Golf/GTI VII :: Buzzing Sound Around 2300 - 3000 Rpms Mostly During Deceleration
Feb 21, 2015
Manual... I hear this buzzing sound, mostly during deceleration, on 2nd, 3rd or 4th gears between 2300-3000rpms, very annoying on 2nd and 3rd gears, but can still somewhat noticeable on 4th gear. Can also hear it on acceleration, sometimes on 2nd and 3rd gear, silent on 4th gear.
I've turned off soundaktor thru VCDS, but still hearing this sound so I was thinking that the hockey puck is still spinning, albeit not as annoying as when it's 100%. So I tried to disconnect it, still hearing that buzzing sound. I even removed all stuff from my car and it's still buzzing. Really annoying, specially if you just want to hear the sound of the engine braking on deceleration.
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My 1994 Acura Integra makes a buzzing noise exactly between 3000 and 3500 RPMS. It sounds kind of like the sound a circular saw would make cutting wood. It only happens when I am accelerating through that range. Also, sometimes after driving for a while, it doesn't last as long and the noise stops around 3300 RPMS. I've checked the heat shield and it seems to be fine so I don't think its that. What this could be caused by?
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I have a 2000 Jetta VR6 12v. I'm having an issue with backfiring. Also, I am having a severe issue with bucking. Sometimes it will not happen at all, and when it does happen it can occur from 2300-5500 RPMs. No matter how hard or soft I am on the throttle, it will hit this point, different everytime, and the throttle will cut out, then pick up, then cut out, then pick up.
Now, I know my MAF is throwing a few codes. But it was throwing codes for a month before this started, maybe longer,and the only symptoms were backfiring and a little lag at startup. However, the same night my issue began, I also developed a coolant leak. Upon inspection, the coolant leak path was traveling directly over my CKP sensor where it connects to the engine block, which also began throwing a code. The car starts fine, idles fine, and never stalls or dies. So my options here are replace the MAF if that seems likely to be the issue, or to attempt using liquid electrical tape to prevent the leak from hitting my CKP sensor.
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When the engine is in gears say 1-3 (doesn't seem to work in neutral or park) when the engine rev's to about 2500 - 3000 RPM there's a metallic vibrating noise that almost sounds like a buzzing/chattering sound. When you reach over 3000, it goes away.
Here's the curve ball - it stops doing this when the engine is really warm. It only seems to do it when cold or it's been sitting a while. So - it's limited to an RPM range between gears 1-3, it goes away when it's warm.
I am inclined to think this is related to engine mounts... And here's why. It seems to only happen when in gear and we know that the engine changes it's pitch/stance when in different gears versus in neutral/park. So I think when it's in gears 1-3, the engine is tilted a bit and something is coming into contact with something (maybe my strut bar) more than it used to due to more slop/movement from my worn out engine mounts. As to why it goes away when the engine is really hot (driven for an hour or so) is because maybe whatever it is that's coming into contact with something else is (perhaps a hose and its clamp?) is much more pliable while warm and clears whatever obstruction it was hitting while cold? (a lot of speculation and creative thinking here).
Anyway - after the engine is super warm and I've been driving it I cannot for the life of me get it to do it... It rev's super smooth and not a hint of any bad sound.... 2011 2.0T Limited ....
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Ok so a little back story, I have CEL codes 17748 & 17755 which basically tell me that I have a stretched timing chain. That being said, others say they have the same codes and their car runs like a champ and makes full power. Not sure the truth to that but whatever. Regardless, I don't know how a stretched chain would cause a sudden surge of power at certain rpm, but I do not know the ins and outs of this engine and ECU.
So, for some reason my car feels fine when driving around at low rpms, but when I take it above 3000 rpm or so with mild throttle, it feels a little weak. Now if I am giving it moderate throttle, once I hit the 3000 rpm range, all of the sudden I can hear my intake get louder and there is a sudden surge of power. Furthermore, it feels to me like as the rpms get higher, like over 4500-5000 range, the car feels pretty weak. I am not sure how the car should feel though because this problem has been like this since I bought it. I am pretty sure it's not making full power though.
I can see how stretched chains could lead to being out of timing which could mean low power up top, even though I don't know why the variable cam gears couldn't make up for this.. but what's up with this power surge thing?
