I have just this past week noticed that my rev needle is not smooth when coming down the range! It shudders and is annoying in that way that now i have seen it I cannot un see it!!
It is very smooth on the way up under acceleration.
So my r32 is the first DSG car I've owned. Been about over a year now and the gear change from 2 to 3 is not rough, but I can feel it. Almost like a bad dogbone mount...but only up shifting from 2-3. It does always happen. There are a lots of factors that come into play, throttle input, load, rpm, whether spark cut kicks in or not. DSG fluid is changed every 30k, UM engine/DSG combo. HPA puck.
The second issue happens much less frequently. Under heavy load, 2500-3200 rpm, in 3rd or 4th gear, the following upshift to 4th or 5th does something very strange. For some reason, when spark cut kicks in a too low an rpm in too high of a gear it engages the next gear then very quickly disengages and engages again. Almost as if it were another upshift.
VCDS doesn't allow me to access the PIDS for each individual shift solenoid, or the metering valve. Neither does the factory scan tool. I've been trying to catch the strange clutch activity in a log to post but every time I take my computer in the car and log the clutch activity it behaves normally.
I've just got my 2015 GTI a few months. I'm driving manual with my GTI daily commute to work, getting along well. However sometimes I'll be struggling with the manual when approving a corner or a stop, and I'm not having a smooth up shift with 3rd and 4th gear (odd eh? most of the people will have difficulties starting up but since I've been taught so I'm fine...)
To be more specific:
1. Just want to know what REV usually will be done? e.g. 3rd gear with decent speed, would you maintain it until it revs up to 3k? or would you up shift when passing 2k+? Usually I'm doing the latter so I guess this is why I'm having a sluggish/jerky up shift with 3rd and 4th gear. And would you still put on a little bit gas when engaging with 3rd and 4th gear?
2. What to do when approaching stop? Assuming you don't have enough distance to down shift each gear. EITHER: Break with the current gear and clutch in until it reach 1k rev and complete stop; OR: down shift at least once to a lower gear and break until complete stop?
From a dead stop it takes a second to go and isn't super smooth, slightly jerky. Seems fine for all other gears, just from dead stop it isn't a smooth transition into 1st gear. Is this typical of DSG or no?
View 8 RepliesToday I was driving on the freeway and a noticed my cars exhaust burbles way more than it used to, like it used to do it at around 1500 rpm when I am decelerating or between shifts, now it always does it when I decelerate like there is no smooth decelerating sound I used to have its just all crackle and burble, I do have an exhaust leak but I've had it since I did my down pipe and it was fine before, I've ordered an oem one and ill slap it on when im doing my fmic install, i did replace all coilpacks yesterday so maybe I did it wrong if its even possible to do that wrong. And also my windshield has so many nicks in it like it looks like a lot of dirt on the windshield, it looks like it'll wipe off but it doesn't there's no cracks just tiny dings all over the windshield.
View 5 RepliesVW GTI 1.8T 5 speed.
So I've blown the differential on my transmission, it's been blown for a little while. I have basically no transmission fluid at all.
Question: Why is the car still driving normally?
Some time ago I was getting a transmission fluid flush and change, my gear shifter was a bit stiff before the change and after changing the fluid it became smoother.
According to my mechanic that would be the result of changing the fluid.
Question: So then why is my gear shifter completely smooth without any transmission fluid at all and a blown differential?
Question: what will happen if I leave it like this? I'm assuming it will eventually seize up?
I noticed a month ago that my transmission didn't feel as smooth whenever I shifted. It would come and go, it'd feel smooth and then out of nowhere it wouldn't be smooth again. It feels similar to when you sit inside a car when it's off and you move the shifter from gear to gear (a nonsmooth feeling). So this Monday I decided to empty out a bit of transmission fluid and add some transmission additive. I drove around and it did feel much smoother. However, it does not feel as smooth as it has always felt. The car runs perfect, it just comes down to my personal preference in smoothness.
