I couldn't avoid seemingly a huge pothole when drove at night, and the sound was really awful. After that, I could feel vibration through the steering. The ride isn't the same anymore. What causing the problem? Try to get the car to the tires shop tomorrow. don't wanna bring it to the dealer. Bad experience when I tried to get an alignment after installed vwr lowering springs.
View 11 RepliesWhen I accelerate at 70+, I get a very noticeable vibration that is felt into the steering wheel and throughout the cabin. I have 14,000 miles on the car, so I seriously doubt that it's the CV joint. Could it be possible that I lost some wheel weights, and it's become imbalanced?
View 2 RepliesI drive a 16 sonata sport with 2300 miles. Dealer says it is normal but at 80+ mph, there are vibrations that can be felt in the steering wheel and seats. At low speeds car is smooth but starts to shake at 80+.
View 13 Replies2004 Toyota Tacoma... I drive 40 miles each way to work daily and sometime, usually 20 minutes into the drive, I get a vibration in the front end and felt through the floorboards and steering wheel, that get progressively worse until the entire cab is shaking. It lasts approximately 10 minutes and then it stops only to happen again on the next drive. Wheels have been checked.
View 4 Replies5.0L ... I'm having one of those moments, you know after you do a mod to your truck and all of a sudden you notice something about your truck that could have been there all along but now you notice it as something new? Ok earlier in the week I had my exhaust resonator removed and replaced with a straight-pipe by a reputable exhaust shop. IMO the work looks to be pretty good for what it is.
That said I have always been nervous about getting exhaust work on any vehicle because it always seems like tampering with or removing the OEM plumbing for aftermarket or custom work tends to develop a vibration at some point.
So here is what I've noticed over the last couple days, when driving my truck it is extremely smooth, almost like glass. When I come to a complete stop say at a traffic light about 1-2 seconds after making the complete stop I feel this slight harmonic vibration in the steering wheel. For those of you that have an iphone it would be like having your phone bolted to the steering shaft somewhere and it on constant vibration if that makes sense.
Just to prove it only happens when I'm sitting still and idling in (D)rive I sat in my driveway with the truck idling, set the park brake and released the brake pedal holding the truck in place in (D)rive with the parking brake. No vibration, smooth as glass engine idle, as soon as I put my foot back on the brake pedal the vibration comes back. It's as if the extra draw of applying the brakes puts an extra load on some sort of accesory drive or componant under the hood and the result is this harmonic vibration.
Just so everyone knows, the vibration is very noticeable to me because I drive the truck daily, most people wouldn't pick it out if I didn't tell them first. Case in point if my wife drives the truck she can't feel it unless I tell her what to look for. There are going to be some of you that just say my truck doesn't do this and has had a smooth idle for XX,XXX miles I believe you but let me know now that I have explained exactly what to look for. Like I said for all I know it's done this since day one.
I have a feeling that the straight pipe might have been welded in slightly longer than the oem section that was removed thus putting more tention on the exhaust and engine if that makes sense, the end result being a slight vibration?? I know that manufactures put these little rubber bushings along the exhaust system on cars/ truck to absorb harmonic vibrations and for all I know my resonator might have been designed to balance out harmonic vibes in the exhaust system as well as quiet down the exhaust.
I have a 2003 F150 manual 4WD with 4.6L engine and 165000 miles. When i am driving i feel a vibration in the steering wheel and on floor board that intensifies when i press the accelerator. I do hear an irregular humming that sounds like it is coming from the driver side front. I checked the wheel for any play but it was very tight. i check tie rod ends, ball joints no play. i recently changed both u-joints on the rear shaft and the bearing hub on the passenger side front. Also, the steering feels a little 'wobbly' when i make sharp turns. it almost feels like it is giving. What else should i check?
View 1 RepliesI've got a GTI with a lot of engine vibrations, and I'm not sure if it's something to worry about or even if it's somewhat normal. I have 23,000 miles, Stage II for most of that. My motor ticks obviously but they all do. The idle is smooth (mostly, the needle never fluctuates it's idling at a specific RPM perfectly) but I feel little hiccups and inconsistencies in my steering wheel at a stop light.
