Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 1999 - Factory Alarm Appears To Be Draining Battery
Dec 7, 2015
I have a 99 Jetta mk4 and the factory alarm appears to be draining the battery. If the car sits for more than a day with the alarm set the battery light will come on.
If I don't set the alarm it seems ok. I assume it is something with the alarm but I realize there could be some other issues contributing. For example there is a light on the radio that blinks. It obviously uses some power.
I have 3 specific questions.
1. Where is the alarm located and if I disconnect it will is screw up other things? i.e. will the car start and run. Will the remote keys work etc.?
2. Is is possible for ME to disable the auto door look feature. The manual says take it to the dealer but is there a switch or similar that I can access on my own?
3. What is a good battery that people recommend in this size? I noticed the oem factory battery is 575 CCA and I have seen replacements as high as 650 CCA..
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Clutch for the AC Compressor will not disengage even with the AC off. The only way I can daily the car is if I disconnect the power from the AC Compressor at the compressor itself. Seems the AC compressor has a constant draw if it is plugged in.
Plugged = dead battery...
Unplugged = good battery...
I'm getting ready to rip the damn thing off the engine and calling it a day, but that would defeat the purpose of me buying a new compressor.
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I recently bought a 2000 Golf VR6 and I've noticed that my fan to the radiator stays in way too long and think it might be draining my battery. I don't even have to start the engine, once I put my key in the fan starts going. I'm getting really annoyed of having to take the out the fuse to get it to turn off. The battery is brand new so I don't think that's the problem.
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My car has been having an issue with battery draw. when I don't drive it for 2-3 days the battery is drained enough for me to need my jump pack to start it. I have done a wire tuck on the motor and also have air ride. I hooked a wire up between the battery and the negative cable with a light connected and it lights up with the car off. What I have done so far is to pull each fuse in the door fuse panel individually and the light stayed on the entire time. Next I pulled the power feed to my air ride system out and the light flashes and I can hear what sounds like a relay clicking. If the issue were the air ride I would think disconnecting it would make the light go out.
I need to pull the fuse panel that was on top of the battery and pull those fuses out too. Should I try pulling the relays as well?
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Can a remote start system be installed on the factory alarm ?
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I am new to the R32 but I have a 2nd owner 60k 2004. The battery keeps draining, put the new one in and it was good for a day. If you jump it, it will work for about 2days and then it is drained down to 3 to 4 volts. No lights or readout on gauges. I am stumped.
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So I had my hood open to check my oil, not a big deal for a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. When I shut the hood, the car decided to simultaneously lock, and now the horn/alarm is going off and the key fob won't unlock the car or disable the alarm. And the keys don't work in the door/trunk so I can't get inside. What I should do?
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1999.5 MK4 Jetta...
So I mentioned in a previous post that my dome light grounded out and melted the wiring down the A-pillar and into the larger harness. I cut the wire out and strangely am no longer burning up fuse #14 (interior lights, power windows, etc.) but continue to burn fuse #6 (central locking system). Probably the wires melted to the door wires and are grounding out.
Obviously I have to do a bigger fix to get everything re-wired (or just a whole new harness). But really, it's just the alarm that is keeping the car from being mobile, as the alarm is somehow cutting power to the starter (this happened to me before when fuse #14 blew - replace the fuse and boom, you have power to your starter again).
I have searched other forum posts fairly exhaustively with no luck - how to bypass the alarm cutting power to the starter? I know there is a fairly easy way to jump the alarm module connection on the MK3s, but can't figure it out on the same module on the MK4s. Again this is pre-immobilizer.
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2001 Jetta 2.0, manual trans
I've been having problems with intermittent P0420 cat below efficiency code. Everything else is fine, no codes, runs great. I tried spacing the post cat sensor back w/ extender bung (after replacing post cat sensor..) and still get the code. I don't hear any rattling or anything to make me think cat is bad physically. I was told by dealer that a code update might resolve for $200 - which got me thinking that that if that was so, it should should be a problem which Feds should be aware.
I searched safercar.gov and found this NHTSA ID Number: 10054864
It's a service bulletin saying that VW made the limits too sensitive and it seems there was a customer satisfaction campaign to update code - pdf on site CSC-10054864-8736
It says:
May 2007
Subject: Emissions Service Action N7
1999-2002 Jetta, Golf and GTI with VR6 Engine
Update Electronic Control Module (ECM) Software for Catalytic Converter Monitoring System Dear Volkswagen Owner: We are writing to inform you of an emissions service action on some 1999-2002 Jetta, Golf and GTI VR6 engine vehicles. Our records show that you are the owner of one of these vehicles.
What Is The Problem? The electronic control module (ECM) software for the catalytic converter monitoring system is too sensitive. This can cause the MIL to come on, and some vehicles may exceed Federal and/or California emissions standards. Also, in some cases this leads to unnecessary catalytic converter replacement. What Will Volkswagen Do? Dealers will update the ECM software.
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I recently picked up a 2001 MK4 jetta and Have some issues with door locks. Upon searching I'm thinking I may have a faulty door lock module.
Symptoms are that the doors will randomly lock for no reason when I unlock the door and sit inside for a min or two. PO broke the drivers armrest control and glued them in place and I think some glue seeped into the lock button as it is very stiff and no longer works. Going to replace the door card and controls but wondering if the problem may be due to typical burnt out soldering points?