Mk4 GTI 1.8t 2003
I have a 97 f150 lariat 4.6L 150,000+ miles, and I am getting a lot of electrical things going wrong, been looking, and found sum kind of electric module could be the issue, except the problem are a bit dif then the ones listed. I am just wondering if it could be my issue. my problems are, 4x4 and low range light come on and off with clicking coming from under dash, daytime lights work here and there, air bag light flashes.
Then this morn my wife went to leave for work and there was a air leak hissing sound coming from the brake pedal area and that was b4 she started the truck, then she said when she got there that the heater stayed on after she shut it off and there was a beeping sound coming from the glove box. I am a general diy mechanic and dont know electrical very well, and i am at a loss.
My steering wheel seems like it is bout to fall off, and when making turns it seems to bind and not wanna turn, but when i try to pull on it, it seems sturdy but it will kinda flop if i go side to side or up and down with it.
I drive a 2016 Golf TSI S and I am having this weird brake problem. Every time I try to modulate my braking, it would suddenly bite and brake hard then let go. It feels like the front and back brakes are not in sync or something. This happens when I am going slow or less than 20mph. Its really hard to slow down to a smooth stop especially in traffic when this happens.
View 1 Replies2013 MKVI golf TDI with DSG. I use the manual mode a lot and now the shifter makes a squeak noise and is no longer a smooth movement. Ive attached a video link below of the noise.
I've tried spraying silicone lube down into the shifter and it hasn't made any difference. How I can maybe take the shifter apart and grease it?
[URL] ....
So about a week ago I took my car to the stealership for the coolant gauge needle. Whenever I started the car in the past, the needle jumps right up and eventually settles at 190. At the time however, it just wouldn't budge on startup. After each startup,(5-10 min of driving), the needle would slowly but surely make it's way up to 190.
So I took it there and they replaced the system (I'll get the service receipt posted up soon) and it solved the problem for a day.
Now, a few days after, it's doing the same bs again. I'm going to take it there AGAIN soon to check it out. Just wish they could get it right the first time [/rant] .
I started my a while ago and the rpm needle was going up and down non stop and the car was jumping a slight bit, I plug it into my scanner and got code P0101 what does this mean...
View 7 RepliesNoticed this at speeds below 40 MPH. My speedometer needle will wobble a small amount, but over 40 MPH its is dead steady. I have noticed this a few times.
View 6 RepliesCar: Golf Mkvi tsi (122hp/90kw) 7DSG Highline/GT
Mileage:8500km
My car started giving a rattling sound when idle 2-3 months ago. If the rev's needle is at 800rpm that woody woodpecker sound comes from the backseats (or maybe not, it's hard to tell). I slightly press the gas pedal and the sound's gone.
I remember the car to be dead silent during the first months, like omg i can hear my heart beating.
Frame notch went smooth, we pulled the bag and disconnected the axle from the hub and just pulled everything out of the way. When we reassembled everything, the wheel now pokes 3/4-1 inch more than it did before. We pulled the axle back out and realigned it and made sure it seated properly and messed with the strut and its bolt to make sure there was no play or anything (it was reinstalled with the same orientation), but nothing seemed to change it. Could just disconnecting those two things cause the camber to go out of whack that badly? When installing the bags I didn't run into this issue and the camber was barely even off when I got it aligned. Trying to find out what could possibly cause it to get that far off. When I installed the bags the camber and toe barely even changed.
Also, I can't even air out all the way now because the wheels were a perfect fit before, and now they poke too much... but with 17 psi in the right front bag, the axle is dangerously close to the turbo outlet. Seems to feel like barely a business card could fit between the two. The frame notch was done correctly and was the 5th one my buddy has done.
1912298_10201505446825691_1396899283_n by Chadillac910, on Flickr
Was on my way to my girlfriend's house and decided to do a few pulls. Noticed afterwards my rpm gauge was stuck at 6k rpms and wouldn't go any lower. The car was running fine and I was in 6th gear just cruising at 55mph. Did another pull and after that it was stuck at 8k and if I downshifted the needle would max out at the 6 o'clock position. When I arrived I turned my car off to see if it would reset itself and it got stuck at 7k rpm.
