I took off my inner axle to drop my control arm and remove my strut, but when I go to try and put it back in it doesn't reach. Is there something that I'm forgetting to do?
View 3 RepliesI'm almost 99% positive I need to replace my Drivers Front Axle Assembly. I can feel it "click" when I reverse down my drive way and at low speeds regardless whether I turn the wheel. However, at street speeds, you can no longer feel it. I wanted to know if all Axles aftermarket are created equal.
Can I go with the one from ECS : [URL] ..... Or is this a part where staying OEM is important?
Car has been making da da da da da noise from the rear for the past week or 2. The noise is consistent with the wheel speed and I can heard it clearly when I am next to barrier or a truck or something the sound will pounce off it. I drop the car off, later they told me the drive shaft is vibrating a lot and it might go.
View 8 RepliesIs it bad shifting from drive to neutral then back to drive going 40mph without pressing on the gas only coasting on a daily bases?
2008 Sonata GLS ... Automatic transmission ...
So I went to rotate my tires today and noticed grease around the inside of the rim to which i then noticed that my Drive Axle Boots are ripped. I noticed the grease around the wheel well last time I changed my oil and thought it was something I drove through. I guess Not How much should this job cost? I called the mechanic and he said because there is no "clicking" noise when I turn that he can replace the boots and add grease and it should be fine but that job will cost $500, $250 for each side. Should I stop driving the car right away?
View 13 RepliesSo lifted my Manual 1.8t B5 onto jack stands to start some serious work on it. Found that lower rear control arm had gone "significantly bad" and the right drive axle shaft had pulled out of the outer CV joint. Needed to warm up the oil before draining it so put the car in neutral and started the engine. Went outside to check on something and WOAH, the right drive axle that had come apart from the CV joint was slowly turning WHILE IN NEUTRAL. The left drive axle that is still attached to the outer CV joint and with the tire attached but off the ground is standing still.
I can grab that spinning drive shaft and it stops but I can still feel it vibrating. Let me reiterate, the left side is doing nothing and the right side spins while in neutral.
Is this normal? This doesn't seem possible. Is it just that there is insufficient friction without the outer CV joint to keep it from spinning, ie. even though in neutral there is sufficient friction on the flywheel from the clutch plate to give torque on the driveshaft. But what I don't understand is how the right one can turn like that while the left one doesn't. It would seem that something else is going on.
I guess a car's one tire can be spinning on ice while the other does not. It is just strange that this is happening in neutral.
I have a 2003 3.5 liter, AWD and I'm attempting to remove and replace the drive axle on the passenger side. I have the one end out of the hub, but the transmission end will not come out. I removed the bolts holding the bearing plate, and have been trying to pry out the axle with no luck.
View 3 RepliesMy Front axle wont go back in! It kinda was a pain to remove too; but getting it back in is like mission impossible! I've tried turning the driveshaft, the other wheel, all kinds of stuff short if beating it with a hammer.
In an hour or so I am going to take off the diff cover and see if there is anything obvious, Id rather not but... I took it apart due to noises I was hearing up front on that axle / hub. I have all new seals and such just in case anything needed it.
Its a automatic transmission with a v6 4.3 vortec. The front axle will not engage, it is not the acuator (I replaced it and the cable) you can pull the cable and the axle will engage. There is a low buzzing noise(coming from the drivers side) until you give it gas. This noise stops when the front axle is engaged. The transfer case will go from hi to low without any problems.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Santa Fe crdi automaticl. When I push the 4 wheel drive button, the light in the dash goes on but the axels do not lock up. There is no code number that show up. Is this a sensor problem or what?
View 1 RepliesI have the dreaded click-click-click noise when turning that is indicative of my CV joint going tits up. Checking it out the boot is split and there is some grease. So, I plan on going ahead and changing both sides drive axles out, since the Camry has 178k on it (yeah, 178k on a 2009.)
View 14 RepliesI just had my right drive axle replaced on my 1992 accord today at a mechanic chain store. I have notice fluid leaking/dripping from where the axle and transmission meet. What is occurring? Could it be they didn't replaced any seals or the axle is a wrong fit. Its a manual transmission by the way.
