Golf/GTI VII :: Vibrations Underneath Seat Accompanied With Engine Shake
May 24, 2015
I have about 2500 miles on my manual MK7 GTI (bought it with about 70 dealership miles) and ever since I got it it's been having these weird little backfires/slight sputtering while idling.
I'll be idling at a stoplight, and I'll feel a few little kicks/vibrations underneath my seat accompanied with a light engine shake. It's very hard to describe, but it's been bothering me since I got it, as none of my other cars have done it and I don't know what is causing it.
I have always pumped 93 octane gas and even made sure the dealership pumped 93 octane when they gave me the free tank. Not sure what they pumped before that.
I went to a Mobil gas station last night to top off my tank (a little under 1/2 full) and no later than 5 minutes after pulling away from the gas station, I was cruising in 4th gear at around 40-45 mph when I felt the engine sputter. It was only for a brief second or two, but I clearly felt the engine sputter then pick itself back up. This happened another 2-3 times on the way home.
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Experiencing slight vibrations in the seat, and steering wheel past 60 mph on the stock wheel & tire set up? I've got about 10k miles on my Pirellis and am thinking that all the winter driving (potholes) have knocked them out of balance. The VW dealer claims they balance fine, but I can feel the vibrations. Just wondering how everyone else is liking their stock set up.. Maybe a wheel has a slight bend? Nothing I can notice from a quick glance tho.
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Having metal-on-metal loud sound coming from underneath the passenger seat (basically) at higher rpms? It sounds like it might be a heat shield or loose piece of the exhaust but I looked underneath and saw nothing out of the ordinary. It seems to be getting worse, so I am assuming its not supposed to sound this way.
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Ever since I put in my stage 2 BFI mounts I've had pretty bad vibration at 2800rpm. After over 5,000 miles, these are the symptoms:
Some times are worse than others. I will be cruising at 2800rpm and my dash will be rattling. If I lift off the throttle and re-apply it, the vibration could lessen and stop dash rattling. I think once I hit a bump while maintaining 2800 and the vibration became less severe, almost as if the bump "sync'd" whatever was vibrating.Seems to be worst when engine braking. Causes dimple dash to rattle loudly against front dash area and rear view mirror shakes...vibrates when the car is in gear or in neutral
I'm leaning towards flywheel based on what I've read. Before I replace clutch/flywheel, what could be causing it?
Also curious what labor might cost on clutch/flywheel replacement, and if the "shim" kit thing is necessary to do for a stock setup. The shop is recommending machining something in there to fix the play issues with 02m?
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I purchased a new 2015 Toyota Corolla this last June. While installing car seat covers this weekend, I lifted up the backseat and saw a good deal of rust on the hinges and bar that's bolted to the floor. The bolts are shiny and look new. I'm waiting for a call back from the dealership, but wanted to know if this is normal.
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Noticed seat vibrations when fully stopped? My 2013 has a sweet spot where the needle hits *just barely* under 750rpm when stopped at a light or something, where it doesn't vibrate at all. Anything even a smidgen over or under that and the seats and sometimes even the steering wheel vibrate. It's pretty random. One set of lights and I'm vibrating, the next set of lights not far down the road and no vibrations.
Also when I'm idling or stopped and I want to roll a window up or down, the whole car will shake, RPMs will dip a bit too.
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I've got a GTI with a lot of engine vibrations, and I'm not sure if it's something to worry about or even if it's somewhat normal. I have 23,000 miles, Stage II for most of that. My motor ticks obviously but they all do. The idle is smooth (mostly, the needle never fluctuates it's idling at a specific RPM perfectly) but I feel little hiccups and inconsistencies in my steering wheel at a stop light.
Could this be bad motor mounts? Could this be a valvetrain issue? Is there any way to debug this?
I first noticed the issue (it might have been happening beforehand, but never noticed it) after getting my 20k dealer service. Until then I was changing my oil and filter every 6k with motul specific 5W-40. Could they have used a different weight of oil that might simply be changing the way the motor feels?
It seems the idling vibration characteristics of my motor have changed, and I'd like to fix the issue if one exists to prevent future damage to the motor.
