So last night I was on my way home, was going through 2nd gear when all of a sudden my car sputtered and just died. It will keep cranking but just won't run. I have a SE 6MT. Had it for 4 months and almost 11,000 miles on it. Tow it to the dealer today, they went through the car and determined it's the fuel pump and will be replaced under warranty.
View 2 RepliesI drove my truck 2 times the day it stopped running. The 3rd time I tried to leave it started moved about 2 ft, spit and sputtered and died. It had blown the fuel pump fuse. I changed it and checked the fuel shut -off in the cab, passenger side. It was not tripped. Tried to start it and as soon as I turned the key it blew the fuse again. I changed the fuse again and this time I changed the fuel relay and the switch in the cab. Turned the key and it blew the fuse right away. Went to AutoZone because they are close to the house described what it was doing to them and they said sounds like a short in the fuel pump.
I purchased a new pump put it in turned key blew the fuse, pump just clicked...I found this site and my son noticed a thread where it said wires under the cab are good for wearing through and grounding out. I looked and it did wear through one wire coating. We taped it up, put extra cover over it and now it does not blow any fuses. Fuel pump still just clicked. Took fuel pump back for an exchange.....same thing. Turns over but fuel pump will not pump fuel. What am I missing?......
Truck quit running yesterday suddenly and unexpectedly. It sputtered briefly and the motor total quit running. I pulled over and tried to start and it briefly fired but then totally quit. Got towed home. And now testing to see what all to repair..Thinking fuel.
I don't get any codes from the tester with KOEO..just the good to go etc..no codes or the good to go 111..etc. Guess this problem can't be identified without motor running.
My wiring diagram doesn't give me all for my Calif car..I don't see where the relay is but my fuses are all good, and I'm getting voltage when I crank the motor at that inside firewall switch on both its wires(incoming/outgoing)..forget what its called..Inertia Switch?..that will shut off fuel pump during accident or impact etc. And I've read that this switch is upstream of the relay(if I read that post correctly) so guessing it's the pump itself that is bad.
Does that sound right? Should I go ahead and pull the fuel tank etc and replace the pump? Or is there more testing I should do? When I turn the ignition key on..the pump makes zero sound. That's not the way it normally operates. Usually with the key on the fuel pump comes on momentarily and I can hear it. Forget how to drain the fuel tank etc..I don't see a drain plug? I did it once many years ago..but forget how?
So, I just had the fuel pump replaced on my '15 6.7 a month ago and it just died again. (next day edit: it didn't actually die, it showed all the same symptoms)
Same symptoms: whining sound, low fuel pressure warning, reduced power warning.
This time I'm 50 miles from home so I pulled off the road before it shut off. Interesting, I was in a hilly area and my low fuel warning came on too. We are waiting for a tow. I was considering trying to push on but don't want to get stuck in a dangerous spot on the highway. We're in a church parking lot.
So, last time this happened I was on flat road with about a half tank of fuel on a lunch break. I ran a mile after the warnings came on to feel out the issue and to see what would happen. I happened to be only about a mile away from my dealer so I drove that way. I got reduced power warning and then it cut power on me (limp mode). I made it to about 100 yards away before it cut off.
This time, I was in a hilly area at night on a windy two lane road with no shoulders in the woods. I was miles from civilization and was showing below a quarter tank of fuel. ~100 miles to EMPTY. I got the low fuel pressure warning first and then the reduced power mode before the whining noise started. I was climbing a hill on a curve at the time. I drove a quarter mile and then pulled off the road into a parking lot so I wouldn't be stuck on the shoulder. It didn't actually go into limp mode.
I let it sit a few minutes, talked it over with the wife and decided to call for a tow. After talking to the tow truck driver who said he would be an hour because he had to go find a bigger truck, I decided to see what I could do while I wait. I fired it back up and the fuel level dropped to below 1/8 and I was now showing 33 miles to EMPTY. I was parked on a hill with the back end up. I had backed the truck into a space to make it easier for the tow truck driver. I let it run a minute, checked for leaks and it seemed to run fine with no studdering or additional warning lights.
