Golf/GTI VII :: VAQ Differential Require Regular Maintenance / Changing Of The Oil?
Dec 28, 2015
Question: Does the the VAQ differential require regular maintenance/changing of the oil?
I know I've seen this question discussed, but the answer I've always seen was that it does not. I believe that this answer comes from watching the Borg Warner powerpoint video, where the presenter claims the differential is maintenance free.
While reading the Maintenance Service Manual, I noticed that VW does in fact require servicing of the VAQ every three years, and gives the procedure for doing so.
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I have a 2007 ford f150 FX2 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip rear end. It has 68,000 miles and would like to change the rear differential oil. I have read and I know the oil it requires is 75w-140 plus the friction modifier. I would like to use mobile one. But was reading and the mobile one sites states that is already has friction modifiers. Is that ok to use on my truck? Using mobile one and not adding the extra modifiers?
Also some other brands say they have friction modifiers as well. Should I use mobile one and add extra friction modifier or just go with what it has already?
Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube 75W-140 LS contains special friction modifiers designed for limited slip-type differentials. In most applications, the addition of special LS (limited slip) additives is not required. For axles requiring the highest level of limited-slip performance, OEM specific LS additives can be added to this fluid.
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I have a 2005 prius. I changed the oil at a local gas station. How do you reset the mant required reminder from the dash.
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I have a 2011 F350 SRW with 3.55 differential. I'm was going to change the fluid, however, what type do I use? The manual calls for 75-90 with the Dana rear end or 75-140. How do I know which rear end I have? Is there a build sheet with code on the vehicle anywhere?
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I have a 2009 f150 platinum and have been told both sides of the story now... that the front differential is sealed and need not be changed, and also that it is unsealed and can be changed. While asking this question I might as well lump in the rear differential as well. Are they both sealed or unsealed and need to be changed???
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I am getting tint done soon, I had thought I read this a long time ago but I couldn't remember, does tinting our windows require interior trim removal or not?
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I changed my engine oil and filter at 15K and I don't know how to reset the light. It says "Oil Maintenance Required" and has yellow triangle with exclamation mark in middle of it.
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just got my R32 a year and 3 months ago and love it. I came across my first issue though a couple months ago, when i start my car on cold starts before it would of course go to the cold start mode at over 1,000 rpm's before going back down after 30 seconds and depending on the weather i'd let it warm up anywhere from 5-15 minutes.
Well a couple months ago my car wouldn't do its normal cold start routine, i'd turn it and it made its loud pitch as if it was going to do the cold start and it just immediately went down to regular idle skipping the warm up, it did this for a week before i got it checked out. I went to a shop by me and he said that it might be a thermostat sensor so i replaced it and nothing. So he then pulled my throttle body off cleaned it did the whole calibration thing or whatever its called that you have to do when unplugging them and it went back to normal!!! Well after a month (two weeks ago) its doing it again. Then he told me it might be that the throttle body has some condensation frozen and isn't allowing the throttle to open like it needs too.
I live in a suburb 20 minutes north of chicago and i don't drive the car if it snows, i keep it in my garage. I have a CAI installed on the car that i put on back in March of 09 and a flapper that i just permanently opened with an IV clamp. So i don't have any big modification on the car...yet
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Today is the first day I noticed this problem !! driving regular hit traffic I notice my fans come on so I look down at my cluster and my temp gauge is a quarter pass 190 ?? Happen 3 times with in 10 minutes of each other no air condition or heat fans on ??? Get to my destination stay there for 2 hours then drive home but no temp issues ??? 74000 miles I hit today on the car completely stock ?? Thermostat , housing ??
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Picked up a GTI Autobahn yesterday. Was pretty hyped that my sales rep was able to get me the last car in my configuration in all of California. It had to be driven 150 miles to my dealer though so there were more miles on the odometer than I would have liked but I got such a good deal that I let it be. Drove home and all was fine. Went out later that night and while driving home it all started.
Car was just cruising at regular freeway speeds (65 - 70) and suddenly all the gauges go out and error lights galore. Strange part is the car is still working otherwise at this point. We were able to exit and park it safely. Here's a video of exactly what we were seeing: [URL] ....
After parking and shutting off the car we try to start it back up. It turns over fine but a second later it kills itself - much like it would if you shut the car off manually. Warning lights galore again and eventually an error about the braking system shows on the display. Here's a video on this part: [URL] ....
Gas tank is full. Car was not being driven hard whatsoever. And even if it was it shouldn't do this right?
