My03 GLI will not engage first or second gear.
This morning, i was having some issues getting the car in reverse, but it eventually engaged and is fine now. I drove to the barbershop, and on the way home, the shifter stopped engaging 1st or 2nd gear. it moves freely into position (TOO FREELY) and all other gears will engage. common sense tells me that the clutch is fine and the problem is with the shifter.
Just put transmission back in car after getting 3/4 gear synchros replaced and tdi 5th gear installed. I adjusted the shift linkage multiple times and did the procedure 100% correct. Now, all gears work except for 3rd. I can't get into 3rd at all whether shifting with cables installed or just freely from tower.
View 4 RepliesYesterday my 2003 VW Golf TDI turn signals stopped working. The hazard/emergency lights do work. Also, when I push the signal lever forward the brights don't engage. Does this sound like a bad relay or blown fuse?
View 6 RepliesThe issue with the car is that the tranny won't go into any gear. With clutch in or out. I had very little play left or right or up and down. Not sure what could be wrong. The car has 120k miles and no mods.
View 2 RepliesI have the 20th anniversary GTI with the 6-speed manual at 90k miles
I have the Dieselgeek Short shifter installed so for the most part my shifter is nice and tight/precise. However, I have some play in the shifter while it is in gear and I understand that this is normal for a car as it ages. But I assumed that the Dieselgeek would've solved all the gear slop in my shifter, and I was wrong.
So is there a part I can replace to tighten it back up?
When the car is in gear it's great! Or at least it seems great. However, trying to place the Shift Lever in the car into the gear "slots?" is troublesome.
It feels as though there is a wall in the way for each gear, and i have to force my way through the wall. It's not absolutely Terrible, for i've been driving like this for months. But i want a smother shift! I want to be able to just slide the Shift Lever into gear without any hangups or major resistance.
Double Clutching seems to work, however it might just be from the small loss of RPMs through the process of double clutching.
Personally I would rather not have to double clutch just to see a slight improvement. I have big feet and they constantly are rubbing on the floor mat as well as the plastic above the pedals, so double clutching always feels like i'm wedging my foot into a hole, then back out and in, before i can go into another gear lol.
The problem is only a real issue when i'm in higher RPMs giving the car more gas. I.E. after a fast launch in first, shifting even around 5500 puts a WALL up on second gear making it impossible for me to get it into second gear, after not getting it into second i usually throw it in third, and essentially lose all the acceleration i had from the first gear launch.
As well is there anyway to make the clutch a little stiffer? She grabs fine, i just like stiffer clutch, it requires less of me trying to wedge my huge foot on the pedal.
It's an un-molested MKIV Jetta VR6 with 167k.
My problem is that it pops out of 3rd gear when I let off the gas. I have had this problem before so any tips on setting my shifter linkage?
View 5 RepliesI have a 5 speed 01 wolfsburg. I was about to leave my driveway tonight and went to shift into 1st and the shifter was all loose. I could not shift into any gear, the shifter was just flopping around. Earlier in the day the neutral jiggle was much looser than it usually is, which I thought was peculiar.... So I guess that was it breaking.
Question is: how do I fix it? I looked under the hood and all of the linkage to the transmission looks good, I think it has disconnected/broken under the shift knob... I've looked around online and cant find anything for this year... or replacement parts for that matter.
I guess im going to have to get the car up on jacks and remove the heat shield to get to the bottom side?
I'm having an issue with my clutch and I'm really in a hole. Two days ago I was driving my car and everything was fine. Later in the day the shifter got stuck and would not budge out of 5th gear. Eventually it popped out. Driving like normal again and then yesterday I was on my way home from work and all hell broke loose. I was a mile away from my house and the car would not shift into any gear without a fight.
I also at this time lost my clutch pedal. It went really soft but did come back up.. it would not engage however. Limped it the rest of the way home and took a look at it. What I came across was a full brake/clutch reservoir, no leaks around the slave, and I didn't see any leaks around the master. I will say that after the car sat for about 10 mins the pedal felt normal again but quickly went soft after a few pumps.
2.0 AEG 5spd. Trans code DZQ if any of that would be relevant..
I have a 2000 Golf GLS which I tried to replace the shifter solenoids on and since I replaced them it shifts very very incorrectly it almost feels as if it starts in 4th gear and works its way to 1st.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 2.0L Jetta with a 5 Speed manual transmission.
When shifting into third gear sometimes I push the shifter forward and it does not want to move all the way forward. It feels like I am pushing the shifter knob against a wall, or more accurately the bottom of the shift that pulls the cables feels like it is hitting a wall. If I pull it back out and press it in hard it will go into place sometimes.
This also solves the problem: While the shifter is mid shift into third, at the wall/ at the point of resistance, I let off the clutch slightly to give the flywheel some friction. This rolls the transmission a bit and allows third gear to slide into place.
I have experience with a MK4 Audi TT 1.8T that cam with a 6-SPD and it at had a 1-2 and 2-3 synchronizer issue (The one where the nipples are worn and it grinds at higher RPMS because they can no longer make a firm handshake). The issue I am experiencing is not that.
