Golf/GTI VII :: Strut Noises At Low Speeds
Apr 25, 2015
Hear struts on rough surfaces in parking lots or other rough surfaces at low speeds? It is something that I started noticing and I'm not sure if it is a standard VW thing or if it indicating some sort of premature failure. My previous car didn't do that (wrx) but I know every car manufacturer is a bit different.
Having gone through dealerships in the past for sounds that were not that loud I don't feel it is worthy of a dealership trip unless it gets more audible. They usually just say they heard nothing and everyone tells me I am ...
I want to get VWR springs but if I can hear the struts now it makes me wonder if it will accelerate failure. As stated above, I don't notice it at any normal driving speed, just slow maneuvering on rougher surfaces.
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So recently my R has started making noises that sound like they're coming from the rear end. It's hard to describe noises with words, but the noises are seemingly random except they occur more a lower speeds (5-15 mph) and I don't hear them at all above ~35 mph. It sounds like it's coming from the rear axle area, but it's hard to tell. The noises themselves are kinda like thunks, or pops or clicks.
The type of noise actually changes a lot as well: Sometimes it sounds like a popping noise a spring will make with being loaded/unloaded, sometimes it sounds more the thunk you'd get when a loose metal part shifts and hits another metal part. Sometimes is more like a groan you would hear from a large metal ship under stress from a wave or the like...
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I had my friend of mine who is a mechanic change my struts out this weekend. I had clunking noises from the right strut Toyota and also a tire place said I needed new struts. So I got them replaced now both sides are clunking see the YouTube video.
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I have a 2009 RX350 with 51,000 miles (just 1000 over warranty). The left rear strut developed a bad leak and has begun making the noises associated with the failed strut. I will be changing out both rears and have two questions that I cannot find info for on the web.
1) I noticed the 2 latches on the side covers inside the back area to remove the panel and expose the rear strut tower, are these the only two latches I need to remove to access the upper bolts, or are there hidden screws or things I need to do to remove the panel?
2) What are the torque specs for the rear strut bolts?
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Any noted 2.0T, B6 experience/solutions for squeaking/creaking suspension noises seeming to originate from shock/strut tower areas? I purchased new in 2009, 37K mi ago. VW dealer service persons think they hear it sometimes. Been chasing this problem for a year or more, mostly notable in cold weather. Condition evident driving on uneven pavement, dips in the road etc. Passengers ask "what is that squeaking".
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I own a 2014.5 Camry SE, 4 cyl, 17 inch wheels. 2 months ago I had the right front strut and strut cap replaced, it had a loud popping noise in the r/front, the weird thing was the noise was present with 2 or more people in the car, when I was alone really couldn't hear it. Well I still don't hear the loud popping like it had but there is still a single pop noise over big bumps at low speeds, like a speed bump. I also have the winding up noise in parking lot turning, also only with people in the car, not when I'm alone. The new strut was obviously new, the new strut cap looks identical to the old one, same paint marks as the left side, my invoice shows a strut and mount replaced. I'm at 31000 miles, should I wait a few thousand miles to see if it gets worse? I feel even right after they replaced it there was still some noise in the r/front, I'm generally in my car alone, I'm pretty cautious over speed bumps and the like, my car is driven 80% highway. They only replaced the right front , no left side strut or mount.
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I have a 2011 SF 2.4L FWD GLS with 79k miles. I replaced the OE struts and shocks 3 weeks ago with Monroe OE Spectrum struts and shocks. This improved the ride tremendously especially on the front passenger side where the strut was leaking.
After driving it for 3 weeks I still feel a little rattle or clunk when driving over ruff roads at slow speeds. I did check the ball joint and wheel bearings while I was in there, and I am certain they are not the source of the noise. I also checked the strut mount when I transferred it to the new strut, and while it appeared and felt ok I think it is the most likely cause of the remaining rattle and clunk.
Any aftermarket strut mounts for this particular model year? I have looked at RockAuto and they have a Moog Part # HYSB9816. This part claims it is for the European builds. Is there really a difference for this particular part?
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I figured out what was causing my small clunking noises in the front end.. They were faint, but you could hear them at low speeds..
Front sway bar bushes and end links.. Replaced mine with auto7 bushes and moog endlinks.. They didnt "feel" loose or wobbled but replacing these parts got rid of my clunks..
Only downside was the bushes are really hard to replace, need to remove the rack, subframe, etc..
My car has about 150k miles, and the bushes were a little oval..
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A few months ago my car started whining at highway speeds. The noise has increased in pitch and volume, and is not dependent on engine speed--in fact, if I turn the engine off and coast, the whine persists, lowering in pitch (and getting quieter) when the car slows down. Recently the car has also started vibrating when I turn slightly to the right, as when I change lanes on the highway or bank right on a long turn (sharp right turns from a full stop don't elicit any noise). Do I have a problem with my alignment? I notice my tire wear looks a bit uneven.
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I recently had my manual transmission go out on my 2002 Elantra GLS. It has 208k miles and the tranny had been giving me shifting issues for years. It finally made some clunking and whining noises at certain speeds. I picked up a replacement tranny, but the car has sat in my garage for the last two months. I slowly worked on it over that time and have finally completed it. I went to start it up tonight and it idles normally for 1 second, then it revs up to about 5k. It does this over and over until I turn the car off, and a very hard to see white-ish smoke comes from the air intake tube as I have it only partially on for testing.
