Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 1998 - Won't Start In Humid Weather
Dec 14, 2014
My daughter bought BIL's jetta and loves it. Already had to replace the seal on the oil cooler which wasn't too bad to do. But now she's out of town with the car and it won't start. Said it did start and run for a bit, long enough to get half way down the driveway and then die. Won't start again for her. Called BIL and he said it had done that to his daughter also during high humidity times. Well we have been foggy all day, guess that counts for high humidity .Could this malady be from condensation under the cap or is it something more sinister?
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1999.5 Jetta 2.0 Lit, engine 186000 miles, bough it few months ago and this issue is driving me crazy.
Engine Light "ON" and "OFF" depending on weather conditions.
On my , No Engine Light in Cold and humid weather. When weather is hot the light goes ON.
I was thinking on changing the O2 sensor(the one after the catalytic) I do not know if this will solve my problem,
I will like to change the oil, it is using regular 10/30 SAE what grade and kind will be suggested?.
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I have a 2000 Chevy S10 V6 with 176,500 miles that won't start when weather is cold and damp or hot and humid. I've checked distributer cap, spark plug wires, ignition module, and replaced crankshaft position sensor because of a high resistance reading on the sensor (14.17 Megaohms). I've never had any fault codes. What else can I check before I decide to junk the truck.
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So I have been trying to get all the issues fixed on this car, and I think I'm getting close. I just gave the car a tune up, minus a new coil pack. (2.0 engine) I've fixed the broken hose on the secondary air pump and all my error codes appear to be gone. However, when I start my car on humid mornings, the car struggles to stay running. Once the car is up to a certain temperature, the car has no problems. But while it is cool and struggling to run, the check engine light will come on and flash. I heard that it could be from a crack in the coil pack that allows moisture to come in. Does that sound right? I would hate to put a new coil pack if I don't need it yet.
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Looking for a solution to the windshield condensation problem found in humid states. I took my Touareg in for the TSB but it has not worked much.
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I just got my wagon (2002 used) and noticed that the chrome detailing around the back windows of my wagon were getting really foggy in the super humid weather. What is the solution? Wait for winter? I assume the high humidity is just causing condensation in the plastic/chrome or whatever and when I press my fingers hard to it it goes away (consistent with moisture). Can this be fixed? She is so adorable without these clouds!
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I have a 5.0 Explorer 1998 and it has a problem for which I cannot find a definite solution, everyone says a different thing. The problem is that when the weather is hot, sometimes the engine does a strange thing. You ride the car for some time, especially if you do it on a high speed so the engine is really hot (but no overheating symptoms) - and then you kill the engine and leave it for a few minutes - to walk into a store, let's say.
After that you attempt to start the engine... sometimes it starts, but there were several times when it refused to catch, it cranks, at first tries to start, but stalls... then it just cranks without even attempting to start. And I had one occasion when it stopped working right in the middle of the road while crawling in traffic, but it was really HOT outside. Luckily, all other cases were in our town, so I could at least walk home. So, the problem seems to overheating of something, as in normal or cold weather it never happens. And every time, after the car is left to stay in place for some time, an hour or more, cannot say exactly - it starts perfectly!
I am really tried of this and want to eliminate the reason. But I am hearing so many different opinions about this problem. I thought that it could be the overheating of the fuel pump. But then it would stop working while moving, not after you shut the engine off and the pump cannot be still working and overheating. The only place where the heat can build up when you stop and turn the engine off is under the hood, as the fan stops, the coolant pump stops and the air isn't blowing as the car isn't moving. But the pump is in the tank! And I never ride on empty fuel tank, I always keep some level, lately I tried to keep it even higher, but yesterday it refused to start when the tank was almost half-full. Also, if it was just dying - a dying fuel pump gives certain symptoms like slow acceleration, engine shaking and trying to stall when you press the pedal, sudden stalling, uneven idling etc. In this case, nothing like this. The car's behavior is absolutely normal, acceleration good, normal idle. It happens ONLY under certain conditions, involving heat.
