Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 01 - Car Only Cranks, Won't Start
Mar 14, 2015
About a month ago I went to start my car and it started up and died and now it won't start at all. All it does is crank and crank and crank. My vagcom say j271 relay open circuit . so I replaced the 428 relay and it still doesn't start. I'm also not getting any epc or cel light with the key in the on position which is strange to me. But if I swap the 428 relay with the 100 relay right next to it I get all the dash lights like I'm suppose to but as soon as I try to start it the two lights go out and won't come back on until I pull the relay out and put it back in. I hate obd2 so much sometimes.
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I've got a Mk4 Golf 2.0L with 136k on the clock. Hasn't really given me any problems in the past year of ownership till now. I recently picked her up from the shop for a rear axle beam replacement. When I picked her up she drove fine. I headed to class for the day and she sat in a parking lot for 6 hours or so. I hop in and try to fire her up and nothing. Had to have her towed back to my apartments. I've checked fuses, spark plugs were recently replaced but I am getting no spark. When I crank it I do hear the fuel pump and I can smell gas when I crank it. The rpms go up just a bit, 100-200 range. Going to check out the crankshaft sensor later on. maybe it could be the coil pack as well? I don't know a huge amount about these cars, only some info. And I sadly have no access to a scanner to check for codes.
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So I bought a project golf vr6, but the head and some of the components were off, I have all the parts but I just cannot figure out why it is not wanting to start, it cranks over but does not start...
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I am having a problem starting my VW Golf 2.0 since yesterday. When i turn on the ignition the car cranks up but does not start. I did a computer odb check and it gave me out some error codes.
here are a few things that i noticed sometime back:
While driving once or twice suddenly the car wasn't accelerating when i pressed the accelerator. This happened to me twice but then it was OK. Didn't have an issue again.
Sometimes the car gear doesn't shift gear i have to shutdown the car and start it again, then it shifts gear properly. I feel like the car is consuming a bit extra fuel. How I can fix this and what the issue is?
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My 03 GTI 1.8 is having start issues. It cranks up fine, but it sputters to a start. It doesn't idle high and fall down to the 850 mark like normal, it just lugs itself into low idle. I have to then throttle it until it stops sputtering and I have a smooth rev. Then after that, the car runs fine. I can stop it and start it up again fine when it's warmed up. I have checked multiple things already.
-The Ignition coils are in excellent condition
-Spark plugs are normal, but not exactly perfect
-Fuel pump works fine
-Battery was tested and is clean and good
-Throttle Body is clean (at least to the eye, Im cleaning it next)
-Oil was changed when I changed the sensor along with filter.
I should mention I changed the crankshaft position sensor a month ago. The block at least from under the car is filthy, but I don't know if that affects anything.
I had a check engine light, so I got its codes read (I'm out rn, but when I get home I can show you) and decided to just take it to a shop. When I took it, the light went away, decided to start as normal, and the shop just charged a huge fee for the diagnostic and nothing was fixed. I really need to know what to do with this, I daily it every day and its starting to bother me a lot now.
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Recently my 01 Jetta 1.8T has started to not start like it should. Say every 4th or 5th start it cranks and cranks, I see the tach eventually flick a couple of times and then it finally fires up. It's also stalled while I'm driving, say when I stop at a light but will usually start up again ok.
After the not so good start I get the impression the car is kind of surging while driving - like a fuel supply issue although maybe the fuel pump has nothing to do with supply after starting?
So anyway my thought is perhaps fuel pump issue? I decided to try and search for my issue or fuel pump issues but it talks about things that happen when you open the drivers door which in my case isn't working properly (i.e., I believe it is a DLM as my windows sometimes all go down and I don't get any chime or door light when the door opens).
So just wondering if based on what I'm experiencing if fuel pump sounds likely and perhaps what further tests I should run. My battery is new and the engine does crank pretty good if that eliminate it. I guess I should be thinking fuel filter perhaps also.
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My 01 Jetta 2.0 started having issues a few days ago. The engine would crank, but wouldn't start. Wait a few minutes and it would start right up. I go to start it the next day and it would crank, but not start at all. I pulled the P0322 code and replaced the crankshaft sensor along with a new fuel pump, and spark plugs just to be safe.
Next, I checked for fuel and spark, which I have both. The car still won't start and seems to lose a charge on the battery pretty quick. At this point, there are no codes showing up. Could the engine be flooded from trying to start it so much?
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2005 1.8t gti wont start. The other day I was driving on the highway when a thin plastic type wrapping got caught in my serpentine belt. The car immediately died and I hit the gas and nothing and with no power steering i pulled over to the side.
Timing belt was done with water pump and tensioners
Spark plugs and coils are brand new
What fuel line to disconnect to test if the fuel pump works? Like I said in the title I cant hear the fuel pump priming. The engine was running 100% before this 2 techs saw it and the vw dealer i workrd at looked it over.
