Golf/GTI VII :: Stumbling And Jerking When At Idle
Dec 22, 2014
Is this a sign of a turbo going out or ? my GTI currently has 1700 miles on it and not all the time, but in the past 1700 miles the car has stumbled or jerked around a bit when at idle, i.e. the rpm's don't do anything but it seems like it's misfiring or something a few times then generally clears out. Same when driving sometimes, cruising along and it seems to misfire or stumble around but it clears up as well. Haven't noticed anything else weird but it's annoying and worrisome.
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Within the last week, while sitting a stop light, the car will very briefly (2 or 3 seconds) shudder and stumble. The RPMs drop a couple of hundred +/- and then it's fine. I have no other symptoms - no power loss, or reduced mileage. I've not experienced this before and it's happened three or four times recently. Is this indicative of an impending failure of some component?
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While starting up the 337 this morning, I received a stumbling idle from the engine. I popped the hood and noticed that there was a bit of bluish / purplish discoloration on the tops of the coilpacks. Gonna replace the packs and plugs today, just wanted to know if there was anything else I should check for.
Also, this wouldn't be related to the death of the driver's side door lock module would it? (I noticed that when i opened the door, the light and the fuel pump didn't prime....)
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My truck has been doing this since I got it and I can't figure it out. It's a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5 5Spd. It runs fine if you don't rev it above 2500-3000 rpm. After you rev it that high coming down to idle it is stumbling real bad and sometimes stalls. I've been driving it like this since I got it, and it does fine other than this. It gets better the longer you drive it, but it still will do it if you rev it high enough.
Here are all the parts I personally have changed (previous owner said he did the plugs and wires and air filter, which it looks like he did but I'm about ready to change them myself):
-Fuel filter
-coil packs
-timing belt
-egr valve
-cleaned throttle body
-iacv
-tps
-thermostat
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So i have a 2000 ford ranger 2wd 4cyl .190k miles. My issue is the motor has a very rough/shaking idle,abs light on,and check engine light on.it also continues to blow fuses to the tail lights and dash, haha
Ive had it since it was at 40k and has been a great truck,although lately i have really neglected it.ive changed the spark plugs and new wires new timing chain. I would d love to start trouble shooting some of this stuff this weekend if the weather holds up.
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Just stopped by the dealer to check on some parts, went to start the car, and this happened. Also smells rich as hell. Did I just drop the ECU code?
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That's the best way to describe what's happening. It goes like this:
Car is cold. Within the first two miles, in third gear (manual) around 30-35 mph, it has a momentary stumble that's very noticeable and it jerks for that second. Then it's back to normal.
The dealer recently replaced an O2 sensor (which has had no effect on the stumble). 2010 Golf TDI....
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Ok so I'm having weird issues with my big turbo R. I thought I was having misfires in low rpm range. Car was stumbling and just not firing on all cylinders ( just an expression but that's what it felt like) realized it was because of the esp. Ok no the main issue. Vacuum was sitting around 14hg. When I come up to a light or stop sign or just put in neutral while moving it revs it self ad vacuum will go to almost 0hg until I come to a full stop.
The rev is not a big rev only like 100-150 rpm increase. Also the throttle response is not there if I go to rev match down shift. Here's the weird part. If I unplug the Maf it runs super smooth 19-20hg vacuum amazing throttle response clutch chatter almost goes away. There are no cel with or without the Maf plugged in I have logs for both...
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124k, original owner, no mods. Car was running rough and stumbling a bit. A bunch of codes came up. I replaced coils because I had them, spark plugs look good. One code came back p0103. I cleaned the throttle butterfly and replaced the maf sensor. Still same problem.
When I first start it cold it idles high but stays running , once it warms a little the idle drops and then it won't stay running. Then the traction control light comes on and then the cel. I checked for a vacuum leak but came up with nothing.
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I recently bought a 1992 Celica GT with 250k miles on it. It has a rough idle and a couple other things that may or may not be stemming from the same thing that's causing the rough idle
Like I said, it has a rough idle and there is a bit of jerking sometimes during acceleration. The exhaust makes sort of a "put-put-put" or "chirping" sound at lower RPMs and the frequency of the sound corresponds to the engine RPM. I do know of a couple things that could be causing the rough idle and maybe even the jerking, but I'm not sure about the sound from the exhaust.
The cooling fans are hard wired to the ignition so they run constantly, so when it's cold out like it is right now it takes forever for the engine to warm up. Is there a switch somewhere that they are supposed to be wired through? Where would that be? Also, the previous owner did kind of a hack job of putting on a cold air intake and I think I may be missing some sensors, especially because it seems to burn more fuel than it should. What sensors are located on the air intake, or are there even some in the stock airbox itself? And would this possibly be contributing to the rough idle and the jerking?