Other people say that it can be due to low pressure in the fuel ramp and the gasoline is starting to boil at some moment, when the temperature under the hood rises to a certain point. As a reason they name the pump (but as I said, I doubt it) or the fuel pressure control valve - don't know its exact name, it's a valve which maintains a certain pressure in the fuel ramp and releases excessive pressure by returning some fuel to the tank. However, when this valve gets stuck and doesn't maintain pressure, it mostly influences the cold start, as the fuel pressure drops and you have to crank for a long time while the pump is building the pressure again. But my car has never had any problems with the cold start, it's always instantaneous. Also, when this problem occurs and you start the engine after it cools down, it catches instantly which means THERE IS pressure in the ramp. So I don't believe in low pressure, gasoline boiling and resulting vapor jams.
And finally, I read that it may be caused by defective/dying engine temperature or crankshaft position sensors. As for the temp sensor, I will replace it tomorrow anyway. I am also thinking of having a look at the crankshaft sensor, where it's located on 5.0 V8?
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My 120,000 mile 2003 VW Jetta will not start in cold weather. It starts fine when the temperatures are in the 30s, sporadically in the 20s and not at all in the teens and single digits. When I turn the key, the engine does nothing; it does not crank. Three mechanics have not been able to figure out the problem.
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Recently my 2005 VW golf has not been starting in hot weather. The radio, lights, and every other electronic will start when i turn the key. I will push the clutch in and try to start the car and the engine will not even try to turn over. I hear the starter kicking in so I know its not the starter. I had multiple mechanical tests done and no results came up. No warning lights are on. I brought it to a mechanic and he replaced the clutch relay... and that didn't work. If i leave the car windows open for about an hour after the interior of my car gets too hot the car will start. So I am thinking if it has to do with a relay in the cab of the car. What this will be or what I should try?
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My 2000 VR6 Jetta has an annoying problem of hard starting in warm weather. Last summer through fall when the weather was warmer, it would often crank but not catch. All winter it is fine. A jump will usually gets it after a while. Replaced the battery with limited success. I park in the shade whenever possible. It has the manf. alarm system, and, also, but not always, it is accompanied by key not turning off the alarm. Do not have remote. Replaced the Fuel Pump Relay. No success. Cannot predict, so I don't want to have it sitting at the dealer for days on end.
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My 2003 VW Jetta TDI has a major problem. The engine has likely been damaged by an oil leak that was not discovered until the oil ran out. I now have much reduced compression (340lbs or less) and the car doesn't like to start in cold weather and when it does it smokes much. I need to know if it is worth rebuilding and, if so, where I might have this work done.
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Just bought my 2004 Jetta GLS from a dealership last week. 2.0 Engine. Has 140K miles on it. 2 hour drive from the dealership to home was cold and foggy but it ran fine. In town stop and go traffic in foggy conditions since last Thursday and it has run fine. Got a downpour this morning and all of a sudden it is running choppy and the CEL is flashing at me.
I have a 96 MK3 as well that would run badly in the rain until I changed out the Electronic Coil. Got so I would carry spares with me.
Is it the same fix for the MK4 2.0? I've also read about using epoxy or JB Weld to coat the coils and keep the water out. Does that work for the MK4 Ignition coil?
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My car has 130k miles and has recently developed a worrying noise. It makes an extra whirring sound, like another set of gears spinning, but I don't think I would describe it as a grinding noise. I live in VT and I thought maybe it was my (studless) snow tires making more noise in the warm weather because I noticed it about a month and a half ago when it warmed up. Now that I have my all season tires on, it's still making the noise. The tire guys didn't notice anything wrong when the swap happened (but they only do tires there and I didn't ask them to look for anything).
As far as I can tell it is dependent on wheel speed, not engine speed. It starts at about 20-25mph and gets louder the faster I go. At about 65 the normal road noise is louder than the new noise. If I turn the wheel to the right to any degree the noise goes away. I can't tell if it is completely gone, but it seems like it is. There is no real change if I turn the wheel to the left, though it might get slightly worse. When the noise is going I can feel a vibration in the floorboard that matches the sound. The sound seems like it is coming from in front of me, but I can't really tell if it is left, right, or center. As far as I can tell that is the only new noise, no clicking/griding when I turn the wheel etc.
