Flashed to 1.5 v8.1 91 and had no issues with flash. Then tried to start car and all warning lights on and no start. Flashed back to Performance Pack stock version and again no issues with flash, but same problem, warning lights and dead car. Disconnected battery and reconnected without any change.
View 21 RepliesI have a 2015 Hyundai Accent, and haven't had any problems with it whatsoever until this past weekend. I was driving with my Mom, driving her around to do errands, when all of the warning lights on the instrument panel flashed and then disappeared. My trip indicator also reset, even though I hadn't been using it at the time - I usually keep that button on the gas mile screen (the one that tells you how many miles you have left until you need to get gas). But when the lights flashed, the gas mile screen disappeared and reset to the first screen (the one for the trip indicator, which had gone back to zero abruptly). I'm not sure why this has happened. The car didn't stop or anything like that. I was actively going down the road at the time, going a decent speed. The only thing out of the ordinary was that there was a traffic helicopter above us (this was in an area that tracks speed by air radar), and I wonder if this happened because the helicopter hit us with the radar?
View 7 RepliesI most recently drove my 2006 Prius around on Saturday Feb. 1, with no problems at all. I went out of town for a couple of days, and returned this afternoon to a car that will not start. I stepped on the brake, pushed Power, and things lit up, the "Ready" light flashed a few times but then went off. Power button light stayed orange.
Several warning lights on dash stayed on (!)/ABS/VSC/traction control, and a message came on the screen saying something about a problem with "P" parking, and that it should be parked level and the parking brake applied. It is sitting level with the parking brake applied already. Also, the door ajar warning light and beep start as soon as you open the car door to get in.
I'm thinking from what I've read that my 12v battery has died/is dying. I'm the original owner, bought car in March 2006, and it has just under 61,000 miles on it.
I have a 2005 Ford Explorer and a few days ago it wouldn't start, it just clicked and the lights flashed. I put it on a charger overnight and it started right up. I took it to Autozone and he tested the starter, alternator and battery and said everything was green. It was fine until yesterday when I started it up and it ran a self test and gave me:
Ignition Key B
Serial # 00075194
Part # 4L2T-10849-CK
Diagnostic Trouble Code : 9318,9352 and D900
I looked through my manuals and can't find anything with codes. My friend says batteries don't last long in Florida, I have only been here a year from Michigan. I bought the truck in 2008 and have never replaced the battery. The guy at Autozone was reluctant to sell me a battery because he didn't think I needed one. I have never had any problems with this vehicle.
I got the car flashed yesterday to apr stage 1. Now it won't start and throwing a fault stabilize control error an wont start. I'm stuck in a bad way. Any tricks to get it to start and get home?
View 6 RepliesThis is the third time I am having this issue, previously once it was close to service so dealer just added the oil and few months ago it happened again and I did the 1200 mile test where the dealer measures the burn rate, nothing came out of that. Finally I had it last few days, it was flashing intermittently and I took it to the dealer and they added 2.7 quarts of oil and while I have 2500 more miles to go for the scheduled service. Looks like my engine is burning oil. I don't have any visible leakages as my garage is clean. I will update after my second 1200 mile test. However I suspect nothing will come out it as I have few long drives planned and 1200 milestone will come up fast. I am having this issue if the time between the oil changes is more than 3 or 4 months. My car is 2007 LS 460L.
View 7 RepliesIt was driving me crazy that the red triangle warning light (master warning light) flashed for only a split second, once per day, two days in a row.
I drive 100 miles per day. My 2004 Prius has 136K miles.
It turned out to be low motor oil level, 1.75 quarts low.
My car is burning about one quart every 5K miles which probably is within the normal range for a 136K car.
Unfortunately the above message flashed up on my dashboard last night, and it has re-appeared first thing this morning. The first thing it switched off was my air con, also I notice that the battery meter now barely gets above 12, prior to this message it would go up to just under 14 once the engine had started. I have a 2004 3.2 v6 and, as a preventative measure, I had a new battery fitted about 4 months ago.
View 11 RepliesWhile highway driving the other day the Flat Tire Warning flashed and beeped for no reason. It flashed on and off for about an hour. Is this a faulty pressure sensor?
View 3 RepliesMy 2004 Honda Accord wouldn't start this morning. Immobilization indicator was blinking. After a bit, it started just fine, as the indicator stopped blinking. My thinking at this time was that it had rained torrentially the previous night, maybe some moisture had got into the circuitry and caused a little 'hiccup.' Then, as I drove, about 5 minutes later, the car started trying to stall. The check engine light came on, then the battery light came on and flashed. The engine ran erratically. Both check engine and battery lights started blinking erratically. At one point the dash beeped at me, like the warning sound it makes when the emergency brake is on while the car is moving. This got worse as I drove. I pulled over to the nearest shop. 2 hours of looking at the car, they said the camshaft sensor and the alternator needed to be replaced. .
