Golf/GTI VII :: Running Neuspeed Power Module On Setting 7?
Jan 10, 2015
I truly enjoy the benefits of of having the added hp/torque. However, I've only been able to use setting 5. I'm curious as to what would happen if you constantly ran the module on setting 7 without having 100+ octane in the tank? I went to Neuspeed's site and saw that they ran 91 octane for both settings while performing their dyno. So now I'm curious and hoping that one of you have the answer.
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My MPG has fallen ~ 35% since the intake was installed. Barely did 20mpg driving at 75mph from Vegas to LA and now averaging about 17mpg on the next tank. What should I be looking for? I'm stage 1 APR (was before the Neuspeed as well) stage 1.
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I had the neuspeed springs installed last weekend and now the Front right side make a loud clicking noise every one turn on the steering wheel. it sounds like the springs it self. What could it be?
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This noise I have is driving me crazy, installed neuspeed race springs and now I have this weird spring noise, sounds like the springs are binding and then releasing when you turn the wheel, like a clicking dinging noise, it's on both sides and happens when moving slow and turning the wheel and when stationary and turning wheel, it sounds like tug and release not really spring bind I checked install and everything is correct even disassembled bearing assembly and everything is fine, lubed spring seats with silicone paste nothing is working.
When looking at the spring and turning wheel it's almost like the spring is getting stuck on the middle part of the seat then releasing, I know this was a common problem on the mk6 but I haven't heard anything about the mk7 the spring is seated in the lower perch perfectly the upper is were the noise is coming from you can see as you turn the upper bearing by hand it actually somewhat twists the spring and then releases and that's what makes the noise, and it dose not move in a nice circular motion kind of like an egg shaped rotation and it makes the spring flex and pop I think there's a problem with the springs,
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Before I changed my driver's lock module, when I removed my key and opened the door, the car would still have power to close the sunroof and windows, but now with the new module once I open the door the power's all off. I have to resort to everything closing when I lock the car (KVW100).
Why this is happening and how I can revert to being able to close the windows without having to leave the key in? Not that it's a huge issue; just felt it was a nicer convenience how it used to be.
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Getting this code. 01309 - Power Steering Control Module (J500) on my 2012 GTI. Does the module need to be reset or does it need to be replaced?
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Either running A/C or heat.. air only blows on the '2' and '4' setting.. so I have middle of the road or WOT when it comes to the amount of air. On the '1' setting nothing comes out and '3' setting is the exact same at the '2' setting. What is going on with this.
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Is there a way to program a 15 is with enform remote start to activate the day time running lights?
And change the settings that require you to restart the car once you get in after remote start ?
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First it was the whole spark plug debacle. Now it's the "fuel pump module". Story starts a several months back. On a moist day I was headed out and the truck ran very rough, "clunky", like it wasn't getting gas. After 15 miles and a stop truck ran fine. Didn't think much of it and truck ran fine for month or so. I was then away for a couple days and came home to find my truck wouldn't run (started briefly then died). Local mechanic thought it might be a fuel pump issue but then got truck running thinking it might have been a delayed inertia switch in front panel (I had hit a deer a week or 2 prior). Again, not thinking much of it continued to drive truck with no issues for awhile. Then one rainy morning on my way to work the truck was running very rough and "clunky" again. It died several times and finally for good.
After getting it towed to the mechanics, he figured the fuel pump was finally shot. The end to my long story is it was the fuel pump module (luckily a lot cheaper fix than the fuel pump) - half of the housing was gone (corroded away) adn moisture was shorting the pump electronics. Why, if this module is half encased in plastic do the engineers feel the need to encase the other half in metal (appeared to be cast aluminum)??!!????!! Of course it makes sense to have an electrical unit that is mounted underneath the truck where it can collect all the moisture, snow, salt from the road encased in a corrodable metal housing. No no, don't put it all in plastic, just half of the unit. MAKES PERFECT SENSE!! I thought to be and engineer took some sort of brains and common sense. Must be not at Ford. I can't be the only one with this issue and wondering WHY!!! - it must be widespread??
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I just put on some brand new Bilstein shocks/struts with new mounts and some Neuspeed springs. It seems like the rear sits lower than the front. Maybe some polo bushings to bring the front down a bit? No stereo stuff of anything in the trunk..
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Took my 99 XLT super cab to a Ford dealer to have a new key made (I have only one so can't do it myself). I was told the PAT (Passive Anti-Theft) module wouldn't communicate with their system.....
As I understand it, the PAT module communicates wirelessly to the key module under the steering column. Since the PAT module is obviously working (the truck cranks, starts and runs fine). What are they talking about?
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Is there a way to set idle higher than 715rpm?
I want it set to 1100rpm.
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So tonight I went to turn my fan on for my heat when I started my car and noticed it is will only work when it is on the highest speed (4 I think). What the issue could be?
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Installing STs on my mk6 tomorrow. Doing it in a steep driveway. want to be on the highest setting when I leave. regular v1 st coil over.
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I have a 00 Jetta 2.0 AEG engine code and my cooling fans don't seem to be kicking on the low setting. I have changed out my FCM and have also checked the fans to see if they were burnt out and both fans work on both low and high settings. This is also causing my car to overheat but the high speed will kick on when the temp gets too high.
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I've got a 2010 Jetta TDI Sportwagen and the blower fan stopped working (again).
About 3 months ago it stopped working on the 1-3 setting and 4 worked fine. So I searched these forums and found the resistor pack was blown. Replaced it with the ~$30 official VW part and it worked fine until last week.
Now all settings are not working. I ohm'd out the resistor pack and they appear to be fine. I put a current limited 12v supply on the fan and it spun up without a problem. I checked the voltage coming from the car to the fan connector and it was at 0v.
From reading the forums this tends to point to a faulty switch. If it is a fault switch then why does the AC light turn on when I switch from 0 to 1?
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I just got st coils and apr stg1 software put in my car and love it. the question i have is the other day my tpms light came on, so when the guys installed my software (today) the tried to set the pressures and clear the light and it wont go off i want to take it to the dealer but I don't want them to give me a hard time about the mods.
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Because of the cold weather my tires went a little low in pressure and my light came on. Now i set all the tires to correct psi and light is still on. is there a way to reset the light without going to the dealership? went through manual and says nothing about resetting light.
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I am installing Torque Pro and Car Gauge Pro on my Yellow Submarine. To keep an eye on things. Well installing it on my tablet, and installing that in my Yellow Sub. I already have the Bluetooth dongle. What to set up, what to monitor, what to test? Etc..... I want to continuously monitor this truck while driving it. Being it went swimming.
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I just purchased my first VW about a month ago. (Golf tsi white auto). I love the way the car drives/handles. But I was surprised because at just under a 1000 miles the engine light went on. Took it to VW service to check it out. They had to keep it for a few days to do tests with the main VW center. I got the car back without much explanation other than they put in an O2 sensor.
No engine light now for a couple weeks. They also noticed that my wheels are missing 4 lug nut covers (not a big deal). For some reason I am just starting to notice the green brake light on when I first turn on the ignition prior to setting in reverse which disappears upon reverse or drive. I assume this is normal... Question: should I be concerned about this engine light O2 sensor issue?
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I have a 2003 Jetta 2.0 with the drive by wire throttle and I've been having some problems with it lately.
When on the highway (at a constant speed) sometimes it's almost like you take your foot off the accelerator pedal, then when you go to press it more, nothing happens, until you pump it a few times, it works again. This sounds like an electrical problem to me, not fuel or spark, because it's not sputtering at all, it just ignores your accelerator input. Is the "throttle module" a serviceable part?
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