I replaced both rear calipers, rotors, pads, parking brake cables and it still sticks once in a while. I have played with the adjustment on the console many times, but to no avail. I have to crawl under the back and press the link up to unlock the parking brake. It's only about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch at most. Is there some type of spring I can use so it retracts all the time? I have seen Toyota's with them.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 Elantra GLS. My left rear brake was hanging (wheel was very hot to the touch after driving, while other wheels were not), so I had a friend check the brake pads. We decided to replace the pads and rotors. While doing so, the parking brake seemed stuck in the on position, so I opted to have him disconnect it completely until I could afford to replace it. I had used it for the first time about 2 weeks before I noticed the hot brake problem, so we figured that must have been why the brake was hanging.
My friend replaced the rotors and pads, put some penetrant/lubricant on the piston of the caliper and reassembled the brakes. He did use the special tool to spin the caliper in when putting the pads on, however he didn't know that was necessary and tried to force them in with a C-clamp first.
Now, I seem to have two problems:
1. The left rear brake still hangs sometimes. I will drive the car and when I park it I can feel the heat coming off of the left rear wheel. It is extremely hot, so I know the brake is hanging (even with the parking brake disconnected). What is the problem here? Is the caliper bad? Would replacing the caliper solve the problem? Does the parking brake have to be connected to stop the caliper from hanging up?
2. My second problem is the pulsating of the brakes. I am afraid the rotor is warped because of the heat, or maybe he didn't clean everything well enough before he put the new rotor on. How can I figure out what the problem is? Is there a way to check a rotor to see if it is warped? Could there be another reason I feel the pulsating brakes? By the way, the brake fluid is full.
If the caliper needs to be replaced and I can leave the parking brake disconnected, are there any special instructions my friend should know about before working on this? He does work on a lot of cars and rebuilds cars to sell, so he is pretty knowledgeable. I think the only thing he didn't know about was rotating the piston. I would like to provide him with detailed instructions if necessary.
I need to replace my parking brake, it is definitely on its way out.
What I wanted to know is, do I need a cable for each side or is there only one cable?
I have an 03 JETTA TDI 5 SPEED WAGON with 216 on it. The parking brake alarm recently came on for no reason (as did the warning light) As soon as you move 50' it starts and wont stop until you stop the vehicle. I pulled the center console, unplugged the switch and it still did it. I jumped the 2 wires together and it still did it! I cut the wires at the point where they disappeared into the larger harness, it still did it!!! Why this is happening and if there is something besides the switch at the park brake lever that make the alarm go off?
View 1 RepliesIt's a 2003, 2.0, rear disks. If I take it apart and manually compress the piston with that rotating clamp that Autozone lent me I can put it back together and use it 2 or 3 times and then it's too tight and I have to take it all apart again. I don't have the cable hooked up, I just move the lever with my hand or a screwdriver.
I'm a little irritated cause I replaced this caliper last year. I remember finding a good description of how this device worked and now I can't find it again.
I have a 2002 Jetta TDI with the grey leather parking brake handle cover and would like to replace it. How to do this and if I will have to remove the armrest & the plastic trim around the handle?
View 2 RepliesI have to pull up really hard to get the parking brake to hold. If I'm on a hill forget it, I yank up really hard and then leave it in gear just in case. I have installed new cables and pads. I have also have the lever adjusted so it starts to catch when you pull it up about 2-3 inches. I've never driven another mk4 so I don't have any other reference to how well the parking brake should hold but I would think that I wouldn't have to pull up this hard to get it to habe any real holding power.
Any other vehicle I've driven with a hand brake I could easily lock up the rear tires. I'm lucky to get mine to lock while pulling so hard I think I'm going to break something. I've searched around and have only come up with threads about replacing cables and adjusting the lever. I couldn't find anything like the problem I'm having. Is this normal operation for a mk4 or is there something wrong with my calipers that needs to be addressed? My regular brakes work fine and the parking brake arms on the calipers allear to be functioning properly. They contract then spring back on their own
Every time I speed up or slow down my ABS, TC and parking brake lights turn on and my car beeps at me. I'm assuming that I have a wheel speed sensor going out. But when I check the codes there is nothing and the check engine light never turns on, so how do you tell which one to replace? Or is my problem something different? I drive a 1999.5 vr6 Jetta.
View 10 Replieshaving some issues with my idle, when im coasting and i push in the clutch it doesnt drop down to idle like it used to it sticks at about 2000 when its dropping, also at a stop light the idle will rise up and hunt from 1700 to 2300 or so. also if im in a parking lot in second gear or so the rpms will rise and accdelerate the vehicle.
View 1 Replies2003 Jetta, 1.8T, 5spd, stock, 129k miles. I am working on a friends car and his complaint is the clutch pedal occasionally sticks to the floor and during this sequence it is hard to shift gears. I removed knee bolsters to inspect under the dash and found all linkage straight, all plastic parts/springs in place and no fluid leaks, I removed slave cylinder from bell housing and found smooth operation and no leaks. I guess I could replace both but I am wondering if there is a common issue. My searches have found broken plastic parts, bent push rods and leaking cylinders.
View 4 RepliesHad my car parked outside of work for about 12 hours yesterday, and in the NYC cold front, the parking break must have stuck on slightly. When I started to move, despite the fact I'd released the parking break, I received a warning in the MFI that said PARKING BREAK FAILURE TO RELEASE. I pulled the handle again and heard it pop just a little more off. Everything worked great after that. If I hadn't received the alert I probably would have driven off with it on. I'd probably have noticed the hesitation and checked the break again, but the alert was useful. Some of the warnings in the MFI can appear to be a pain at times, but it's amazing how thorough a job VW has done monitoring the cars systems and giving real time information if something doesn't work. You just have to make sure you don't get info overload from it all!!