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I just got a 2000 V6 Passat Wagon. The CEL light was on when I got it though I bought it knowing this. The battery was bad when I got it and I replaced it. After installing the new battery . . .. . starting worked only intermittently. It got worse and at one point I had to hold the key to the start position for about 5 seconds before the starter would even engage. Now it won't start at all. I pulled the codes (shown below) when I first got it but did not give it much credence . . . I wanted to clear the codes and drive it and re-look at the codes. . . . but I have not been able to drive it.
Other observances. . .. not sure if they are related to the car not starting:
Windows, sunroof do not roll up/down while electronic locks work. The driver side window was down when I got it and I read somewhere on this forum to use the key to raise it. . .. it worked. Alarm does not work. Radio works. . . . I found it odd that though the battery was taken out for more than 12 hrs. . . . The radio code was not required. Dome light works intermittently.
I have checked every fuse and they are all good.
Engine Codes:
18032P1624MIL Request Sign.active
18011P1603Internal Control Module Malfunction
18010P1602Power Supply (B+) Terminal 30 Low Voltage
16684P0300Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
16690P0306Cyl.6 Misfire Detected
16686P0302Cyl.2 Misfire Detected
Transmission Codes:
17142P0758Shift Solenoid B Electrical
18158P1750Power Supply Voltage Low Voltage
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My car shakes pretty good when shutting off the car plus when stopped when in park or neutral. Bought this car used with 3k, so I am not original owner. I believe (without looking) that I own #3887.
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I've had my 2010 GTI for 8 months now and have really only had one issue with it. When I start the car, it shakes before I start moving. Like, the steering wheel, body, pedals, gearshift, etc... It's not a violent shake, but definitely something I've never noticed in any other car I've owned including my MkV GTI. It doesn't seem like a normal feeling for a brand new car. I took it back to my original dealer at 4,000 miles and they said there was nothing wrong with it and they didn't feel any vibrations.
Well lately it's been vibrating more intensely and more often (at almost 8,000 miles) It now does the same thing while stopped in traffic or at lights. It's really annoying to me. I took it a couple days ago to a new dealer (I moved) and just talked to them on the phone. They also said there's nothing wrong with it and it's normal.
I forget exactly what they said it was because I was walking to the gym, but basically it was some cooling pump/fan that kicks on to cool the engine down and that's what is causing the vibration. But, they said it's normal and all VWs do it. I'm not quite sure why a fan needs to cool a perfectly cold engine in the morning though.
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Each time I reach 67mph, the empty passenger seat will shake profusely and I do feel a strong vibration under the car. Once I get above 72mph, the sensation goes away. Anything under 67mph is smooth as well.
It doesn't matter if I'm accelerating or coasting, It will occur between these speeds. I assume that I have one or more tires that may not be balanced correctly?
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So here is my situation, back in September I had to replace my passenger side cv axle on my 99' Mk IV Jetta and ever since then I have had a vibration whenever I exceed speeds over 70. This vibration is accompanied with a droning sound that gets louder the faster I go. But the weird part is all of this only happens when I am accelerating. If I push in the clutch or take my foot off of the accelerator it goes away immediately. Since all that started (for other reasons I might add) I have replaced the tires, both front ball joints, the driver side steering knuckle and both front struts.
Additionally and I'm not sure if this is related but it does seem coincidental. The muffler bumps on the body when I'm accelerating as well, but only after the exhaust has warmed up. I am at a loss. When the tires were installed they did a balance on the wheels and they didn't say anything about the wheels being bent or "out of round".
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I have a '95 Chevy 6.5 Turbo-Diesel Pickup. The past few days there has been a whining noise that went up and down with the speed of the vehicle. I decided to have it looked at this coming week when I have a day off but when I was driving home last night the whining stopped and was replaced with a clunking. It sounds like a pair of running shoes that have been thrown in a clothes dryer. When it clunks loudly there is a shake that can be felt through the floor and seat. I now have it parked until I can find out what is going on and if it is safe to drive to the mechanic or if I should have it towed.
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Shortly after having my tires rotation/oil change service, I noticed a strong vibration around 45 mph, enough to visibly shake the passenger seat. Other indications:
- It is most noticable when accelerating (e.g. entrance ramp), much less when coasting at 45. I can coast at 45 and when I accelerate feel the vibration increase.