View 15 RepliesSo my girlfriend got a 2002 Jetta Wagon 2.0 automatic (PRND321, no tiptronic). She noted when she was driving fast on the driveway highway one day her speedo stopped climbing and would wiggle around 60mph and not go any further even if she was going 80+.
I would have thought first that the speed sensor would be messed up. Went to the junkyard and pulled 2 speed sensors for cheaper then 1/4 of new. Put the newer cleaner part on and the same exact issues. Locks up and wont climb past ~65mph and the needle wiggles. I am guessing its not the sensor. Question is what could cause it? Could it be the actual internal gear in that meshes with the transmission? Ill try replacing, i have extra i think. But could this be a cluster or a computer issue? And the odometer is also off. When it gets stuck at the slow speed, the mileage won't count at the full speed. She drove to a friends at a known 80 miles away and it only said its was low 70-something on the gauge when she got there. So there is a discrepancy of mileage count too.
I am going to head to the junkyard soon and thinking of pulling a cheap cluster to try it out, but I also heard you might need a VCDS for the immobilizer in the cluster. And the mileage is stored on the cluster or not? What should I pursue next?
Is there a way to do it? I've noticed if i'm coming directly at the side of the car, the range is alright, but if I'm coming towards it from the front/back, I have to be within 10 feet for it to work.
It's getting on my nerves and I'd like to be able to walk away from the car and lock it from a greater distance.
My MKV would do it from across the parking lot, the MKVI will barely do it if I'm standing right next to it. Whats the deal and how can I fix this?
My car has the KESSY system, and over the past month I've been having the following issues:
1) Sometimes, when I try to unlock the car by touching the sensor area on the door handle, the car will not unlock. No matter how i make "finger contact" or how long I hold contact, there is no response. This happens frequently recently. (I still can unlock the door using the unlock button on the remote though.)
2) sometimes, when I get into the car, with the key remote in my pocket, the center display will read "Key not in range" when I attempt to push the engine start button.
Number two has only happened to me twice.
The first occasion, I just pressed the button again and the car started no problem. The second occasion that this happened, I pushed the button again, and the engine attempted to turn over, without firing, and displaying the check engine light. The car started on the third try and was fine since.
Considerations: It's been cold lately where I am (Average ambient temperatures 35F and below). I have not tried to replicate these symptoms with the other remote. (Considering that perhaps the remote's battery is low.)
Car is a 2012 GTI 6MT with APR intake.
Within the last couple of days, my engine temperature gauge has been acting a little strange. The needle will fluctuate depending on if I'm accelerating or at speed. I've actually seen it go down several times before going back up to normal temp. On a couple of days, it will go up to about halfway to normal temp, and just stay there for a lot longer than it usually seems to.
There have also been times when the car is at normal operating temp, I'll go into a store for maybe 15 minutes, and when I come out, it shows the engine temperature is maybe halfway to where it should be. Then it will go back to normal after a few minutes of driving. I would think that if the engine is warm, it should stay there for more than 15 minutes, even if the car isn't on.
We haven't had any abnormally cold days lately, and I'm not getting any CEL, but I was wondering if anything to worry about, or if it's normal.
So I recently bought a 2004 R32 after owning like 5 other vw's (always wishing they were R's). Anyway, I am experiencing some humming noise... not quite a vibration, but the "humming" is strong enough that you can sort of feel it through the car. The "humming" happens at a range from about 30-60 mph and is only present when I'm turning left, or when there is more force on the passenger side of the car. When I'm going straight, it is very slight, but if I turn even slightly to my left it gets louder/stronger. When turning right and force is off the passenger side and on the driver side, the symptom is not present. It seems like it's coming from my front end as well, not rear.
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