Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 03 - Throttle Module / No Accelerator Input Sometimes
Sep 17, 2014
I have a 2003 Jetta 2.0 with the drive by wire throttle and I've been having some problems with it lately.
When on the highway (at a constant speed) sometimes it's almost like you take your foot off the accelerator pedal, then when you go to press it more, nothing happens, until you pump it a few times, it works again. This sounds like an electrical problem to me, not fuel or spark, because it's not sputtering at all, it just ignores your accelerator input. Is the "throttle module" a serviceable part?
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I have a 2007 jetta city with the single DIN radio (stock). I would like to have an aux input or usb input. I would like to know what would be the better option? (I don't want to go aftermarket). I know that there is a lot of option but I don't know witch one will work on my radio. (no pre-wired cd changer, no satellite).
Also, on the bottom right of the radio there is two kind of blank plugs (circle and rectangular). It looks like a usb and aux input would fit right there. I saw a picture in witch someone as the exact same radio but with a usb input (instead of the rectangular thing).
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My gf's son has an old 2000 Jetta 2.0 and when the check engine light came on and shifted poorly, it was diagnosed as a problem with the transmission input and/or output sensors. Where are they located exactly?
Both look pretty much the same, but here's a pic of one of them : [URL] ....
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I'm trying to get to the manual transmission input shaft seal on my 01 GTI w/12V VR6. I've removed the 3 bolts surrounding the input shaft but the metal shroud underneath the 3 bolts seems to be adhered tightly in place. You can see the 3 bolt holes and metal shroud in this photo: [URL]
Am I on the right track in trying to remove that shroud? If so, how do I loosen it?
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I have a problem with my sonata NF 2006 the check engine light turn on like 2 days ago and give me the p2128 code say Accelerator pedal Position Circuit - High Input something like that i cheek all the cable off the throttle body to the ecu and i don't see any cable broken how I can check the accelerator pedal sensor? I see in one page a texting the sensor whit a multi miter but was for santa fe and the cable don't have the same colors . I need the accelerator pedal cable diagram and i don't have it ....
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First ever failure with a Toyota. We limped home at 25mph this morning. No response with throttle pedal input, but the throttle body did operate in fail safe mode. Throttle pedal checks out with omhs check across the terminals per Toyota manual. I'm looking at having the car transported 45 miles to nearest dealer. I can change the tb out myself but not sure of the electronics. Does the computer have to be programed for a new tb?
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I have a 2005 Jetta 2.0L (MKIV, of course) that has been giving me some trouble lately. Very seldom while driving in the city I'll notice that instead of shifting up, the car will lose power and the accelerator becomes unresponsive. Until lately this only happens for a second or two before things go back to normal, but I just got home from work and it seemed like the engine stalled.
I was going about 40 mph or so and suddenly the accelerator stopped responding, but I looked at my dash and the battery light was on. As I pulled over and attempted to slow down I found that the brakes were also very tight. Eventually I came to a stop and restarted the car, and the rest of the drive was uneventful, but it's got me worried.
I've had a couple of CELs pop up in the past so I invested in a VAG-COM reader. I just read the codes and here's what I got:
16804
18613
00529
Is this a transmission problem? Are these codes indicating separate issues or are they all connected?
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Anybody have any issues with this? I have a week old r-line and had the epc light come on, turbo seems to spool heavily with little throttle input and seems a bit sluggish.
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Before I changed my driver's lock module, when I removed my key and opened the door, the car would still have power to close the sunroof and windows, but now with the new module once I open the door the power's all off. I have to resort to everything closing when I lock the car (KVW100).
Why this is happening and how I can revert to being able to close the windows without having to leave the key in? Not that it's a huge issue; just felt it was a nicer convenience how it used to be.
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I've noticed lately that my Mk4 Jetta isn't accelerating the way it used to. It's an '03 5-speed 2.0L, and while the engine idles more or less normally as far as I can tell, when the car is in gear and I press the accelerator, it shudders and "slips", like an an automatic with a bad transmission.
I've checked things out with my OBD2 reader and it's not reporting any codes, no trouble indicator lights, etc., but it's definitely not responding the way it should. I just had it in for a tune-up recently, thinking it was an engine problem, but I don't think that fixed it.
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My 2002 VW Jetta 1.8t has recently taken a dump and had been sputtering jumping periodically when I pressed the accelerator. It had started several months ago and has become progressively worse until it didn't start anymore. Usually I could turn it off and then turn it on again and it would be fine. Not anymore.
I checked it out, the fuel pump, engine speed sensor and fuel pump relay had all been shot so my initial thought was to check for a broken wire somewhere if it had been shorting. All wires are intact but i can't find the ground connector for the fuel pump. Where is it located? I have checked and serviced all other grounds, have replaced fuel pump, relay and speed sensor. The injectors are getting juice but aren't working (the injectors themselves are still good)
Also, there are three connectors behind the relay bar underneath the dash where the fuel pump relay is located. What order they are supposed to be? There is blue, red and green. They were disconnected (not my idea) and now I don't know how they go back.
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I recently took a long drive, and on 2 occasions, I heard the engine revving up when just simply cruising steadily at 70-80mph with little throttle input. I checked the LCD screen drive-train diagram, and there's no indicated of the engine turning during the revving. The car does not accelerate during the revving. Happens say for 10 - 20 seconds each time. To stop the revving, I simply give it a bit of throttle. I'm not on Cruise Control. Its a strange feeling, and I hope this isn't connected to the runaway Prius syndrome.
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Mark IV GTI. Neuspeed intake, chip, exhaust. The situation is...
