Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 12v VR6 GTI - No Power / Zero Back Pressure Until Hit About 3500 RPM
Oct 27, 2015
It feels like I have zero back pressure until I hit about 3500rpm. The car kind of struggles and chugs a bit until it hits the power band and then it takes off like everything is normal...
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I own a 2001 Jetta GLX 12v VR6, lately the car has not been running well. It chokes the power past 3500 rpm's and will continue running poorly and sound sort of like a Subaru boxer engine. Sometimes it corrects itself and runs okay but goes back and forth.
I ran the codes on VAG COM:
6 faults found:
17551 - Load calculation cross check
P1143 - 35 - 10 upper limit exceeded - intermittent
16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (g61)
P0328 - 35 - 10 Signal too high - intermittent
[Code] .....
I ran VAG COM a couple of days before these codes came up and I had a different code dealing with air/fuel mixture, something about fuel running to rich. I'm stumped.
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One of the high-pressure lines on the back of the rack, close to the exhaust, has rotted out. It was smoking as it leaked right under the exhaust pipe and burned off. The rest of the freshly filled fluid was all over the ground. I crawled under and got a good look at the high pressure line, but where to source these, and if they are even replaceable? I have not tried to remove it yet, but perhaps a shop could bend a new one as a cheap alternative to a new rack. I was also thinking of checking out the pick n pull for a line.
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So I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t. Recently I noticed an issue with the brakes. It is a rare occurrence that this issue happens. Maybe 1 out 6 times I slowly stop the brake pedal seems to put pressure back against me applying brake pressure and makes somewhat of a grinding noise and the brakes don't seem to grab as well. But a split second later the brakes return to normal and grab as expected. Could it possibly be air in the brake lines or something totally different?
- Front brakes are in excellent condition.
- Just replaced the driver side front abs sensor and put new rear brakes and rotors on.
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My 1.8t motor is still ticking around 2500-3500rpm. I have changed the oil with 5w-40 mobil1 no even 75 miles on oil change, Brand new oil pump with tensioner and chain. oil pick up tube cleaned and good. new plugs about 75 miles on them as well. Always ran 93 octane (highest I can get at my gas station) Only thing left that I can think of is my cam tensioner is bad.
When I accelerate up to speed it starts ticking but as soon as I let off the throttle it will stop get back on the gas it starts again.
Stockish 2000 gti 1.8t 5 speed. short ram intake.
Is there a way to tell if the cam tensioner is bad? .
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I lamented in the past a lot of vibrations when the engine was at 3500RPM (in any gear). I read on the forums and many people blamed the aftermarket "EMPI" axles that I mounted too. In fact, my OEM outer CV joints where seized inside the hub/spindle and one of the inner CV joints was clicking; the boots were all worn. This was the reason I went with aftermarket axles. Anyway, I rebuilt the OEM axles by keeping the shaft only, and getting good quality inner and outer CV joints. I finished today to swap back the OEM axles and, finally, no more vibrations!
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So,I have a mk4 GTI vr6 . I've got an idle that moves about 25 rmps up and down. As well as the throttle hesitation between 2.000 and 3500 rpms only at mid throttle. Has a kinda new maf. That I cleaned. clean THrottle body kinda new coil pack and wires , new plugs. Tried a lot it all worked but it's still there.
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My vr6 some times loses its power but it's weird because the check engine light does not appear. It does for like 30 seconds then it goes back to driving normally.
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I have a really small leak coming from the lower end of my power steering hose, it's super small, I was wondering if I could fix this by wiping it down really well and dry, and then layering it with plasti-dip. I think the leak is small/slow enough for me to get in a few good layers. Would this be an okay fix, or would the plasti-dip separate fast?
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I have question about power steering pressure switch in golf 4 1.8t
Idle go high to 2000 rpm .. when i plug-off the Power Steering Pressure Switch its go fine .. i want know is this " Power Steering Pressure Switch " effect stability in high ?
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I have a 3.6 4motion and recently after i started it up just now too, it made a diesel like weird sound, and the RPM revved up to like 3500 then went back to idling.
