1995.5 Jetta VR6
Misfire cylinder 1 and random misfiring
P300 P301 Vagged it and can't figure it out
Changed the plugs, wires, and coil pack Used and old timing light and getting spark in all wires so can't be the coil pack
Fuel injector, O2 sensor, any other things?
I am having a recurring problem, My engine keeps misfiring. I have replaced the spark plugs, ignition coils and pcv valve with all new parts and and fixed it for a little bit but now my car is misfiring again, and Im hoping its not the head so need to narrow down what the problem is...
View 1 RepliesSo leading up to today ive had some bucking under load which felt like misfiring to me. I borrowed my friends VCDS cable, checked MAF, checked o2 sensors, checked cat. They are all good. This problem is constant but i did get a misfire code once (random, cyl 1, 2, and 3). I cleared the code and they never came back.
Today as im driving home from work, the bucking problem was much worse. Then the CEL came on. I just checked the code, and it was system too lean. I cleared the code and now the car will not start. It cranks, shows rpm on VCDS and sputters but doesnt even come close to starting.
I have a 2001 golf with a 2.0 AVH engine. I recently replaced the coil-pack and was very pleased that the engine was running better, the only problem was the mpg was still kinda low in the 24-5 range when it used to be 29.
I tried to do a compression test but I didn't prepare properly, I thought you left the coil pack plugged in and the fuel fuse. Now I have a CEL that *was* flashing saying cylinder one is misfiring though it has stopped flashing. I drove it 13 miles home and it did improve but its still running rough. Very reminiscent of when my bad coil pack was still in there, a real lack of power.
So I have to ask, what can I do from here? Have I damaged my coil pack or cylinders? Will this likely go away on its own? Is there anything I should do?
Is it possible that disconnecting battery causes a misaligned throttle body, which in turn causes the EPC light to come on? And does a misaligned throttle body also cause misfiring cylinders (1 & 2 in this case)?
View 3 RepliesI recently bought a 2000 jetta vr6 MK4 and since i have had it its had a misfire problem. So its saying that its misfiring in "cylinder 1" and sometimes when I clear the code it will stay off for the whole day. I did everything I could think of. I replaced all the spark plugs. I replaces the plug wires. Then i bought I new coilpack. and its still misfiring.
View 10 RepliesCEL came on and the report says #2 cylinder misfiring. Changed plugs, wires and coil. Last step was to change the #2 fuel injector. I changed the 2nd injector from the left but I'm still getting the same message. I was wondering if maybe they aren't numbered that way. It's a 2004 Jetta with Car engine: 2.0L L4 SOHC 8V. Did I change the wrong injector?
View 1 RepliesI'm getting misfiring after the engine is hot, but it only shows up under certain load. For example, if I'm in 3rd gear at about 2500 rpm and I give it some amount of throttle, it wont misfire at all but if I give it just a hair more (maybe past 50% or so), it will start misfiring badly and the blinking CEL comes on. The codes it's triggering are misfire on cyl 1 and multiple misfire.
I replaced the coilpack about 6 months ago, that's why I'm hoping for some feedback before I drop a few hundred dollars on another one. I had the plugs out very recently and they look fine. The shape of the wires are difficult to get multimeter probes on so I haven't checked them.
So I have a 2004 jetta GLI (1.8T) with forge splitter valve and short ram intake. I went and got my codes pulled and all 4 cylinders misfiring and random misfires. I replaced both coil packs and spark plugs. check engine light popped up again after about 20 miles and same thing. I just bought the car so I'm not sure how long it has been running with these misfires. I just got the timing belt replaced. I know it could be off a tooth. (Wouldn't a code pop up though for it?) How could I check that. And I also took my MAF sensor off as well and no change. Heard it could be clogged cat, any way to check? I've also cleaned the throttle body. It runs fine when I'm driving, just a rough idle.
View 15 Replies2002 Jetta 1.8t, auto tranny, 90K miles. Recently took it in and had all coilpacks replaced under VW's recall.
