Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 1.8t - Bogged Down And Misfiring When Go Into High Boost
Feb 11, 2015
I'm having a misfire issue on my 1.8t. When I go into high boost I'm getting bogged down and misfiring.
I plugged in my obd2 adapter and it gave me a misfire on cylinder 3. I since cleared the code to try and see if it was a coil pack by switching it to another cylinder, but now the cel won't come back on although the problem persists.
I have recently changed the plugs and the car was fine. I then added a fuel injector treatment and the misfire started shortly afterwards. (coincidence perhaps). It's frustrating as I can't rule out coil packs as my cel won't come back on and my code reader is not displaying any faults.
I did previously have a cel with something about fuel trim bank 3? I am also sure I have a boost leak as the car whistles pretty loud under boost.
Also worth mentioning I have a bit of white smoke sometimes but I'm not using oil or coolant and they are not mixing either. I'm at the end of my tether with this car and just want to try get it back to normal.
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2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.
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I'm having a strange, very high-pitched, noise that seems to be coming from my turbo or (possibly) somewhere else in the engine bay. It sounds very screechy, and it may be paranoia, but I believe it also may have a slight metallic sound to it.
It all started yesterday after changing the thermostat housing for the third time in 2 days (autozone sold me a faulty, warped, housing that leaked after install). During this repair the engine never overheated (it did however leak fluid and go a little low) and the main point for replacement was a stuck thermostat. After finally getting it fixed I took it for a test drive and noticed the horrid noise after hitting a good amount of boost (no gauge installed). The noise occurs when boosting and doesn't happen when spooling in the 3k-4k range. I had no hint of the noise before this.
There doesn't seem to be any drop in performance and it still pulls hard. Hoping this to be a loose exhaust connection or boost leak. May be spooling sound escaping.
Mods:
- short ram air intake with an aem filter
- 3" turbo-back exhausted
- revo chipped
- 4 bar fpr
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I have a golf mk4 1.8T AGU, about one week after i had my k04-023 turbo on and all the Stuff that comes along it started "stall" (don't know if its the right word??) in the High gears, most 5th gear but it first start doing it when i hit boost (3000rpm)
I runs on Stock n75 valve.. I though i could be a boost problem, maybe the Stock system cant handle it? I did install a boost gauge to see if it was the was the problem, and it dont Seem like it. In first it runs from 1.4 bar and drops to 1.2. Same in second and third. But in 4 and 5th it goes to 1.7 bar and drops to 1.4.. I did wonder it maybe the n75 valve cant handle 1.7 bar??
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I have a VW golf 2.0L AEG with 5 speed manual with 150,000 miles. Lately, it has been hesitating when I accelerate, not all the time but intermittently. It also shakes when I downshift, especially in lower gears. I have replaced the dog bone, the spark plugs, fuel filter, clean the MAF and tried another ignition coil. Nothing really worked. The only that worked a little (like a day) is when I disconnected the MAF sensor. I tried to do it again without much success. I scanned the car with VAG COM and I have no code.
The original clutch and original fuel pump are on the car. I checked the timing belt and it is in good shape. I was thinking that I may need a new clutch but I don't have nay slipping, just the vibrations when I downshift. I thought maybe the motor mounts are bad but I don't see excessive play when I rev up the engine. I sprayed the spark plug wires and ignition coil with water without any issues. What I should do next? Motor mounts or clutch? Bring it to VW for diagnosis?
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So last friday (20th) I got my the APR stage 1 tune put on my car at NGP Aberdeen. On my way out of the shop I started having symptoms that resembled a fouled plug. At the two stop signs I came to my car died.
I turned back to have the fellas at NGP investigate problem. About 20 minutes later the tech that had been problem shooting my issue told me that a boost pipe with a quick connector blew itself off. Something that he had never seen before. I'm on my way home this afternoon and I start getting the same feeling (lack of power and slight bucking/misfiring feeling) I had last week.
It got dark outside before I could take a look, so I'm curious what you all think. Could it be this mysterious boost pipe? If so which one do you think it may be (I already checked the one that goes into the "stage II" pipe, and that one is connected). Also, any thoughts on how to make the quick connector stay with my increased boost? Otherwise, what are the symptoms of a ruined DV?
Current Mods: APR Stg I intake, APR Stg I flash (running 93 oct right now), no other engine mods.
