Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 12v VR6 Intake Shifter Rod Noise Won't Go Away
Feb 18, 2014
I recently noticed a rattling coming from my intake manifold and with little research I discovered it was the intake shifter rod. I ordered the new updated bushings and installed them today and the rod continues to rattle just as bad. My car only has 90k and I am unsure what to do to fix the noise. I am hesitant to order a whole new shifter rod because it could be the manifold itself too worn. I am just curious if there is anything that I may have overlooked or if there is anything I can do.
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I'm having a problem with the intake manifold shifter not working on my r32. I've tried all of the normal fixes, the shifter rod itself and the vacuum diaphragm that opens it are both functioning correctly, all of the vacuum lines are new and not leaking. Connecting vacuum directly to the diaphragm causes the shifter to immediately open. I've tried 3 different solenoids with the same result, all open when 12v is directly applied, but the manifold doesn't open at it's RPM point like it's supposed to. The solenoid sees a constant ~11v under all conditions, regardless of engine RPM. I've traced this wire back to the ECU and confirmed it's not damaged. No CEL other than for the SAI missing.
At this point, I'm assuming whatever circuit that controls this in the ECU is fried (cruise control doesn't work either.) I have an extra 24v vr6 (2.8) ECU sitting around which from what I've read uses the same hardware, just a different flash. This may be a stupid question, but if I were to take this to UM to get a performance flash, would I be able to basically overwrite the 2.8 ECU and make this work in the R? Would there be any issues with the immobilizer?
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I have a 2002 jetta 1.8t with unitronic stage 2 ECU and following mods:
ssqv BOV with recirc fitting (so acts like a DV)
3 inch open downpipe
Water/Meth injacetion (-35c washer fluid)
Short ram intake+heat sheild.
Spring loaded wastegate.
So for a while now I could hear a very quiet high pitched sound along with a whoosh sound from the intake at low rpm when the car is cold, after 5-10 minutes of driving the sound changes to where i just hear the wooosh from the intake, no high pitched.
I went out, let my car park for about an hour or 2 in 0c temp. went to drive it,everything is fine, the car just hit 90c. so i floored it, but traction control was on and i have winter tires, so it barley got to 4k rpm. CEL started flashing, no throttle control, really annoying high pitched sound from engine bay with lightest touch of throttle. the trubo was boosting to 22 psi and holding up to 16 PSI at redline before this happened.
The car would struggle to stay at idle, massive vibrations. but after reeving to 2k+ rpm no issue staying at that rpm, no blue/black smoke from exhaust. i scanned it and only got misfire codes and this strange code : "17925 - power supply relay for ecu (J271 or J363): electrical malfunction"
I had to clear the codes 3-4 times and restart the car 3 times for the power supply relay code to go away. but all the misfires, the high pitched sound stayed. it would misfire while driving, then stop, and then again.
I also logged with VCDS, and flooring it from 2k rpm to 2.6k rpm resulted in 0 extra boost over idle (idle boost was 980mbar).
Is my turbo blown 100% because of that sound, or could it be something else causing the "dentist drill" sound? And what about the power relay issue for ECU, could this cause any of the symptoms?
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It makes a weird 'fppp' air shooting noise before the exhaust note and my 2003 gti vr6 makes the exact same noise. It sounds like it's coming from the intake manifold valve and not really the filter, but I'm not sure and yes my filter is clean, the noise also sounds a little bit more obnoxious and problematic in real life. What it is, I thought it was a vacuum leak but I don't wanna bring it in till i know exactly what it is,
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Okay, my shifter rod got spun, and now it doesn't want to go into any gears. Just freely kinda swirls, and you can't push down. The guy working on the car wants to pull the shift box down and see what is going on. He thinks the shift cable or selector cable is broke.
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The issue with the car is that the tranny won't go into any gear. With clutch in or out. I had very little play left or right or up and down. Not sure what could be wrong. The car has 120k miles and no mods.
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There is only one DIY i can find that is still alive. I have a megan short shifter. Its already half way in. I just don't have any instructions and i am kind of at a loss as to where i go from here. Does this shifter change the way my reverse gear will be engaged? I mean will i need to pull the trigger up to go in reverse or will i still push down? Does the spring that came with the kit go under the sleeve or above it? Sounds confusing.
