the last couple weeks the engine has been running poorly, rough idle .... and sputters until about 4k rpm with a noticeable loss in power. No clue what it is ... it seems to spring up after I got a coolant hose leak on top of the motor.
View 2 RepliesI have been beatingy head against the wall for the last month with this car. It started out by just running really rough and stalling out. Found out that I had a bad clamp on the air intake that attaches to the throttle body. Replace that after I already replaced the MAF. Everything was great till couple days later then the car just crank crank crank no fire....
I cleaned the grounds pulled the plugs and coils, had perfect spark. Put everything back come to find out after going thru my Bentley manuals I jumped around the fuel pump relay fuel pump kicked on perfect started great! Replaced the fuel pump relay BAM! Ran great!!!! For 2 days..... After that right when I pulled into the drive way the car would not start.... So I tried everything again.... To no avail..... Check the codes again, now I'm throwing these codes which yes I did cross reference in my Bentley manual.
P1117- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 short to ground
P1198- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 electrical malfunction
P1472- EVAP emission control LDP circuit short to ground
P1516- Intake manifold changeover valve circuit open
And the dreaded same code I've had the whole time........
P0102- Mass or volume air flow circuit low input.
I have also tried tracking down any bad wires, and testing resistance...
I was driving along the highway cruising at around 100 km/h when out of nowhere the car started driving a little rough so I look down and the ASR (traction control) light was on. I got off the highway, shut it down and fired it back up. The ASR light was off and car running like normal. When I got home I scanned it and these codes came up:
The catalyst code if from my catless turbo-back exhaust which I plan to fix next month with a tune. Anyway I cleared all codes and continued on my way without any other hiccups. So is my MAF sensor dying/dirty? ECU? N75 valve? Boost leak? I'm making a boost leak tester today just to 100% eliminate that variable, though I'm fairly certain I'm good there.
The car is mostly stock except for a few bolt-ons, all of which I've had installed for thousands of kilometers now. Here is what isn't stock, not including suspension, wheels, etc:
Forge 008 diverter valve
034 Motorsports PVC silicone hose kit
Samco boost hose kit
Forge silicone turbo inlet pipe
Eurojet SMIC
custom built 2.5 stainless, catless turbo back
AEM Dryflo short ram intake
GLI MFA cluster
I just replaced my injectors in my 12v vr6 and now having some problems. Mainly having issues with start up. Having to feather the gas to get it to start and still runs rough for a min or two.
View 3 RepliesSo the Jetta started running rough, then stalled after starting. Couldn't drive it home so I had to tow it. Got to the house and read codes. It gave me P0135, P0171, and P0321. I researched and saw that the only code of these three whose symptoms included stalling was P0321, so I replaced the Crankshaft Position sensor. Tried starting it, and it wouldn't start at all. I kept at it for a while thinking it would catch, but after 5 minutes the battery was too low to crank. I tested the old crankshaft sensor, and had resistance of about 900 ohms, so it was in range. For giggles, I pulled the new one and checked it, also in range. I put one of them back in, and proceeded to scratch my head. Charged the battery up, and now not sure what to do. I need to do a very close hose inspection, but there are no obvious tears or breaks.
View 1 RepliesI was coming at the climb, my car hit limp mode twice and later I noticed my CEL was on. I let it sit over night when I got where I was going and started it up today started fine but the CEL came on after it ran idle for about 45 seconds. I check the oil and it was on the low end. What it could be?
I drive a mk4 tdi with a malone tune. I am heading back to the valley tomorrow evening I'm just by kamloops right now. Also what oil should I top it with just so it isn't so low for the return trip? (Always get my oil done at the shop)
Regarding my problem (outline below):
>> Went for a refueling stop, and thereafter proceeded onto the highway
>> Approx. 500m into the drive onto the highway the car started jerking and running rough with an initial puff of smoke (none thereafter)
>> Immediately after this initial jerking/shuddering there was a significant increase in fuel consumption i.e. from a familiar 8.2L/100km to 18L/100km in the cruise
>> We continued driving not knowing what it was (I suspected a spark plug may have stopped working)
>> Pulled up at the gas station to observe what went wrong inside the engine bay - no signs of any leaks, fuel sprays, etc. but only that the engine was shaking
>> I checked the rear of the car while the car was idling and observed a pulsating sound...some light smoke and a fuel-rich egg-like smell
>> Asked around and I was led to think the catalytic converter was ruined, so the next day I had the catalytic converter cut out
>> After removing the catalytic converter the problem persisted...although the engine operated with slightly less flow resistance
Attempt at diagnosing the problem
>> My wife called in a technician from BMW at Canal Walk to come have a look and what errors were flagged
>> The tech ran the diagnostic and no fault codes were indicated, except a few short circuit faults due to my incorrectly placing -ve on +ve when I tried to charge my cars battery with jumper cables
>> He proceeded to ask if we changed the spark plugs, I said yes. He then looked at the oil on the intake manifold and said there could be a torn valve on the intake manifold and that air that is not measured by the air mass flow sensor is entering the engine, which is causing the car to rev hunt (this problem of rev hunting has been with us for a while). The engine also shuts down uncommanded at stops and sometimes between shifting gears with the subsequent loss of power steering (very dangerous!!)