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I am having a recurring problem, My engine keeps misfiring. I have replaced the spark plugs, ignition coils and pcv valve with all new parts and and fixed it for a little bit but now my car is misfiring again, and Im hoping its not the head so need to narrow down what the problem is...
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So leading up to today ive had some bucking under load which felt like misfiring to me. I borrowed my friends VCDS cable, checked MAF, checked o2 sensors, checked cat. They are all good. This problem is constant but i did get a misfire code once (random, cyl 1, 2, and 3). I cleared the code and they never came back.
Today as im driving home from work, the bucking problem was much worse. Then the CEL came on. I just checked the code, and it was system too lean. I cleared the code and now the car will not start. It cranks, shows rpm on VCDS and sputters but doesnt even come close to starting.
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1995.5 Jetta VR6
Misfire cylinder 1 and random misfiring
P300 P301 Vagged it and can't figure it out
Changed the plugs, wires, and coil pack Used and old timing light and getting spark in all wires so can't be the coil pack
Fuel injector, O2 sensor, any other things?
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I recently noticed that my Golf R was making a strange high pitched whine and it seemed like there was no boost. I took my car to the dealer, and it turns out that part of the CAI broke off (a mounting component) and made its way into the turbo, effectively destroying it.
My dealer was initially intending to cover the turbo under warranty (prior to investigation), but now that it is clear that a failure in the CAI caused the issue, they cannot (obviously) cover it under VW warranty. Unitronic CAI failure led to turbo failure.
The serviced manager did some research prior to getting back with me, and was somewhat puzzled since the Unitronic CAI displayed on their website looked slightly different from mine in that the component that failed was not there. The service manager called Unitronic and learned that the failed component was a known issue (it had apparently failed before), and thus they modified the design - hence the picture of the revised version did not match the older version that was installed on my Golf R. The Unitronic rep offered to replace the CAI - but did not mention anything about the failed turbo (when he spoke to the service manager).
I found the following thread which illustrates that this was a known issue: [URL] .... I just wish I had found out about this before it failed.
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Car started to do some weird stuff today. Misfiring under high load, as I get into boost.
Idle is around 1000-1100 RPMs. Cold start is fine, idle is normal in terms of going higher a bit, but then it sits at 1kish. This started last night after the car sat for a couple hours. Totally normal running and driving prior to this.
I've seen all the MKV threads about it that suggest everything from battery, to alternator, to grounds, to vacuum leaks, to intake leaks, to MAF.
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The symptoms are as follows.
-No change in performance, functionality, or spooling.
-Loud intermittent screeching noise when building boost above 3500 RPM
-Can only describe the sound as air escaping from a tiny hole, VERY similar to warn brakes, that kind of screech. The intermittent part I would describe as if you were tapping your brakes (and they were screeching) rapidly, so on off on off very quickly.
-Also happens when I let my foot off the gas (Also above 3500 RPM)
-Car has CTS Turbo Intake, 42DD Downpipe, and APR stage 2 software.
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I am currently stage 2, drive my car kind of aggressive on a regular basis, and now I hear a squeal under high boost, sounds like air escaping. Boost is not acting any different, I've come to the conclusion that the problem is most likely my revision D DV.
-What does failing REV D sound like???
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I have a 2001 golf with a 2.0 AVH engine. I recently replaced the coil-pack and was very pleased that the engine was running better, the only problem was the mpg was still kinda low in the 24-5 range when it used to be 29.
I tried to do a compression test but I didn't prepare properly, I thought you left the coil pack plugged in and the fuel fuse. Now I have a CEL that *was* flashing saying cylinder one is misfiring though it has stopped flashing. I drove it 13 miles home and it did improve but its still running rough. Very reminiscent of when my bad coil pack was still in there, a real lack of power.
So I have to ask, what can I do from here? Have I damaged my coil pack or cylinders? Will this likely go away on its own? Is there anything I should do?
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Is it possible that disconnecting battery causes a misaligned throttle body, which in turn causes the EPC light to come on? And does a misaligned throttle body also cause misfiring cylinders (1 & 2 in this case)?
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I recently bought a 2000 jetta vr6 MK4 and since i have had it its had a misfire problem. So its saying that its misfiring in "cylinder 1" and sometimes when I clear the code it will stay off for the whole day. I did everything I could think of. I replaced all the spark plugs. I replaces the plug wires. Then i bought I new coilpack. and its still misfiring.
