In stop and go traffic , it happened twice today, I slow down almost to a stop and accelerate, the RPM goes way above 5000, it seems it holds in gear 1 or 2 can't be sure and does not want to shift. I had to shift using paddle shifter. Is this a real problem or am I doing something wrong. ?
View 6 RepliesI recently purchased a 2012 Golf Sportline 2.5 auto. I also currently own a 2006 Jetta and 2008 Rabbit both 2.5 automatics. Both older cars run and drive great with this engine and tranny combination for me. However with the 2012 I really notice a throttle delay when accelerating from a stop and a very early shift into 6th gear when in the gear selector is in drive mode causing engine lugging. Shifts into 6'th at 60 kph doing 1100 RPM.
This I find is very annoying compared to my other two VW's which have better throttle response and shift a little later into 6'th allowing the engine to turn at 1400 RPM allowing for better acceleration without having to kick it down a gear.
I have taken it back to the dealer hoping for a ECM flash update but nothing is available from VW and my vehicle ECM has all other current settings and updates. I ve looked into aftermarket solutions such as the Sprint Booster which allows for a more responsive pedal but based on my other VW's my 2012 should not preform like this.
My 2005 Accent began making an odd clicking sound about two years ago when I would decrease my speed, not using the brakes. It wasn't loud, just annoying. It went on for some time until my car went into the shop to have the alternator replaced. I explained the noise to the mechanic and they checked it out. They explained they added some type of cleaning fluid somewhere under the hood, and the sound was gone. I was thrilled.
Last year, the sound returned again. Annoyed, I began saving to bring it in to the shop again. In Feb 2013, I had my timing belt and water pump replaced because my mileage of course called for it. The mechanic said he could not hear the clicking sound I was reporting (I really didn't see how.)
Two months later in April, my car decided to die on me and after 5 months I just recently got it up and running again. My differential and transmission were both completely rebuilt. Also, my CV axles have both been replaced. Now that I have my car back, the clicking sound is louder than before and also now happens when I accelerate as well. The faster I go, the faster the clicking gets until it eventually stops. When I slow down, the clicking starts again until I hit my brakes.
I want to take my car and get this noise silenced once and for all since they didn't hear it when my transmission was done last month. What fluid may have been added to what part 2 years ago when this was handled initially?
I just bought a new Accent. It seems to slow it's self down at low speed when not accelerating. In other words, it does'nt coast freely. Could this be a sticking brake caliper or a transaxle problem? Could it be related to the slippery road condtions feature on/off?
View 12 RepliesAre the mounts on the engine not tight enough? It feels rather strange. My dad's Ford Explorer doesn't do that. I feel like I'm driving a car with a manual transmission that needs to have dogbone bushings and mounts upgraded. How do I bring this to dealership's attention without appear like a complete loony? They like to give the "Could not duplicate" response when there is an obvious symptom.
View 10 RepliesI was driving the car yesterday and was getting on the highway ramp and stepped on the gas and car went crazy. It started to accelerate and decelerate by itself. I had no control of the car whatsoever. When driving at 0 to 40mph no problem so far, but anything over this car will jerk, like it's changing gears by itself, 'going fast and slow.'What is this? Do I need a fuel filter, or plugs or what? I don't know when the last time I changed anything the car mileage is 135,000
View 1 RepliesI drive 07'es350 and I have felt jerks while driving usually when accelerating or slowing down from speed. Did check with dealer before for transmission after analysis by technician he said it is perfect, recently read on internet and saw fuel filter can be an issue but when called the dealer he said filter is in gas tank and it is lifelong. Not sure what kind of diagnosis I should do to find the issue.
View 13 RepliesMy daughter's 2004 Camry V6 has been hesitating when starting from a stationary position or when accelerating after slowing down. Dealer has been having hard time identifying cause but thinks it is an oxygen sensor. Had one sensor replaced last fall when light came on. Tech Rep says there are four sensors. At least one is bad but the other two sensors may also be bad. Is there really four oxygen sensors in the 2004 Camry? Would this cause the hesitation when accelerating?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 1.8 Turbo VW GTI. Lately I've noticed that the car would hesitate slightly when slowing down. It would go up to at least 5000 RPM's or higher before it shifted over. The hesitation when slowing down and accelerating tend to happen when I drive. What to do, I went to the vw company they said if i want to change the transmission would cost me ~6k$ and f*ck me twice if if am paying 6k on a 2002 car.
View 3 RepliesMy AC is slowing down and needed diagnostics. Fan system is fine. So I hooked up my manifold guage set from HF and got 90 on both high and low static, and 35/175 under load. Temp was 83 Fahrenheit with 36% humidity.
My diagnosis - refrigerant low. (i.e. low/low)
So what kind of quantity can I assume I'm down? Do these german ac run on the high side? I'm going to pour in the PAG 46 myself through the yellow line, and that runs roughly 5 to 1 to the refrigerant. NO SEALANT. Just a 12 ounce can of 134a and 3 ounces of PAG 46.
Just to verify - it is PAG 46 for the 2004 Jetta 2.0 GLS?
I have a 1993 Chevy Silverado, 350, 2WD. It has a 4L60E transmission. I just started having a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd. When accelerating the RPM's go way up and won't shift until I let off the throttle. Then it shifts into all other gears normally.
If I accelerate slowly. it will shift into 2nd at about 16 MPH. It will then shift into all other gears normally. I have replaced the Throttle Position Sensor, flushed the transmission and replaced the filter and fluid. This made know change in performance.
I am now suspecting that it might be the 1-2 shift solenoid. The check engine light is not on and everything else works fine.