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I bought a 2006 F-350 4WD Lariat SRW with a little over 200,000 miles on it. The truck seems to run perfectly, except when pulling a load (9,000-10,000 lbs) down the interstate/highway. Sometimes, when pulling above 65-70 mph for an extended period of time (45 minutes to an hour) the truck will all of a sudden idle down and won't get above 2300-2500 RPMs (even if you put it in neutral and floor it). It's not enough to shut it down, but it won't let the truck accelerate as fast as normal. Killing the truck and cranking it back makes it go back to running normal for a little while, but the periods of it acting up get shorter after each killing and restarting. I took it to the Ford place while it was acting up, and they thought it was a turbo problem. They cleaned the turbo and said everything looked fine, but the same problem arose after leaving the shop. They've been stumped at 3 different Ford shops, but one said there's a 95% chance a new turbo would fix the problem. What might be wrong?
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I've been getting a blinking engine check light.. I pulled all the codes:
P0050: H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
P0155: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sen 1
P0304: cylinder 4 Misfire detected
P0688: ECM/PCM Power relay sensor circuit
I've had the car sitting for awhile because I lost my job and didn't have any money to roll it around much.
I just changed out the spark plugs and two of these had a white coating on them.. I was hoping this would take care of the misfire after I replaced them. I also bought a new battery because mine had lost charge a few times.
The Car will run with an engine check light, but if I go past 2500-3000 rpms then it will start blinking (which means don't drive it )
The oil has been sitting in it for about 2 months, so I'm about to go change that and I'm hoping this will allow me to drive it without issues.
Any of these codes thrown and know what they could be? Which O2 sensor (like a link to a website that sells them). Trying to get this thing running again.
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I have a golf mk4 1.8T AGU, about one week after i had my k04-023 turbo on and all the Stuff that comes along it started "stall" (don't know if its the right word??) in the High gears, most 5th gear but it first start doing it when i hit boost (3000rpm)
I runs on Stock n75 valve.. I though i could be a boost problem, maybe the Stock system cant handle it? I did install a boost gauge to see if it was the was the problem, and it dont Seem like it. In first it runs from 1.4 bar and drops to 1.2. Same in second and third. But in 4 and 5th it goes to 1.7 bar and drops to 1.4.. I did wonder it maybe the n75 valve cant handle 1.7 bar??
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At the beginning December I put my brand new winter tires (general altimax arctics) on the factory steelies and put them on the car gearing up for the snow. Not to long after the install I notice that I was getting a very strong engine vibration starting at 3,000 rpms and it stopped around 3,100 rpms no matter what gear I was in. At first I though it maybe just the cold affecting the engine. Well...
Last week I put my summer rims and tires back on for the 1,600 mile trip to MO and back, and like magic, no more heavy vibrations. Smooth acceleration throughout the normal driving rpm range. I just changed the oil and tranny fluids Tuesday after we got back and with the warmer weather the car is running smooth as silk. Still an awesome car with awesome mileage and couldn't be happier.
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Alright so car is a 13 R, bolt ons, c2 stage 2+. Drove the car yesterday morning all was good. Did an oil change and fixed my cts DV (the top nozzle had popped out, i glued around it as cts had suggested to hold it in place). At first the car was making an odd "weeee ooooo" sound on accel/decel. I went home, rechecked all couplers, vacuum hoses etc. then went for another drive, there is absolutely no boost. Car drives likes its naturally aspirated, no attempt to even go into boost just nothing. Ran vag com, no codes.
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Second gear, I am going 40mph and I let off the throttle and start engine breaking. My exhaust burbles and crackle a LOT. Now, I love the sound. But just want to make sure it is normal. I just took my rear seats out, so I am not sure if it is louder / there because of that, or its just a coincidence.
I read a thread a while back where a fellas intake changeover failed and it started doing that really loud as well.
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Bought a Jetta GLI 2004.5 in January. 94K miles. No noises accelerating or while coasting (clutch or neutral). However, when I decelerate in 3rd and 4th gear w/ no foot on gas, there is a very apparent whirring sound from the front-end (maybe in the engine bay). But I don't hear it while decelerating in any other gears. What is the cause? I will try and capture sound later when I get home. Just wanted to see if this was a common fault.
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I have a whistle sound mostly upon decel when the engine was cold. I have the APR down pipe installed. Today it's doing it all the time even when warm. I took the car to the dealer and they said it was prolly an exhaust leak. I took the car to my friends shop and we put the car up on the lift and listened from underneath. It sounded like the turbo was echoing in the down pipe. Sometimes when it's cold it can be very loud. So my question is if this is normal with the APR down pipe or with this turbo or is this a sign that I have a turbo failure coming?
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Started getting a whirring / rubbing sound during deceleration and took it into dealer for diagnostics. They said driveshaft needs replacement. Fortunately they are covering under warranty but it's got me concerned about longevity.