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So I have a 2005 GTI 1.8t and I just recently had a new fuel filter/fuel pump installed.. Now ever morning when I go to start it it starts really hard.. once it's starts it runs fine it just takes me a couple cranks to get it started....
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So i just spent over $1700 at a vw service ctr having a sched 140k timing belt replaced with thermo and fuel filter. This was 3 days ago and when i picked it up it was slower to turn over then got worse and todsy it won't turn over at all even when jumped. It cranks and blows black smoke. Problem is i'm 160 miles from that svc center and it's sunday. There is a vw svc center 14 miles away but i feel like it needs to ho back to where the work was done because it ran great before taking it there.
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So I am not getting spark. Changed crank sensor and cam sensor still nuthing. I am getting no power to fuse 28 and 34. Also I am getting voltage on coil harness on pins 1 and 2 getting about 11.8 and on 2 and 4 getting 1.2. I am starting to think bad ecu?
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To start I was driving home the other night, car just stalled out and would not start back up, at all. Just cranks over and over. Things I have checked
- I am getting a spark from the plugs
- Fuel pump primes when key is turned on
- Fuel comes out of lines, even more so when key is switched over so pressure should be ok, I have not checked exact pressure due to not having a gauge.
- I have checked all relays under the steering wheel (just visual) some had brownish on the connectors and I cleaned all that off.
- All fuses are good and not blown (voltage meter also showed power coming to a few key fuses I checked.
I am down to a few things that I have read could be possible causes
- Camshaft Position Sensor
- Crankshaft Position Sensor
- Not sure what else to really check
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Its done this twice to me, once last week, once this morning. Drive a short distance after cold startup and it dies. Cranks strong but doesn't turn over. I waited a few minutes (took longer today than last week) and it restarts with a larger than normal puff of smoke, perhaps due to the multiple cranks, and the epc light comes on. Last week, I finished my errands with it on, it even went off after a restart. Today I didn't bother driving it because I was late for work. 137,xxx miles
Fuel pump and filter were replaced recently, relay was not because I could hear it and a new one didn't fix my fuel pump issue. One day I didn't hear the pump prime so naturally it didn't start but after opening and closing the door and waiting some time, it did prime and start.
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I'm having a situation here. Yesterday I decided to clean the MAF in my 01 VW Jetta 2.0, so without disconnecting the battery I unplugged and took the MAF sensor out and sprayed it using "CRC MAF sensor cleaner", let it dry for about 30 to 40 minutes and then re installed it. When I tried to start the car, I opened the ignition (ON position) and didn't hear the pump priming, still tried to start the car, it when on for about 2 seconds at rough-800rpm idle then rpms dropped and car stopped running. Then, I tried to started it again a couple of times more and I still don't hear the fuel pump priming and the car will crank but not start.
Did I ruin/blew the fuel pump or something in the system? I don't understand what could have possibly gone wrong. I already tried searching for it but did't find the exact same situation and though details might be important.
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I have a 2008 r32 that was always 100% reliable until now. One owner, no wrecks, 90k miles, all services done by the dealer and the car is in perfect condition-except it won't start. I noticed symptoms a few weeks ago - a little longer cranking time to catch and then it slowly got worse. More tires at cranking until it would catch and run. Had it to the local dealer- 3 Rivers VW, they checked it out and said there were no codes -they said after talking to VW tech to disconnect the battery to "reset" the system.
It worked for two days and then it completely died- I think their "repair" ($200 in diagnostic time) was a waste. Two days later complete zero-cranks but won't start- flat bedded to dealer again this time they have the car for ten days! First they replace the ignition switch (said it was worn/loose) , then the battery ground strap in the trunk- said it showed to much resistance (4.5 ohms), they then called and said it still wasn't starting right-need to keep it for another day. Last they replaced a relay - part number 1KO-951-253. They declared it fixed! Car started for ONE day now nothing again. Searched - crank sensor, fuse, coil packs, etc- but no solid leads.
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Car cranks over. Its getting fuel (you can smell it). Sometimes it tries to start but then putters out. Cam Position sensor? I haven't had a chance to pull codes. Ill hook it up to a vag com in the morning when i get back to work (car is parked there for now).
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It happened about 6 months ago, when I was getting ready to leave work then all of a sudden, the R wouldn't start. Flipped the key on and off in the ignition a few time and it started. had a weird idle, bouncing all around at about 1000rpm. Driving it home, the car wouldn't hold an idle and i had to play with gas the whole way home. Once home i could not get her to start again. Checked for spark, had spark but change all 6 plugs and coils anyways cause the service was due.
I scanned the car with a scanner just to check the codes and all i got was a pending crankshaft sensor code. Replaced the sensor cause it wasn't too expensive and i didn't want it to be an issue. I have also notice at the time that the fuel pump wouldn't initially prime when opening the driver door. Got a new job, and didn't have the time to mess with the R, but now I am trying to get her running again.
