Golf/GTI VII :: Traction Control Light Blinks And Hear Loud Bang From Front Under Hard Acceleration
Jan 13, 2016
Have an SE DSG w/ PP and 3300 miles.. When under hard acceleration and the traction control light blinks on I sometimes hear a loud BANG from the front - the car pulls great and goes like hell - just wondering is this the VAQ at work - sounds like the car slamming into gear.. Other than that noise the car is a total blast to drive even though it is now too cold to really play with it..
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I have a 2008 vw r32 recently installed a HPA turbo setup, now I'm having a problem the first time this happened it was 90 degrees out I drove 40 min let it sit in direct sunlight for over a hour then drove another 30 min and hit a bunch of hard bumps traction control light and EPC light comes on and lose all power, Shut off car and restart it and was fine for about a week drove it in the am drove fine let it sit all day out in direct sunlight about 88 degrees out started it up idle was staying at 1000 and went to take off and instantly traction control light and EPC light on, now I need any input I can get I have no clue what's going on I think I knocked something loose in the ecu after they opened it up and put there chip in it, but I have no clue
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I've had an issue twice with the truck stuck in park. Both times I pulled battery cables and it reset itself. This time is different; the truck is stuck in park, the chime doesn't work when you open the door, the screen flashes tire pressure monitor fault and the traction control light blinks on and off. Not only that, the radio does not work, nor does the heat/air. I've got to believe with that many things its the body control module gone bad? Truck is a 2010 crew cab with the 5.4 btw...
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Hyundai Elantra 2011... My issue occurred just yesterday on a highway at speeds above 65 mph. I initially noticed my traction control light blinking upon light acceleration but with no noticeable loss in traction.
I continued with caution. About 5 minutes later, the light now was blinking regardless of the amount of acceleration. I found I could push the accelerator to the floor with no added power and my speedometer was dropping below 55 mph.
Being a busy highway, I had to very quickly get to the side of the road as my car dropped to dangerous speeds in the middle of the highway. Had I no shoulder or outlet, I could've been in serious trouble.
The situation resolved itself with a simple shut down, restart of the vehicle. But it makes me very concerned why the error in the computer occurred in the first.
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Just bought a 2004 with 240000 on it. Yesterday it started accelerating roughly. Today did the same and the traction control light came on and off several times. And just half hour ago I drove it about 10 minutes in town and the check engine light came on and stayed on.
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I slammed on my brakes the other day because a car pulled out in front of me. When i let off the brakes i noticed the car did not move for a good 1-2 seconds and a traction control light was flashing. I didn't think much of it until i was sitting at a light and decided to see what happens if i press my brake pedals in hard again... the traction light turns on again and the car doesn't move when brakes are disengaged for a few seconds. Is this normal? It feels like my hill assist on the BMW. Why the traction light turns on? My car is a 2010 Prius III with 5k miles.
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2008 Passat 2.0T auto, started occasionally shifting with a loud bang into and out of park, and from forward into reverse and reverse into forward. No MIL, pending transmission communications error code. Would accelerate very poorly up until about 30mph and then accelerate normally. Shutting the car off and then restarting would usually clear up the symptoms. Started happening about once a week over a 3 week period, and then started happening about about every other day. With it happening more often, had an opportunity to experiment a little, and by shifting into sport mode (which causes the MFD to display the gear that the transmission is in) noticed that the car was not shifting into 1st to 3rd gear, but starting off in 4th. With that and the rough shifts in and out of park, I thought that it was probably transmission related,
With a tranny being $$$$ and the battery being 4 years old, and relatively cheap to replace, I decided to play the long shot and see if a possibly weak battery was causing an electrical problem in the transmission. The battery checked out OK at a couple of places, but decided to give it a shot and replace it anyway.
Installed the new battery (Bosch from Pep Boys $109) and had every warning light on the dash go on with the first restart, along with a return of the harsh shift out of park problem. Shut the car off, turned it back on, drove five miles, all the warning lights went out, and no return of the transmission problem after 5+ months and 10K miles.
Just a heads up - if your battery is 4+ years old, and you are getting any odd problems that could in any way possibly be related to the electrical system - which includes just about every system on our cars - consider going for a new battery. Worked for me.
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I was driving my car and forgot to turn esp off, hit boost in 2nd gear and the traction control did it's thing. didn't notice anything while driving so I didn't think anything of it. once I got home to back into my driveway, I noticed that when I turn the wheel sharply (at a standstill or very low speed) there's a clunking coming from what seems like the passenger front. I'm hoping it's not the inner cv. What it could be? I know for a fact it started right after the traction control kicked on so that's what caused it.
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I have a 2003 Buick Lesabre Custom, 146K miles on it
1st problem was that the passenger front wheel bearing went bad, I replaced it with a new bearing from Napa(cheaper one) drove it 1 day everything seemed fine, next day it was raining, and Traction control and abs light came on and continues to do so almost everytime I run the car. My Mechanic friend said this was a defective wheel sensor and that i should get a new one, I do not know if I should get the better one, every time I've ever changed the wheel hubs I have had this problem except when I use the more expensive hubs. Maybe I answered my own question on this one!!