View 6 RepliesWhat size socket I need to remove the driveaxle hub bolts from this car? I can see the bolts are considerably larger than the socket I have for my Ford Tauruses, and I would like to eliminate the guess work before I go to carquest to get the proper socket. Unfortunately bringing the car to the store and trying sockets until I get one that fits is not an option, since the car is not running right now.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo that has me stumped as to why it leaks. The driver side axle seal leaks fluid only after a drive. I have replaced the axle twice and seal 6 times and it still leaks. I am stumped on this one. Unless I got a bad axle twice that the diameter of the sealing surface is too small but didn't seem like it as the seal hugs the shaft.
View 4 RepliesI am a new 6.7 owner and had/ have a 7.3 As I have been getting to know the truck I have been under it and noticed that the front drive shaft and axle are locked in. My hubs are switched to auto but I know on my 2000 7.3 when my hubs are on auto my front axle and driveshaft are disengaged... I'm wondering if the new 4x4 system is different. I know that can save on MPG
View 6 RepliesSo after installing my JoeZ axle back for about 5k miles I noticed there was an issue. The check engine light was going on but turning off randomly. I finally decided to take the car to the dealer for them to check out. So what the dealer said is that the JoeZ exhaust "direct bolt-on bolts" restricted flexibility and caused leaks in the front cats. He said that the stock exhaust screws had the springs on it to allow flexibility when hitting dips/potholes. With that said, He recommended switching the front two gaskets and using the stock "spring screws."
I was wondering, encountered this problem with the bolts that came with the JoeZ axle back? I bought the JoeZ off a user here and it came with bolts, which i assumed came with the exhaust when it was purchased new. Not even sure if the bolts he gave me was correct, or if i just made the mistake of not using stock bolts.
Today I took the bed off of my 99 ranger. I was sitting on the cab looking down at the rear axle noticed the drive shaft was not entering the rear diff perfectly straight. As I looked further into it, I noticed the distance between the rear spring on the passenger side tire, is noticeably different. To visualize it, the wheel, at the bumper side of the axle, has a shorter distance between it and the leafs than the cab side. Not massive, but a few inches, and it's noticeable now that I can stand over it. I'm beginning to be very annoyed by this truck and it's previous owners, whom I take it , scammed my brother quite well with a $5k tag for a truck with so much not right with it. It's about to become my yard art for awhile.
View 8 RepliesI have a 98 F250LD, its a Lariat, so everything electric/auto. Shift on the Fly 4x4, 5.4, 188K, Factory rear air suspension. Typical Minnesota rust. Anyway, I just noticed in the last 75 miles or so, a drive-line vibration. There is nothing until 39 MPH. Then from 39-41 MPH there is a decent vibration. Stops until 50, then from 50 MPH up it is a steady vibration. I have already changed the u-joints in the rear shaft. I have pulled/wiggled on everything else I can think of with no luck of finding of anything loose.
One thing I did notice, is that the front axle is locked in all the time. How long it has been like this: years for all I know... I can flip the switch from 2wd to 4H and 4L. It all seems to work fine, I hear clicking, the 4x4 engages, the proper lights come on/off. The front axle will pull when supposed to. The transfer case seems to be working fine, but the front axle won't disengage. I am hoping this can be fixed cheaply/easily (DIYer), and also hoping this explains my low fuel mileage.
Front axle? Where to look or what to try and fix for the vibration?
Recently I've noticed that every time when shifting from park to drive and occasionally from reverse to drive in my 05 Golf GLS, I would have to remain off the gas for 3-4 seconds otherwise the car would jerk forward. If I press on the gas ever so slightly, the rpm would go up to around 1000 then jerk. Why this is happening?
View 2 RepliesIs it normal for the GX 470 to roll backward on a slight hill when in drive and foot off the brake?
View 3 RepliesEarly senility or perhaps just a busy mind has led me to turn off the ignition key before shifting from drive back to park. This is obviously not natural for the car but it did not seem to do any harm. I am wondering however if it can be damaged by this?
View 6 Replies