Golf/GTI VII :: Rear Passenger Door Opens Half Way When Under 32F Outside
Jan 5, 2016
First day that is below freezing and my rear passenger driver side door is hard to open more than half way. I really have to push it to open all the way. How to fix this?
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I have an '08 Touareg. The automatic door motor on the rear tailgate is having an issue. It closes with no problem when you push the button. However, when you try to open it, the door opens about half way and then cuts out. It is rather difficult to open the door manually. Is it a motor issue, or just a fuse or relay issue?
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After getting my car washed on Friday I noticed that the key fob no longer opens the passenger door. It used to be that pressing the unlock button twice would open both doors. Is it possible that some combination of buttons or something caused this to stop working? The button in the door unlocks the passenger door just fine.
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Passenger door on my 93. I took some pix to try to figure out what was going on and what I'm dealing with because I'm basically having to go in blind. The door opens from the inside but won't from the outside. Awhile back it was becoming difficult to open from the outside, like you really had to give it a solid tug to get the door to open. Now it won't open from the outside at all. I noticed today that the handle is a little loose and I found out why once I looked in there: there is only 1 bolt holding the handle on instead of 2 (not sure how that could possibly be causing my problem???) For now I pushed the door panel back on and shut the door (minus screws/bolts/plates) because I'd like to figure this out soon!
Pictures : [URL] .....
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On the passenger side where the door opens up the paint seems to be scraping off... It's pretty noticeable on my black car. It's only this one side.. The door doesn't touch that piece so I'm not sure what caused it.
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I just picked up a Black 20th tonight. All stock with 48,000 miles. I'll get some pics up asap. But for now I'm gonna be lurking around trying to work out the kinks of the car. The Temp gauge doesn't work and the passenger door only opens from the inside when first unlocked.
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I have a mkvi gti with all stock suspension except rear sway bar. And I'm right about to order driver gear springs. But have a question about suspension. My rear driver side of the car sits about half inch lower then then rear passenger side on a flat ground. Would this be caused by springs? Or struts? Or what. Planning on ordering the driver gear springs but what the real problem is. I want the driver gear so I'm a bit lowered but not crazy low since the roads in my home town are awful and my street I have to do figure 8's all the way down it to not hit a pot hole.
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I have a 4 door GTI and almost every time I hit some kind of bump I hear noises from the rear passenger side door. It sounds like the door is not completely latched on and it bouncing/wiggling inside the door jam. I've checked that the door is closed all the way and that there are no gaps in the panels or anything of that sort.
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My wife and I just noticed today in our 2010 GTI that the rear passenger door does not lock at all. It does not matter if I use the remote or the one on the drivers door. Also when I use the remote, the alarm sets but when the back door is opened it doesn't go off.
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Ok this may be a dumb post, but my MK6 Jetta 2.5 SE didn't come with footwell lighting that turns on when the door opens up. I want to know if there is at least a PLACE for one that I can install easily?
or is there a way I can get a footwell lighting kit that I can buy and install?
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2001 golf interior lights don't come on if any door opens, car doesn't recognize any of the doors to be open on the dash. I read it could be bad door lock modules, but does that happen to all 4 or could it be an electrical issue?
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I recently recognized a clicking noise from the passenger door when I open it half way or even fully.
up to now I'm still assuming its a lubing issue as it is really cold in here Ottawa, Canada.
I have read a thread that was talking about the same issue and the guy found that there was a bolt wasn't tighten enough from the factory that caused the clicking sound.
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My MK4 golf has the rear passenger door shut, cannot be opened from inside or out. The outside handle has no tension, just floppy.
I managed to take the card off, even though I cannot open the door.
So my issue is if I keep dismantling til I get to the door lock, is there any simple way to open the door ? I've seen lots where people can change the lock if the door opens but can it be opened if the door is closed or do I somehow have to smash the lock ?
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So, I'm pulling my hair out now. I loaned my car to a friend for a few months while I was out of the country and now that I've gotten it back, the rear hatch will only open with the key. I've searched online for days and tried several things but, nothing is working. Here's what's going on and what I've tried.
