I own a 99 Mk4 Golf 2.0L the issue I have been experiencing for almost a year now. Is that I'm getting a fuel odor smell every time the car is either idling or moving. My check engine light is on I have also noticed after pumping fuel the car has a difficult time turning on. It eventually turns on and runs .
View 6 RepliesI have been smelling fuel on and off for the last few weeks. I thought it was the fuel bowl drain valve so I ordered the kit for the whole fuel bowl from diesel o-rings. I did the rebuild this morning and I don't see any visual leaks. Still smell a strong odor of diesel though. The lower engine cradle is all wet and the valley is still a little wet too. Could I still have a leak and if so where to look? Could it be just wet still from draining the fuel bowl and needs time to go away?
View 14 RepliesEvery time my car is idling I get this weird fluctuation of rpm. What it might be. [URL] .....
View 7 RepliesI have a 2004 Jetta w/ the 2.0 engine, auto transmission. Lately it has developed a very gassy smell when idling. Could be all the time I guess, but I only ever notice it when idling. It seems more noticeable on the passenger side of the car, or maybe my wife just has a better sense of smell than I do since she noticed it before I did.
The car seems to run fine, about the same as it always has. The idle is slightly rough, but it has been like that ever since I got the car. I got it with about 110,000 miles on it and had the timing belt and water pump replaced as soon as I got it. Mileage now is about 130,000. No info on the maintenance history of the car, but when I had the timing belt changed they said it looked like it was probably the original one.
The check engine light has never come on. I think I'm due for some new spark plugs so I was going to be replacing them soon anyways. Not sure what to check out here that might be causing this?
About three weeks ago, I started smelling diesel fuel order every time I get off my car. The order gets stronger and stronger, I called the dealer service on Monday, the adviser told me bring the car there right the way. It took them more than two days to find out the cause of the fuel smelling; the fuel filter housing unit leaks the diesel! Today I was told it would take at least ten days to get the part in, and I was politely offered an Exploer as my loaner. The V10 was made on 04/04, delivered on June 3rd 04
I do hope this is the only one problem, not the beginning of the Pandra's box. Still, I don't feel that good for the time frame of the coming part and the difficulty of the trouble shooting.
2000 Golf Gl AEG 2.0
My car smells of fuel in the exhaust and when checking the oil it is mixed. I have a cel and it says the o2 sensor is bad, not sure if a bad o2 would be causing all of this or not. The air filter is clean and I have done a few oil changes also. The oil is low also after so many miles but cannot seem to see any leaks.
Car also has over 200,000 miles. Is it necessary to change the gear oil in the vehicle?
2000 1.8t 5 speed Jetta ... The car has run fine up until recently when I started having some starting issues. It was intermittent, and got more frequent and longer. The car will crank but not fire. In the beginning, I could crank it for a few seconds, turn off and turn back on and then it would fire like nothing happen. This continued to happen and progressively get worse until I could not get it started, I could smell fuel which lead me to assume I had to spark.
Today I went out to swap crank sensors but only tried for a little while and cant really get my hand up there. So, I disconnected the battery for a while, went back and connected it, and it started. Up until this point I have had the same 2 codes, over/under boost, but the car has always ran with them present. I scanned today and got a p1545 Throttle position sensor code...But only got that one time. Ive been messing around with disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and among one of these times, the EPC light came on and would not rev passed 1k rpm. turned it off, turned it on, and it was fine after that.
Im sure I have a sensor about to let go Im just not too sure which one it is. I dont have vcds and am not getting a low signal code from the crank sensor with the scanner I have.
Has encountered a strong odor of washer fluid when using it on your windows. I was driving to work this morning through a snow storm and needed to use my washer fluid for the first time. As soon as I turned it on the entire cabin was filled with that smell. Could this be a leak?I thought it was all confined within the engine compartment so not sure why I smell it immediately upon using.
View 14 RepliesCo-Worker's '03 Jetta TDI
Blower works intermittently. Sometimes all speeds will work. Sometimes only on high. Sometimes on all speeds but at a slower speed than normal. Sometimes it doesn't work on any speed.
Switch doesn't bind, blower motor doesn't make any unusual noises and I don't think it is the blower resistor. He did notice a strange odor coming from the vents the other day and, it appears that the foam on the blend door is starting to disintegrate.
So I'm also noticing my car occasionally makes a huge thud sound from time to time when I put it into two certain gears. From park to reverse it's not loud but there's a little noise, but from any gear into Drive it's sometimes a loud boom and the car shakes. My pops mentioned to me this is dangerous because of how the engine is moving underneath the hood when it happens. I just recently changed the dog bone mount, could it be the others? I'm ware that it's wise to change all 3 if you change one but I was on a budget & it was a lot worse before. Someone mentioned it might be my torque converter but I did some research & the two symptoms don't add up. And I'll add once more that this happens occasionally & not every time I switch to a different gear. What it may be?
View 11 RepliesI have a 1999 F250 Superduty with power tow mirrors. Both mirrors are having this issue. It seems both motors moving the mirrors are trying to run at the same time. I tried replacing the control switch since both mirrors are having the issue, but got the same results. Holding the switch to move the mirrors out causes it to move down and out. Moving it in and it goes up and in. I know from experience with electric on a vehicle that when funny things happen, its usually because it lost the ground.
View 1 Replies1996 Mazda Protege, 133224 miles, mostly city driving, automatic transmission
This weekend the car started bucking, problems shifting into gear, chugging, slight odor of oil, very slow moving. This morning (in my pf's) I ran the Scan OBDII and there were no error messages. I checked fluids and they were fine.