Experienced a rough shift (accelerating or decelerating) in 2005 - 2007 ford / mercury 500/Montego/Fusion/Milan with the aisin 6 speed transmission? What is the source of the trouble and has Ford acknowledged a problem?
View 2 RepliesIve got a 2000 4x4 F-150 with a 4.6 and a 4r70w. The transmission and transfercase were replaced by the P.O aprox 2,000 miles before i bought it..
i was driving it today, and while accelerating it missed a shift into 3rd, then nothing no forward or reverse, i sat and messed with the gears for a while then suddenly it shifted into 1st now it drives with a slight resistance, revs up to about 3K before shifting and shifts HARD up and down, and i cannot get over 40 mph its at about 2800 rpms and feels like im hitting a rev limiter wont shift again and wont accelerate anymore..
When at that speed I hit the OD off and it downshifts so i think i still have od?
So this has happened multiple times now. its always when I'm slowing down or at a stop. I have Apr stage 3 software with rfd. I ran the car for codes a couple of weeks ago and there were none. its a little scary since its done it at highway speeds when in neutral and the revs have dropped out. I still have ignition/terminal 15 power but the engine is no longer running. today I was at a stop light and the car died out. it took several attempts cranking it over to get it started, I was in busy traffic and it got a little worrisome. also I'm driving my kid around and can't have this happen anymore. Without any faults I'm not sure where to start since I don't have factory software.
View 24 RepliesMy wife's Jetta slows down for a sec or so while driving. I've noticed it when you in 5th gear and just cruising down the road. it almost feels like the brakes are being applied a little for just a sec then it goes away but it will keep doing it every now and then. I cant make it do it. It just does it. I don't know if it would do it in any other gear cause i'm just accelerating and not staying at a constant speed so it might but you cant tell. the car seems to run well. My wife drives it a lot more than me so she complains all the time! gotta get it fixed!
Also, I believe the heater core is leaking. you can smell antifreeze when the heater is running slightly. And she says, but i have not seen this yet that the abs and the other traction light or whatever that are on the dash that has been on since we've bought the car, shut off and the brakes feel like they are not working...that's what she told me so I'm not sure how to explain it but want to mention incase it has something to do with the first prob! they come back on and everything is normal ...well with the brakes anyway.
I have a boost gauge that i want to put on just to make sure it's making boost. it doesn't seem as fast as it did but i don't drive it every day either. the motor is stock with a 2 1/2" exhaust with a 2 chamber Flowmaster from the turbo back so the engine light comes on but i just checked and they codes are for that missing cat
My anti-lock brakes keep activating when i am slowing down from a speed above 10 mph once i reach a mphh. I have just installed koni sports on the front and bg springs all around with 20mm wheels spacers in the rear. The sound is coming from the driver side wheel and i can feel the brake pedal reacting in the way it does when the anti-lock brakes are activating. I haven't had a chance to take the wheel back of and check the sensors and wires.
It makes a grinding and popping kind of noise, which again remind me of anti-lock brakes.
I have a 02 gti with 1.8t and tiptronic trans. Anyways my gf said she was driving and traction light/battery light came on car started slowing down when she tried to accelerate. Said brakes were stuff to and car shut off..what would cause this. I had a maf code over the weekend i cleared.
View 17 RepliesOn my 2006 Azera Limited with about 27,000 miles on it. Occasional hard shift issue. Normally the car is only driven 10 miles a day to and from work no problem. But on longer trips have hard a few instances of hard shift.
The first time this hard shift bump occurred was when I was driving on city streets 2 minutes after getting off the freeway after a 2 hour drive. On a scale of 1-10 this was a #5 bump like feel followed by a #3 bump in the next few minutes while accelerating from a signal light. There were no further bumps that day, even after another 2 freeway drive.
The second time the #3 bump happened was on an on ramp after a 3 hour freeway drive and a short rest stop. No further bumps that day even after another 3 hour freeway drive.
The last time this #3 bump happened was on a city street after a 45 minute freeway drive. No further bumps on the return trip. I am not sure which gears this bump happens between.
I have no MIL set. So I took it too a transmission shop and they could not find anything wrong but said there was a code C1616 CAN Bus Off Failure. His opinion was that this problem maybe an electrical issue.
So as the title states I'm getting a rear whine sounds more like a dump truck slowing down, anytime I go over 45 mph. I have an appointment tomorrow morning with VW to get it diagnosed and hopefully fixed.
I've checked and properly inflated my tires and there is still decent tread left. As far as I've seen it could be the rear diff or harmonic balancer.
I recently got my car tuned (apr stg I) and I'm lowered on neuspeed race springs with matched bilsteins. I doubt either of those would have any impact on my issue though.
Looking for some hint regarding V6 AUE ? Regardless if engine is warm or cold, sometimes happens to me that during driving, while slowing down and pressing on clutch pedal, revs just drop down to 0 and engine shuts down (vehicle still moving). This usually happens while changing gears from 3rd to 2nd on low speeds in city, or while slowing down to full stop in 2nd gear and pressing clutch pedal.
While this happens, I quickly switch off the ignition and start the engine again, which is tricky and potentially dangerous, since vehicle is still moving but my power steering and brakes are not functioning because of stopped engine.
Some relevant info...I have K&N cone air filter intake and ECU is remapped by BTS Racing (German tuning house).
Car is running and pulling normally. In all other regimes of driving, there are no issues or whatsoever.
2003 F150 XLT 7700 4x4 5.4 Triton. While accelerating normally from a stop the transmission? shifts into 2nd with a heavy jerk. All other gears normal. It doesn't do this under hard acceleration or under very gentle and slow throttle application. Is this a COP issue, a transmission issue or just a driving style thing?
View 7 Replies