With the fuel pump not priming I immediately went to think of fuel, and replaced the fuel pump relay with a brand new dealer one. I haven't retested for air/fuel/spark since I just started to re-work on it. But last time I did have spark as when I sprayed some starter fluid, she chugged a little. Also now, when i disconnect and reconnect the battery i hear the initial prime, but when the key is turned to the on position, I don't notice a secondary charge.
I checked the fuel line before the rail and there is some type of pressure(I don't have the tool to check precise pressure). I also scan the car now with just a code reader and I come up with nothing current or pending. I am in the process of trying to borrow a vagcom to read further into the car.
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Any way, working on an '04 R32 (as you could assume) that has a crank with no start condition. All fuses have been checked and have been verified as functional. Have replaced both J271 and J363 relays (labelled '428' and '100' on top in engine compartment in relay location next to brake fluid reservoir. Battery was also recently replaced as was the crankshaft position sensor.
Background: Vehicle was towed to dealership where it was diagnosed (somehow) initially by their tech that there was power all the way up until injectors and then nothing happens. This didn't make sense at the time, but the work was authorized to remove the intake manifold and fix the wiring underneath. A short time later (3 hours) and returned to the dealership to check on progress as we happened to be in the area and the S/A spoke with the tech and came back and said that he didn't think it was the wiring after all. Instead, at this point, he thought that it was the crankshaft position sensor. So after they decided they wanted to do several more hours of dio without contacting in advance (thinking that the repair was already authorized) they were no further ahead. I insisted on having the car towed out of there after they couldn't tell me for certain what it was. I can throw parts at a vehicle all day long as well.
The vehicle was towed out of there and the crankshaft position sensor was replaced. After the fact, a friend with Ross Tech verified that it was getting a signal (and more than likely replaced unnecessarily). Additionally, he also verified that injectors were also getting power and everything else was alright. The Auto Scan (posted below) showed that there was a Power Supply Relay for ECU fault (Fault Code: 17925) and that the two fuses - J271 and J363 were more than likely at fault. Both fuses were located under the hood but I also found a secondary location under the driver's side dash that had another basic power fuse labelled '100'.
Additionally, I don't believe it is the fuel pump that is at fault. I pulled the sender hose off of the fuel rail and inserted it into a juice container and it sprayed enough fuel to have started the engine. Currently, I am at a loss and very frustrated with this whole ordeal. The vehicle had been driven to work and sat all day, not exhibiting so much as an ounce of anything wrong. End of day, leaving work, the car would just crank and crank. Would it make sense to pull the plugs and let them dry out because of the excessive cranks? Maybe they're just fouled? Sometimes we get too caught up in codes and parts that it's easy enough to overlook basics. I don't really know, I guess. Below is the full Auto Scan from Ross Tech. The one I believe is contributing to the no-start is in bold. Just a side note, the dealership told me that NO CODES were present. This conflicts with what I have here...
Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75 76
VIN: WVWKG61J74D132718 Mileage: 164180km/102016miles
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Address 01: Engine Labels: 022-906-032-BJS.lbl
Part No SW: 022 906 032 EG HW: 14. 4.0 3
Component: MOTRONIC ME7.1.1G 5626
Coding: 0000132
[Code] ....
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I haven't been able to start the car since I did a cluster swap a few days ago. Both my keys fobs are adapted so it's not the immobilizer. I'm not even sure if this has anything to do with the cluster swap, but it seems like too big a coincidence for my car not to start all of a sudden. I've done a cluster swap before on my TDI and didn't have any issues.
Fuel pump primes when I open the door, I have spark, and I've done a throttle body alignment but it won't start.
Measuring Block 022 under instruments shows that everything should be fine as far as the cluster swap
With the new cluster adapted, VCDS is supposed to show the car's VIN and immobilizer ID under the first extra field in the instruments address. The immobilizer ID shows up correctly, but three characters in the middle of the VIN show up as ZXX for some reason:
It does show the full VIN and immobilizer ID under Engine> measuring block 081 though.
I even put the original cluster back in the car and it still doesn't start.
The car has a UM tune and was running great before this happened.
VCDS shows no fault codes.
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Ok, so I ran my car battery COMPLETELY dead the other day. After replacing the battery and checking to ensure that it had sufficient power, i tried starting it. It cranks over very solid, but will not start. I sent it to the dealer, and their diagnostic tools receive question marks back from all the modules. This has led us to the conclusion that my ECU (ECM) needs to be reset, or has malfunctioned in some way. There is an aftermarket flash on the ECU, but I do not know by which company as it was flashed when I bought the car. How can I do a hard reset on the ECU?
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So to make a long story short, I've gone boost In my mliv r32 and the car ran no problem...I have installed an hpa cvp short runner IM...at first it was leaking from the injectors so I replaced my O rings and the fuel pump fuse as it looked fried...the car won't start...just cranks and cranks and cranks....wont turn over...
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