Reprogramming my key for my 1999 mk4 jetta. Recently the battery died on one of my key fobs and the other fob that i have has been dead since i bought the car. i put new batteries in them both now. I have one flip key and the only other key i have is the valet key. How I could re program my fobs?
View 2 RepliesI recently changed my battery and now my auxiliary doesn't work. I have read that it's simply changing a code with program. Vagcom-(VCDS)
View 9 RepliesI've got a strange problem with the keyfobs on my 2006 Camry. I tried replacing the batteries in both keyfobs and reprogramming them, but they still will not unlock the door. I suspect there is an issue with some computer part in the car that is preventing it from working. This was my sequence of events:
1. The key fob stopped working, so I replaced the battery. No luck.
2. Found the spare fob, didn't work either so I replaced that battery too. Still didn't work.
3. Reprogrammed both remotes using the steps (pasted below for readability). The programming was successful because the door locks cycled after adding each remote to the ecu on step 13.
However, after exiting the vehicle the locks still weren't working.
The steps I followed to reprogram the key fob:
1. Begin with the key out of the ignition.
2. OPEN and UNLOCK the DRIVER'S side door. CLOSE all other doors including the trunk.
3. Within 5 seconds INSERT the key into the ignition and PULL it out TWICE.
4. CLOSE then OPEN the DRIVER's side door TWICE.
5. Insert key INTO the ignition then REMOVE it.
6. CLOSE then OPEN the DRIVER's side door TWICE.
7. Insert the key INTO the ignition and LEAVE it in ignition.
8. CLOSE the DRIVER's side door.
9. Switch the ignition to ON then OFF.
10. REMOVE the key from ignition.
11. The door locks will now cycle to confirm the vehicle has successfully entered programming mode.
12. PUSH and HOLD the LOCK and UNLOCK button for 1.5 seconds on the first remote being programmed. As soon as you let go PUSH the LOCK button and HOLD it for 2 seconds.
13. The door locks will cycle to confirm successful programming of the remote. If you have any additional remotes to program repeat step 12 if you have no additional remotes proceed to step 14.
14. OPEN the DRIVER'S side door. Programming is now complete. [URL].................
I am having a really curious issue with the charging system on my 1999 Golf VR6. The battery will not charge and the alternator seems to be nonfunctional. While running the voltage at the battery starts normal but drops until the engine dies within 20 minutes. Over the last two days I have replaced the alternator, battery, and the battery grounding cable with no change in behavior. The exciter wire on the alternator is showing 9 volts when the vehicle is running and 0 when it is off. There is 1.6 ohms of resistance between the B+ terminal on the battery and the respective terminal on the alternator. There is 0.3 ohms of resistance between the B- battery terminal and the case of the alternator. My task for tomorrow is to trace the exciter wire back to the cluster and try to troubleshoot it there.
View 9 RepliesI have a 99 Jetta mk4 and the factory alarm appears to be draining the battery. If the car sits for more than a day with the alarm set the battery light will come on.
If I don't set the alarm it seems ok. I assume it is something with the alarm but I realize there could be some other issues contributing. For example there is a light on the radio that blinks. It obviously uses some power.
I have 3 specific questions.
1. Where is the alarm located and if I disconnect it will is screw up other things? i.e. will the car start and run. Will the remote keys work etc.?
2. Is is possible for ME to disable the auto door look feature. The manual says take it to the dealer but is there a switch or similar that I can access on my own?
3. What is a good battery that people recommend in this size? I noticed the oem factory battery is 575 CCA and I have seen replacements as high as 650 CCA..
I have a 2003 1.8t awp head that needs replacing but can't find one with that exact code of awp! My question is can I just buy another 1.8t head with a different code?
View 4 Replies My car is a 2.0 AEG manual for reference.
So, my alternator died last night and when I changed it this morning, I fired her up and now when I turn my light switch one click I can see my high beam light illuminated on the dash. If I have the switch on any setting, it's illuminated but no lights are on out front except the dtr lights. Turn signals work fine and so do the brake/tail lights. I checked the fuses for both low/high beams but they were fine. I saw someone mention an ignition switch while I was searching but I'd rather get other opinions whether it is that or not.