I'm taking it in for normal 130k maintenance in a week....
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I've got a 1.8T 2004 automatic and the problem I'm having is the shifter is harder to move since the weather's been colder. It shifts very well and is responsive, it's just that I have to pull it harder to select P, R, N and D. D is especially hard (no pun intended you sick minds! ) to select, the shifter kind of stays in neutral but shifts after a bit. Is there anything I can do to fix this?
Side question: is the rear defrost supposed to turn off after a certain period of time? My 2002 golf does it but the jetta doesn't.
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My 1993 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon starts and runs great in dry weather, but in wet weather, i.e., after/during rain, in very humid conditions, it has trouble starting and often won't start. The engine turns over but doesn't run. I got it started this morning after opening the hood and cranking it, thinking that the airflow might dry out whatever the issue was, but after driving for 3 minutes it stalled at a stop sign and I had to repeat the process.
A wire to the alternator was recently replaced, which I thought should have stopped the problem, but it didn't. The alternator checks good, and the check engine light is not on.
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997 2.3 TruckSo this has been an issue for a long time, actually one of the issues I had when I got the truck 3 years ago. After it rains or is extremely humid, my truck does not want to start. Sometimes it will after cranking and cranking and cranking for a while (stopping to cool the starter of course) and other times it won't start.
This time around, it won't start. I cranked it for a little bit and had my dad check for spark while cranking. No spark at all. What should I start looking at? Coils, crank sensor and wires are all newer. As mentioned before, EEC has been replaced. Could it just be bad luck and I got a crap crank sensor? All fuses and grounds are good.
No codes, either except for the occasional misfire code that I get for some reason after pushing in the clutch to decelerate from a higher RPM. It'll fall and start to misfire, but clear up when taking back off.
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It is pretty common knowledge that when we start our cars they initially rev to ~1200rpm for a minute or two and slowly drop down to just below 800rpm. I generally use this as the "warmup" time for the car and try not to drive until the rpms drop. But lately in this cooler weather (<20F) when I start my car the revs do not go to 1200rpm, they start right around 800rpm and don't fluctuate. Why this might be happening?
Last winter I did not pay attention to the revs so I can't confirm or deny that this happened before. But I do notice it only in cooler temps. If it is much above 30F the car will start like normal.
Only engine mods are APR stage 1+; VWR intake and APR HPFP.
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I just bought a 2000 f250 diesel truck and am having problems with the ac. When I first turn on the ac it blows very cold and works perfectly but after about 5 or 10 minutes it will start blowing warm and slightly humid air for probably around 5 or 10 minutes and then suddenly the very cold air will come back. This cycle repeats over and over again and I'm not sure what is wrong.
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I have '98 VW JETTA Wolfsburg and EVERY time after hard rain (cold OR warm weather), the next day my car is unable to start without giving it gas while turning the key. It only starts after a few tries AND it "bucks" when I give it a bit of the gas pedal early on (within 5-10 minutes) into the drive. After that time, it drives great like always. Just had the fuel system "cleaned" at a local oil change conglomerate, which yielded tons of white smoke out of the tailpipe.
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Car Spec : VW Golf IV 1.6 SR 1998
Problem : I have a strange grinding noise coming from the front of the car. I can only hear it if all the windows are shut. The noise starts when the car starts moving, Doesn't matter if its in neutral or not, clutch pressed or depressed. The noise is there even if I switch off the engine whilst the car is still moving. It goes away when the car stops.
Yesterday I noticed that if I move the gear stick from left to right OR right to left in the neutral position (while the car is still moving), the noise increases!! What could be the potential problem? is it related to transmission? brakes? or wheel bearings?
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Automatic 1998 Golf 4 1.8L 20V shakes so badly to a point where the engine stops totally when I put it on reverse,and on drive sometimes. What might be causing this.. I recently replaced the gearbox oil with a new one..the car was fine before this change of gear box oil
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