So I cant figure out where this is coming from. It only happens when the car is in low RPM. Like starting from a stop or going slow in very low RPM I hear plastic rattling constantly. I went in the back and the only thing that is making similar noise is when I tap on the plastic cover of the rear hatch under the window.
View 3 RepliesWhen my car is cold I can hear some noises coming from the rear hatch or rear bumper....
View 2 RepliesI purchased my .:R last summer with just over 100k miles on it. Two prior owners, car was fully stock and in great condition except for one thing:
Humming/vibration ("brrrrr" sound) coming from the back of the car when turning at a slow speed with the wheel fully cranked, e.g. moving out of a parking spot. It only occurs when moving, and with the wheel fully or almost fully turned in one direction.
The guy I purchased it from brought it to a local VW dealership when he noticed this and they (obviously) did not find anything wrong with the car, and blamed it on the tire wear.
So I changed all four tires. Still made the noise.
Haldex oil had been changed by the original owner but not by the second owner (who owned the car for two years prior to my purchase). So I had the Haldex oil changed and my mechanic said it was dirty AND at a low level, and might be the source of this problem. The noise did diminish for a bit, but it is still present.
So, I'm afraid my transmission or differential are fried from running on too little oil. It does not affect anything but it is definitely worrying me.
So I got my Haldex fluid and DSG fluid changed two weeks ago. When I picked the car up I noticed a vibration when I was making tight turns. Last week I called the dealer and told them. They said to drive it a bit more to see if it works it self out. But now after getting back from H2Oi, it still is doing it but not as bad.
Its a vibration you can feel and a rumble you can hear when making a tight turn at slow speed. Like turning into a parking space or turning at a stop sign. What would this be? I searched but couldn't find an exact answer.
I'm getting a rattle in the hatch area -- making a sound as if the hatch is moving independent of the body.
Sound like the hatch is loose -- but it's not. If I grab hold of the wing and try and move the hatch ---- it's tight and I get no sound.
I had a friend drive my car while I was in the rear hatch area trying to find a bad rattle. I discovered that it is inside a large plastic panel just where the rear window wiper motor would be. I'm sure if I could safely remove this large panel, I could find out what the rattle is and quiet it.
How to remove this panel? Are there some hidden bolts or screws? I don't want to force-pry it off if that is not the proper way to remove it. I'd sure rather do this myself than go thru the dealer rigmarole.
I just drove my new 2011 IV with sunroof/sloar option and leather home yesterday and I noticed a sporadic low pitch rattle coming from the rear inside area. I will remove everything from the back today and see if it goes away.
View 8 RepliesI'm seriously getting fed up with this car. From the day we took delivery of it in July 2006 it had the dreaded b-pillar rattle that took OVER a year for the dealer to diagnose and fix. The final repair took over a week and we were graced with a horribly crappy rental car. The passenger rear door felt like it belonged on a 35-year old ford F-150 and it required a day at the dealer and lube and adjustments.
Then We've had random CELs and rattles and recently had to go in for a new A/C Compressor. That took 2 days of us without the car. That was AFTER it was in a week previous for a CEL that required a part inside the intake runner. That took ANOTHER 2 days to diagnose/repair. Now the rear hatch doesn't close? I've never needed this many repairs on a car that doesn't even have 35K miles on it.
Just tonight my wife said the parking brake didn't engage and a warning light for THAT just came on. Previously I had planned to trade in the GTI for a better family car, but its turning out that maybe the car we need to replace is in fact this one... Its saving grace are a fantastic engine and utility that is second to none. If only it worked!
The rear spoiler on my 2005 has always had a bit of "flex" to it and I've always been careful not to use it to open or close the hatch. Unfortunately, I can't be sure that others not do that as it really is the place someone would think to grab to close the hatch.
Anyway, the other day I noticed that the spoiler had picked up a nasty rattle whenever the hatch was closed. Looking from the outside in I saw that there appeared to be two plastic fasteners (one on each end) that held the spoiler in place. If I pressed down on one side the other side popped up and vice versa. I was able to get the spoiler back to where it originally was (loose but no real rattle).
The car has never been in an accident and the spoiler doesn't appear to be bent in anyway...it just seems as if the fasteners aren't holding it down as tightly as they should. Is this the norm? Should I replace the fasteners and any instructions on how to do it?
I have a clunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they replaced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there --
View 1 RepliesFor the past 4/5 weeks my truck vibrates when i brake at slow speed ex. Driving out of a parking spot, slightly braking no matter if i go forward, reverse, turn or go straight it'll vibrate, sometimes very lightly, but usually it's very noticeable, can be compared to the clutch pack issue with these trucks. I had the clutchpacks in the rear diff. replaced at 160k ,after that it drove very smooth but that only lasted 20/30k.