>> We also had the O2 sensor replaced a month before this occurence
The images attached (#1- #3) are marked up to indicate the component I am referring to.
[IMG] FilesImage_1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG] FilesImage_2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG] FilesImage_3.jpg[/IMG]
Went to Cape City VW in Cape Town and the part number for that orange thing/diaphragm is 06A 198 205A 'Repair kit for valve'. Is this significant? The car sounds as strange at idle...as if has noisy valves. I can upload (if there is an option) a sound clip of how the car sounds if this assists.
I have a Jetta Mk IV, yesterday I went to go drive it and just as I pulled out of the driveway it started running rough, so I pulled back in the driveway and the coolant temperature sensor light came on, then the check engine light. and then it died. Then today I tried starting it, and it will only start and run if I have the gas pedal all the way to the floor, and it runs really rough. Then it will die. I thought maybe the coolant temp sensor since the light came on. I replaced that, and it still does it. I'm leaning towards a head gasket.
View 2 RepliesSo my daughter's 2000 Golf Mk4 with 160,000 miles on it was running rough and had 3 codes stored - cylinders 2 & 3 misfire and a 411 secondary air injection problem.
Having had the misfire code before I swapped injectors around and the error code moved cylinders with the injectors so I attempted cleaning them and also cleaned the throttle body and intake manifold. At this point car still running rough but also started smoking badly.
Replaced the following items:
- Spark plugs
- Spark plug wires
- PCV valve
- PCV hose
- Fuel injectors w/ remanufactured
Hose reconnected between secondary air injection pump and air intake - previous owner had duct-taped it in when he couldn't get it to seal I guess. I've never heard it run.
Car running better, idles more smoothly, doesn't stumble or stall like it did before, no error codes coming up BUT car smokes a lot and the fumes make me feel sick just driving it a mile.
The car had never smoked like this before, hasn't had a whole lot of love the last year or two but no real problems either so why the sudden smoke?
At first I assumed it was cleaner being burned off but that should have been gone in under a minute and this is on-going. It's bad enough to not only be embarrassing but apparently dangerous as the fumes are bad.
My golf 2.0 vw isn't doing so good right now. It has 227000 miles on it. It has been driving great, and then last week it started to idle rough. It idles between 600-800 rpms. it fluctuates between 600-800 rpms. It had the check engine light on before this happened i was told by my brother that it was an 02 sensor. I had it checked for what is causing the engine light to come on today at o Rileys, and it came up with 11 codes. Some of the codes where 02 sensors, it was running to rich, needed a new computer, evaps system, fuel pump, fuses, coil pack, spark plugs, It shakes when you sit in it when it is idling like not a bad shake but a small one you cal feel, l'm including a video of it running.
View 6 RepliesMy 2.0 recently had some problems with the coil pack so I replaced it. Now my car hits a "flat spot" when accelerating around 2000 RPM and then another around 2600 RPM. If I am in 3rd gear going about 20MPH and I press the gas about 25-30% it sort of shakes and won't accelerate and when I take my foot off the gas and slowly ease the pedal down it accelerates fine.
My car also runs pretty rough at a cold idle(misfires). When I press the gas it sounds smooth until it gets back to idle. At any temp my car runs really rough with the A/C on. I also hear a rattle/Buzz around my relay panel when the A/C is on. My car is a 1999 2.0 AEG. I don't have VAG-COM just a generic scanner and the last codes I got were:
P0134
P0135
P0141
I replaced both O2 sensors and the beginning of this year and those codes came back right after I did them. I will scan tomorrow and post any new codes.
After putting on a o2 spacer my CEL cleared. I finally got some downtime so I parked the car in the garage to chase electrical gremlins, do the timing belt, and replace the downpipe and catalytic converter. Lately it's been sounding like I have quite the exhaust leak so that spurred me into doing a little quicker. Long story short I got the cat out and after looking inside of it I see this .
The inside of the cat is completely bare, not even a remnant of any form of honeycomb. So was this a hollowed out cat or did everything deteriorate and blowout. I was assuming my cat was clogged because of my rough idle lately... but looks like I was dead wrong.
Now for additional info.
2001 Jetta 2.0 AEG 220K miles
Previously had a CEL for the catylst below threshold
I can't currently check my codes because the OBD2 isn't reading/connecting, but that's not related.