CEL was on but no new warnings. I put in my code reader and pulled the P0087. Just one code. I revved it a bit to see if there were any issues. It seemed fine so I decided to try my luck. I started driving towards home with the intention to stop at the first diesel station to fill up. Truck ran fine. After two minutes of driving gently, heart racing, my fuel level came back up and it now read 88 miles to EMPTY. I drove 11 miles to the nearest station and filled up. No issues. I shut it down. I fired it back up. Still no issues so with a full tank, I drove home the remaining 30 miles without issue.
Planning to take it in to the dealer Monday to get it checked. Could this be from an air pocked due to low fuel level and hilly terrain? Is my new pump dying already? Is there something else going on inside the tank or elsewhere?
My jimmy died on me yesterday on my way home from work...i thought the fuel pump went because i couldn't hear it when trying to restart... I had about a quarter tank of regular in there,,,put in 2 gallons of super and it started, but died again about a quarter mile down the road...got it home with a push...after searching for and checking any fuses i could find...swapped relays on firewall and all seemed well....i heard the pump and it fired right up...went walked, just in case) and got another relay, and now i don't hear the pump again,the battery is a bit low now,,,so maybe a jump would give me enough juice? I'm going to jumper the wires/relay...and be sure the pump is working... I'm sure it is.. 94 jimmy 4.3 vortec 140k I gotta pick up my wife from work later and don't want to get stuck again...
View 9 RepliesJust poking around under the hood of my new car. Removed the oil fill cap while the engine was running and it promptly sputtered and died. I've done that countless times on non-turbo engines to get a better listen to the valve train, and never had an engine die on me, including my B5.5 V6. Put the fill cap back on and it cranked right up and idled normally again. No CEL or other lights. Is that normal?
View 11 RepliesI have been chasing down what was a perceived vacuum leak...
My Ex (V10, 4x4, 217K miles) started to have an intermittent rough running/no power situation very randomly. No codes on the scanner, and no real apparent cause or condition to pin it down. I noticed what sounded like a like throttle ping...figured it was a vacuum leak someplace in the spaghetti under the hood.
I began to run down the possibilities. I have recently had the entire suspension replaced and upgraded all 4 corners to Power Stop brakes. Figured it might be something related like the classic lines to the hubs.
Replaced the vacuum lines to the hubs - ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
Replaced the vacuum switch for the hubs - ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
Replaced fuel filter - ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
Ordered a new vacuum reservoir...
While waiting on that, changed all 10 plugs and coils. Not. Cheap. Ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
Replaced IAC - ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
As I was getting ready to install the vacuum res, it just croaked. it would turned over like it wanted to start, but wouldn't catch.
Of course.... So, now it had to be towed and yes, the fuel pump puked and that was that. I've never had one do anything but just quit suddenly before, so lesson learned. Evidently these pump can act up for a bit before they die.
So a couple days ago I started my truck and it fired up like normal, but then sputtered out and died after a few seconds. I tried starting it up again and it did the same thing. I tried once more and it started up fine and I drove away.
It sounds like my truck is running out of breath or something and just sputtering out. Runs fine once it turns over though. My issue is that it is happening almost every time I start it now. I have to turn it a couple times before it catches. What this might be?
A mechanic has my car and replaced my timing belt and water pump....he said he had it running and then it sputtered out and wont start..i have never had a problem with this car. Just replacing before it went out.. he is missing something.
View 19 RepliesR's at the dealer today for a faulty fuel float sensor, and they just called to let me know my vehicle has the wrong fuel pump in it. Seems mine has the pump for the Golf/Rabbit with the 4 cylinder engine and they need to keep the car until the part is in.
