Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 1999 - Instrument Cluster Removal Affect Immobilizer?
Jun 28, 2014
I am going to remove my Instrument Cluster for an illumination LED changing, to convert them to the white colour. I found out that Immobiliser is located on Instrument Cluster, is there anything I have to be careful?
It's 1999 Bora. I think Immo 2 on it.
I found one Thread that someone had the problem with Immobiliser after cluster removal (it was also for LED job), a car was not starting, he suffered some time tried lots of things, but then everything went OK, even though he wasn't sure what was wrong.
So, do you think there is a high potential risk to take it out? Do you think I have to cut battery connection beforehand?
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I am having a slight issue with my cluster. When I turn the key on or start the car, the speedo needle goes crazy for about a minute then stops above 0mph (points at 5mph when im not moving). While that's happening, the other needles don't work until the speedo normalizes. It also does this when i turn the car off. What this could be? I heard about the VSS can cause speedo issues but what about the rest? I also heard the mk4's can have cluster failures. it's a 99' mk4 vr6 jetta 5spd.
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I will change the cluster lights to blue LEDs.
Some "leftover" questions:
How do I get the needles "clear" instead of red?
How to remove and reinstall the needles the "right way" (e.g. calibration)
Everything else I could find here in different posts.
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Currently my gas & temp gauges do not work, so I assume the cluster is shot or needs fixed etc. my question is can I simply replace it with a used one from eBay, or do I need to send this one back to be programmed? I was reading about the immobilizer which I assume the 2003 is subject to as well?
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I just picked up an '03 Golf and decided to put in the euro switch I had from my old Jetta. When I turn the headlights on (either parking or full) the instrument cluster blue back lighting and the red interior LEDs work only sometimes. When they work, they all work, but probably about 9 out of 10 times, they just won't come on at all, so I have to sit there turning the switch on and off repeatedly until they do come on. What could be causing this? It's definitely not a fuse since they do come on eventually, so my first thought was maybe a relay, but which one? What else could be going on?
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I have a 1996 ford ranger 2.3L automatic. I need to replace the instrument cluster. I can remove all the plugs from the rear of the cluster except 1 black wire I assume is the speedo cable. It runs from the rear of the cluster down underneath the dashboard. How to remove this cable so I can replace the entire cluster?
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I have a 2012 F350 XLT that came out of Canada. So of course the speedometer is in KM. (Large numbers are km and smaller numbers are mph). I am trying to find out if I can simply change out my cluster with a mph cluster???
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With DRLs enabled and a Euro switch in Auto, I get HIDs, city lights and side markers during the day - no DRL indicator on instrument cluster.. With switch in Off, I get only HIDs, but with DRL indicator lit. In Auto I expected only HIDs as DRL and DRL indicator lit. No city lights or sides.
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Just wondering how to remove instrument cluster?
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I am looking into buying a used R32 and as I drove it, a warning came up on the instrument cluster that the door was ajar and it was german text. Is this something that all R32s have? Or is it possible to be changed?
I tried searching but couldn't figure out the proper search terms. I'm not sure I'd even want to change it as the german is pretty cool. Just wondering if this was something that was changed by someone at some point or something screwy with the car's computer.
Also, I know the MKV says what number your car is /5000 on the steering wheel. The MK4 doesn't show that but is that number on the car somewhere?
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My instrument cluster is virtually nonreadable now when the outside temperature gets about 80 degrees. I assume the only way to correct this is to replace the whole cluster.
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I was driving in the sun the other day and realized I can't read my orange information center section of the instrument cluster during the bright day.
Is this normal? It seems dull.
I saw some bulbs for the instrument cluster here:
Would these be a replacement that would fix the issue or is the orange section not using a bulb at all?
[URL]
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My car is ''remap'' from 1.4 to 1.8 golf iv.. I think that immobilizer don't work,can I change speedometer from 1.8 gti without make encode the new one? Only to take the new speedometer and fit it on my car.. Also how can I understand if my immobilizer works? I have vag com...