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There is a noticeable whining sound coming from the back of my car. I searched and the closest thread I could find talks about whining at speed, but this is happening even at idle. From outside the car it is much louder. It goes away sometimes, but comes back pretty quickly. I restarted the car at a red light and the noise stopped, but by the next light it was back. Seems to be happening at speed, too, although that's harder to hear over the sound of the car.
Pulled codes, and the code P310b keeps coming back, even after cleared. The car has had a dead battery for probably the last 6 weeks, and was restarted two days ago, maybe 100-150 miles since restart, plenty of warm up and cool down cycles, but the code keeps coming back. I never noticed the sound before I let the car sit, and I didn't notice it yesterday while I was driving it around (although maybe I just had the music too loud???)
APR Stage 3, APR LPFP.
1- Does is sound like this could be the low pressure fuel pump?
2- Do I need to be concerned?
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I have a 1.8t and it has the dreadful low pressure issue, not quite sure if I have sludge or not but i've run some sea foam through it earlier to clean (I'm aware that sea foam is a solvent) and am going to drop the pan, clean it out and replace the pump and pickup and take care of all of it in one go. I plan on using the felpro 2.slow gasket instead of gasket sealant but my question is, how do I remove the tension off of the oil pump chain to remove the pump? i'm pretty new to Volkswagens so don't be to rough.
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Just a heads up to all MKIV GTI owners out there, new and old. If you feel like the tension on your clutch pedal is deteriorating get it checked earlier rather than later. Because if the slave cylinder malfunctions and leaks you will be faced with a big repair bill due to the fact that the slave cylinder is located inside the tranny. Secondly because of this design, which I think is very stupid, it leaks onto the clutch assembly and can get on your clutch plate. At that point you should replace the clutch plate to prevent any further damage that might be caused by slippage. The clutch plate should not come in contact with any fluids or it will compromise the functionality.
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I just had my turbo and the EBPV on the pedestal rebuilt. Now I need to put it back into the truck. What is the procedure, if any, to adjust the EBPV? I only use the truck to haul a 5th wheel RV and the performance chip closes the EBP valve when going down steep hills -( EXHAUST BRAKE)
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Well, I was cruising down the highway @70MPH and notice the fuel pressure gauge dropped down to 50 then back to 65. Kept watching the gauge and it would swing back and forth from 55 to 65.
Got off the highway. Nailed it at the light and watched the gauge drop to 53 and swing back to 65. Fuel pressure is not steady either. It swings back and forth from 52 to 65. Thinking the pump is on its her last legs? Truck got 194K on her.
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So I have a non ebpv pedestal I was going to clean my sensor on the front because my mileage has went down a bit. My question is is this even worth doing since the valve is not there anymore I have got mixed answers trying to look it up some say it still affects the mileage some say it won't. I cleaned it once about 10 years ago. I have an AE also how do I test it and what should it read if I do need to clean it or replace it?
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the oil pressure light comes on for a year now I will pop on, on hot days, when I go into low rpm like coming off the high way or stuck in traffic. I changed the op switch and put 10w40 in with no luck.
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Not sure what's up with my car at the moment guys, but it seems. Whenever I go above about 55mph it feels as if the car is sliding back and forth. Its most noticeable at about 65mph where you can see the speedometer nudge backwards and forwards maybe 2/3mph at a time. I'm not sure if the engine is doing this but it does feel like it stops the starts then stop and starts etc. I'd say its also more noticeable in cruise control also. Car is an automatic 2.0L engine ...
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stop oil pressure light will come on at 1800 to 2000 rmp i just changed the oil to full synthetic now i see the oil light come on at 3000 rpm i changed the oil pump and sending unit and the car sounds good no rattles what could be the problem ?? its been doing this for 2 years now
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So I'm having some problems with the oil pressure warning light beeping at me. First time it came on I stopped immeadietly, checked the oil and it was fine. (I just changed it when I got it) so I started it up again and it was fine for a few days. Then it came on again Real quick then went off. Now it comes on once or twice every trIp. I've replaced the switch already but it was still coming on so I installed an oil pressure gauge and I've confirmed my suspicions that the engine is indeed not loosing pressure. It sits at about 30ish at idle and goes up to aboit 50to 60 while driving 2-3k rpm. Yet the Damn oil light keeps blIbking. I'm assuming it has a wiring problem. Is there a way to shut this up or do I have to trace wires til I find the prob
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