- I did not notice the vibration prior to the tire rotation, so I think it is unrelated to my accident in November.
- The vibration is not apparent at all below 40.
- I had all 4 tires rebalanced (thinking one of them may have thrown a weight) and I still have the vibration.
- I do have a little irregular wear on the tires (inside shoulder).
Before I take it in and have it looked at, I was thinking of taking off one wheel at a time and testing the car w/ the spare on to see if it is one of the tires.
Any other ideas about potential problems that could cause this vibration?
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I have a 2012 Camry SE and my front passenger seat seems to shake/shudder alot. It constantly shudders and makes so much noise when no one is sitting in it, that it's driving me crazy! I can't tolerate the noise of it. If I go over a bump it shudders, if i'm driving on a rough highway, it shudders and shakes so badly that I have to put my hand on it to make it stop. It makes squeaky noises as well. It doesn't happen when driving on smooth surface.
Secondly, the center dash is very squeaky, and made out of hard plastic. I feel there is no insulation behind, and thus it squeaks whenever I go over a bump. What steps did you take to resolve it?
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Ok here's the problem. I have a 2003 grand prix se 3.1 and a 1998 grand prix gtp series II sc. Both have the exact same problem running and both had overheating issues prior to. I can start either one on a given day while cold and drive them as if nothing is wrong. But soon as either one hits operating temp, I start to hear what sounds like a rattling or sputtering like sound from under the hood, accompanied with a sudden loss of power and then the engine shuts off. Now yesterday I attempted further diagnostics with the se model GP. I let it idle rather than driving it this time, and it ran perfectly fine for about 20 mins, started to make the aforementioned noise, I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm and it kept it from cutting off and smoothed, but the second I let up, it was off and wouldn't restart till it was cooled off. Same goes for the gtp. I'm really stumped on this one.
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I'm still having vibrations at 75+ MPH. It's not the wheels, and the vibe went away when I removed the prop shaft, and came right back when put back in.I have replaced the CV joint and center bearing on the shaft, and the flex discs don't look bad.
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A friend of mine recently had a VWR intake installed in his R along with HPA dogbone mount. After the installation he noticed a lot of vibration in his brake pedal. He then had the dogbone mount removed and the stock put back in thinking that the mount was causing the problem. After doing that he still had the vibrations in his brake pedal. He then brought the vehicle back to the dealership who did the install for him. They couldn't find what was causing the problem. He later found out that his VWR intake was resting directly on top of the brake reservoir. Noticed vibrations in the brake pedal or notice that it is resting on top of brake reservoir? Can his intake be missing a bracket or installed improperly?
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Recently i have been noticing a vibration that wasn't there a while back. I installed an Autotech insert about 5k ago, didn't notice it right away, but it's pretty pronounced now. Also have koni's, APR stg II, B&B TBE and APR intake if that's relevant...
The vibration is especially noticeable when i come to a slow stop, either in gear, clutch in, or in neutral. It's a relatively loud thumping that can be felt through the brake pedal, and through the car when foot not on the brake. Seems to get increase as I get closer to stopping, then lightens up a bit when stopped. If i take it off-idle while sitting still by a minimal amount, it completely goes away.
Also, from a gradual start, there is a brief but loud squeak / groan as the clutch engages. If i am a little more aggressive, it doesn't happen.
I do not beat on this car at all, don't launch it hard, or anything like that. Was thinking about taking the Autotech insert out to see if that changes anything, but my back isn't really feeling up to the task this weekend.
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I'm getting strange vibration when I hit around 4200rpm in ever gear. Car smooths out at around 5000 rpm. Vibration feels like it's coming from the transmission but it could also be coming from the axels. Original OEM axels were taken off the car by the previous owner. What this problem may be? I don't want to bust open the transmission if I don't need to.
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I'm getting ready to replace my front driver side CV joint when I see this.
I thought the joint was bad as there a tear in the outer boot, grease was thrown around on the wheel, and there was an nasty vibration when the car would coast at speed. This gear oil leak just showed up today (or at least this is the first time I've seen this).
The car was sitting for a couple of weeks with no pool of oil on the ground. I pull it into the driveway and all of a sudden its leaking from this location. Could the vibrations and leak be caused by something inside? I sure hope not. What the problem could be?
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