Edit: My original test drive the car ran fine minus the headlight issue. But upon driving it through the city when I was coming to a stop at a redlight the battery light came back on and it died. It fired right back up and barely made it across the street to a parking lot before it died again. It'll fire up but won't stay on. On my way to an parts store for charging system check.
So I have a 12v vr6 jetta and I really want a better exhaust with a nice clean and loud growl. My friend has a mk5 with a full Apr exhaust that sounds absolutely amazing and I want it to sound like that and I am willing to change my rear valance to the later mk4 jetta style if needed.
View 3 RepliesI own a 2000 Jetta auto with 200k on it. I have the same problem. It wouldn't change gears till 4000 rpm i scanned it. And got the cods g38 and g68. So I changed both. It was working fine then again same thing it works then stop works. So scanned it again and got same codes changed them again worked fine then stopped working so I took it to vw and they told me same thing same sensors and the wire harness so I changed them again got the parts from VW this time. It was working then stopped. And when I turn on the car and drive my gear box display goes all black for at least 10 min driving then goes back to normal. But sill doesn't change gears. Now not even after 4000 rpm. Ps. When I do it manual 1st gear 2 and changes fine once I put it on drive doesn't not change gears.
View 7 RepliesI know it's just one bulb behind the fan speed control knob. I also know (or was told, rather) that the lighting color is red because of some red plastic doo-dad. What I don't know is whether or not this plastic is red because of a film or coating applied to clear plastic or if the plastic itself is red.
I work at a graphics shop so I've got translucent vinyl film in various shades and tints of blue. If it's a film or coating applied to clear plastic that makes the lighting red, I could probably remove it from the plastic and apply a blue film. I'd really prefer not to take apart the dash to remove the HVAC controls only to find out that I'm stuck with red lighting.
I'm having some electrical issues with my 04 jetta and have no idea what is wrong. This came up recently after changing the solenoids in my 09A tranny (side note: tranny works now ).
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I recently replaced the whole head and head gasket on my 2003 jetta 1.8t and it is still overheating so I have to replace either the thermostat, cooling fans, timing chain, or water pump. I have $700 and they said they can fix it for that. So should I spend my $700 and hopefully the problems go away or should I just try to sell the car as is and try to squeeze as much money out of it as i can?
View 7 RepliesGot a 02 Jetta 1.8T 5spd auto tiptronic with 100k miles. Having issues with shifting. Trying to determine if its electronic or mechanical. Had a short in solenoid 10 N283 which melted the TCM. Put in a used N283 to see if the trans is still ok mechanically. Plan is if its ok to put new fluids and solenoid pack. What do the experts think does is need a full rebuild or will new electronics do the job?
After putting the used N283 solenoid the trans works but not correct. The problem is in the shifting only. Feels like its out of time. When you start moving from a stopped position from 1st to 2nd the car takes off good but when changing gears it reves and feels like its slipping then it hits hard into 2nd. Then 2nd-3rd is a fast shift and not hard. 3rd-4th slips and revs a little then changes gears 4th-5th is fine. all down shifts are fine. Does not mater if the car is hot or cold its the same.
If I disconnect the MAF 1st to 2nd shifts fine with no problems. 2nd-3rd little rough but not bad. Problem with disconnected MAF when going in Drive at 30-40mph all of a sudden it jumped into 1st gear and felt like I was slamming on the brakes.
With the MAF connected and I shift manually in tiptronic mode each gear runs real good with no slipping at all. But same problem happens when switching gears. I can drive it smooth if i accelerate to 3000 rpm and then left off the gas a little and it shifts fine.. Same with the other gears.
I got a used TCM to rule that out and the problem is close to the same. It tries to shift at lower rpm but still does about the same problem. I did recently had a MAF go out. Put in a new bosch and no change. Did my VCDS scan and only codes I get is "17840 secondary air". I can get operational data on some solenoids but not sure what parameters to look for.