The problems seems to be getting progressively worse, it has a rough idle and when it smooths out is only at about 600 rpms and still sounds strange. Also, I am running extremely rich, blows flames quite often and in OCMD I went 100 miles on a half tank. Car is stage 1 unitonic with sai and evap deleted. I changed the maf and that didn't change anything. I was searching for vacuum leaks yesterday and noticed that one of the vacuum caps I have on the bottom of the intake manifold was dried out so I took it off so i could put my finger over it and see if it ran better, when the cap was off it ran great but when I put my finger over it it would go back to an awful idle Now when I come to a stop it will sometimes drop the rpm so low that it shuts off, when I am driving you can't tell a difference.
View 1 Replies2002.5 VW Jetta GLI VR6 24V 6-Speed. Barely accepts a small can of Freon from full empty, and pressure goes to over 100 psi in the red, compressor does not kick in, idle fluctuates with A/C button on, small fan kicks on fine, some air pump turns on and off with the erratic idle and sounds like shot of compressed air. When I turn the A/C button off, idle comes back to normal and that psss sound is gone. I already changed compressors and that made no difference. Video below.....
View 5 Replies2005 gti 1.8t having really rough idle and misfires at idle fine while driving pulling codes:
P0300
P0301
P0302
P0304
Unplugged MAF and didn't make a difference...
I have a 2003 2.0 gas Jetta (181k miles, automatic.) that won't rev over 3k, starts rough, idles rough and wont stop setting a P0341 cam position sensor code.
The car was not running when I got it, I replaced the coil pack and it ran but not over 3k. Cleared codes, it sets the P0341 immediately.
Had timing belt, water pump, tensioner and cam pos sensor replaced. Still, sets p0341 code, starts rough, idles rough and wont rev over 3k.
The throttle servo makes a little noise when actuated, shop thinks this is my demon - suggests replace throttle body. This car is for my son who will be taking it to college soon.
I have a 2000 jetta 2.0, and the idle seems to rough and when I start the car it seems like I might stall.
View 9 RepliesWhen I first start me car up, doesn't matter the outdoor temperature it idles terrible jumping up and down. When I go to put it in first gear and attempt to pull out it's very jumpy/jerky because of this rough idle. Once I drive a little bit if I stop it will idle fine. This problem seems be slightly worse when it's wet/raining/humid.
Its throwing codes P1128 Manf Control p0300 multiple misfires and then p0301,0302,0303,0304 which is misfire for that individual cylinder. Also my oil light blinks once in awhile, think that could possible be sep issue though.
I changed plugs, the old ones were really white... I believe that means running lean?
Put in new coil/wires
Gas Filter
Mass air flow sensor
Changed 02 sensors
Also did the seafoam treatment, none of it seemed to work...
Though about possibly changing temp sensor next. I hope it has nothing to do with fuel injectors....
2000 Jetta 2.0l 4cy AEGengine
I'm having a little issue with my 03' vr6. I've had the car for almost 2 months now, which it's pretty new to me, since about the time I got it, the car would sometime roughly idle on start, just for a few seconds, maybe for 10-15 seconds, and then it'll go back to idling at 600-800 rpm and being normal.
This has happened maybe 5 times since I've owned the car, and since then I've changed the battery, and cleaned my MAF. The other day when I started my car it (the rough idle on start) lasted for maybe 30 seconds, so it kinda scared me a bit.
Also there is no check engine light. Other than the weird idle on start, the car feels responsive, quick and there doesn't seem to be lack of power. This is the only mk4 gti I've driven fast in, so there may be lack of power and I just don't know it.
I have an 03 vr6. I'm getting codes p0300, 0303, and 0304. I changed the plugs and the coils and still has changed nothing. In the morning when I first go to start the car it has a rough start and idles rough. But after letting it warm up it is fine. It drives perfectly fine, no misfires. None of this started happening until the car ran hot a few weeks ago. Did a compression test and everything came up fine. So would could my issue be? I'm at a loss here. I was thinking fuel issue but if it was a fuel issue, wouldn't it run rough all the time?
View 15 RepliesJust bought a 2.0l 2001 golf four door. the previous owner had the car for only a short time. They claimed the CEL came on and the code was for the MAF. He cleaned it and when I test drove the car there was no light or sign of any issues with how the car ran. Today while figuring out why the alarm kept going off(battery died in key fob and i replaced them), it began idling rough. It had just started to rain as well. From what i could find from older thread is it could still be the MAF, TCV/ISV, or O2 sensor. Is there any good way to diagnose without a vag-com cable. Mine wont update its firmware and i'm screwed at the moment in terms of gathering info on the problem.
View 9 Replies