Sometimes when it's been sitting out in cool air for a long time (in Texas summers, this is nights-only), about 3 miles in it suddenly starts misfiring- BAD. Check Engine light comes on. Lasts about 30 sec, then goes away and doesn't come back for the rest of the drive. WTF?? I can't make it happen on queue.
I heard about the all-too-common grounding problem on the engine harness. I did find a significant resistance between the ring terminal on the head and the battery (-). I tied the 3 ground posts under the battery together with 12ga wire and crimped terminals, and ran another 12 ga wire up to the engine block ground right under the ring terminal that grounds the coils, which should have shorted past any weak spot on the harness. PROBLEM STILL OCCURS!
Scans showed:
17766 Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
16682 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
16684 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
17658 Low Fuel light (only ~3 miles after lighting the Low Fuel warning, I don't think the fuel pump's running dry just yet here)
Seems to focus on Coil 2. But last time I did this I got these errors for Coil 3 and swapped it for a new replacement I had in the trunk in case one went out unexpected. Well now it just says Cylinder 2. Just did it again tonight after clearing codes and got these same Cylinder 2 errors again.
Actually I started to wonder... I've been running the tank close to the "low fuel" light to check my actual mpg usage (no display for it in my MK IV), but fill back up a few miles after it lights. I can think of a couple of spots on the late-night drive back that I see this, one's after a hill which might cause a fuel pump to run dry temporarily, but another's a light downhill then up a light offramp. I don't think the tank's been low every time this happened but I'm not sure. Well, a couple of times it's been mostly level in the parking lot anyhow and misfired a bit right off the bat when starting, so probably not.
Wouldn't there be some sort of "low fuel pressure" code if fuel starvation was actually the issue going on? Hmm, I went looking and I'm not sure there is one for a MkIV, there's errors for fuel trim but I don't think you get those in short-term. This is kinda scary how it just goes out while driving, and I can't do much to reproduce it or test out fixes.
So looking further, other people report what may be intermittent fuel pump issues when the tank goes low. But could that result in "Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit"? I mean the coils will still electrically read as firing. Of course if the system gets all glitch-y, the software may be making a mistake somewhere and report this wrongly.
I'm having a misfire issue on my 1.8t. When I go into high boost I'm getting bogged down and misfiring.
I plugged in my obd2 adapter and it gave me a misfire on cylinder 3. I since cleared the code to try and see if it was a coil pack by switching it to another cylinder, but now the cel won't come back on although the problem persists.
I have recently changed the plugs and the car was fine. I then added a fuel injector treatment and the misfire started shortly afterwards. (coincidence perhaps). It's frustrating as I can't rule out coil packs as my cel won't come back on and my code reader is not displaying any faults.
I did previously have a cel with something about fuel trim bank 3? I am also sure I have a boost leak as the car whistles pretty loud under boost.
Also worth mentioning I have a bit of white smoke sometimes but I'm not using oil or coolant and they are not mixing either. I'm at the end of my tether with this car and just want to try get it back to normal.
Firstly, my car is a 2001 with a 1.8T, 5 speed manual. It has APR's 93 with the mode-switching software, a FMIC, a short ram air intake, the SAI delete and the original DV (used to be a Forge 007). I bought the car in 2008 and it didn't have this problem until the following winter, sold it in 2012 and recently bought it back from the guy I sold it to.
My car will start and idle great, and accelerate through first gear without problem. In second and third gear, when it hits around 3000 RPM, it just suddenly starts to sputter and run like crap and not get any kind of boost. Fourth and fifth gear, I can run it until it peaks and it'll never miss a beat. It only does this when it gets cold outside (sub-30 degrees) and is perfectly fine the other nine months out of the year. I usually don't drive it in the winter if it's avoidable, but I have to travel a lot this year and would like to drive it instead of my truck.
