My 99 2.0 jetta tends to flash the temperature light on cold starts and when the cars running for a while and im not moving (traffic) the light flashes and starts to overheat. Whats the problem? The previous owner had changed the radiator begire i bought it but can it. I need a new radiator fan or is it my thermostat?
View 6 RepliesSo my temp light comes on in my 2002 gti 1.8t. The light comes on with the engine cold and not running, just keys in. I replaced the temp sender and the fan switch. I already checked the fuses, still good. The only thing i can think of now is the relay. There is plenty of coolant in the system as well. And I am not getting any CEL.
View 5 RepliesOkay so recently I was driving my 2000 Jetta and the coolant temp light came flashing on, when I went to check the coolant I was surprised to discover that it was like a mud brown color, almost looks like peanut butter. From everything I have read this can be from a few things, either rust build up that is gunking everything up and oil getting into the coolant somehow. I'm pretty sure its rust build up but I was wondering what everyone thinks about this, I was also not using G12 coolant which I'm told now is the premier brand for VW's.
View 3 RepliesI am trying to troubleshoot an overheating problem so that I may fix it myself. Not sure if it's thermostat, sensor, or a blockage.
'04 Jetta tdi with about 200k miles. Temp sticks at 190 usually for about ten minutes then starts to climb, varying between the 207-225F mark. Hasn't gone any higher, even in high 90sF ambient temps after 30mins driving. Holds fluid fine, pink G12 mix, and no bubbles or milky appearance to oil dipstick. Recently installed new AC compressor, txv and dryer so I imagine I can tackle thermostat or sensor if need be. Where to start?
I got a mk4 where the temp gauge starts to climb to 3/4 instead of halfway when I'm idling for a while.
1. fans don't come on
2. if I turn on ac, fan come on and temp stays at 1/2
I tested low and high speed on fans. both operational. Is it the fan control module, temp sensor green top, or radiator s/w?
Just bought my 2004 Jetta GLS from a dealership last week. 2.0 Engine. Has 140K miles on it. 2 hour drive from the dealership to home was cold and foggy but it ran fine. In town stop and go traffic in foggy conditions since last Thursday and it has run fine. Got a downpour this morning and all of a sudden it is running choppy and the CEL is flashing at me.
I have a 96 MK3 as well that would run badly in the rain until I changed out the Electronic Coil. Got so I would carry spares with me.
Is it the same fix for the MK4 2.0? I've also read about using epoxy or JB Weld to coat the coils and keep the water out. Does that work for the MK4 Ignition coil?
Since day one I've had an issue with the exhaust leaking on my car, right at the flex pipe before the cat. I have replaced it at least 5 times in the last year. Every 2 moths or so it tears the flexpipe right in half, like it's literally in 2 pieces when I take it out. So, I thought that maybe the factory dogbone mount was old and weak, causing the engine to move around more, therefore tearing the flexpipe apart, so I got an new dogbone with poly bushings to combat that. It did reduce engine movement, but the exhaust kept breaking at the same spot. Then I thought that the metal was weak from it being welded so many times, so I got a new downpipe with the cat on ebay for like 150 CAN, and put a new gasket on, and now it still leaks...
Only thing though, is that this time on cold starts (as it is winter, so around -25 celcius) its really REALLY loud, like the exhaust sheared off right after the cat. However, after a few hours of driving it seems to get quieter at idle, but if you give it a little gas, it is quite audible. Also I can see exhaust fumes coming out my engine bay on said cold starts, however if I get down to ground level, I can hear it plain as day right where the pinch clamp is that connects to the catback part.
So, my theory is that, cause the bands on the clamp rusted out so my dad just put those u-bolt muffler clamps on there, which I can see an opening in the clamp, even if they're tight, until the exhaust gets hot and expands, kinda making the seal tighter but not air tight like it should. So maybe that clamp isn't doing it's job anymore and I just need a new one. OR it could be that that stupid flex pipe is broken again or that the bolts holding it to the manifold aren't tight, which that can't be cause i got them pretty snug on there. I'll have to take a look underneath again, see If I see any carbon on the exhaust, which would mean a leak, but I checked a few weeks ago and it was shiny metal, no signs of any leaks.
Car is an 04 golf with the 2.0 engine code BEV if that makes any difference. I double checked and NONE of the hangers are broken, and it's held in the right spot as it should, there looks to be no force exerted on the flexpipe at all when installed in the car, so I'm really confused.
I am having a problem with my MKIV, @ 182k. I think problem first arose a couple months ago when reverse began not engaging on cold starts, so I would have to sit there 5-10 minutes waiting for car to 'warm up' enough for reverse to engage. This led me to taking it to a local tranny shop who I asked to change fluid only, which they did. Problem persisted however, but forward driving was noticeably much smoother. If that matters. I gave up on it, since I knew it was only reverse messing up, and started parking in reverse overnight etc.
Simultaneously I had a code for P0420/P0411 (the SAI incorrect flow crap which causes catalyst inefficiency) so I went ahead and swapped out the cracked SAI plastic hose leading to stock airbox, after doing so I reset the CEL and ran the car. And it ran like crap, I think it was in limp mode (i had never experienced this in my Jetta) from what Ive read, but not sure. So, I pulled to the side, and restarted car, let it sit, same problem. Finally, after 3-4 cycles it threw a CEL, which ironically FIXED the problem. It ran fine from then on. Made it home, hooked up scanner and CEL code was P0732, which I read elsewhere is a 'Gear 2 - Incorrect Ratio' meaning 2nd gear is messed up somehow.
So, overnight I reset CEL and today in the morning I let it idle for 10 minutes before taking off, immediately same issue, where car will not accelerate/ change gears it seems. Went back straight home, waited for CEL to display, and VOILA, runs fine again. Same code P0732. Running fine as of writing this. Problem only arose after taking a swing at SAI code and reset of CEL's. Once CEL lights up its fine.