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My buddy with his 2000 jetta 2.0 that starts then stalls. The immobilizer light turns on and off again as it should during the starting process. Tried reprogramming the key with the 2 key programming process, also tried removing power from the battery and touching the leads together but these are fixes for the immobilizer but the light doesn't stay flashing. Is there anything I can try while waiting for my vag-com scanner to be delivered....
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1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager - all the gauges tach, speedo, fuel, etc., do not function on a restart after about a drive of 20 miles or so. Where I should start looking?
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The instrument cluster on my 99 4runner went totally dark recently. All the individual lights still work such as open door, brake, check engine light, etc. My first thought was to replace the 3 lights that lights up the speedometer, tachometer, etc. Bought new lights from dealership and installed. Still dark. I'm not sure if it matters but I took them out and installed the opposite way. Still dark.
One more interesting thing. Still drove it while I was waiting for lights to come in at dealership, they had to order them. Well during that time my tail lights went out. Saw a video that confirmed I blew a fuse. Replaced fuse. That fixed tail lights but instrument cluster still dark. Is there a fuse that would only effect those three lights on the instrument cluster??
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So, on my drive home from the pub tonight, my clusters went dead, then came back on, then died again. This behavior repeated for the 5 mile drive home. In addition, I believe the lights weren't working as well. The engine was still running, so I simply continued on home and parked for the night. The only thing I can think of might be the problem is the fact that I replaced the serpentine belt the day before yesterday. Is it possible that the alternator is not charging the battery properly and that is what my problem is?
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2003 f350 5.4L auto 4x4. The lights stopped working on the dash so now I can't see the speedo at night. All the dummy lights and gauges work. I checked the 3 fuses for the cluster from the owners manual. All 3 are good. Here's the thing, fuse 35, Checked for continuity, my meter read 192 not all zero's like it should have. I pulled the fuse and rechecked it, it was good.
I replaced it anyway. rechecked with fuse in, I get 192 again. pulled fuse again, checked both sides of socket for voltage and I'm getting 12.64 volts on both sides of the socket. Even though the fuse reads good, could this be the reason my cluster isn't lighting up? Is there a fuse on the back of the cluster?
I see a lot of threads on the cluster lights being out but its usually no tail lights or power windows or other things, and if there's a solution nobody is posting it. Mine is simply no lights on dash or I should say (No Back lighting). All my lights inside and outside work.
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I've got a 2004 Golf 2.0 GL.....and for some reason this morning out of the blue when I tried to start the car to go to work it fired right up....and then about 1-2 seconds later immediately dies. I tried several times to start it....but every time it fired right up, then dies in a second or two. I also noticed that I'm getting the Immobilizer light on the dash....I'm guessing this is the problem.
Why would I get this all of a sudden? Did something happen to the chip in my key? Could the sensor in the steering column by bad? I don't want to have to load this thing on a trailer and take it to the dealership. Why would this happen out of the blue??
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i have a car with a busted out steering column (drunk PO lost the key and tried to screw driver the ignition to get the steering to turn so he can move the car). i ordered a new key by vin and i managed to find the tumbler casing(damaged) but all the tumblers (still in good shape). i have installed another column in the car now and i pulled the lock cylinder assembly with the immo induction ring out. id like to take the tumbler casing out of the induction ring and put in my old tumblers.
how do you remove the immobilizer induction ring from lock cylinder?
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So like the title states I have a MK4 VR6 Jetta that was running before I ran into this issue and was idling but wouldn't reach over 2k before sputtering and stopping acceleration and the EPC light would turn on. Now the car starts for a second at a time before dying which to me sounds like the Immobilizer but the vehicle shows no blinking immobilizer code while starting. What I can check to get this straightened out. I miss my VR6 ... I have been thinking it could be:
1) Fuel pump/ Fuel pump relay
2) Ecu Issue
3) Crank/Knock Sensor
I'm just confused because it was throwing no codes before, the temp sensor worked as the car warmed and the only engine light occurred upon reaching operating temp and due to me being catless upon restarting the vehicle it threw an o2 fault code. Just so confused ...
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