Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 1.8t - Loss Of Boost After Forge Splitter Installed
Mar 22, 2015
Just today I noticed my car boosting to around 1.2bar instead of the usual 1.4bar. The car is boosting to around 1.2 then dropping off to around a bar.
The only thing that I did was install a forge splitter. I presumed that the splitter valve was the issue and promptly put my 007p back on but still had the same issue.
During the process of adjusting the splitter valve I got limp mode several times. I much prefer the 007p and will be keeping that and selling the splitter. What may have happened?
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So the other day I replaced my N75 valve and upgraded my DV to the Forge 007. For some reason the turbo doesn't spool like it did before, it's lost it's pep.
I've tried the Yellow and Green springs, also I tried them with the shim too. No luck. The car got turbo back exhaust, intake, and stage one program.
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Looking to have it installed? I bought it but I haven't installed it yet...
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I recently installed a k04 turbo, when I try and accelerate hard my wastegate just seems to open up very quickly without building much boost. I don't have a boost gauge or anything like that installed. Do I start by adjusting the wastegate actuator, or install MBC. Pretty new to this still.
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I have a touchscreen that the dealership provided me but with the catch that I've got to install it myself, pretty sure it has something to do with the state the previous stereo was taken out, all I'm left with are a cluster of wires none of which I know are for what.
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So I installed a Forge Wintake yesterday and my car responded well to it yesterday. Everything was working great and then on my way to work this morning a CEL turned on and it is misfiring on at least one cylinder. I checked all of the connections to my coils, the MAF and my First O2 sensor. Everything looks fine. My Car is a 2012 GTI. I also have a APR stage 2 flash and a Raceland Catless down pipe.
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I finished installing an auto out of a 1999 beetle into my 2000 golf. I used the beetle TCM now it wont shift out of 3rd. If I manually start in first it will shift up to 3rd but nothing past 3rd. I had it scanned with a generic scanner and these are the codes. P1780, P1783, P0725. I researched the heck out of this and I'm not sure what to do. Do I need to take it and have a vag com hooked up to make sure the ecm and the new tcm are talking? It seems others have had these issues and I thought it might be solenoids but that's not what's coming up.
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Okay just installed a newer 24v into my existing 24v VR6 GTI both with 135k. I have heard the motor run before it was pulled and sold to which sounded fine. Upon receiving the motor I put new timing chains, guides, headgasket and new gaskets all around. The timing was right on the mark and I tightened everything up to torque spec and I'm getting this noise which sounds like it's from the timing cover area. A code just popped on which I'm going to scan as soon as I get my hands on one. The car was running great for about 20 minute and I shut it off then turned it back on about 5 minutes later and experiencing these scary noises. I tried pulling each individual coil with no results to get the noise away. What could this be?
[URL] .....
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99 Jetta, installed a new AC compressor a month ago, has been working great, not clutch will engage for a few moments, then turn off for a minute, then engage again. Seems, like there is Freon in there by the gauge on the low side.
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Last Saturday, my mechanic friend and I spent the day installing WRD coils on my 2003 Wolfsburg edition Jetta. Took us longer than we thought but we got it all done and we set them at 3/4 max for lowness. I don't want to go any lower and I will probably raise a little bit soon.
Anyways, when I started driving I noticed a rear clunking sound, it's especially noticeable at slower speeds. Every single tiny little bump and sounds like someone is dropping boxes in my trunk. I checked my trunk and took everything out and that still didn't work. When my car is stationary and I get out and push on the rear to test the shocks I hear the sound.
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After installing a new crank position sensor on my 05 GTI 1.8T would I have to recalibrate my ECM, my car will not start.
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my car into VAG COM and since then it hasn't boosted past 4 lbs. it has Revo stg 2, K04, aftermarket side mount, full exhaust and a couple other bolt ons. Before the car was spiking at around 23/24 lbs. after pressure testing the system I found that the turbo inlet pipe was lose, so I tightened it. Still no change. I tried holding the battery terminals together for 10 minutes to reset the ecu and I also tried clearing the codes through a handheld code reader. No codes even come up anyways for this. The car is a 1.8T.
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So my 2001 1.8t Golf is having some issues holding boost. I have a Gonzo stage 2 tune, CTS FMIC, Forge 008 Diverter, Silicone inlet and MagnaFlow Exhaust. I've also done the whole Evap, SAI delete and installed a catch can.
Starting in 2nd or 3rd at WOT the car spikes up to 18psi and then progressively loses boost throughout the rev range. Close to redline the boost drops to 5 psi or so. It seems to be dependent on the revs. In fifth gear the car holds 18 psi much longer as the revs don't increase as fast.