View 16 RepliesI recently had my fuel pump replaced in my 2005 GTI ... twice. Both times, the fuel gauge no longer shows a full tank, and doesn't show empty tank correctly. Is there some way to reset the gauge? Is the pump somehow tied to the gauge, or did the mechanics mess the float up when they changed the pump? Sadly I had it repaired somewhere other then the dealer.
View 1 RepliesI have an incredibly reliable 03 Echo, manual trans that has never had any issues starting or running well. TODAY, I started it and about a block down the road is sputtered and stopped. The engine is turning over powerfully when I turn the key and it tries to start for a couple seconds then just turns over. It's like it's not getting any fuel.
View 1 RepliesI have an '02 GTI VR6. It died on me on the freeway after surging then limping to a stop and wouldn't restart. I replaced my fuel pump 5 months ago and now I suspect that it has died again, but I want to be absolutely sure that the pump is the problem before I replace it again.
Last time the car would sometimes hesitate in 1st and 2nd for a couple weeks before the pump actually went bad. This time it seemed fine for 5 months then just went out.
The pump does not prime when I open the door. I checked fuse #28 and it's not blown, but there doesn't seem to be any power to it. I tested the power to the fuel pump connector. When I turn the key on I get ~12v for a split second then nothing. While cranking the engine I get ~9v constantly. I hooked a square 9v battery straight to the two outside connectors on the pump and nothing happened.
Can I be sure that the pump is the only problem? Obviously it's dead, but is there any reason for fuse 28 to not be getting power? And should the connector only be getting power for a split second when the ignition is turned on? I tried a different fuel pump relay with no change.
Recently I bought a aem fuel pump only to find out it was for a vr6... go figure. so i said no big deal took it off and put my old one back on. Everything worked fine before now but now that i have put the old fuel pump back in i am not getting any fuel at all.
View 6 RepliesHowever, my fuel pump seems to be having a small issue intermittently. So I was wondering if you can upgrade the fuel pump without upgrading anything else? Is that acceptable or would it mess things up? I plan on getting the DTM kit in the future.
View 3 RepliesI need to test the stock fuel pump. Best way of doing so?
View 8 RepliesMy R32's Fuel Pump Fuse keeps blowing. This started after driving my car in a bad rainstorm. I think water may have gotten in the door which could be causing the short, but I am not sure. This car has two fuel pumps as it's been modified. I know for a fact the main fuel pump works as it did prime after replacing the fuse (then letting the car sit over night then opening the door). Right after the fuel pump primed though, the fuse blew. I decided to replace the fuse and start the car. The car started and ran for maybe a second or two before the fuse blew. I took a look at this thread in regards to the fuel pump not working as I thought the fuel pump was dead till today. I was wondering what are the possible problems that could be causing the fuse to blow? Could it be the relay? Could it be the switch in the door shorting? Also, where would I find the relay? I know it's under the dash, but is it under the panel on the passenger side or driver side?
View 1 RepliesSo lately have had few symptoms of fuel pump going out and all that but tonight randomly wouldn't start and I mean no power, no lights, no turn over, no anything like my key fob won't even set my alarm or unlock car is this another symptom.
View 12 RepliesMy R is garage kept, and every morning when I open the door, I can hear the fuel pump make a quick priming run. Well, not "every morning"; sometimes it doesn't do it's two second prime, and when that happens the car usually takes two cranks to start.
(I know that there is a timer. If you have been driving the car, shut the car off, close the door, and then open it, it is not going to prime, but I'm talking about after the car has been sitting all night.) This issue could be related to my door-lock-craziness issue.
If the fuel pump in the right rear of the car is making an audible noise, does that mean it is the incorrect fuel pump, or is that normal?
View 2 RepliesAt only 51,200 miles, it looks like my fuel pump is starting to go bad. Making way much more "noise" than usual.Guess this is what happens when you drive around with the gas tank on "E" half the time. $262 at 1st VW Parts.
View 5 Replies