In the past few years/15K miles, I've replaced:
- All four coilpacks
- All new spark plugs
- New coilpack harnesses
- Catalytic Converter
- Throttle body (twice)
- Diverter valve (back to stock, other owner did it)
- SAI delete (other owner did it)
- Fuel Filter
- O2 sensor
- ECU (the factory one got shorted and had to be replaced back in '08)
I've also gone through and checked every vacuum line and can't find any leaks (including spray testing). My CEL is on due to the SAI delete. I've tried it in both the stock and APR mode and it doesn't make a difference.
So a few days ago my engine developed a misfire, flashing MIL light etc...long story short it was cylinder 5's ignition coil. When we scanned it, we picked up a misfire on cylinder 5, and a slight misfire on cylinder 1. Replaced the coil, as well as new spark plugs, cleared the codes, and everything was peachy.
NOW, driving home today.....once again. Misfire, MIL light etc. I'm not a mechanic so I am wondering if it is common for all the coils to go around the same time, or if this is probably just cylinder 1 now going. I'm going to once again get it scanned, but before then...is there anything that could cause ignition coils to just start going bad, other than age.
I just got this car it a 2002 jetta glx vr6 12v 5 spleed. It has a miss new plugs wires gas and used coil pack. It misses especially when cold check engine light on says cam sensor changed it and still same thing if I clear the code it comes right back.
View 1 RepliesI did a valve cover gasket replacement. Changed all spark plugs and coilpacks. The car is still misfiring. I also just did the timing belt and water pump. Why it's still misfiring?? I'm new to this whole forum thing so bear with me lol. I'm wondering if it would be my cat, fuel pump, fuel filter. Or could it be a sensor?
View 2 Replies2004 gli , 1.8t , 136k , 6 speed
The car started misfiring after exiting the freeway, at the light it felt like it was gonna cut off. The brake pedal is stiff like the car is off. When it's idling is when it's most noticeable. It smoothed out after 2nd gear at like 35mph but still not right. The pedal thing has never happened before but I knew the sputtering was the coils, so I had it scanned and sure enough. 5 codes.random misfire.. random misfire all four cylinders.. so I bought 4 and replaced the old ones.. Changed the Sparks as well. No change.. The cel came back on..still idling rough.. What it could be.
My friend has 2000 12v vr6 auto and recently he experienced his car bogging under acceleration. He had the plugs and wires recently done to solve the problem and the problem went away for a day and has since returned. I scanned it and here are the codes that its threw. After doing some research i'm thinking its the coil pack, since it was pretty foggy/damp today (when the problem started again).
17626.p1218 - fuel injector for cylinder 6 (N84): short to b+
16690.p0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
16684.p0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
I get some bucking under load between 1500 and 3000 rpm. This issue is more noticeable when the engine is warm. When it does this it makes a sound that to me sounds like a misfire from the exhaust, but I've never gotten a misfire code.
Sometimes i get codes p0411 and p0420 (secondary air injection and cat efficiency) but VCDS tests say my cat and o2 sensors are all good.
The car is a 2002 VW Jetta, automatic 1.8t GLS. 146k miles on it. Has an external amp/sub wired up by my brother who is an MECP certified tech and has been doing car audio and overall Audi/VW for years.
I was driving, nothing out of the usual, this car is my daily. Stopped because of traffic and my car died in the middle of traffic, the gauges (tach, speedo, gas, etc) spiked immediately, which I assumed meant loss of electricity, but my radio, headlights and everything else stayed on. The oil and Battery lights came on as well. Tried to start it, it was trying to start, and was cranking quickly, but wouldn't turn over. I got it out of traffic. I pulled my amp power and the car turned over and started driving like normal, so i figured there had been a short in the wire and that was what caused my issue. Drove about a half mile down the road, car shut off again, car said it needed oil this time. checked the oil, there was plenty, but i put more in to be safe, and it turned right over and i managed to drive it about 30 minutes and got it back to my house.