So I changed transmission fluid on my 1.8t GLS because I was having difficulty shifting out of gears on cold starts. It seemed to work fine for a few days and now I'm back to square one, it still doesn't want to shift correctly!
View 14 RepliesHere's my question. Recently my muffler fell off the back of my car and was dragging on the ground. The front bracket had snapped off and so had the pipe right where it comes out of the front of the muffler. I want to replace with the stock oem muffler but i can't afford it right now. My question is can i just take the muffler off for the time being so it wont drag on the ground? Will this harm the engine or be completely absurdly loud? Is this even legal....
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 F-350 dually. I am having an intermittent problem with the the OD light. The symptoms are after coming to a complete stop the OD light starts flashing and when trying to move forward it feels as if the brakes are dragging and sometimes stalls out the engine. The codes read with a Superchip 1705 are p1670,p0720, and P0503. When I shift into park, the engine rpms jump from idle to about 1500-1600. I have replaced both the differential VSS and the transmission OSS but still have the same problem.
View 4 RepliesToday was the first time my wagon has stranded me due to a mechanical issue. During city driving my coolant temp light came on so I pulled over to check it out. The fans appeared to be working, the coolant was a fair bit above the normal mark, but I'm not sure the water pump was running. I couldn't feel anything when I squeezed the top radiator hose. This is an '03 with about 50k miles on it.
I'll be taking it in Monday morning so I was curious what people's thoughts were. If it's the water pump is there anything else I should consider getting replaced while I'm at it? I'm still on the original timing belt, a change I've been delaying a long time since I drive so little so it might be time to bite the bullet and do it.
Whilst about half way into an 8 hour drive to NYC my engine temp warning light goes off.
Blast the heater and pull over at the next closest rest stop.
No leak to be found. Looks as though the coolant level is okay Burk can't tell since the car hasn't cooled down yet. Engine bay doesn't seem crazy good. No strange smells.
Turn the car off then on and the warning turns off. I let the car cool for 20 min then back on the road. Warning comes on again on the highway.
What it could be? Possibly the thermostat? Could this fix itself?
I was driving around and I got a low oil light flashing and it turned off straight away.
So I checked my oil. When I first removed the dipstick it shows full, wiped it clean and put it back and it showed empty.
I put have a bottle (small one can't remember size) of oil in. I drove around parked waited a bit, and it does this same thing.
So a few days ago my engine developed a misfire, flashing MIL light etc...long story short it was cylinder 5's ignition coil. When we scanned it, we picked up a misfire on cylinder 5, and a slight misfire on cylinder 1. Replaced the coil, as well as new spark plugs, cleared the codes, and everything was peachy.
NOW, driving home today.....once again. Misfire, MIL light etc. I'm not a mechanic so I am wondering if it is common for all the coils to go around the same time, or if this is probably just cylinder 1 now going. I'm going to once again get it scanned, but before then...is there anything that could cause ignition coils to just start going bad, other than age.
This morning i went to start my car and threw a flashing engine light. common sense says its a misfire. i know it's probably smart to check my spark plugs first but here's my dilemma. if it isn't the plugs and turns out to be my ignition coil, where the hell is that even located? I have an 04 Jetta 2.slow engine
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 vw golf, 5 speed. check engine light flashes after a big rain. The mechanic has replaced the fuse box and spark plugs, but the problem continues.
View 16 RepliesSo my gf's check engine light on her 01 Golf flashes once in a while, and it misfires. But the thing is, it doesn't stay on, and it's once in a while (like once or twice a week). She has new spark plugs, and new wires. I have a feeling it's the coil pack, but I really don't know if it needs to be replaced until the check engine light actually stays on.
View 14 RepliesJust a few days ago I was driving and I noticed as I went over 35 mph my car would stutter and the check engine light would start flashing. And when I slowed back down the car drove fine. I'm wondering what the problem could be? Feels like the car is losing power. Car is currently at 119k miles.
View 1 Replies2002 F-350SD V10 Automatic. Running down the road with no load or with load. First gauges bottom out, next overspeed light starts flashing, engine goes to 3000 RPM on it's own. Stays that way until I shut off then restart. Sometimes it does this several times in one mile.
Second trick, again driving along, all gauges stay up but engine just stops. Got to set dead for 5 minutes before it will start. The shop says on the first problem this happens: Voltage goes way low then goes way high then everything starts failing. We changed battery but no luck. Got to be down line from battery.
I have this annoying vibration that starts at 85-90 mph and stays relatively constant above that, but doesn't get super intense or feel like the car is going to fall apart. Its a light vibration that I can feel at 9 and 3 on the steering wheel.
Background: So about 6 months ago I realized my CV boot was torn. I tried to replace CV joint, but they sent wrong joint(Meyle) so we ended up trying to force it onto the CV shaft for like an hour before giving up. I remember one of my BMW Technician buddies literally smashing the joint onto the shaft with a plastic mallet but it just wouldn't go over the circlip.
We ended up just replacing the boot and putting the old CV joint back on, but we didn't have any extra grease to put in it because we had already put it into the new joint that wouldn't fit. Since then I've basically tried everything I can think of, including:
-Balanced and Road Forced
-Laser Alignment
-Replaced all 4 tires
-Fixed bent rims
-Refreshed suspension/steering:
-All new F+R LCA bushings
-New inner/outer tie rods
-New ball joints
-New sway bar bushings
-New strut top mounts
So what the hell is keeping her from being smooth as butter over 90? Did we screw up the shaft by beating on it? Or is it just vibrating from the lack of grease/damage from torn boot? Was I supposed to align the shaft when putting it back on or something?