I've got an APR Stage 1 ECU upgrade but otherwise stock. Not a track car and i'm not moonlighting at the drag strip dropping the clutch at 5000 RPMs to try and make into the 11's so am baffled by the issue.
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I have recently found what sounds like a grinding/vibration issue that occurs between ~2100-~2300 RPM's in my truck. After some googling, I thought it may be the inspection plate being a bit bent/loose. I took the cover off and drove around and the noise still occurred.
Things I have noticed:
-Occurs between 1-2 and 2-3 (had trouble with the other gear changeovers as I just have slow backroads around me to test over my lunch break- can test further in the future)
-Occurs during acceleration and deceleration
-Starts at ~2100 and ends ~2300 RPM
Any thoughts for next steps to diagnose? Truck has ~160k on it and I don't really have many service records (purchased within the past 3k miles and problem just started occurring after this past weekend). Transmission fluid seems to be in decent condition.
Not sure if it would affect anything, but I just got back from my first trip with the Excursion where I actually needed to utilize the 4WD. There was much more aggressive terrain than what it is used to seeing on the pavement. Thought I should mention that as well.
V10, if that matters (I recall reading somewhere that '99 7.3s with the auto had documented torque converter issues that warranted a TSB)....
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My CW R has 12k of combined mileage primarily in D/S with some aggressive Topanga Canyon driving in M. While sprinting onto the 405 the other night a resonant metallic buzz/vibration was audible between 4800-5000rpms in 3rd & 4th gear! The sound is coming from below the shifter console area. I can't reproduce it in any other gears or rpm range.
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I have a 2002 Jetta GLS 2.0 4-speed automatic, 151,xxx miles... I have only owned it a couple of thousand miles, so I can't offer much on what is "normal"...
The issue I am having is as follows: I sometimes get a strange buzzing/hissing noise that sounds like it is coming from the engine compartment ~45 degrees to my right while driving. It's very hard to describe - the best I can say is it sounds a bit like a little plastic gear is spinning/grinding at high rpms, yielding a buzzing noise, and there is a hissing-like sound as a backdrop.
The sound happens only occasionally (but seems to be happening much more frequently, which is worrisome). I have heard the sound in different driving scenarios, so I can't say "it only happens when...". However, it DOES seem to be sensitive to throttle and driving conditions in some way. I have heard it while a shift is taking place, I have heard it under load on a long incline, and I tend to hear it right around 60mph. Interestingly, in the 60mph example, can make the sound go away by accelerating past 65, or by decelerating down to ~50... it seems like there is some kind of transition taking place at 60 that fosters the sound?
The transmission is generally functional - I had the fluid changed right after buying it (with the correct fluid), and it generally shifts ok. It does have some of the quirky behavior the transmission is known for: occasionally hesitates to go from R to D, sometimes shifts while driving are less subtle than they should be. But I'd say as a whole it operates as a 4-speed transmission would be expected to.
However, since this strange noise is getting worse, and seems to be related to shifts/load/andor speed in some way... I am worried about trans health. What to check? Because it is intermittent, and doesn't exist at idle and rarely appears when going around the block good luck getting a mechanic to observe it...
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Having metal-on-metal loud sound coming from underneath the passenger seat (basically) at higher rpms? It sounds like it might be a heat shield or loose piece of the exhaust but I looked underneath and saw nothing out of the ordinary. It seems to be getting worse, so I am assuming its not supposed to sound this way.
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Let's say I'm going from zero to forty, my RPMs will hit over 3000, but when it shifts, the RPMS will drop down to 2000-ish really hard, making the car jerk. It's not a smooth drop, it's like a split second. Upon acceleration there is also a very rapid knocking sound. There's no lights on my instrument cluster.
This trouble all started after I had my alternator die, then having the car towed a few months back. Ever since then this problem has been getting worse. Wat this could be?
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I just got my R32 less than a week ago, and recently I noticed this buzzing sound coming from the rear of the car. I did some searching around on here and found 1 post that refers to this sound, and says it could possibly one of the fuel pumps. Should I bring it in for service..or is this normal?
Also...what is the best intake for a 08 R32, whats some of the best websites to order parts from?
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I have a 2001 accent with a 1.6 .... It won't rev over 3000rpm's. It does not have any codes being set. If I unplug the IAC it will rev up just like normal. I tried replacing the IAC, TPS, and swapped ECM and nothing has changed it. I tested continuity of the IAC circuit to ECM and it tests good. Tested ground circuit and it tests good. Have correct voltage at sensor. Not sure what else to look at.
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