When driving enthusiastically, harder, and sportingly, the car runs beautifully!
When driving normally, such as highway cruise or lower speeds with a consistent throttle input, the power will cut-out. Then the max boost pressure will be approximately 3 psi until the key is cycled. Then normal chipped operation resumes. Since it is difficult to drive hard all the time, this circumstance comes up often.
There is a new N75 recently installed. The situation does NOT set off the check engine light.
I have noticed according to the boost gauge readings, it tends to happen between 10 inHg to 0 psi. Above or below that, don't recall it happening.
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Battery kept dying. Had the battery tested. Bench tested as OK but kept dying. Replaced the battery with a new OEM. In a week, that battery was dying too. Alternator was putting out 13V but would dip down to 11V. Also did a parasitic current draw test. Car is only drawing 20mA at rest. Replaced the alternator with brand new. New alternator putting out 14.4V. Battery keeps dying. Still no parasitic current draw.
I did two things right around the same time I started having the issue. I put in a new head unit. I already had an aftermarket head unit and I simply upgraded. I know this isn't the issue because I ripped the thing out completely, including wiring harness, and I still kept having a problem. The other change I made was going from a MFSW to a 3-spoke. I removed the MFSW relay and switched the pins in the column so that the horn and airbag work properly. I tried the cruise control and it doesn't work. When I try to turn on the cruise control, it blows the horn fuse. Replaced the horn fuse and I just don't use the cruise.
What I'm wondering is if I messed up the CCM when I did the steering wheel swap. I've read that bad CCMs can kill batteries. I'm not having the typical faulty CCM issues. The only issues, besides the battery dying, are that the unlock on the keyfob will stop working at random, and the "door ajar" light on my dash flickers at random.
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2.0 Jetta with AEG engine.
I've been plagued by a belt squeak for several months now that only seems to occur when I'm in motion and let off the accelerator. I'm thinking it's the timing belt so I took the top cover off to have a look. What I found is the belt is a bit off center on the top sprocket, although it doesn't look frayed and isn't hanging off the edge.
I found that the tensioner seems to wiggle slightly when I try moving it by hand. It doesn't look like it wobbles when the car is running, but I've never been able to see in the engine compartment when the squeak occurs. The belt also appears to have some shine on a line down the center. Pictures attached.
FWIW, I checked for play in pulleys on the aux belt and found none. What's everyone's opinion on the tensioner and the condition of the belt? The belt has 52,000 miles on it.
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2002 Elantra auto trans issue.
We are experiencing NO throttle after the car sits over night. But Not every time. When I write "NO throttle" the car will start but will not increase rpms with pedal input/movement. Runs at idle only. After a few minutes, it picks up the pedal input and is fine until is sits over night, sometimes.
I have changed out the TPS and no change. The car has just over 80000 miles and otherwise runs like a champ. There is no check engine light or any stored codes. The cable rotates freely at the TB. I read in the forums that the TPS replacements can be suspect.
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I got in a work truck yesterday, sat down, put my seat belt on and started the truck. Just as I did that another employee drove by and waved, all I could do was nod back at him because my hand was still starting the truck. This took my attention away for a split second, then as I put the truck in gear, my foot still on the brake, I noticed that the tachometer was pegged and the engine was racing. I instinctively pushed harder on the brake pedal, then looked down to be sure that I was pushing on the brake pedal and I was. Right then then rear of the truck started shaking violently and as fast as I could I turned the key off and put it back in park. This all happened in about 1 second, maybe 2.
The shaking was caused by the sheared off driveshaft. And it was sheared off because the center section of the rear differential had broken the spot welds that hold it and place and rotated on the axel housings. It is now pointing upward towards the bed of the truck. Have a drive by wire truck run the engine at wide open throttle with no input from the pedal? 2010 F150 4.6L...
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Today and yesterday day mark the first time since I have owned my truck, that I have really taxed it with a load or serious work.
I have 8126, miles to date, and hadn't felt this annoying and somewhat pronounced shudder at throttle- tip in. Only from a dead stop. I'm doing some work to my house, so as I type this I have about 700-800lbs in my box. I've never felt this shudder empty as I do with a load, and starting out on an incline.
It feels like the rear is rolling over a "rumble strip" for the first few feet of throttle input, between 5-10 mph and then smooth everywhere else.
Rob- if your reading this, I can't remember if your shudder was similar, or if yours did it empty or only when towing or hauling a load.
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Mk4 jetta 1.8t ECP light is on, when I lightly push gas, car stalls and cuts off. Where to begin? Here's the vagcom readings:
906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 LP
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0007
Coding: 07500
Shop #: WSC 78901
VCID: 77FDFDB25513C5A6AAD-5140
3VWSE69M12M090016 VWZ7Z0A4180723
18 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
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What are the symptoms of a bad o2 sensor, 2.0.. My son is having some problems with his car hesitating when he gets into the throttle and the only codes we are getting shows bad O2 sensor pre cat.
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Car is a 20th, 1.8t 6-speed.
I noticed something the other day that is happening occasionally on acceleration. At partial throttle, usually pulling away from a light or stop sign, I get this weird hesitation. It only happens at partial throttle and usually only in first, sometimes in second. As the RPMs increase up to around 3k, it's as if I lose power for a second. You can feel the car stop accelerating for a second, then it begins to pull again.
If it's under heavy acceleration it never happens. It doesn't feel like the clutch slipping, more like the motor hesitating, but there's no noises or missing or anything like that. The RPMs don't jump up or anything. It's like for a second it's making no power, then it comes back.
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