View 9 RepliesWhenever I push the break down and press the power button (putting it into READY mode), yellow warning lights show up on the dashboard (such as ABS, brake, etc.) for about a second or two, then disappear when the car is ready to drive.
I went to a mechanic and they told me that this is normal, and that I should only worry if those lights stay on and don't turn off. I just wanted to know from fellow Prius drivers if the mechanic's statement was correct and that this is normal and that I indeed should not worry.
- Also, they 12v battery was tested and it came out as 12.5v
Have a 2011 Camry base 6 spd manual. Came out from work and won't start. Electrical cutting on and off. Turn key and only only light comes on with clicking. Get a jump and it starts but all electrical comes on and off for five minutes until engine dies. Now won't start with jump and just makes clicking noise at alternator with lots of lights on and off on the dash. Seems like a major short somewhere.
New battery seems a waste at 2 years old and probably not the problem.
2008 LS460...
This is what happened... After not driving the car for 3 cold days, the battery seemed dead...so i jump started the car with another car...and the car started, but started showing a bunch of warning lights... It says, check vsc, brake malfunction, check brakes, check abs...
So i ignored all the warning lights and decided to drive the car on the highway for 30 minutes to fully recharge the battery... After driving for 30 minutes with all the warning lights on, i parked the car and turned it off. Then i tried to restart it again after 5 minutes...and it won't start...
Could it be that it didnt charge the battery because of all the warning lights were on? Is the battery bad? I jumped started car again...but it didn't reset, still got all warning lights... Now turned the car off...and it's dead again...
Had a small brake fluid leak from my right-rear wheel, so I took it into a local place called Wheel Works. They said the right-rear caliper needed to be replaced, so I told them to go ahead.
Two days after I pick up the car, the ABS light and brake warning lights start flashing intermittently. They'd come on at random times, and then turn back off. After about 2 weeks of this, the warning lights are now on all the time.
I've read elsewhere on these forums that the ABS module on our cars can go bad and might need to be rebuilt. But is it possible that the mechanic caused this problem when he was working on the brakes to replace my caliper? Could it be something more minor than the ABS module? I now have reason to believe this mechanic is shady, so I'm hesitant to bring it back there.
So, I'm not entirely sure if this has been covered, but I dealt with the bulb out warning with the LED tail lights. I am not running the fourth wire. I had tried searching for a while but found no answers. Most conversation about this issue are buried in old threads.
The usual DIY disclaimer applies. In the Central Electrics module (09), access Coding, then Long Coding. You will need to make sure that Byte 19, Bit 3 is checked (Diagnosis Rear Parking Lights Active).
Here is my current coding:
E68D8B6700041500470A0000F000000000918095C000100000 000000000
I have verified all operations (parking lights, brake lights, turn signals [amber]) and no flickering as well.
My gas cap warning light came on this morning, I thought I would fill the car in case the cap is loose. After the car was refulled to the max, the car just started, spluttered for a few seconds as if it was going to stall, then after a quick rev it ran fine to the office. The gas cap light went out, but just before I got to work the check engine light has come on.
Is this a sensor breaking down or something serious?? I only have 16k miles
Today I noticed that my hazards came on while my car was parked. It's weird because when I opened my car to check if I had turned on the hazards (which of course I didn't), the hazards stopped flashing. I don't know what could have caused this.
View 1 RepliesDriving thru a parking lot slow and suddenly no radio-then I notice all dash warnings lit(abs-trac-cel) Park the car shut off ignition and then radio turns on-windows, locks etc all work on battery only. I turn ignition on-a moment of starting sound- then clicks no go. about ten minutes later I return and all is well?
Its about 90 degrees and humid--I think something may be overheating but I did not drive but a mile or so.
My 2009 Silverado 1500 with only 12,000 miles has begun intermittent display of all warning lights that are normally seen at start up. They stay on for 2-3 seconds and all gauges drop to -0-. When the warning lights go off, the gauges return to normal. It is not as prevalent after engine reaches normal operating temperature.
View 3 RepliesWell I have got a 2000 Excursion with v10 that I've been having some electrical problems with lately. All started with a no start issue and gauge cluster warning lights staying on along with fuel and volt gauges reading without the keys being in the ignition. Took it in to the dealership to get looked at and they are saying it needs a new fuse box and gem module put in it. Was also told that it is an obsolete part and gonna be tricky trying to find the correct one for my truck as it needs to be identical to what my truck has as options. Is there any other places out there making new ones or fixing gem modules? Dealership pretty much told me if they can't find a new gem module for it that the truck is pretty much dead in the water.
View 3 RepliesMy VAG-COM is down, so I haven't had the chance to scan and see what the code is that I'm assuming got stored, but here's what happened today:
Driving constant speed about 75mph with cruise control on, traveling on level ground. Road began to have a slight incline up a long gradual hill. EPC flashed and car dropped out of cruise control.
I manually accelerated up to speed again and reset CC. No further weirdness, but that's never happened to me before, and it's on a road I used to travel 6 days a week.