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I have the 20th anniversary GTI with the 6-speed manual at 90k miles
I have the Dieselgeek Short shifter installed so for the most part my shifter is nice and tight/precise. However, I have some play in the shifter while it is in gear and I understand that this is normal for a car as it ages. But I assumed that the Dieselgeek would've solved all the gear slop in my shifter, and I was wrong.
So is there a part I can replace to tighten it back up?
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When the car is in gear it's great! Or at least it seems great. However, trying to place the Shift Lever in the car into the gear "slots?" is troublesome.
It feels as though there is a wall in the way for each gear, and i have to force my way through the wall. It's not absolutely Terrible, for i've been driving like this for months. But i want a smother shift! I want to be able to just slide the Shift Lever into gear without any hangups or major resistance.
Double Clutching seems to work, however it might just be from the small loss of RPMs through the process of double clutching.
Personally I would rather not have to double clutch just to see a slight improvement. I have big feet and they constantly are rubbing on the floor mat as well as the plastic above the pedals, so double clutching always feels like i'm wedging my foot into a hole, then back out and in, before i can go into another gear lol.
The problem is only a real issue when i'm in higher RPMs giving the car more gas. I.E. after a fast launch in first, shifting even around 5500 puts a WALL up on second gear making it impossible for me to get it into second gear, after not getting it into second i usually throw it in third, and essentially lose all the acceleration i had from the first gear launch.
As well is there anyway to make the clutch a little stiffer? She grabs fine, i just like stiffer clutch, it requires less of me trying to wedge my huge foot on the pedal.
It's an un-molested MKIV Jetta VR6 with 167k.
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My problem is that it pops out of 3rd gear when I let off the gas. I have had this problem before so any tips on setting my shifter linkage?
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I only removed the standard air filter housing and fresh air intake yesterday to get access to the VSS and Speedo drive to change the differential fluid on my 01M transmission. I was surprised to find that there was a fine metal mesh screen installed at the entrance to this air intake tube. This would be located behind the battery and just behind the drivers side headlight is where this metal mesh screen is located. Anyways, this was easily disassembled to clean and reassemble. However, I did not find anything about this mesh screen in my Chilton's manual, but this is now on my annual maintenance list. I added some pic's to show the clogged air tube. There was also a spring loaded door on this air intake tube...
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My03 GLI will not engage first or second gear.
This morning, i was having some issues getting the car in reverse, but it eventually engaged and is fine now. I drove to the barbershop, and on the way home, the shifter stopped engaging 1st or 2nd gear. it moves freely into position (TOO FREELY) and all other gears will engage. common sense tells me that the clutch is fine and the problem is with the shifter.
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I have an 01 Jetta, 2.0L, 5 Speed manual transmission.
The issue seems to be that the shifter wont shift the transmission "all the way" into 1st, 3rd, and 5th gear. When I shift into the gears that are forward on the shifter, it will go into gear, but then the shifter (in the car) moves back toward neutral a little. I can drive in 1st no problem, but in 3rd and 5th some weird stuff happens...
While driving, when I shift from second to third I have to keep my hand on the shifter otherwise I get kicked out of gear. Also, when I drive on the highway, I periodically get kicked out of 5th gear if I don't keep my hand on the shifter (usually, when I let off the gas).
Anyway, being that I've fixed many problems on many cars by searching forums and google, I spent the last few days trying to figure out the problem by looking through the forums, but I have yet to find a solution. I tried adjusting the shift linkage using the method described in the dieselgeek video on youtube [URL] ...., but it didn't work. I'm pretty certain it's not the shifter bushings because i have almost no play in the shifter in neutral.
I had someone cycle through the gears while I watched under the hood, and its clear that the cable that controls the forward and back part of the shifting is not pulling back far enough on the counterweight on the transmission. (When shifting into 1st, 3rd, and 5th.) When the shifter puts the tranny into these gears I can still move the counterweight on the tranny further than the shifter will pull in in the same direction.I tried adjusting the linkage to compensate for this, but the cable is as far into the cable end as it will go...
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I have a 5 speed 01 wolfsburg. I was about to leave my driveway tonight and went to shift into 1st and the shifter was all loose. I could not shift into any gear, the shifter was just flopping around. Earlier in the day the neutral jiggle was much looser than it usually is, which I thought was peculiar.... So I guess that was it breaking.