The back opens perfectly with the key (i.e. there's nothing stuck in the latch)
When I use the fob, the lights flash but the actuator doesn't move (there's no noise other than the lights flashing)
When I pull the switch in the drivers door nothing happens (can't remember if the lights are supposed to flash or not but they DON'T now)
When I lift on the handle in the trunk nothing happens
I've pulled the interior back hatch cover off and tried to activate the actuator using a 9V battery and it did nothing so, I thought it was a dead actuator. I just dropped $60 on a new one, plugged it in, shut the hatch and nothing happened....
I don't have access to VAGCOM or anything like that so, hopefully there are things that I can test w/o that?
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My wife has been complaining about a noise from her 2005 expo.
As she drove the truck today I have narrowed the noise down to the right side of the half shaft. From looking underneath and comparing what I was seeing and hearing, the track bar is not centered. Its more in on the driver side and out on the passenger side. I had her to stand on the running board and shake the truck.
I can definitely hear a kinda cluck? It sounds like the half shaft going to the tire but at the same time the bushing on the outer tire rod end. I can't determine what it is exactly.
when you rock the truck you can definitely hear it. Its not like violent loud but i'd like to get it taken care of. I looked for some grease points but I don't see none..
2nd question for the grease points that I do see how much do I grease it? how many strokes?
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Now that I have the audio upgraded in my LS, we have uncovered a slight issue with the drivers rear door. The installers will work with me, but I thought there is so much knowledge up here, why not ask.
Everything else on the vehicle works perfect, its just this one door as if all the power is off or disconnected.(ACC or ON power it functions fine) I have checked the fuses under the driver side and the ones in the trunk, they are all fine and we took the front driver door apart to make sure any connections were good. everything seems secure, we even looked over the ECU in the door to make sure it didn't seem fried or anything, all functions on front and passenger doors are perfect.
Here are the symptoms: passenger rear door light wont come on with the door open unless the ACC is on. the other 3 turn on, with or without ACC.
The door lock actuator from the outside on this door wont lock the doors or with the sensing when you approach with the fob and grab the handle (as in the lights there wont light up).
The door closer that finishes off the door being slightly open wont grab and pull it in.
The trunk lights wont come on and there is no fuse or connection issue we can see. Its puzzling.
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I was doing some work on my R today and noticed something. On the passenger side front half shaft, at the transmission side, there is a bolt that has worked itself lose that is rubbing against it. I cannot get a bit into the bolt to tighten it back up as is since it is pressed against the shaft.
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My passenger side front and rear windows dont work. Both driver side windows work, just not the right side/passenger side.
Also when I press the master door lock/unlock switch on the driver seat, every door except the rear passenger door works. It stays unchanged so I guess it is not receiving a signal or something is not letting the signal reach the lock.
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So I took my GTI in for TSBs, new wipers, the door seal creak and new wheels (old ones were not painted behind the spokes) - when it was returned to me, I noticed (after I got home) the red door stripe on the passenger side would not light up. At one point they had taken that door panel off to see if it was creaking instead of the seals (which of course, it was not) and I assume that they forgot to connect something, or unplugged something accidentally. Any other suggestion, like a magical fuse I can replace? I so don't want to travel 60 miles back to this guy. And not only did they not fix the seals, the noise is worse than before, I think from them messing with the doors. But anyway, I'm looking for possible DIY fixes.
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2005 BMW X5 3.0i I've already checked the child lock. Door opens fine from the inside but I can't open from the outside. Door handle doesn't feel loose or anything. I am going to open the door panel?
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'05 V8 w/7k miles
- the dashboard curve above instrument panel creaks constantly (even when the car is torqued in a slow turn)
- right rear passenger door creaks where panel meets doorframe and where wood trim meets door panel
- storage box above center vents creaks
- passenger door creaks where leather patch meets door panel
- smalls wood strip above light switch is damn near falling off (not just wood part, the entire aluminum/wood panel)
- some kinda thump (sounds more substantial than trim) from the rear over larger bumps.
- top compartment closure of armrest leaves a 1/4" play that creaks when even the slightest pressure is applied.
and I am sure several more I just cant locate
Bottom line, I waiting for an '05 because I thought they would have the bugs out, but this things is miserable. Even the smallest of ripples in smooth pavement sends my ears pointing toward some awful creak or rattle. And even if I bring these things up to the dealer, 1) will they be willing to fix and 2) is it really in their realm of ability? I just want my car to be quiet like it was designed, right now sounds worse than the 120k miles 97 chevy suburban my friend has.
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