Golf/GTI VII :: Quick Upshifts / Slow Downshifts With Hesitation
Nov 16, 2015
Seems like the engine and transmission are talking through Google Translate. The usual problems: too quick upshifts, too slow downshifts, lugging and vibration at RPM too low for road speed around town, hesitation. Aware this all supposedly support mileage but it's putting a rough edge on an otherwise quiet and likeable car. In fact, mileage seems to be suffering a bit. Aware there's a TSB on the 6AT that supposedly cures this via a software update .
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I bought a 2003 Jetta with a 5 speed automatic transmission (09A tiptronic) but it upshifts and downshifts really bad, it doesn't matter if it's cold or warm. After reading a lot of posts in here I thought that what was wrong with the car was the valve body on it, so I bough a re-manufactured valve body and replaced the old one. When it was in the shop I was told the wiring harness was burnt/fried so they replaced the harness too. I got the car back and it still does the exact same thing, so I don't know if the transmission is bad or maybe it can be a bad TCM. What could be wrong with it?
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2012 2.5 SE Auto 53,000 miles ... A few days ago I started getting very hard downshifts and long upshifts. The downshifts were hard enough that the person at the dealer didn't make it out of the parking lot on the test drive. Most noticeable from 3-2 and 2-1. 1-2 is hard and 2-3, 3-4 and 4-5 take a few seconds to happen. No lights or limp mode.
In recent months I was getting a thump about a second or two after coming to a stop. Enough of a thump that the car would move forward if I didn't have my foot firmly on the brake. They flashed something(the ECU?) claiming there was a TSB for my complaint but it didn't seem to make a difference. I bought the car with 40,000 and the trans never felt right to me. I had them change the fluid just before 50,000 so they couldn't deny a claimed based on failure to maintain.
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I have 129,000 miles on my Santa Fe. Approx. 1000 miles ago it started to act abnormal. The upshifts began to feel different and it was obvious by the Tachometer and the sound of the engine that they were taking longer. Along with that, whenever you are in 4th and you want to accelerate, it feels as if you are "dragging an anchor" , The vehicle has been well maintained, trans. fluid level OK, timing belt as well as plugs, air filter have been replaced. I have no codes locked in either. What may be going on.
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I've got a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 2.4L engine. Funny thing happened on the highway. Driving along with the cruise on, the engine 'hiccups'. Almost like a quick hesitation or someone lightly tapping the brakes.
Got it home and ran the usual tests. Computer showed no trouble codes. Checked the oil. Checked the air filter. All normal.
Turned the car on and tested it in park. Gave it some gas, and took the engine up to 3k RPMs...after a few seconds, it did the hiccup thing again. I watched the RPMs dropped from 3k to 2.5k, and then rebounded to 3k. We could also hear a slight and single 'knock' each time the RPM's would drop. I noticed the A/C was on, so I turned it off, and the problem went away. Turned the A/C back on, and the problem came back. I did that about 5 times to confirm it, and every time the problem occurred, the A/C had to be on.
Now, of course the car has 61.5k miles, and we're the second owners, so bye bye warranty. The car was in for repairs at the dealership when the head control unit for the A/C had issues. Of course now we ask them if the problem is related to their repair will they cover the costs, and they say the best they can do is ask Hyundai to cut down the expenses (even though the repair was done within the last 10k miles)?!
My guess is the compressor has kicked the bucket. Of course, I'm not sure if maybe it's the idle motor not operating like it should or if the car even HAS an idle motor to work with the RPMs when the A/C is on.
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I have a 04, f-250, with a 6.0 liter engine. I have had the Cat removed and in the last couple months it has developed a sneeze like hesitation just before it down shifts to Passing gear, If I push my foot into the fuel it jumps right down thru the sneezing into passing gear. I have changed fuel filter and grade A cleaned my EGR valve. the only Codes it throws is P0403 and P0405.
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This has happened 3 times.
1st) pulled quickly over to side of road, shut off truck. It would not start then. Towed it to service station and it started the next morning (with no repair made). I wonder if tow ride dislodged the the blockage in fuel line(?). Always sounds like it's going to turn over, but like not getting fuel.
2nd) Went to leave work, truck wouldn't start. Towed to my mechanic and he replaced fuel pump. Thought it was fixed because it ran fine until just the other day.
3rd) Slowed down to complete stop in heavy traffic and it stalled. Would not restart. Again sounded like it was going to start but didn't seem to be getting fuel. Good samaratins pushed me off road. Had it towed to mechanic. Started the next morning without any repair or service. It's like the tow ride and bumps getting it off the tow truck dislodges what ever is blocking the fuel line.
My mechanic replaced the fuel pump, but I don't think her replaced the fuel filter.