Could this be bad motor mounts? Could this be a valvetrain issue? Is there any way to debug this?
I first noticed the issue (it might have been happening beforehand, but never noticed it) after getting my 20k dealer service. Until then I was changing my oil and filter every 6k with motul specific 5W-40. Could they have used a different weight of oil that might simply be changing the way the motor feels?
It seems the idling vibration characteristics of my motor have changed, and I'd like to fix the issue if one exists to prevent future damage to the motor.
I got my 77 ford truck w/four wheel drive half ton with a np435, 351M and i was wondering if a bad or worn bearing can cause vibration. i can feel it by the pedal when i accelerate from 50 to 65. I don't know if that's my trans or maybe the pilot bearing?
View 10 RepliesMy wife and I recently bought a 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5 XT with an automatic transmission. Last week, we had the timing belt changed by a mechanic I've gone to for the past four years and trust a great deal. He changed the timing belt, drive belts, water pump, pulleys, tensioner and a few hoses, and everything seemed to go off without a hitch. After picking up the car, though, we noticed that the idle seemed much rougher than it had in the past. We can't tell if it's also rough during driving, or when the car is in park or neutral, but there is definitely considerably more vibration when the car is stopped in drive and idling--you can feel it throughout the car. I haven't noticed it until the car has warmed up.
I asked my brother, who is a mechanic in another state, if he had any thoughts, and he said it could be that the belt is off a notch, a vacuum leak or an unplugged sensor. I brought the car back to the mechanic today to see if it he could fix it, and he said that the CEL would be on if it was a vacuum leak or unplugged sensor, and that the car has an automatic idle that the belt change would not have adjusted. He asked if the vibration was getting any better, since when the battery was unplugged it would take the computer awhile to relearn the correct idle, but we've driven it a few hundred miles and it hasn't gotten any better. I left the car with him to take a look at it, but he just called and said he couldn't find anything wrong.
I want to chalk this up to us imagining something, but we both have no doubt that there has been considerably more vibration at least when the car is idling since we picked it up after the timing belt change. Is there anything else that it could be or that I should ask my mechanic?
2010 Corolla 1.8 automatic. Accelerating at highway speed (2800-3200) rpm a low frequency shudder/vibration is felt in the floorboards. Goes away of you let up off of gas pedal. No vibration at idle, runs fine all other times. Most noticeable when accelerating under load (ie going uphill) and at highway speed. Trans mount visually intact. Ditto engine mounts. Cv axles less than 1 year old no rattle upon shaking.
View 5 RepliesI'm the original owner at 50k miles with Ford ESP warranty. Drive-train still under original warranty. I started noticing a low growl hum noise and vibration felt on gas pedal when accelerating at about 40 MPH. At first I thought it was the road or tires.
Then a few weeks later on a slight hill the growl-low hum was accompanied with a much more noticeable/louder growl/grinding noise in a heartbeat like rhythm. Took it to dealer and they first said it was the transmission. It was replaced.
Then they said the noise was from the rear differential/axle. It was rebuilt, oiled and sealed. Taking it back today for another drive with the mechanic to show them again the problem persist. What it may be? Also, my MPG has dropped significantly from an average of 18 to 13. This is while driving on 4x4 Auto.
My car is a 2002 Accent. So last weekend I replaced my timing belt and my 3 other belts. Before I did this the belts were not squeaking and I was not having any issues with my power steering. I started my car up and the power steering pump was making lots of noise, the power steering reservoir was still full. I was told it's probably the power steering pump and that I would need a new one. So I got a new one, put it on and still the same thing. I looked online and saw that it may be an air bubble in the line so I removed the cap on the reservoir and, with the car turned off and the front wheels off the ground, cranked the wheels lock to lock about 20 times. I started the car and it still makes noise. This morning the power steering felt like it was lagging as I was backing out of my driveway and the squeaking happens when I am idling and gets louder and worse up to about 2000 rpm then stops, which it has been doing since I replaced the belts. I am not sure what else to do, did I mess up the new pump by driving and not bleeding the air out?