The car ran fine before hand. What could this be? I have never experienced this with a vehicle before and searching on the web only gives me links to people having idling and revving issues while at stop lights or on the freeway. The idle did used to stick around 2.5k RPM when I started it up from time to time. Although, a small blip of the throttle would set it back to its normal idle speeds. BTW, the engine runs well with no knocks and has great compression across all 4 cylinders.
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So I already changed the Driver Side upper Control arm. But there is still squeaky noises coming from the trunk area, esp at low speeds going over small hills and small pot holes. I saw this is common on our cars and wanted to know which parts were to be replaced. At 110k, is it worth repairing piece by piece or should I do the shocks, ball joints and such at once.
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My truck has grinding noises when i am making turns from a stop or at slow speeds. Also my 4x4 dash light keeps flashing several times both when I am sitting still and when driving. Neither my 4x4 auto or 4x4 high work but the low will work. Trying to pinpoint where I should look to fix them. I did replace the 4x4 control mod as an attempt to fix this.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Camry, Manual, with about 190,000 miles on it and I am having 2 issues that may or (more likely) may not have anything to do with one another.
1) I am experiencing really high (over 3k) RPMs at the lowers speeds in each gear right after I shift, especially in 5th gear. After a few seconds, if I back my foot off the gas, the RPMs drop down to a normal level and increase at a normal speed. Several other people have posted this and supposedly this car might lock me out of overdrive if its cool, but I have a manual, could this be my problem? Also it happens at least sometimes in lower gears as well, it does seem like the car is staying in a lower gear rather than changing when I change it.
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2) My car has gotten really loud, its not a weird noise, just kind of a vrooming type sound, however it is coming from the back of my car (maybe more on the right) when I turn left the sound gets louder and when I turn right the sound goes completely away.
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My 94 ranger 4.0 v-6 makes clicking noises when hauling a load at highway speeds. How do i correct this?
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I have a 2003 Honda Element with 124,000 miles and it runs like a gem. I purchased it at 99,000! It has slowly developed a dull thunking sound in the left rear (seems to be left rear). I hear this sound when traveling at lower speeds on bumpy surfaces. I don't hear the sound at highway speeds nor do I hear it when my brother (who is a mechanic) stand on the back bumper and jumps up and down really hard after removing everything from the inside of the car. We have had it up on the lift to look at everything underneath and there is nothing thunky when wiggled.
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So I just picked up this mk4 it had D2 coilovers I believe and I'm putting racelands but I'm having trouble actually fitting the strut to the beam it doesn't want to go in because it's too small? So how would I open it up ?
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What's the deal with these stupid strut pucks on the '15 GTI's. I mean I have been reading on these forums so much about these strut pucks. I would figure if volkswagen would be get their mechanics who inspect the vehicles would at least have the decency to thoroughly jack up the vehicle, carefully find the pucks inside the struts and take them out before the car is delivered to any customer. there is no reason why the customer who just bought a MK7 GTI drive it home and they have to jack up the vehicle themselves to find these strut pucks. it doesn't make any sense. Hopefully VW won't have these darn things in 2015 or 2016.
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The strut is lose, I can spin it hardly but I can't get the rotor to go down far enough, already disassembled the control arm but it didn't do much considering I couldn't move it forward or backward so the rotor still sits on a corner or the arm. I did the drivers side already.
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Are the bolt and nut holding the strut to the wheel bearing housing the only things that need to be replaced when removing the strut? Anything else I should change while I'm in there? So far I'm just doing 034 strut mounts and bearings.
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This thread is about suspension though. Ever since installing my B&G coils my car has been making all kinds of funny noises. Originally I realized that the the top nuts for my struts were not nearly tight enough... which led to one of my struts having about 6 or 7 threads completely stripped from rubbing against the mount and not being tight. Completely disassembled the front shocks, made sure everything was kosher, and filled the passenger side with some washers before tightening everything down like a mofo (by hand, no air!) a few weeks ago. All was good.
Now, flash forward to now and it rattles all the time. Driving straight is usually when it makes noise. I immediately assumed it was loose top bolts as I had the same noise previously. I went down to buy some loctite and more tools so I could do the fix myself. Upon inspection, the bolts are still tight as hell. Tightening them rotates the spring, I can feel feel it pop if I rotate my ratchet far enough as the spring finally gives from rotation.
I checked the sway bars, axels, etc.... and nothing. I even went so far as to wrap everything down there in blue masking tape, put the wheel back on, drove around a while (made the noise like 20 times) and then jacked the car up to look again... not a single scratch on the tape. Some of it was still not even 100% pressed down. So my axels, sway bar, etc... have nothing to do with this (at least rubbing wise).
After doing all kinds of research both here and in the MKV forum, I've decided that this is probably due to foobar strut bearings. I ordered some SKF ones from DBC and hope that they come soon... but until then I am still uneasy (duh, this car is my life) and can't stop obsessively thinking about it. Now I am beginning to doubt that it is the strut bearings because most people seem to only have the noise issue when turning their wheels. I have the noise issue all of the time, except when I am driving on the freeway.
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Lately and quite randomly while going over bumps I am hearing a noise that sounds like one of my struts is loose. I checked both struts to make sure that they were solid in place and they are. I go over several bumps in my neighborhood and I can hear the noise, but at the same time I went over a speed bump fast and when the car came down there was no noise. Today I put the car in neutral to let it roll and drove over some reflectors with my right tire and the noise was a bit worse. I took it apart again just now and nothing seems out of the ordinary.
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