Golf/GTI VII :: Squeak Like Noise When Clutch Engages In 2nd And 3rd Gear
Apr 13, 2015
Currently driving a GTI mk7 autobahn 6MT, this is my first manual transmission i have owned.. and have a question about a squeak like noise i hear when the clutch engages in gear 2 and 3.
This does not happen all the time, however i noticed that some / most of the time when i slowly let the clutch out in gear 2 and 3, right after the clutch engages and i let it out the rest of the way, it makes a squeak kinda sound.. almost like springs contract / retracting, i can also slightly feel it in the pedal.
Question is ...is this some what normal? i have never owned a MT car, and cant remember if such a thing happened while driving friends / family MT in the past..
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98 Jetta TDI hydraulic system ... We just received this vehicle from my mother in law, who is not driving any more. It's a cream puff--79,000 miles, beautiful condition. Problem is the clutch engages lower and lower to the floor, and eventually the shifter gets stuck in gear. The brake pedal slowly sinks to the floor when at stops on hills. Our mechanic tells us these two are connected because both the clutch and brake run off the same hydraulic system.
1st time he said the fluid was filthy, and he emptied the system and put in clean fluid. Worked for a little while and then we were back where we started. Second time he replaced a couple parts on the clutch, replaced this fluid, and this time it ran like a dream for a little over a month. Then the problem just returned. Again he says the fluid is filthy, and now we are looking at replacing the master cylinder and again changing the fluid. The theory behind why this is happening is that my mother in law let the car sit for half a year before passing it on to us. She didn't do much driving the 6 months before that either. I've done research, and this doesn't appear to be a common problem by any means on these cars.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Sienna with approx 64K miles. Recently, I am hearing a squealing noise when the AC clutch engages (AC is working fine and blows very cold air). When AC is off for when the clutch is not engaged - no noise at all..... I have been getting alot of different answers as to what it could be and it is very confusing.... to me - it sounds like a clutch issue and I have seen videos on how to take apart and see if it is a bearing or bad clutch. I did pull the belt and checked the pulley - it turns freely and there is no bearing movement. How I can go about getting it repaired without replacing the entire compressor and other expensive parts.
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1996 F150 4x4 with 300/6 and M5OD mazda tranny. 145k miles on it and looking really clean, and just the truck we wanted. It used to be well cared for, but has been a bit neglected since the owner passed away.
I spent a few hours searching the forums here and didn't find anything matching my symptoms exactly so I thought I would just jump in a post, but if I missed a thread feel free to redirect me.
I've got a bit of a rattling noise as the clutch engages when taking off in first. Once the clutch is fully engaged it's quiet and it shifts well and smooth. Noise also occurs (but less so) if I don't match RPM's and ride the clutch into second or third. I don't think its engine noise from lugging or anything because it goes away as soon as the clutch is fully engaged or disengaged.
Changed the trans fluid last night and no different, Clutch fluid reservoir is full, clutch travel feels good, master cylinder looks good, (slave is hidden, but looks dry though dust cover) a little play in the white bushing that holds the clutch pedal bar in place, and the plastic pushrod that goes into the firewall, thinking about replacing this linkage.
I work on big diesels for a living so i'm not scared of getting greasy. I'm almost inclined to think someone did a clutch job without resurfacing the flywheel. Is there an improved replacement for the pedal bracket and linkage? I don't mind just doing the clutch, but I don't want to be throwing my money away.
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I own a 1971 Ford F-250 Custom with the 4 Speed Synchronized Warner T-18 transmission. When I put in the clutch, once it engages, it makes a very loud whirring noise. I'm not concerned about the noise as much as possible issues with the transmission itself.
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I recently changed the clutch in my 1967 F 250, all was golden. This was about 5 months ago , just the other day when going from 2nd to 3rd gear there is a clang and popping feel. the truck was making similar noises before the clutch blew out causing me to change it last time.
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So I've upgraded to K04, and also have put in a DXD Stg2 clutch/flywheel. The issue is that when it engages in 1st gear, it's jerky. No other gear does this, 1-2, 2-3 etc is fine. It's when I'm slowly engaging the clutch from a stand still, it's not a smooth event. Under WOT in all gears it holds just fine too, no slipping or anything else. Slight chatter at idle when the pedal is out, but it's what is to be expected w/ a single mass. I'm very sure that everything was installed correctly. Is this a symptom of an upgraded clutch? I've driven Dave's GTI w/ a STG 3 clutch, and it didn't do that?
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I just picked up my R32 2 days ago and I notice that when it shifts up semi-aggressive (around 4.5 rpm) there is a quick swish sound as the gear engages. It sounds like it is coming from the muffler system, in the rear. What it is?
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I have a 2013 golf r and I usually shift gear at 3 rpm when driving normal but for some reason it doesn't feel right, I can hear the clutch making a weird noise whenever changing gear at a low rpm, it feels so much smoother when shifting above 4 rpm but I dont always wanna punch it so hard especially when there's always traffic from where I live. Any advice on a smoother shift at a low rpm.