So when turning it'll vibrate at about 15/20 km/h, but that's because of them crappy clutch packs
truck:
2009 f150
xlt ext. cab
4x4
xtr package
6,5 ft box
5.4 L
212000 km
T-reg is at the dealer and told it won't be back for at least a week. I noticed water in the rear cargo area under air compressor after rain. Also, rear wiper makes a terrible noise when turned on. Was told that replacement parts are not local and would take at least a week.
Noticed vibration from the steering column area when coming to a stop at a traffic light? Be sure to check your cargo areas!!!
I have a clunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they replaced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there --
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Toyota Echo which developed severe vibration feedback to the steering wheel when the car was driven at low speed or stopped at a traffic sign or signal.
I took the car to the Toyota dealer and they checked the brakes, replaced the front rotors. They also checked the fuel pump and other engine components. The spark plugs and PCV vale were replaced, as well as the crank seal.
When I left the garage, the vibration reappeared after driving about five minutes. I immediately went back to the garage and waited while the mechanic checked the car. He came to the waiting room and said I would not believe what they found. I went to the garage with him and the hood on the car was raised. He started the car and there was no unusual vibration.
He closed the hood and the vibration started again. The problem was that the underhood reinforcement panel had come unwelded (or unglued) and it was vibrating. A mechanic came from the body shop and put a sealer/filler at the loose spots, we let the car sit for a while, the mechanic said the sealer/filler would expand to close the gap, and I drove the car home. The vibration had stopped.
Problem is noise that you can describe as clunk, not any harsh or sharp sound. It appears on road bumps or unevenness during slow speed up to about 40kph/25mph. The noise has not been heard over that speed even in bad bumpy roads.
List of thing I've done so far:
- Driven with empty rear compartments
- Driven with open rear door
- Checked the tightness of spare tyre
- Replaced rear stabilizer bar linkages
- Replaced rear stabilizer bar bushings
- Replaced rear axle carrier knuckle bushings
Could it be possible not coming from rear? Should I sit in the cargo space while somebody else driving, any success with this? What to do next?
Every time I go over a speed bump faster then 2-3MPH There is this terrible thump / rattle that sounds like a rusted out 1993 Buick Riviera with blown out shocks.
View 3 Replies2001 Santa Fe 2.7L 4wd ... In December I bought this vehicle it only has 95K on it. When I drove the car home I noticed it needed brakes so I put brand new pads and rotors on the whole way around. I changed the oil, air filter, wiper blades, and made sure all fluids were good. I had the front spring recall done and also put some new sway bar end links on the front. The car runs fine and I am rather impressed with it. It does have some rust but I'm not to worried about that. This isn't my everyday car just a winter/extra car. Recently I have been getting some clunking only when going from reverse to drive and going slow. You get a clunk..clunk pause clunk..clunk almost like you have a flat but once I get the car up to speed it is fine and you never hear it again until the car sits a day or so and then it will do it again. I don't know if I have a differential problem or a u joint or maybe something with the e brake or rear brakes? but it is -3 right now outside and I would rather know where to start so that when I can take a look at it I know some things to check or what it might be.
View 3 RepliesHow the rear hatch opens up fully with a click on the remote, but closing it is another matter. Manual says to grab the handle inside and swing down but I can't seem to close it without having to push down on the outer hatch. Is there a trick ???
View 15 Replies2010 f150 4x4... Whether I'm in 4wd or 2wd when I turn at low speed something in the rear has slow clunking but clears out after a few feet of going straight. This occurs with or without a trailer behind me. Just bought this truck a week ago m noticed it about the third time I drive it.
View 4 RepliesIve had this 2009 F250 4x4 Super Crew, 6.4 for 2 years now. Bought it the way it sits with a 6" ProComp lift and 37" Yokohama Open Countrys. Recently, once I get up to 40-45 mph, the rear end starts vibrating violently until I speed up or slow down. There isn't any clanking noise and it's silent. I look in the mirrors to see if it's the tires but they appear to be rotating smoothly. It's never done this before. It's like a tire is out of balance but it shakes much harder than that should be at that speed. It rides smooth as can be at any other speed all the way up to 80 mph which is the faster than i drive. What this could be? I've done searches but can only find info on the front end death wobble which is not the case here.
View 4 RepliesFor 6 months of ownership, the rear hatch apparently has never been locked. I can lock all other 4 doors, expect the latch apparently won't lock by itself. and I can't physically lock it with the key as it looks like the lock is seized. What are my options? Do I have to get a used rear hatch or is there someway of locking it from the inside?
Looking at some videos online, it looks to be that the actuator motor in the trunk could be the possible culprit?