Could it be the transmission cables? Could it be some other cogs in the transmission? - If so does this mean I need to buy a used one? My car has 180K miles on it with the original clutch.
I picked up a 2004 GTI not long ago for pretty cheap because it had a few issues. I am working my way through them. However, having 3rd gear issue.
All other gears are perfectly fine but there is way less play in the shifter in the 3rd gear position and I have to hold the shifter in position until the clutch is engaged (pedal up) to avoid the gear grinding. Once the clutch is engaged it stays in 3rd gear fine. It doesn't matter if I am moving from 2nd to 3rd or 4th to 3rd. Same deal. I have aligned the shifter several times using to proper procedures with no effect.
It never grinds 3rd with the clutch disengaged (so the synchro is fine?) and it will bang shift no problem. Oh and the clutch is less than a year old. It was installed by a shop before I bought the car. It's not really a big deal, but I would like to fix it. If I have to swap the trans that's fine, but need to figure out if it is a trans or linkage issue first.
98 Jetta TDI hydraulic system ... We just received this vehicle from my mother in law, who is not driving any more. It's a cream puff--79,000 miles, beautiful condition. Problem is the clutch engages lower and lower to the floor, and eventually the shifter gets stuck in gear. The brake pedal slowly sinks to the floor when at stops on hills. Our mechanic tells us these two are connected because both the clutch and brake run off the same hydraulic system.
1st time he said the fluid was filthy, and he emptied the system and put in clean fluid. Worked for a little while and then we were back where we started. Second time he replaced a couple parts on the clutch, replaced this fluid, and this time it ran like a dream for a little over a month. Then the problem just returned. Again he says the fluid is filthy, and now we are looking at replacing the master cylinder and again changing the fluid. The theory behind why this is happening is that my mother in law let the car sit for half a year before passing it on to us. She didn't do much driving the 6 months before that either. I've done research, and this doesn't appear to be a common problem by any means on these cars.
I recently changed the bushings and installed SS kit. I don't know if this was the case before, but now while in any gear, i can still move it approx half inch to the right and half inch to the left.
I checked everything and all screws are tight. Could it be that the shifter cables need adjustment?
So i was driving home from work yesterday and out of no where i couldnt get the shifter to get over to 1st or 2nd gear. i had to wiggle it around and push down on the shift knob and it eventually went over. Happened a few more times yesterday and like twice on my way to work today. It feels kind of sticky or something, not really moving as freely as it used to. What could be causing this?
View 6 RepliesMy mother In law's a/c is not working. Last year I replaced the compressor, fcm, and pressure sensor and nothing. Well fast forward a year and I'm here again trying to sort it out. I unplugged the connector to the compressor and there is 2 black wires 1 wire has 6 volts (not 12v) and the others reads nothing. When I turn the A/C on the fans do come on.
View 6 RepliesDriving home yesterday and the ac wouldnt come on my 2003 golf. Worked fine day before. All fuses are fine. Small fan works but large one needs to be replaced but its been that way. Ac button works fine too. What else would cause the clutch to not engage? I believe the pressure is fine as it worked fine the day before.
View 3 RepliesSo I get in the car to drive back home, and after i start it wont engage gear, PRNDS flashing, cant get the key out, total drama. Called the dealer. I will tow it back to the origin where it came from. What it is. Shift solenoid failure... But f..ck knows with these things. It only took me 4589785115 times to get the key out...
View 18 RepliesI have been reluctant to post another clunking thread because it's nearly impossible to accurately describe what is happening. But I have reached by breaking point and I wanted a few opinions before I take it into the dealer. I am still under powertrain warranty, but I want to be confident I am not wasting mine and the dealers time if I am just missing something easy. I also know dealers don't always take clunks seriously so I want to pinpoint it first.
Symptoms : Car has 50k miles. I am the original owner.
From a stop, when getting the car rolling moderately aggressively there is a clunk/pop noise from the car. I can slightly feel it in the pedals and it is fairly loud. Almost like a distant hammer and nail pounding. It's a single clunk, with sometimes a double "pop pop". It's noticeable even with the radio turned up a little. If you are smooth on the throttle it doesn't make the noise. It seems random, like something is hitting something which only happens under certain weight shifts.
It sounds like it's from the rear and the front. It seems to switch. But honestly I am not confident either way. Where it is. It is silent on turns, bumps, speed bumps, driveway, etc. I don't think it's the suspension. It is not a clicking/tapping, only a single clunk or knock.
It also happens in 1st/2nd in stop and go traffic. If you leave it in 1st and the traffic is moving from say 8-15mph where you don't need to use the clutch it will clunk during on/off throttle. Anything above ~30mph I haven't been able to replicate the noise with on/off throttle.
It also does it if I downshift when coming to a stop and don't rev match. Say you are slowing down and you go from 4th, 3rd, then 2nd, let the clutch out and it rev matches up to ~3,000rpm which causes the weight to shift forward....clunk! It is not easy to replicate which is another reason I am slow to bring it to the dealer until I pinpoint it.