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The car runs fine clutch has pressure and everything. I can idle with the clutch pressed down and put into reverse and every gear BUT if I put it in a gear and start to let the clutch out I can hear a clanking or something flying around in there and it doesn't really want to go anywhere and I don't want to really let the clutch all the way out in gear or let it out for too long and screw anything else up worse..
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I have a 2010 GTI with 70K miles. At @ 40K the clutch began to exhibit sort of a slight sudder, and squeak when the car was fully warmed up, but only from starting from a stop on a steep uphill incline. The dealer could not duplicate the problem when routine maintainence was performed, At the 70K maintainence, they could duplicate the problem, and have told me that a new clutch from flywheel on is needed. The Diagnosis was $90 and could not have included any mechanical inspection. One of the Techs told me that there is a list of VIN's that VW apparently identified as having potential clutch issues. My thoughts are:
Even though the car is past the 60K powertrain warranty, the problem was brought to the dealers attention at @40K.
If the car is on the list, VW already knew there could be issues.
I feel that under the circumstances VW could be expected to cover 1/2 of the repair, since the car now has 70K.
Other questions if VW has no interest in working with me:
Can the flywheel be resurfaced? What would the approximate cost for labor to replace the clutch by an Independent garage? The car operates as usual, just with the one issue. I would like to have repair done fairly soon.
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I recently (1.5 months ago) had my clutch replaced because my clutch pivot ball was making noise and with 70000 miles on the clutch, the mechanic suggested replacing the entire thing. The clutch works beautifully, except that just recently my clutch pedal has started to make a squeak/ creak noise. It's not very loud, although it seems louder when it's particularly hot and muggy. It sounds like it is coming from the pedal and it makes the noise regardless of whether the car is on or off. What might be causing this?
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I've had my .:R for a while now, gotten used to its little quirks. But one thing that sparks my interest (not really worrisome though) is I have a squeaking noise when the starter motor engages. It definitely squeaks once per revolution for about 4-5 sqeaks, and it's noticeable in and out of the car. Is it a bearing going bad?
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Just bought a 2009 Accent 5 speed I have 2500 miles on it .The clutch engages when the pedal is right at the top. Is there an adjustment on this vehicle I would prefer it to engage about mid stroke.
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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer with AC that is not cooling. The AC clutch engages, then cycles off and repeats the process over and over. With a gauge on the low side port, the pressure rises to around 65 psi when the compressor is off, then drops in seconds down to nearly 10 psi. Does this indicate low AC pressure? I have always seen the pressure pretty much stay static at a certain pressure....haven't ever seen it fluctuate like that from low to high as the compressor kicks in and out.
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In every other manual transmission vehicle I have ever driven, the clutch pedal engages/disengages within an inch of the floor. Is it normal that the clutch in my 2002 Hyundai Elantra engages when the pedal is so far away from the floor? When I say far away from the floor I mean within an inch of the pedal being fully released.
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1996, f150, 300, 4x4, 5 speed, 296,000 miles... My pedal goes almost to the floor before the clutch engages and about a half inch, maby less, of travel back out the clutch disengages. I think it is about time for a new clutch. My question is what is the best clutch to put in my truck?
while i have the transmission slid back to replace the clutch i am planning on replacing the slave cylinder while im in there as well. Any particular brand better than the next on that item? Are there any other items that I should think about replacing while i have the transmission slid back to do the clutch?
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2004 Ford Ranger revs the engine when you engage the clutch then when you place it in gear it's like the cruises on it want to drive without you touching the Accelerator?
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A high pitched squeal appears to come from the front of the a/c compressor whenever the clutch engages. When the clutch disengages the compressor stops spinning, and the squeal stops. I can watch and listen to this as the system cycles with the a/c switched on. If I turn off the a/c, no squeal. I'm guessing the bearings in the compressor are going out. However, the system still cools normally, so apparently no gas has leaked out.
Does this imply the compressor must be replaced, or could injection of some oil into the system possibly fix it...?
This car only has 73,000 miles on it. I've owned 2 other TB's and a couple classic Mustangs with much higher miles and never seen an a/c compressor bearings fail.
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2006 4.2L The pedal is good and the fluid is full but the clutch engages and releases about 2 inches from the floorboard. Is there possibly a rod that can be adjusted at the slave cylinder that moves the engage/release point along the pedal travel? Any thoughts before I get out the creeper?
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Just bought my first r 32 recently , had previously owned a 20th anniversary GTI, anyway guy i bought the car from mentioned the awd system was not working , recently was driving and clutch would not go into gear in addition to the haldex or awd not functioning . The clutch also kinda "stuck" to the floor .. Also I noticed some fluid on the undercarriage the day I brought it home . I'm pretty sure the car was beat on but there aren't many available up this way , and honestly I know I'm prob gonna spend some to get her road worthy again , Also felt like the car was operating in rwd for some reason and traction control light is on.
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