no broken pieces, etc. the metal post on the outside corresponding to the fried wire on the housing was corroded, but that was it.
I think I need to replace the housing since all that plastic melted and I chipped it away to get to the connector. I can't seem to get the connectors on the wire off of the metal connectors that are supposed to be in the housing.
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I have a 2000 VW Golf 2.slow. I have done some research from other threads but I'm wondering if mine is a simpler fix then testing all the wiring. After taking the car to Auto-Zone and having my battery and alternator tested they said the alternator was the problem. I had to wait a day to get paid to buy the alternator so I had them charge the battery. After I put the battery back in and started her up I got a flashing e-brake light, ABS light and no A/C. My A/C clutch compressor isn't kicking in either. I checked my brake fluid and it's fine as well.
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out of nowhere the right side of my cluster stopped working. The speedometer is completely dead and when ever i go around a cornor my gas guage drops to 0 and beeps. I haven't changed anything with the car and the only thing i e messed with recently was the valve cover.
Is there any wires close to the valve cover that could cause the cluster to short only on the right side?
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When driving in the rain, I've had the scary experience of the windshield wipers suddenly stop working. Maybe 30 seconds later, they start working again. I'm just glad the cars in front of me have had their lights on. It even seems that the wipers go the same speed no matter how fast I want them to. Also, the blades do rub against the windshield. Is it the linkage or should I simply replace the blades?
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So the window switches and hatch release switch have decided they want to stop working. Along with actually locking my car from the inside or keyfob. I have checked all the fuses and the wiring looks to be intact. The hatch release switch doesn't work but the fuel door switch Does work. The passenger side window switch also isn't working and of course both Windows are down.
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I was having battery issues and had a friend hook up a battery charger to my car today. They pulled some relays to see if they could figure out why it was starting right. When I left for work the car started fine but I notice my windows would not roll down at all. I figured no biggie I would deal with it tomorrow.
When I got to work I realized my key fob had stopped working too. Again, I have a key will unlock it after work and deal with it later. After work tonight, I go to the car, I tried the key fob and nothing. No surprise. But I unlocked the driver door and it won't open, try to unlock the trunk it won't open.
I was told they pulled the relays and reseated them when messing with the battery. I can see a red light flashing below the radio. To top it off the keys to my other car are locked in the trunk along with my purse!
2002 Jetta Turbo 1.8....
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Yesterday my 2003 VW Golf TDI turn signals stopped working. The hazard/emergency lights do work. Also, when I push the signal lever forward the brights don't engage. Does this sound like a bad relay or blown fuse?
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I am proud new owner of a 03 Mk4 Bora GLI. I have some issues that I could use a hand with. My symptoms are as follows:
1. Speedometer stopped working.
2. Fuel gauge goes on the fritz (rapidly declines) when parked on an incline or going around corners.
3. Cruise control does not work. "Cruise" light come on the dash but the set/reset button on the stalk does nothing.
Note: All fuses are in tact.
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Driving home the other day my right turn signal stopped working. Checked all lights when I got home and the front signal had a constant but low illumination and all the other lights were mostly out as well, very little was working actually.
Pulled the bumper and head lamp tonight. The plastic connector on the low beam was melted and the wires were burnt. The problem was the two brown wires that are sort of routed together. Third wire (grey or another shade of brown depending on headlight manufacturer) was OK.
Headlights are aftermarket, Volx Tuning, < 1 yr old. The rest of the harness inside the assembly looks good- certainly don't see any opportunities for a short.
I replaced the connector and bad section of wire and plugged it back in for a test. All lights were then 100% operational. I removed the assembly to find that the same lamp was smoking again. (I sort of expected this, but had to try.)
Clearly I've got a short somewhere but where do I start? The part of the vehicle's wiring harness that is visible behind the assembly is in good condition. The lamp itself (H7 I believe?) appears OK as well, I don't guess I get so so lucky as to hear those can develop an internal short in the base or something?
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Yesterday I unlocked my car, drove to work and when I got out, the locking button flashes red on my FOB but it wont lock the doors. The unlock, hatch open and panic all work.
I tried to use my spare fobs, and same deal, all but the unlock works. The power locks work if i press the button inside the car. if i lock the car door manually using the key, it will work, but the dome lights when set to open door lit will not turn off when i lock it.
This is really weird, how I can fix/reset this so I can have the locking function back? Should I disconnect the battery and discharge the system?
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I have a 2004 volkswagen jetta, and it has started overheating. At first my problem was the thermostat. After that was changed out the fans stopped working correctly. It kept blowing fuses in s180 slot.
I read somewhere in another post that this is due to the fact the resistor in the low speed fan go bad, and for your car's radiator fan to go from zero to high speed, causes the fuse to blow. Also I read that when the fans start up it draws the most current, and then after it's running the current is considerably less.
This is my solution, I went to napa, and got a circuit breaker for a car, and Yes, to my surprise they make them. I picked up several a 10amp, 15 amp, 20 amp, and a 30 amp. First, I tried the 30 amp circuit breaker and it didn't trip the circuit, but when I put a regular fuse in the slot, it did trip the circuit, when I did the fan test at the thermostat switch. Next, I put the 25 amp in there and neither did it trip the circuit. When I put the 10 amp in the s180 slot, it tripped the circuit, just as the regular 30 amp fuses do. So that confirmed that the amps that were being drawn from the fans were not enough to trip a 30 amp circuit breaker.
What I did next, is I took a 20 amp circuit breaker and put that in the s180 slot. Then I hooked up vag com on my laptop to check and see how it performed with the 20 amp circuit, and these are the results.
Car Temperature in celsius
at 111 degrees the gauge was moving past the halfway point
at 115 degrees the gauge was one notch past halfway going towards the red zone
at 120 degrees the gauge was two notches past halfway going towards the red zone
at 122 degrees the fans kicked on high speed for about 30 seconds, and knocked the
temperature down to 105 degrees.
In conclusion, if the high speed on the fans work, you don't have to take those out and go and buy an expensive new fan set. Just stick a 20 amp circuit breaker in the slot, and keep using the fans that you have.
Part no: 782-3154................ Name: Circuit Breaker, 20 Amp; Blade
Note: I take NO responsibility for any damage you do to your vehicle from any information you obtained from this post. Do this at your own risk! I am not a mechanical expert but this is my solution to the overheating problems.
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What is wrong with my 2006 VW Jetta. The windshield wipers quit working all of a sudden. I stopped to get gas and turned off the wipers( it was raining), got gas and went to turn on the wipers, they are not working. I don't even hear the motor run. When I was trying to research online, one of the solutions I came across was spraying WD-40 on the motor to dry up the water and try to fix the problem.here are my questions. 1. does this work? 2. do I need a new motor? 3. If I decide to spray WD-40, do I need to take the wiper arms and the plastic guard on the front to access the motor or can I spray through the grill on the plastic cover?
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Ok, I own a 1990 Volkswagen Jetta GLI that I bought from my neighbor about 4 months ago, and recently, it started having problems. It's idling very high, around 1,500-2,000 rpms, it's leaking coolant, not from the bottom of the reservoir but from the top, and it's slightly overheating. Oh yeah, the speedometer stopped working. I've recently taken it to the shop twice, the first time to get the reservoir replaced, and the second time to get radiator replaced.
I have had problems with it stalling in the middle of the highway during traffic because it over heated. I commute daily to and from college and I want to make this car last as long as possible as I do not have the means to buy a new car. I have noticed that there seems to be a build up of air in the reservoir. I witnessed it leak, and there was a hissing sound coming from it. Also with the speedometer, the light doesnt turn on for it and that there is a clicking noise coming from it. Any tips?
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