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Just got a 2004 1.8T wagon, but it didn't have an owners manual. Do I need 91 octane? Is a VW dealer the only place for a spare key? Can you steer me to a catalog for bling (grille) and other mods?
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I have just purchased a 2000 Passat 1.8 mfg 2/29/2000. I have no keys. I will have to get keys made and want to know if they require special programming. Dealer said its on fence maybe maybe not. Depends on when built. Any other info about what to look for would be nice. I look forward to being able to contribute in the future. For now I'm a newbie.
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So I have the dreaded rear diff whine, which started about a month (1000 miles) ago. I've read a bunch of the past posts, but still can't find a solution other than a) live with it, or b) spend $3500 for a whole new diff. (95k miles - no warranty) It seems the general consensus is that the problem stems from a loosened pinion nut. Is there no way to just tighten the nut? Or if I do will the whine continue because the gears are now worn? BTW I just had all the diff and tranny fluids changed. Made no difference.
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My rear differential has an oily film around the area where the axles exit the differential. The oil is not dripping, no oil puddles - it is a film of oil with road dirt stuck to it. You can wipe your finger on it and it looks like black grease on your finger. Is this film normal? The dealership says it's normal. I say it should be dry.
By the way, 10,000 miles ago I had a similar symptom and the same dealer (different technician, advisor and service manager) relaced the axle seals under warranty. The new guys say VW will only replace the seals if it is dripping. It was not dripping the last time they fixed it. Now they say they cannot support a repair. Car still has drivetrain warranty.
Two weeks ago I changed my own oil as part of the 40K service. I told them that I saw the weeping axles at that time.
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Any troubleshooting tips on determining where the noise is coming from at the rear of the car? There is a pretty audible hum at 55 mph coming from the rear of the car and I am not sure if its the balancer or the diff. I'm reading horror stories of improperly serviced rear diffs causing the diff to fail and starting to freak out.
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It was brought to my attention that staggered wheels Can blow out the rear dif? Is this common? I currently have 18x8 and 18x9 rear summer wheels and I haven't seen any issues occur yet.
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My V6 Tdi is in the garage with a leaking cylinder head, this is the 2nd time the head has required replacing first at 46,000 now the replacement head is leaking ( porous ) after being on the car for 80,000. So ! 2 heads in 2 years.
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2004 BMW 330i 140k miles.
We first noticed this problem a year or so ago. At first, it happened only on cool mornings if the car had been parked outside. The cold car would require 3-4,000 RPM to move, forward or reverse. After about one minute or 3-4 blocks, the transmission worked perfectly at the touch of the throttle for the rest of the day.
It only happens about half the time. Other times, even if cool and after being parked for days, the transmission engages normally from idle and up.
Once recently, it deviated from this pattern. After sitting overnight, it started and pulled into the garage normally. I shut it off for a couple of minutes to place ramps in front of the tires and restarted the car. It did not want to move on the second start. It took 3500 RPM to climb the ramps. That was scary. The car has never suddenly engaged, but if it had suddenly engaged at that moment, it would have shot me through the front of the garage.
Last week I took it to the transmission specialty shop with the best reviews in town. As life would have it, he kept it three days, driving it four times, and it worked perfectly each time he drove it. Fluid looks fine (replaced at 120k miles) and fluid level is perfect. No codes stored in transmission computer.
I thought it was intermittently draining the torque converter until this last time when it failed after being shut off for only a couple of minutes.
The transmission guy is not interested in rebuilding the transmission even if I wanted to try it. He worries that because he does not know what is causing the problem.
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Have some 'whine' coming from the rear differential under deceleration. In my case it just started occurring last night and seems to be audible over 55MPH and while in 5th or 6th gear after I let up off the throttle as to engine brake.
It seems like the answer or solution pertains to the input shaft pinion retention nut eventually backing off, as well as oil starvation to the unit, but has this actually been confirmed? My rear diff was replaced over 4 years ago under warranty after it failed and enduring 2 wheel drive for a bit.
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VW GTI 1.8T 5 speed.
So I've blown the differential on my transmission, it's been blown for a little while. I have basically no transmission fluid at all.
Question: Why is the car still driving normally?
Some time ago I was getting a transmission fluid flush and change, my gear shifter was a bit stiff before the change and after changing the fluid it became smoother.
According to my mechanic that would be the result of changing the fluid.
Question: So then why is my gear shifter completely smooth without any transmission fluid at all and a blown differential?
Question: what will happen if I leave it like this? I'm assuming it will eventually seize up?
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I had my starter replaced today and now am hearing some weird rattling sounds coming from front tires. Do you need to remove any of the tires to get to the starter? I thought I read that somewhere.
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