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CEL came on and the report says #2 cylinder misfiring. Changed plugs, wires and coil. Last step was to change the #2 fuel injector. I changed the 2nd injector from the left but I'm still getting the same message. I was wondering if maybe they aren't numbered that way. It's a 2004 Jetta with Car engine: 2.0L L4 SOHC 8V. Did I change the wrong injector?
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I'm getting misfiring after the engine is hot, but it only shows up under certain load. For example, if I'm in 3rd gear at about 2500 rpm and I give it some amount of throttle, it wont misfire at all but if I give it just a hair more (maybe past 50% or so), it will start misfiring badly and the blinking CEL comes on. The codes it's triggering are misfire on cyl 1 and multiple misfire.
I replaced the coilpack about 6 months ago, that's why I'm hoping for some feedback before I drop a few hundred dollars on another one. I had the plugs out very recently and they look fine. The shape of the wires are difficult to get multimeter probes on so I haven't checked them.
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my car into VAG COM and since then it hasn't boosted past 4 lbs. it has Revo stg 2, K04, aftermarket side mount, full exhaust and a couple other bolt ons. Before the car was spiking at around 23/24 lbs. after pressure testing the system I found that the turbo inlet pipe was lose, so I tightened it. Still no change. I tried holding the battery terminals together for 10 minutes to reset the ecu and I also tried clearing the codes through a handheld code reader. No codes even come up anyways for this. The car is a 1.8T.
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So I have a 2004 jetta GLI (1.8T) with forge splitter valve and short ram intake. I went and got my codes pulled and all 4 cylinders misfiring and random misfires. I replaced both coil packs and spark plugs. check engine light popped up again after about 20 miles and same thing. I just bought the car so I'm not sure how long it has been running with these misfires. I just got the timing belt replaced. I know it could be off a tooth. (Wouldn't a code pop up though for it?) How could I check that. And I also took my MAF sensor off as well and no change. Heard it could be clogged cat, any way to check? I've also cleaned the throttle body. It runs fine when I'm driving, just a rough idle.
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2002 Jetta 1.8t, auto tranny, 90K miles. Recently took it in and had all coilpacks replaced under VW's recall.
Sometimes when it's been sitting out in cool air for a long time (in Texas summers, this is nights-only), about 3 miles in it suddenly starts misfiring- BAD. Check Engine light comes on. Lasts about 30 sec, then goes away and doesn't come back for the rest of the drive. WTF?? I can't make it happen on queue.
I heard about the all-too-common grounding problem on the engine harness. I did find a significant resistance between the ring terminal on the head and the battery (-). I tied the 3 ground posts under the battery together with 12ga wire and crimped terminals, and ran another 12 ga wire up to the engine block ground right under the ring terminal that grounds the coils, which should have shorted past any weak spot on the harness. PROBLEM STILL OCCURS!
Scans showed:
17766 Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
16682 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
16684 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
17658 Low Fuel light (only ~3 miles after lighting the Low Fuel warning, I don't think the fuel pump's running dry just yet here)
Seems to focus on Coil 2. But last time I did this I got these errors for Coil 3 and swapped it for a new replacement I had in the trunk in case one went out unexpected. Well now it just says Cylinder 2. Just did it again tonight after clearing codes and got these same Cylinder 2 errors again.
Actually I started to wonder... I've been running the tank close to the "low fuel" light to check my actual mpg usage (no display for it in my MK IV), but fill back up a few miles after it lights. I can think of a couple of spots on the late-night drive back that I see this, one's after a hill which might cause a fuel pump to run dry temporarily, but another's a light downhill then up a light offramp. I don't think the tank's been low every time this happened but I'm not sure. Well, a couple of times it's been mostly level in the parking lot anyhow and misfired a bit right off the bat when starting, so probably not.
Wouldn't there be some sort of "low fuel pressure" code if fuel starvation was actually the issue going on? Hmm, I went looking and I'm not sure there is one for a MkIV, there's errors for fuel trim but I don't think you get those in short-term. This is kinda scary how it just goes out while driving, and I can't do much to reproduce it or test out fixes.
So looking further, other people report what may be intermittent fuel pump issues when the tank goes low. But could that result in "Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit"? I mean the coils will still electrically read as firing. Of course if the system gets all glitch-y, the software may be making a mistake somewhere and report this wrongly.
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