Also, I do get some vibrations when stopped at idle so I think I may want to replace the motor mounts.
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The issue: Check engine light on. Codes pulled, and he's getting O2 sensor codes (aftermarket exhaust has caused that since he bought the car) and 17705 Pressure Drop Between Turbo and Throttle Valve. The car barely accelerates, and you can hear the turbo spooling, and the engine has small surges. I had VCDS going and went for a drive and noticed his N75 Valve duty cycle was stuck at 5.1% no matter what throttle position he was in. So we're going to the wreckers this afternoon and will pull an N75 valve? The DV is stock and appears to be in good condition, but if changing the N75 doesn't work then that's the next spot I'll look.
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While the car is at a full stop it idles at 500 rpm. I am assuming this is normal. But randomly the accelerator dips and the entire car jerks and feels like the engine is going to choke.
This started happening when the vehicle was at 10K miles and I took it to the dealer but the problem did not repeat itself there. They said they ran all sorts of diagnostics and came up with nothing. At this time the problem would occur may be a few times a week, while waiting at a red light, etc.
Now the vehicle is a 30K miles and it is happening more frequently. Several times a day.
I recorded a video of it to better explain the problem.
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So, I was on my way back home driving through the middle of nowhere Utah late at night, when I had an injector tip crack. I was able to identify which one and unplug it so I could get to Grand Junction, CO (about 350 miles away) where I have family. After a power nap I started calling parts stores and found an injector from Advanced Auto Parts (I couldn't find a motorcraft reman, but I was restricted for time). Installed it and all seemed good so I hit the road again. However, nothing changed. It still had the bad miss (rough idle, jerking/bucking when the torque converter locks up) just like when I had the injector unplugged.
The truck is an early 2004 6.0. It's the number 4 injector. I finally got home and hooked up my AE scanner to discover a #4 injector circuit low P0270 code and circuit contribution/balance fault P0272. It's definitely missing because disabling it has no effect. This could be a loose connector at the injector or FICM, because I can't afford another injector right now.
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I was on the highway a couple days ago and i was in sit and go traffic. When i would accelerate everything was fine but when i would come down to a stop or slowing down at about 1500 rpm i felt the car shake or jerk back and forth. It was too a point where I was scared and about to pullover the highway. Car has 1k miles and its a DSG.
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I have the following code's P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306
I have change all spark plug and coil and it still their.
As soon as i go off throttle the check engine start flashing and then when I go on throttle again the car is jerking and got no power.
After a time the check engine light stay on full time and I have big power loss.
I have check for leaks spraying start pilot on every intake junction to see if I had a leak ( engine should rev from sucking start pilot) doesn't seams that I got a leak.
So I'm thinking of the following:
- Bad Maf
- Bad fuel pump
- Bad driveter valve
- injector. But 6 failing at same time would be strange
- cam sensor
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When shifting gears, mainly in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd while the air conditioner is on I'm experiencing jerking / clunking. When I shift it's not a smooth movement and produces a thump. The only way to really avoid this is by letting the clutch out very very slowly. It only happens when the A/C is turned on. Shifting is perfect when the A/C is off.
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I started to notice that when backing and starting out in D or S from a stop that the clutch acted funny by jerking the car.
The mectronics (sp?) unit was recalled and replaced because I bought a CPO R32. I took it to the dealership and confirmed with the service manager and they are replacing the unit again because they think it is a "bad unit".
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It's only in manual with about 30-50% throttle shifting around 3K RPM and only from 1st-2nd-3rd, after that it's fine.
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I just did a stage 1 remap on a 2010 golf r, everything is works like a charm. However, when I lift-off the throttle the car jerks hard. This only occurs on the first start and cures itself after a drive. I could simply replicate the problem by shutting down the engine and turning it back on. it doesn't have to be cold. it seems to be the ecu forgot everything it learn after i switch off the engine. Happens in all gears including reverse. noticed that during reverse, the car seem to go fast with light throttle , and back to normal once the problem is cured after a drive. Had no issues before the tune.
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When I start up my engine, I hear a chain noise coming from the top of the engine. It's like a belt running chains. Also when I reverse the DSG it's a jerking sensation normal or should i get it fixed by VW.
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When I drove the car on Monday a hesitation/jerking randomly came out of no where during mild acceleration at around 2500 RPM. The next day it was doing the same thing, but one of the times it made the check engine light flash a couple times then go off. On Wednesday I put fuel injector cleaner and a new tank of gas in it to see if that worked at all, but it didn't. The problem was still occurring then the engine light came on and stayed on. So I went to see what the problem was on VCDS and here are the errors that came up. Also I should mention that on Tuesday my battery died and I had to get a jump from someone, this didn't affect the problems, but I think it has something to do with the voltage errors.
A Summary of the errors is lots of things about "low voltage b+" and "engine misfires".
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....
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