Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 1.8t - Oil Leak / Drip Coming From Drain Bolt
Aug 5, 2015
So i noticed i am leaking oil, not much but enought that i will have to top it up before the next oil change. The drip comes from the drain bolt, and drips off the bottom of the oil pan right under it. I have replaced the bolt and it still continues to leak. What could be the cause of this?
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Brief back story, a year ago my timing belt went and had to replace the cylinder head and all associated parts. No problems since then, until now. Recently the check engine has come on, and got the code for an exhaust leak. Can't remember the exact code number, but the leak wasn't causing a lean condition or causing the engine to act weird so I left it until I had to time to find the leak. On the way home today I noticed an exhaust leak that got increasingly worse to the point where at a stop light I'd go to accelerate and it would pull away very sluggishly. Got home, opened the hood and tracked down the exhaust leak to somewhere around the manifold/downpipe/turbo area. I took off my cover and noticed what could be a bolt missing, and upon further inspection a bolt that may be coming loose.
Here's what I'm referring to:
- Missing bolt?
- Loose bolt missing bolt?
- Loose bolt?
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Have a 2015 King Ranch with 72k miles. I noticed today a small drip of coolant coming from the corner of the radiator near the drain valve.
The truck is deleted however before it was deleted I did purchase an extended warranty through Flood Ford. What are the chances they will deny a warranty claim on this because of the dpf and egr delete?
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On my 1.8t jetta she is leaking coolant slowly. Just started when it got cold out. It is dripping down the oil pan right down the center. It is falling off the oil drain plug. Was reading that it could be the water pump leaking but then it wouldn't be in the center of the pan. Got it jacked up now so here are some pics.
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How common is it for the hpop to leak from the round piece behind the pump next to the drain bolt? Its on a 2000 f350 7.3.
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I have noticed that I have been getting some drip spots under my car whenever I am parked. This has only started happening in the summer. I got under there and dabbed my finger in the discharge and found it to be odorless, clear, and not viscous. Basically, I think it is just water. Could this just be condensation from the A/C system? It has been dripping under the passenger side right under the firewall.
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About two weeks ago I changed the haldex fluid at 61K. I just drained the fluid and then filled it with the new stuff from the tube. I did not open the check plug. (I changed the fluid and filter at 40k and didn't open the check plug then either.)
Early this week I noticed a wet spot on the garage floor. There was a fluid drip coming out of the rubber stopper near the rear driver side jacking point. Last night I pulled the rubber plug and cleaned the fluid residue as much as possible. Today, I drove the car to work and put a clean white frisbee under the car to catch any drips. There were just a few drips in the frisbee at the end of the day. I compared the drip to the haldex fluid that was drained out a couple of weeks ago. It appears to be the same, but I'm not sure.
I'm dreading what it might mean if the haldex system is leaking, and I don't want to drive the car with low fluid. So I jacked the car up on all four corners, opened the check plug and a 1-2 ounces of fluid drizzled out. From what I can tell by the wet spots on the garage floor, less than an ounce has dripped out so far. (Also, I started the car and put it into 1st gear and all four wheels spun...so at least I know the haldex is still working.)
If the system had too much fluid, could it have blown a seal someplace..
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My son was driving his 2001 jetty vr6 2.8 he said he heard a pop and then coolant was pouring out underneath. Radiator and hoses look fine reservoir too.it pours out as fast as you put it in. When underneath it looks like it's coming from an area to the right of the oil filter towards the belt side but not ask the way over by the belts more like the middle of the engine. I can't see anything from above just dripping from below. I am hoping not a head. Oil look good no coolant in it and doesn't smoke.???
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So I did the seafoam trick and I came to the conculsion that my exhaust leak is coming from either the manifold or the flex pipe. There was no smoke coming from under the car only a mist of smoking coming up from the back of the engine, probably by the manifold or the flex pipe. I do not see any visible cracking per say. I have attached a picture of the end of the flex pipe and it almost looks like someone may have tried to seal it before? I don't know if that is normal or not as seen in the picture.
2002 Volkswagen Golf 2.0 ...
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I've experienced a fuel leak, I've checked all over, and the only thing I've came up with so far, was maybe its coming from the banjo bolt going into the front of the driver side head.. I cant really get to it good enough to tell though..
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I had my 10k service done at the dealership earlier this year, currently at 16.5K miles. My GTI was parked at my parents' garage for a week while I was away for travel. When I returned and went to move my car, I noticed a puddle of oil under the GTI. Since it was a sunday, there were no dealership service departments open, so I went to a quick change oil place and they told me that there is a leak at the drain plug. The tech noticed the oil was low, drained the oil and replaced the drain plug, and when they filled the oil, it immediately started leaking at the drain plug. They added teflon tape to temporarily work with the leak. I will be scheduling a service appointment at the dealer I had my 10k service done.
Have a MK6 and experienced a leak at the drain plug? Could this leak be due to the dealership service tech over tightening the drain plug at my 10k service? The quick oil change place did note that I came in with a leak from the drain plug, in case the dealership tries to blame the oil change place for the leak.