Question is: how do I fix it? I looked under the hood and all of the linkage to the transmission looks good, I think it has disconnected/broken under the shift knob... I've looked around online and cant find anything for this year... or replacement parts for that matter.
I guess im going to have to get the car up on jacks and remove the heat shield to get to the bottom side?
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I'm having an issue with my clutch and I'm really in a hole. Two days ago I was driving my car and everything was fine. Later in the day the shifter got stuck and would not budge out of 5th gear. Eventually it popped out. Driving like normal again and then yesterday I was on my way home from work and all hell broke loose. I was a mile away from my house and the car would not shift into any gear without a fight.
I also at this time lost my clutch pedal. It went really soft but did come back up.. it would not engage however. Limped it the rest of the way home and took a look at it. What I came across was a full brake/clutch reservoir, no leaks around the slave, and I didn't see any leaks around the master. I will say that after the car sat for about 10 mins the pedal felt normal again but quickly went soft after a few pumps.
2.0 AEG 5spd. Trans code DZQ if any of that would be relevant..
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Looking at my circle track car when they told me my air intake temperature sensor was missing this is a picture online I found: [URL] ....
The hole is filled with a bolt and some epoxy. I don't see where the cable is for it. What will this do to my car? It is a track only car.
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I have my GTi, a week ago I broke an axle. I was then convinced by friends the clutch went out. So I said screw it and bought a Southbend Stage 2 Daily. When I get it I go to install it, then find out I have a Broken half shaft. So after taking the tranny out to install the clutch anyways and everything goes alright for the most part. (250k miles so that's why I never returned new clutch)
SO I get everything together. Tires spins. Car goes all is good.
Clutch is super spongy as I need to bleed it. But my problem is the shifter knob is super sloppy. Feels like is a whole section lower. It's hard to engage second as I have to double tap it in with a good throw. Everything is right on the shift tower. And seems like it clicks right into all the gears. But the physical knob feels super sloppy and out of place. First, third and 5th are all super far up and seems like it double clicks after putting it into gear. Like if there was a gear above. Kinda weird to explain. I've done the home alignment on the tower and nob, but only have a bolt that was 4.71 mm. So the cables should be really close to being aligned right. But I can't grab second at high Rpms.
I also need to do my drain and fill. So would it be a drain and fill and clutch bleeding will fix my sloppy shifter? Before I did everything it was tight. Felt right.
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I have a 2000 Golf GLS which I tried to replace the shifter solenoids on and since I replaced them it shifts very very incorrectly it almost feels as if it starts in 4th gear and works its way to 1st.
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2000 VR6 automatic. Yesterday my car was stuck in park couldn't move the shifter . Figured it was the brake sensor switch when the brake is engaged food pedal lights do not go out, I replaced it this morning but still won't work I've been driving it around in limp mode?
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I have a 2004 2.0L Jetta with a 5 Speed manual transmission.
When shifting into third gear sometimes I push the shifter forward and it does not want to move all the way forward. It feels like I am pushing the shifter knob against a wall, or more accurately the bottom of the shift that pulls the cables feels like it is hitting a wall. If I pull it back out and press it in hard it will go into place sometimes.
This also solves the problem: While the shifter is mid shift into third, at the wall/ at the point of resistance, I let off the clutch slightly to give the flywheel some friction. This rolls the transmission a bit and allows third gear to slide into place.
I have experience with a MK4 Audi TT 1.8T that cam with a 6-SPD and it at had a 1-2 and 2-3 synchronizer issue (The one where the nipples are worn and it grinds at higher RPMS because they can no longer make a firm handshake). The issue I am experiencing is not that.
Could it be the transmission cables? Could it be some other cogs in the transmission? - If so does this mean I need to buy a used one? My car has 180K miles on it with the original clutch.
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So I just got 42dd shifter bushings and im having some issues!
Installation was no problem but once you complete the install you are supposed to re-adjust the linkage. First you have to lock the shifter in place, both in the cabin and in the engine bay (as shown in this Diesel Geek video: [URL] .... )
The only trouble I'm having is that i cannot locate the locking pin as shown in this integrated engineering picture: [URL] .....
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