Today when my wife was driving the car, the Service engine Soon light lit and it started bucking and shuddering going uphill, and it threw a code that said that TCC was stuck etc. I had been running the failing hub for a few weeks prior to this with no problems but when I changed this the other day, I started having problems.
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Ran the vag com on her and it says "AWD control module J492 no signal/no communication" I'm pretty sure I'm just driving around in fwd only right now.
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Traction control light can't seem to find out why its on no fault codes ran vag com nothing after I swapped transmissions it came on and ever since its been on.
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My traction control light came on today, and it's just...on. I am not sure what that could be. I checked to make sure the maf was on snug, Other than that I'm at a loss. Scanned it and found no codes relating. Just the dumb convenience center module.
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I read a thread about this a long time ago and after searching for a bit I couldn't seem to find the info I needed. I am having my traction and abs light come on and off occasionally and I think it's due to the sensor up front? I read that often times when suspension is installed, the sensor gets damaged and causes this issue, is this correct? Can I mend the current sensor or does it have to be replaced? what part is the actual piece that needs replaced?
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I know this has been covered. but when i searched it was all mechanical failure.
My abs/traction lights come on together whenever it snows, and i lose both abs and traction control. But in the warm weather it is fine. it ocassionally happens when it rains (but a lot less often)
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I was having a little fun with the first snow of the year, and now my traction control light won't go off... I was thinking it was the ABS... shed some light [IMG] [URL] ... got back into the car and now it works correctly ...
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I was pulling out of school the other day and my abs light came on and so did the traction control light, noting was going on at all. I was driving in a straight line. Everything works perfect i have no issues just lights, about 2 months ago. I did coilovers rotors and pad all the way around and a new abs sensor on the drivers side because i smashed it when installing the coilovers. I need to get it fixed because I cant pass inspection with the lights on and I am curious to find out if something is actually wrong with it. My uncle drove it and said it makes a noise when you turn and he thinks possibly the cv joint is bad on the axles? He said because of the excess strain from the drop.
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My car's front bumper got ripped off this week , parking spots on the grass pulled it off) Ever since then, I've been having weird ass issues. After it happened, I zip tied it back together and started to go to town when my car kicked itself into EPC mode, but only when I went on the throttle. If I let off, the EPC light would go off, but the traction control light would stay on (ESP light, whatever). I killed it and realigned the throttle body (I think that's what it is. Where you hold the brake and throttle in for about 30-60 seconds while the key is on but not started then kill it and restart it) and after I did that, it will start and only stay alive for half a second then die. It's started to make a god-awful crackling noise as well in the engine compartment near the Alternator.
[URL]....
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I don't know why but my traction control and abs lights stays on when I start my car if i turn it off and restart it 3 or 4 times they go away sometimes. Sometimes they will go off and comeback! what does this mean! I had my car jacked up the other day when i changed my oil i don't know if i could have pulled a ire or something from jacking it up on an angle one side at a time. I change my oil the same way every time so i never have a problem.
Also the traction control will turn off and not the ABS light after a restart, I can turn it on and off when i do a restart and it goes off, but when i start my car, and its stuck on i cannot turn it on and off! Is it bad to drive the car? If a break sensor on my wheel was replaced and then was disconnected would it trigger the ABS light? I had the sensor that goes down to my wheel replaced and it may have loosened up... but what else could cause this?
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Just replaced one outer tie rod end on my 2003 GLI yesterday. (ran out of daylight to do other side, now have another problem)...
Everything came apart and went back together fine with really no fighting. Got the alignment close, but will still need one done once I finish up.
Anyways, I am wondering what I possibly could have screwed up, because after a few miles of driving the traction control light (circle with triangle in the middle) came on and now won't go away. I didn't screw with any wires while I was in there. Pretty straight forward job, so I thought. I don't have a VAGCOM but there's no engine codes stored.
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So yesterday we did a lot of work on my car. We accidentally pulled one of the ABS sensor wires out of place. I wasn't too surprised when the light was on, also with the traction control light on. (permanently) Going around a few turns this morning, I noticed a bit of under steer, which I thought was due to breaking in the new tires. But now that I think about it more, I don't believe my haldex is engaging at ALL! If I just replace or get the wire back in correctly (we tried, but may be in wrong...) will the haldex re-engage?
I want to get it scanned but I just started spring break and am flying back home to Minnesota on Monday. A friend (experience VW owner) will be holding her til then. I've searched and some people think the brake switch can cause the ABS light to come on with the CEL. Couldn't find anything about the Traction control light always on with the ABS light. My dash is just getting more and more lit up... The airbag fault light is because of the selt buckle resistance and the brake pad light is from the new porterfield's I put on... (i put ECS' brake loop on too but not working-do I need to get it cleared?)
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I've got a 2004 F450 that I'm loving, but suddenly having an issue getting it into gear. To get it out of park and into another gear I've got to turn the key a little father towards start (somewhere in between normal after start position and actually engaging the starter) and then the column shifter will actually let me get out of park and into another gear. Once I've done this there is no problem moving between gears. Last, this has to be related since it started at the same time - when I'm in cruise control it takes a greater amount of force on the brake to get the cruise control to shut off. When it finally does, it makes a loud click, almost a bang. If I only lightly push on the brake it won't kick off the cruise control and the engine will increase power to keep the speed and fight me on the brake.
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