Things I have tried:
- Subframe bolt torque check. Installed ECS spacer/bolt kit anyway.
- Sway bar links are tight, or at least they didn't budge at all.
- Adjusted the rear hatch a million different ways as it was making a similar noise earlier.
- Spare tire tightened, tools removed
- Rear seats up/down/mix/seat belts fastened, etc.
I was only able to locate one motor mount? Where they are. Seems fine. Dogbone seems fine, again hard to tell.
Suspect:
I have VWR springs, but I am 90% sure this started happening right before I had them installed. I did the rears myself, a well known shop did the front. I noticed the noise maybe 2k before the springs were installed.
Clutch linkage somewhere - I had issues with my transmission (early build). The clutch was replaced at 7k. I've always had a very loud flywheel and a grinding feeling in the pedal. Maybe the shifter linkage is hitting something? I have little experience with VW's so I am still learning and don't know what to check.
My rear harmonic balancer is cracking like everyone else. I have no vibrations yet and I don't see how it could be causing a clunk in the current state. Maybe a motor mount is bad that I cant see? It feels like something is loose in the drivetrain.
Here's the story: was on my way downtown last night to get a new suit (I'm in Savannah, GA so it's hot) and AC was working great. The Jetta (2003 AWP) is a stock-everything-1.8T that has never had any AC work done to it from the day I bought it new. I figured it was doing just fine so just leave it alone. Anyway, leave the suit shop (bought a gray three-piece) and go back to the parking lot, start up and get ready to leave, no cold air from the vents. I get it home and do some reading on here and also in the Bentley manual and get into some preliminary troubleshooting. Here's what I have so far:
- Engine running/AC button ON/Blower on "3"/Recirculation OFF/Engine at operating temperature
- Turn blower ON - visually verified that clutch is not engaged and compressor is not spinning
- Shut car off, compressor does turn by hand easily
- With AC button on and blower on, passenger side cooling fan (behind radiator) is ON but driver side cooling fan IS NOT on - I think this indicates a problem from what I've read
- Checked cabin fuses 5, 16, & 25. All have low resistance (good continuity) and are not discolored. Just to make sure I scuffed the contacts with a scotchbrite pad and reinstalled them
- Same deal for the top-of-the-battery power distribution block. All fuses checked okay and were scuffed and reinstalled
- Moved on to the pressure switch/pressure sensor. My vehicle has the 3-pin sensor so jumping contacts is not a possibility. I need to rent/buy a duty cycle meter to check it. Any good tutorial on how to do this? Do I disconnect the connector and check it right at the switch or must I break out the wires and check it in parallel with the connector attached to the sensor?
- I grabbed a flat-head screwdriver and gave the high-pressure and low-pressure service valves a poke and got a good blast of pressure from them so I don't think the system is empty.
- Did a little more reading and found I needed to check voltage at the 3-pin connector on top of the battery power distribution block. I did this with the key ON - no power at any of the pins. Repeated with key ON and engine running with AC button ON and blower ON - still no voltage. For these measurements, the connector was DISCONNECTED. Does this matter? Do I need to have it plugged in to get voltage there (i.e., read the voltage from the rear of the connector with it installed?)
- Finally, and perhaps most enlightening, I suspected I may simply be low on R134a so I bought a can with a pressure gauge on it. Connected it to low-pressure side with engine running, AC button ON, blower on "4", recirculation OFF. The gauge read ~150 PSIG. Yes, this seems high to me too; however, the compressor is still not turning at this point. Does it need to turn to get a good pressure reading from the LP service valve? I recall from everything I read that if pressure is too low, the clutch won't engage, and if pressure is too high, the clutch won't engage
So, as far as I can tell I have a few problems...
1. The driver side fan doesn't run when AC button is ON
2. No voltage at the 3-pin connector on the battery power distribution block Incorrect methods...there is voltage there.
3. Low-pressure side of the AC system is too high Called and checked with a local mechanic...I won't receive correct pressures if the compressor is not turning.
My next steps are to check the voltage at the compressor connector for 12VDC. I suspect I'll get 0V because it's clearly not turning. I'll do this once I can figure out how to get the dang connectors apart without breaking them. 11-year-old heat fatigued plastic is brittle...
Finally got the compressor connector apart.. there is 12VDC on pin 1 and 0VDC on pin 2 (it's a ground, so there shouldn't be..ground continuity check good). Ohmed out the clutch...from what I can tell, that circuit is open. However, I am not 100% sure I was on the contacts because of how the connector is positioned. I'm going to get a dummy connector from a salvage yard and connect it up and make sure I have good contact before I call it a bad clutch.
Okay, my shifter rod got spun, and now it doesn't want to go into any gears. Just freely kinda swirls, and you can't push down. The guy working on the car wants to pull the shift box down and see what is going on. He thinks the shift cable or selector cable is broke.
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