So I changed transmission fluid on my 1.8t GLS because I was having difficulty shifting out of gears on cold starts. It seemed to work fine for a few days and now I'm back to square one, it still doesn't want to shift correctly!
View 14 RepliesThe other day i started my car after school and about two minutes after the car started the battery light came on. A little bit later, the gauges went to zero but the car was still running, On my way home from school, it did it again twice then the battery light came on and stayed on. I got home and tried bringing the car to autozone and all the lights on the dash went dim and the car slowly died.
View 13 RepliesOn my MKIV Jetta the wire going to S177 is getting super hot an melting my fuse box, an I am talking from the time I start my car to pop my hood the fuse box cover will burn your hand. I used a voltage meter an it reads 14v but the wire running from the fuse box to the alt gets super hot, an it only gets hot on the side of the fuse box. Could it be a bad alt?
View 24 RepliesMy battery frozed because I never take it and it just doesn't charge enough when I do.
Now I took it in, charging. When I took it in it was in good condition, no cracks, no frost/ice
Now, after about 1/2 hour of charging it's all frosted and the connectors of the battery also...it is inside in my room at about 19C and charging at 6 amps.
I've got a problem with the girlfriends golf. Last month she tried to start it and the battery was flat. Didn't think much to it as it was a very old battery and the car had been sitting idle for a few weeks. Swapped the battery for a new one and it started fine. She's been driving it since then until Yesterday when the battery went flat again. The car will start if bumped and when it does the battery light goes out on the dash and the headlights etc. work at full brightness but it doesn't seem to charge the battery. I checked the Battery voltage when it wouldn't start and it was just under 12. With the engine running it only goes up to about 12.6 which I know is too low. I've read a few posts about one of the wires from the back of the alternator causing it not to charge but I can't understand why the battery light would go out when it starts?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2.0 Avh jetta. Around January I started getting intermittent cel coming up. I pulled the code back then and it said it was misfiring cylinders. It'd give me some rough idling when it was on. Since then the light would come on during wet weather. About a week ago the light came on and stayed on. I haven't been able to pull a code recently though to see if it is the same as before (cant get vcds to connect to my car for some reason).
My car has randomly died with a battery light (electronics stay on, engine shuts off) and I know this is pretty dangerous but it hasn't happened on a main road. I replaced the coilpack yesterday and planned to change the spark plugs as well but the spark plugs turned out to be more than i was equipped for (i do have them). Since I replaced the coilpack the car no longer rough idles but it did shut off with the battery light coming on. I'm really trying to avoid taking it in somewhere but I'm starting to think that is my only option left.
Should also add that the car starts up just fine initially but after a random battery light shut off it is a hard start and sometimes takes a few tries...
My daughter's 2004 Jetta GL 2.0L has had a second occurrence where the fuse box on top of battery gets melted and damages fuse & wires. Last time I had the whole box, Alternator wire, fuses replaced and now it happens again. What's causing this to happen? I have read a few searched threads on this problem, but now one has stated a cure to this problem. Only suggestions to change the parts. This second occurrence has caused a slew of electrical problems and CEL's to pop up. including ABS, cooling/fan & a/c problems.
View 4 RepliesA week ago before I left for h20 my battery light came on, i drove for 10 mins and it went off. I also had a battery test and alternator test at that time and everything showed up ok. I drove 800 miles all good. Last night the battery light came on again, I was far from home so just tried making it back but the car dies on me. Before it died the traction and abs light turned on, the lights dimmed, when I gassed it the lights would get a tiny bit brighter. Also my gauges got stuck at the rpm i was driving at and 70 mph, even though i came to a stop already.
When i tried to gas the car it was backfiring, sometimes i couldn't even give it gas. Only way to start the car was to jump it, then i can drive a little before the car died again.
I drove with my battery box off the highway because highway patrol said i have to and got towed how from there last night. The ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY WERE CHANGED a year and a half ago apx 12000 miles, all oem equipment for the alternator. The serpentine belt and tensioner on top have also been changed and serviced.