So, my brother and i look the car over, couldn't find anything really wrong with it, so we took it out for a drive, no problem at all for the first few minutes of driving. Car shuts off again, doing the same thing, but just the battery light came on. My brother jumped my car, it turned over, but as i started to drive it, it was a lot more rough with shifting (possibly tied to electrical problems because i know there is a solenoid cluster for automatic transmissions), i mean you could actually hear the gears shifting and the car was kicking through each gear, as well as my driver side headlight not turning on (just installed brand new xantec 6k 55w HIDs, but i dont think those are the problem because the problem started before i installed the HIDs) and died 3 more times before i got it home, having to jump the car every single time with symptoms the same as the first time it died without the oil light. Another thing i noticed is that the car seemed to only die when i hit the brakes and the car went to low RPMs, which lead me to believe a major vacuum leak. At idle the car also seemed like it was misfiring even though the CEL was not flashing, it just had the jerking feeling and sound of misfiring.
My brother and i take a better look into the bay area, and noticed that the top of my engine was covered in oil, from the intake manifold back. I know my car has been leaking oil, but not spraying it. We pulled everything apart, totally cleaned the engine bay area out including MAF, spark plugs, coil packs etc. The engine bay area looked practically brand new. Now i do know that my car has had a vacuum leak (no boost gauge to tell how bad, but the brakes were a little bit less responsive and the car was acting as though it was misfiring despite the fact that the coil packs and spark plugs are brand new) and we couldn't find where it was, and we thought that maybe that was the problem. A lot of the vacuum line was dry rotted and falling apart and some parts weren't even connected anymore from that, which we replaced all of the line we could find to eliminate the idea of a vacuum leak causing the car to die when i hit the brakes. We also tested the battery with a multi-meter which read variably between 13.8-14 V, which if i understand correctly is within normal range, but oddly enough we put the battery through a stress test including turning on defrosted, turning sound system back on, headlights on etc, and the voltage didn't read much different, still bouncing between 13.8-14.
When tearing things apart, we also found that the starter solenoid was unbelievably loose due to a bad transmission mount, and one bolt was missing, so we were thinking that could be arcing causing the problems, but when the solenoid was tightened down, the problems still persisted.
Started the car, let it warm up, and it seemed perfectly fine. I drove it into town without problems, but forgot my wallet at home, so i had to turn around and go back. Almost made it home, the car died while stopping at a stop sign. Tried turning it back over, nothing the first 3 times, let it sit for about 5 minutes and the car turned right over as if nothing was wrong. Died again when i made it into my driveway about 0.5 miles away and the symptoms repeated until the car finally just turns on like normal now, but the idle is at 1100 RPMS (not sure if related or not) even though the car is at the optimal temperature. I tried driving it again after the car starts normally like it does now, but it just repeats the symptoms that it has been, cutting off but leaving the stereo, headlights etc on. I managed to get it back in my driveway.
2001 MK4 GTI VR6 put brand new coil pack, wires and plugs in the car because it was misfiring. Was fine for about a week than I got a clogged cat code and could feel the affects. I now have no cat, no resonator, and no muffler. The car is finally driving good and then the check engine light came back. It says only a misfire in Cylinder #3 and when accelerate hard to speed up my check engine light starts to blink until I stop accelerating hard. So my guess is the clogged cat caused that cylinder to misfire but I do not know the actual solution to this. My EVAP hose is semi-pinched and when u squeeze it you can almost kill the engine. The weirdest thing of all is this: driving normal I shift in between 2000 and 3000 RPM and once i get into 4th gear about 2000 RPM......my car starts shaking badly and i feel like my engine is going to fall out. I have searched and the only thing i can think of is a bad injector...
View 3 RepliesI purchased a 1999.5 Jetta VR6. The guy who owned it said he lost the key, had a new one cut, but not programmed. It started and ran fine with the new key for about 2-4 minutes. He was driving it, it ran perfect, and just shut off. It cranked and never fired.
It's been sitting for maybe a month. I put a brand new battery in it, tried the key. It cranks, will not fire. The sound of it cranking sounds a little off, like low compression or something. Could this be from the key, or does it sound like something else? I'm not sure how an uncoded key would react. I'm towing it to the dealer to have the keys programmed, but I'm trying to think of what else it could be. I was going to check spark or fuel, but I'm not sure what the immobilizer does to make the car not run.