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2004 Jetta GLI 2.8 ... Tonight I started getting a coolant leak somewhere on passenger side. There is also a loud noticeable ticking coming from that area but it is NOT the engine. Slow steady tick, just to the left of engine (when looking head on). Car also began to overheat. Coolant reservoir is full, too flow to be honest, but I don't see any leaks from there. No check engine light is on. Car does NOT leak coolant when off. Only when running and putting load on engine. At idle I cannot see any leakage. Thoughts? I'm thinking perhaps water pump? 87k on the car. Original pump from what I can tell. Bought the car a week ago.
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I have a really small leak coming from the lower end of my power steering hose, it's super small, I was wondering if I could fix this by wiping it down really well and dry, and then layering it with plasti-dip. I think the leak is small/slow enough for me to get in a few good layers. Would this be an okay fix, or would the plasti-dip separate fast?
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Looking for ccess to a '13 Toyota Factory Service Manual (FSM) that states the torque specification for the oil pan drain bolt on the 3.5L?
If the '13 FSM is similar to the '05 FSM, the torque value will appear on the diagram that shows the oil pan assembly. I believe the spec is 30 ft-lbs (with a new washer), but I want to confirm.
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1990 Celica GT ... I will be completely replacing the transmission, and the flywheel while adding a new stage 2 clutch kit. Also replacing the shocks all around.
Okay now to the problem, I don't know exactly where or what fluid or fluids it is yet. it seems to be leaking oil from the oil pan drain bolt also it seems to be leaking coolant too from somewhere behind the oil catch pan area. I did not change the water pump when the timing belt snapped but it looks like some water corrosion on the pump itself. are these common problems and what will solve these leaks?
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I have an 09 f350 lariat with the factory 6 disc, sync system. Problem is the sunroof drain tube on the right front kinked and allowed water to overflow the drip tray on the sunroof and down the "A" pillar. The water then dripped onto the inertia fuel pump switch and then onto the sync module. I disassembled the module to dry and coat the circuit board with dielectric spray but one of the transistors is corroded and therefore the module is rendered useless. I have contacted the ford dealer for replacement module but no luck, even with the original part number on the sync module, or as ford calls it " Accessory Protocol Interface Module" My question is: can I get a module from another vehicle.
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I'm in the middle of replacing my VC gasket and while I was removing one of the hex bolts that holds it in it started sparking like crazy and turned the tip of the hex wrench glowing red. It didn't do this for the first bolt I took out. I also forgot to disconnect the battery before I started, could that have had anything to do with it?
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While changing the oil on my car I noticed that a bolt was missing from the steering or suspension assembly (not really sure what its for. I was wondering what it is for and how important it is. I went to the store to get a replacement and found that the threads in the hole have all rusted out so I can't get a new bolt in. Is this something I should definitely fix before driving again or is it not too serious.
Here is link for the pictures: [URL] ....
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The other day when i wanted to start the car, I found out my battery was death so i decided to ask my buddy to push me and crank it on gear. Car shakes as normal and engine started, but then i heard a weird noise like if something was rubbing. I turned it off and popped the hood. I found my engine leaning forward and toward the passenger side.
So the next morning, I checked the bay again and i found out that it wasn't the motor mount. Motor mount is ok, but then i found a broken bolt that holds the bracket to the block; the one that goes right next to the water pump to be more specific. Also in the back of the block there is a bolt that hold bracket to the block again and the thread whole was enough weak to break when the other bolt failed. So I did some research and i found that there is a solution for the bolt in back of the block.
What I am concerned is for the on the goes right next to the water pump. It seems that it broke the whole thing including the part where the bolt threads go. I just had a shop install I.E connecting rods, new piston rings, and rebuilt the heads. They put a new timing belt kit and all its job required. I think they might have a bit of fault on this since it had to be removed when they did the timing belt kit. Anyways I don't want to think my block will be a junk now because engine is running like a champ, and that would be a bummer.
-Bolt that is broken in two pieces.-
-And where it is attached to the block-
-Part of the engine where this all goes.-
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In the past week, my car battery has died twice (Sunday morning after sitting for 45min and Friday night after sitting for all day). The car (2003 Jetta) immediately came back to life once the jumper cables were attached to another car. I've had the battery and alternator checked twice both with good results. I've checked for a drain on the battery while the car is off, and I'm getting 20mA. So everything seems to be fine. Why the battery could have died twice? Is it possible that something is turning on at random and sucking the power out of the battery?
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My 2003 Jetta sunroof drains aren't clogged. Nor are they simply cracked. They don't seem to be connected. I tried snaking them out with trimmer line- the thing took like 15 ft of line without resistance, from either end. I suspect they had a mechanic who tried to use compressed air to blow them out, and may have blow the line off its nipple instead.
So I can't install a new, smaller line inside the old one. There's no way to fish the line from one end to the other.
I'm doing the headliner anyways. I can replace them, but I need to know what type of tubing is actually used. Plus, how that tubing would go down the A-pillars and meet up with the rubber nipple? Can that thing be pulled out from the outside of the door jamb?
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