View 2 RepliesI have a new to me 2006 F150. The other day, looking under the hood while it was running, I noticed there was lots of sloshing going on in the power steering reservoir. I thought it was boiling for a minute, but it is seems to be just pumping around pretty much. Is that normal? I've never seen it before, but most of my vehicles either didn't have a transparent reservoir or were too dirty to see!
View 1 RepliesLess than a week of driving the GS, the power steering suddenly seemed to stop working. After starting the car, the steering felt heavy (actually a good thing) but near impossible to turn during a standing stop.
Good thing I still have warranty. What turned out to be causing this?
I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T Limited. The 1st. problem is in the steering. Low speeds driving around a parking lot I hear steering knocking noise when turning the steering wheel in either direction.
2nd problem when going over a little rough bumpy roads sounds like the front drivers side wheel is going to fall off. allot of banging noise felt into the steering wheel.
3rd problem sometimes when driving I hear a metal pop sound coming from under the rear of the car.
Had mine for 5K service and had them check alignment. Steering felt sluggish and wheel was a few degrees off center from the day it rolled off the lot.
Both front wheels had toe-in over 1/2". Makes you wonder if this is due to spring settling.
My 75 Corolla wagon (2T-C 4 speed, rear wheel drive) has developed a terrible shimmy that can be felt in the steering wheel and shifter, as well as the whole car. It only does this when I am in 3rd or 4th gear doing between 35-45 mph. Over the past few months this has gotten worse, and instead of being an intermittent thing (once a week or so) it happens every time I am in the 35-45 mph range.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2002 Ranger 2.3L 5spd w/ 16,000 miles. Have noticed this problem for 6 months, been to dealer 3 times now. They say nothing is wrong. What I am "feeling" more than hearing, is a slight knock in the steering wheel, particularly when driving over dips and mild to moderate bumps. This is usually when moving in a fairly straight line, not much tension on the wheel.
It reminds me of problems I had on much older cars/trucks when there was a loose shock/strut or play in a ball joint or tie rod. It is annoying because it feels like something is wrong. Dealer can't find anything. Perhaps something not installed properly that loosens and bumps/knocks into other components thereby transferring vibrations through the steering column?
I recently bought a 1998 f-250, regular cab, long bed, 4x4, 5.4l triton, automatic. The truck was involved in a wreck by the previous owner and I am trying to repair the damage. He hit some ice, slid off the road, and collided with a log cabin.
The visible damage was done to the driver side front. The bumper, grill/surround, header panel, headlight, turn signal, fender, and hood all need to be replaced. When you drive the truck there is a shimmy coming from the front that can be felt in the steering wheel. When going straight and releasing the steering wheel it pulls to the passenger side. The driver side front rim might be bent? Which might prove interesting if I have to replace it (7x150mm).
This is my first Ford truck. I was willing to take the gamble on fixing it up. I hope that it works out and I am able to do so. What years/models can I source these parts from?
Steering wise, it seems very likely that I'm due for a steering box. Lots of slop when I turned the wheels back and forth. Also, as per the seller, it seems like the the wheel bearings and ball joints are in good shape.
The sway bar end link bushings are smoked, so those need replacing. As for oil leaks. I'm thinking it would be best to pull the motor. It looks like this engine has had the pan off, but I do believe I have a front pain leak. The crank case breather is going into the intake which is annoying. And I believe the intercooler is full of oil, explaining the mystery oil leak by the passenger side intercooler boot.
Couldn't see any oil in the valley of the motor but I see oil coming down the down pipe of the exhaust, out the bell housing of the motor and dripping from a weep hole maybe 8 inches down the transmission as well? Seeing as to how I'm not sure what clutch I have, it make sense to pull the trans. And If I have the dreaded oil pan leak and a intercooler full of oil, why not just pull the motor? I'd also like to trim out the front panel for 05+ head lights and clean up the wiring on this thing. Found a cheesy electric compressor for a small horn. Sounds like a clown horn, no kidding.
I test drove the sc 430 the other day, I found it very smooth and very soft ride. I noticed that when I accelerate the car feels heavy as if it lacks the torque. Is this normal?
Also, the steering felt loose at high speeds above 60mph. Is this normal?