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Its been happening to me for a while now, but it seems to be more frequent. ill b driving around casually, go to pass someone or just accelerate hard then quickly up shift and get back on the throttle. I hear the engine begin to rev up again after the gear change but it takes a second or so until i feel the car continue accelerating. also i can feel the haldex system when it switches between fwd and awd or whatever it does. like you can hear it catch and def feel it lurch around. and clutch pedal vibrate a lot when any pressure is applied to it. is this normal?
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My year-old Camry hybrid stalled out last night. It was the second time this has happened. The first time, about a month ago, I made a quick start from a light, followed by a quick stop, both actions to avoid an accident. (I was about to get rear-ended and scooted into the intersection to give the guy closing in my mirror more room.) After the stop, the car had no power but it started up, no problem. Last night, I was about a minute into my trip, stopped at a light, and the power just died. Again, it started no problem.
This time I noticed that the radio went out. Not sure about the headlights. The emergency blinkers came on at the touch of the button before I restarted. In both cases, I stepped on the accelerator and got no power. Took it to the dealer and they couldn't replicate the problem, of course, and whatever interrogation they did of the systems found no faults. They had to be convinced that I knew the difference between an actual stall and just going from gas to electric. It's kind of disconcerting to just stall out in the middle of the street. And I'm concerned that this is a problem that could get worse -- probably just after the warranty lapses.
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VW says I might need a new clutch. I have 85k on original. When are your clutches going? Do I need to change the dmflywheel as well?
i thought it might be a bad synchro. It only does it when warmed up and on downshifts. I can let the rpms drop all the way down before shifting and it will grind. rev matching i think still grinds. wont do it cold.
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Just purchased an R and with about 500 miles on, having issues with rev matching on downshifts. Before you go there, I've been driving manuals on street and track for 29 years and have never had an issue with any other cars. I find the Golf R throttle pedal really lazy; you have to really zing it to get the revs up. My question for those who have gone to APR Stage 1 is did it work with the throttle curve relative to pedal position?
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I think this concern of mine stems from past trauma related to broken A/C's (in cars and homes) with expensive repairs, but did I shorten the life of my GTI's A/C by stalling the car shortly after start up, and then restarting it again (with the A/C on)? The A/C got cycled on, then off, then on again within a 10-20 second time span.
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How sensitive is the sensor? I was on the highway going at about 75, when the wipers did two quick sweeps. Can insects set off the sensor? What's the best site for discount OEM parts and accessories?
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Going to clean egr and throttle on my golf mk6 tdi. Can I just unscrew the three screws that holds the egr on the manifold, or if I need to dismantle more parts?
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So, I've noticed over the past few days my '11 GTI w/ DSG isn't turning over as quick but when it does I feel as though my gas is delayed. For instance, if I push the accelerator down I feel like It does nothing and then suddenly kicks in when the pedal is more than halfway pressed. Also noticed by the same token if I keep it floored I go way into the redline before it shifts. Almost pushing the 7k rpm line. I'm thinking it's either my starter is going bad for the turn over portion but then I feel like it's something to do with spark plugs for the delayed response.
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When my car is cold... sitting 8 hours below freezing I've noticed until the car warms up I hear almost like a quick scraping sound when I take off from a stop or when shifting. It's almost like when the engine is put under load the movement causes something to shift and makes this noise. Any chance I have a loose mount or a portion of the exhaust could be shifting coming in contact with something?
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So I just got 42dd shifter bushings and im having some issues!
Installation was no problem but once you complete the install you are supposed to re-adjust the linkage. First you have to lock the shifter in place, both in the cabin and in the engine bay (as shown in this Diesel Geek video: [URL] .... )
The only trouble I'm having is that i cannot locate the locking pin as shown in this integrated engineering picture: [URL] .....
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I just picked up my R32 2 days ago and I notice that when it shifts up semi-aggressive (around 4.5 rpm) there is a quick swish sound as the gear engages. It sounds like it is coming from the muffler system, in the rear. What it is?
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Just installed FK Streetlines..... So everything is very tight in the back, before putting weight on the suspension I went over all the bolts and everything is tight. But I occasionally get a single or quick double pop sound from the right rear area, I can almost feel it in my seat/floor. But it's not frequent and not on smooth or rough roads really I can't find a pattern. Usually turning left and a little side to side undulation... Maybe. I've checked over everything. Car has 500mi. Suspension has 50mi maybe..
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From no issues to this: Can drive in first gear. As soon as tranny upshifts to 2nd, loud screeching. Put it in reverse, and basically no movement and a lot of screeching. Can coast in neutral, drive in third. Is my transmission shot, and if so, what is the cheapest way to get it back ion operation? I.E. Used, rebuilds, etc.
BTW, truck only has 115K miles. Changed transmission fluid and filter at 90K. 2001 Suburban 1500 LT 4WD LSD 5.3L
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We have had our tig for a few months now and love it! however, it upshifts going down hills and revs to the moon. is that normal for the tig? Do other peoples tigs do this? In my 20 years (and my dads 40) of being in auto cars I've never had a car do this nor has he. computer problem?
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