View 4 Replieswe have a 1986 dodge truck and the brake pedal sticks down and you have to manualy pull it back to release the brake. What could my problem be.
View 2 RepliesTonight while driving along at about 30-35mph, smooth road, contant speed, straight, etc. I heard a continuous ding, saw a red light come on, and saw the MFD light up "release parking brake."
I checked and the brake was released as I thought.
I pulled over, set and released the brake a few times, shut the car off and restarted it.
The BRAKE light remains on the whole time though and I can not get it to turn off.
That isn't the bad part though, once you are under way the chime continuously dings until you stop again.
The brake is not set and is not dragging, I coasted in neutral and there was no noticeable deceleration. Also once I got home which was about a 45minute drive (a lot of fun with the chime sounding the whole time) I put my hand by the rear wheels and neither of them had much heat coming from them.
It obviously is an electrical glitch of some sort. Where is the parking brake sensor? is it inside the cabin or outside under the rear end somewhere? is there a fuse I can yank to get this to stop until I can bring it in to the dreaded dealership?
I was down at H20i this past weekend and had my window cracked and a truck splashed water into my car all over my dash. Then all my lights started flickering. So I let it air out for about 2hrs and cleaned it all up and the problem went away expect the parking brake light flickered for a bit then just stayed on and kept binging at me and says to release the parking brake. So when I got home I let it air out all night and let my windows down and put my car in the sun all day today. Parking brake light is still on.
View 6 RepliesMy passenger parking light is off. I've check all my fuses and wiring and everything is good. They were working fine yesterday but they then shut off out of no where.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Jetta. I would like to have my parking lights on all the time, controlled with ignition (without any headlights), & have my headlights only cone on when I turn the headlight switch. Is there an easy way to do it?
View 2 RepliesSo I bought a used 1.8t back in august. My second golf, up from an mkiii and I love it. However, the previous owner installed a CAI and being that he lives in the desert, probably never had any issues taking on water. Fast forward to my problem, got caught in a rainstorm, limped it home with the CEL and the traction lights on. it died like three times trying to get it home, but it still would idle when I parked it.
Now I've used the search feature extensively on this problem, and what I've down so far is to take off the intake and reroute it about six or seven inches from the maf, I've cleaned the filter, maf, pancake pipe, and SMIC with denatured alcohol and those are all currently drying. When I took the IC off, specifically the connection between the pancake and the IC, a good three cups (~30oz/850sillyliters) of water dumped out.
Again, my car still was idling when I parked it. Scanned the CEL and got misfires and maf low air codes. Before I started tearing down the intake I took the coils and plugs out and put my shop lights above the valve cover to generate a little heat, maybe make a lil water evap from the cylinders. I live in a pretty arid climate, IE all the water that fell onto my garage floor was gone in 24 hours. Prolly wishful thinking but whatever.
My plan next is to put everything back together when it's all dry, pour a lil oil down into the cylinders, and crank it while the spark plugs are out. Hopefully any residual water will shoot out, along with the oil/gas, and I can go back to enjoying my life.
Also, the intake is hot. I'm thinking any water that made it past the intercooler would've been steam/vapor and I shouldn't need to remove that? Also it seems like it's in a conformation that would force any residual water to drain either into the cylinders or back into the intercooler, so I really don't see any gains by removing and cleaning it
I don't really know how to describe the sound but whenever I stop and set the parking brake, the car makes a funny noise that kinda sounds like wobbling. It does this when I disengage it before I take off again as well. What causes this?
View 5 RepliesLeaving parking lights on. How long will it take to drain the battery enought that you cant start the car? Is there any type of auto-shut off in there?
Here is why I am asking:
It recently snowed up here in NY and I park on the street. I was thinking about leaving my parking lights on overnight so nobody (namely a plow) mistook my car for a snow drift. For those who dont know, the parking lights are left on by simply turning on the headlights and removing the key.
When depressed the break peddle is firm, when released break peddle does not return, replaced mc and booster, bleed breaks. Still having same problem.
View 1 RepliesQuick background. 1+ years ago I'd sometimes get the "moo" when in reverse. It was intermittent and never enough or a persistent issue to address. Recently, no moo, but I noticed when I'd release the parking brake and move forward there'd be a minor hesitation and an audible thunk, not too pronounced, then it'd roll freely from then forward.
Replaced rear brakes a few weeks ago, noticed the right side parking brake arm doesn't reset as far free as the left. Pushing it 'home' by hand made a little thunk in the cable house up near where it bends towards the vehicle's midline. Brakes installed, and it spun freely by hand with perhaps only a very small amount of 'hiss' but not consistent for a full revolution, only periodically. Lubed both cables from the center console.
Last night installed parking brake return springs, set and released the parking brake a few times to see how it felt. Right side looks like it still does not return home 100% (maybe, 2-3mm away, same as before). Today, made a run to Napa. Got there fine, when leaving, drop the parking brake, and as I'm grabbing reverse I get a yellow dash light and a "check brake pads" warning. I drove about a block, pulled over, shut off engine, got underneath (no parking brake set) and the arm seemed to sit about where it should. I drove a few miles at low speed, pulled over (left engine running, set parking brake), checked temp of all rotors (both sides) with my finger, nothing noticeable. Drove a few more, repeated the above (engine running, brake set) and temps were still cool.
Got home, replaced fans. Started up to test fans, and the error isn't there now.
If it was going to throw an error I'd more likely expect it when leaving home, where I had cycled the parking brake handle multiple times. No error there, or en route to Napa. Leaving Napa, parking brake engaged only once, I got the error. Powering off and restarting, it was still there. Successive stops did not have the engine shut off. Once home, it cleared.