Possible problems? I am at a decision point, get rid of the car (needs tires, front brakes and it burns a bit of oil each month (1-2 cups) or fix it.
During recent trip to WITW 2011, I started smelling fuel vapor after stopping and getting out of the car. The smell was easily noticeable near right rear wheel which is obviously at the fuel filler door and neck.
Also, at one time the fuel level showed tank 3/4 full, but after filling it up I discovered that it was nearly empty with appx. 3 Gallons left. After filling the car back up to full, the fuel level went back up showing full, however the fuel vapor odor stayed the same on the way back home.
I have scanned the car and no codes.
Inspected under the car for fuel leaks and found none.
Removed access cover over fuel pump under rt rear seat and did not see any signs of leaks.
Removed rt quarter liner to visually inspect, but did not see anything unusual.
Which component could cause vapors to escape if faulty? R32 now has 31k on it.
I searched and read about possibly faulty fuel sending unit causing faulty fuel level reading, so I will be checking that next. However, no mention about fuel vapor problems.
My oil pressure light is blinking and there is a faint smell of burning oil. I recently had an oil change after letting my car sit for 5 months after the oil pan was replaced. I have checked oil levels and it is just right. I have asked around and everyone comes up with a different answer but they also say they are guessing due to lack of experience with VW's. The light only comes on when the car is moving. When idling, everything appears to be fine.
View 16 RepliesBig time burning smell in the cabin at the end of a high speed run. smells like belts burning maybe.
There's a stretch i take on the way home sometimes, and i can open up and get up to about 120 easily. did it last week and got a strong burning smell, kinda smells like rubber a bit, but it could be fluids... kinda hard to tell, but absolutely a burning smell. but i wasn't sure if it was me.
Did it again yesterday, car pulls perfectly fine, but the cabin was again filled with a burning smell. no CEL's, no nothing that i can tell. cools down perfectly and everything, no beats skipped. All my maintenance is up to date.
We have a 2001 Jetta 2.0L with 170000 miles. The AC had been getting weaker, but now it only works when the car is idling. Which seems really odd???
Started car, after being parked for a while, and the temp was 73F at the dash vent. I figured it would get colder going down the road, but it got up to 90F at the vent. Returned home and let the car idle for a while and the dash temp went down to 80F. Went for another drive and it immediately raised to 90F.
The compressor clutch was engaged and spinning, but the larger metal line at the firewall didn't seem very cold. The smaller line was warm as expected. I added some R134a, but no change at the lines or in the car. We have had issues with the blend flapper and replaced the broken plastic part. You can hear the flapper slap when you rotate the dial from hot to cool, so it seems like it's working.
Could it be the compressor? I think it was only generating 150psi on the high pressure side during idle, but it would go up to 200-225psi when I revved the motor.
Replaced the valve body solenoids, increased pressure to clutch packs 8 clicks, added pentosin, cleared engine light, and the tranny is working perfectly.
I have a 2010 Prius and it has developed a very strong mold smell/odor. It is strongest when the car has been sitting with the windows up. I have tried many of the tips in the forum regarding not using the recirc mode. I've clean the car inside and out, mats, carpeting, every compartment.
I have talked to the dealer parts counter and replaced the cabin air filter with the carbon filter and used the 2 can treatment that Toyota sells (one in the a/c drain x2 and the other in the air intake.). No joy.
I took it to the service department they did the same thing - again, no joy.
They have asked me to bring it back for, and I quote, "exploratory surgery." I asked if this the covered under the Toyota Certified Warranty. He could not confirm that it would be covered.
My gf's 04 gti 1.8t 5spd is having idling issues. Here's the rundown, at idle it sits at 800 rpm but when given a rev it then becomes erratic and fluctuates between 500-1100 rpm. When throttled again lightly it returns to normal 800 rpm idle. The car will try to stall a little bit. Now for the codes and lights. The lights are the traction control light and the check engine light. The codes are p0102 (MAF) and p2181 (coolant system performance). I have recently had a misfire which I took care of with 4 new coil packs. I kept the 3 good ones I took out. I have to change the plugs still but don't think it's an issue. Has new clutch and sits at 148,852 miles.
View 5 RepliesI have a Golf GTI IV 1.8T Tiptronic and having this problem when the car is Idling i can feel the engine vibrations trough the seat and are anything but soft, especially if the trany is neutral and less if leave it in D.
I've changed the dog bone recently, wich was very bad, but the vibrations didn't smooth they remain the same but the driving improved, so the dog did replacement was good.
The next step would change the engine mounts, but they look goof and I don't want to start change parts just in case. Where I live car parts aren't cheap and some times new ones are just crap.
But I have a mk4 gti 1.8t awp and recently it's been going downhill. Right now my only mods are a fmic, Cai, and a 3 in catless dp to a 2.5 in straight pipe. My car recently starting idling very rough and would practically die, the lights would also dim. While casting the idle was very rough too. Then yesterday my car started idling even worse and dying multiple times, plus my turbo stopped boosting and making what I presume to be the "death whine".
I replaced my spark plugs a few days ago and I checked my timing belt and it looked fine. I couldn't find any vacuum leaks either so I'm not sure what would be causing the rough idle? My valve cover gasket leaks and makes my sparks plugs covered in oil but I don't know if that could cause the rough idle. I unplugged my maf and ran it and there was no improvement.
When smelling the oil in the filler cap, it smells a bit like unburnt fuel. Is that normal? It is not super strong but noticeable.
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