There are no CELs. I've done multiple leak tests starting at the air box and plugging the pcv/catch can system as well as at the compressor side of the turbo. None of the tests revealed a leak anywhere in the intake system. However, when I stuck my ear very close to the valve cover I could hear what sounded like a very small air leak coming from inside the valve cover. I took a look at the wastegate actuator and it seemed fine, no play in the rod, no loose bolts and to move it just requires enough force to compress the spring and it returned to its original position.
My thoughts are that it could be a fueling issue or turbo in the process of dying maybe.
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Just noticed today that I have a slight drop in boost. Normal boost is 1.5 bar but today it is running slightly lower boost and does not have the same pull through all the gears.
2001 mk4 1.9 tdi golf
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I just recently notice a whistling noise when I hit boost. I'm not sure but it sounds like it is coming from my gauge. I'm not losing boost pressure. I do have a glow shift gauge. The most recent install was the TIP which I clamped on to the turbo but I'm wondering if it isn't on tight enough.
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I was riding along today everything running fine then I came to a stop sign and when I pulled off my car wouldn't run 10 psi of boost it was only running 5 psi so I when to a buddys checked everything over and all my piping looked fine so I went up the road and everything was fine so when I started going home it did the same thing pulled of shut the car off pulled off and it was fine again.
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I think my stock DV is going bad, my car makes a weird noise under boost?
1. Only happens when first starting the car after it has been sitting for an hour or a few. (not overnight)
2. Does NOT happen when first start in morning.
3. Goes away after like 5 minutes every time and the normal WHIIISHH sound comes back like it should when I step on the gas.
4. It does not make the sound at idle.
This recording I made was of my car being revved up after it sat for one hour.
[URL] ...
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Replaced my coil packs/sparks, and just got around to changing my N75 valve today. The rough idle issue is gone but now when I go WOT it boosts but goes from 15psi-12-13-12-14-12...etc. I've checked and there are no boost leaks. I do have a CEL saying I need a new bank 1 sensor 1 Oxygen sensor. If it is that, why did this problem arise as soon as I changed the N75 valve and wasn't present earlier?
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I was having an issue with my car not going into boost so I plugged my code reader in and it had 2 codes 1 was p1200 n249 malfunction and the other was diverter valve malfunction so I did the quick easy one and got a new factory diverter valve but it still doesn't go into boost and still reads p1200 n249 what do I need to replace or should I do the n249 bypass it's a bone stock jetta 5 speed.
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I just got done with a complete engine rebuild on my 02 1.8t jetta, had everything hooked back up and went to start it for the first time and it wouldn't. I went back looking for loose connections, nothing. Worked and banged my head for a day or two, I had fuel and spark but couldn't get it to fire. Finally I "choked" the intake to see if it was getting too much air and it fired right up. I unplugged my map sensor giggles and it starts up perfectly. I then hooked everything back up and what do you know it starts up and runs fine, but if I plug the sensor back in it kills the motor after about 10 seconds of running and won't start until I unplug the map again.
Car runs and drives but wont boost over wg pressure but that's probably because sensor itself is unplugged. I just wanna know what could cause it besides the sensor itself being bad. I ordered a new one waiting for it to get here (hoping it fixes the problem).. And I'm talking map (manifold absolute pressure) not maf (mass air flow), just in case people are confused.
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I got a Mk7 in October and my Mk4 has unfortunately been parked since. I started it and let it idle to warm once a week or so when I went on Vacation for 10 days. Before going on vacation I moved the car and after warming up everything seemed to be normal. Unfortunately I neglected it once I got back and haven't started it since the beginning of December. I'm selling it here soon and so went out to spruce her up tonight and upon trying to start the battery was dead so a buddy came over and jumped it.
It started right up but immediately was idling funny which I assumed was because of the cold (it's 25 degrees F tonight and has gotten in the negatives in the past few weeks due to snow storms). I shut it down and checked the fluids which were all pretty low especially the oil due to a small leak. So I topped off the all the fluids and started it again and let it idle to full warm.
I decided to take it for a drive around the block and it was still driving pretty rough, no knocking or anything but the engine was "sputtering" and the CEL was on and flashed when I gave it gas. I'm running stock boost so my gauge usually reads around 12psi but is now only going up to 3-5 psi and the vacuum is only at -15 which i think used to idle at -20. I drove it to the gas station and filled it up from a little less than a half tank but it's still running the same and there's a slight burning smell from the exhaust.
I was worried it was my turbo but it was perfectly fine a month ago. I was thinking of throwing some Seafoam or Heat.
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