For my window issue, passenger window appears to possibly be crooked in the window clips as it stops 3/4 of the way up and will reverse back down as if stuck. I have to keep pressing it to get it to go up. Does this sound like typical broken clips and glass is about to fall? Would I just undo clips and reattach?
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The other day just after a lightning storm, my '02 F450 diesel's radio started playing all by itself with no key in the truck. Now my batteries are being drained severely but can't figure out why or how.
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I've had an intermittent problem with my factory alarm going off for no reason at all. I replaced the Courtesy light switch on the driver's side hoping to stop my problem. Earlier I found the connector was barely on the button switch and after discovering that I thought the problem would stop. I feel like this car is possessed!
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I've got a 04 Passat TDI wagon with factory keyless locks. The remote/keyless entry range sucks! And yes I put a new battery in it. I've had cheapo alarms operate much further than this factory system. Can I extend the range somehow? Does the keyless transmit through the antenna? Are there any range boosters or ways to make this a real world usable feature?
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My 08' Camry i4 LE has been locking the same way..... I press the lock button twice, then the car honks once, and everyone's happy.
About a week ago, my car started honking twice after I press the lock button twice. This hasnt happened in 1.5 years but it didnt really bug me.. at first.
My problem is... my car's alarm goes off randomly after I lock it. It's like someone pressing the panic button on my fob.. What is wrong with my car all of a sudden??
I read another thread and have disconnected the battery. I will wait an hour and re-connect to check again. I've also read somewhere that I might need a "latch and sensor replacement"..
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My neighbor's kids truck battery drains from full charge to "no start" in 1-2 days. 1999 Ford F-150 w/ 4.6L engine. He has already.....
1) Replaced the Battery.
2) Replaced the GEM module.
3) Replaced the Turn Signal Relay.
He did all this before I looked at it....
I checked the following....
1) Truck off, doors closed, hood open... Amp meter shows 3.6 amp draw. When 1st hooked up, shows 4.2 amps... after a while drops to 3.6.
2) To isolate the draw, we pulled fuses while checking current draw at battery.
a) Under Dash fuse Panel. (Yes, with door closed) We remove fuse #15 "stop lamp switch, speed control, brake shift interlock, ABS, PCM,GEM, RABS test connector". (Really... couldn't be more stuff?)
b)Under the hood is another fuse box (drivers side). We remove Fuse #103. "Junction Block Battery Feed".
3) Found that if we remove the #15 fuse under the dash with the door opens, all interior lights flash on/off at about 1 second intervals... weird.
4) Again, another weird one... with the fuse #15 removed and door closed, the "ABS" indicator and some other indicators and dash lights are staying partially lit... not fully lit.
5) The only "aftermarket" stuff i can see is a dealer installed trailer brake system. Wiring looks professional and disconnecting it does not remove the amperage drain.
I'm hoping that one of you wizards will give me the "slam dunk"... if this happens, it must be that. Can I be so lucky? And, yes. I have my own '06 F-150 that i absolutely love. 6-cyl., manual trans, stripped down without even power door locks... my kinda technology.
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Within the last few weeks my super duty battery has been dead after sitting a few days. Draw is around 80 ma. When I pull the air bag fuse it drops to 10 ma. Before I tear in to this thing need to know where to start.
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Having an interesting issue with my 2013 Elentra Limited ....
A couple times now the factory alarm will start going off by for no reason. This was confirmed by my neighbor, who was sitting outside when it started going off the last time with nobody around it. Also, when this happens, the alarm button the on key fob will not stop the alarm, only unlocking the car will stop it.
Also, after this happens, I can no longer set the alarm (pressing the lock button twice and hearing the car honk once) for usually at least a few hours if not a day. what happens is that i press the lock button and you hear the doors lock but if you keep hitting the lock button, the doors just keep locking, the car never honks.
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I have a 2007 Ford Taurus, the factory car alarm goes off without any apparent reason. It had been a garaged car but has been sitting outside for about the last 10 months. It started doing this in May so I thought it might be heat related due to the high temps we have been experiencing in the midwest??
Sometimes when I get home from work around 5:30pm it will go off within 5 minutes of me getting home. Then other times it will wait until 2 or 3am. I can't lock my doors in my driveway anymore or my neighbors are going to come over and tear the horn completely out.
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I have an 07 SE, and I've been looking for a way to disable the factory Toyota chime and have my horn beep when I lock/unlock the doors. I believe the Asian models have this feature. Just wondering if it's something we can do with the USDM units.
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Reprogramming my key for my 1999 mk4 jetta. Recently the battery died on one of my key fobs and the other fob that i have has been dead since i bought the car. i put new batteries in them both now. I have one flip key and the only other key i have is the valet key. How I could re program my fobs?
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I am having a really curious issue with the charging system on my 1999 Golf VR6. The battery will not charge and the alternator seems to be nonfunctional. While running the voltage at the battery starts normal but drops until the engine dies within 20 minutes. Over the last two days I have replaced the alternator, battery, and the battery grounding cable with no change in behavior. The exciter wire on the alternator is showing 9 volts when the vehicle is running and 0 when it is off. There is 1.6 ohms of resistance between the B+ terminal on the battery and the respective terminal on the alternator. There is 0.3 ohms of resistance between the B- battery terminal and the case of the alternator. My task for tomorrow is to trace the exciter wire back to the cluster and try to troubleshoot it there.
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