Golf/GTI VII :: MFD Gear Display Keep Switching From S To D Every Few Seconds At Light Throttle
Nov 21, 2015
I had something weird happen to my DSG today. I was accelerating from a stop light in manual mode until third gear at half throttle then shifted to 'Drive' at about 45 MPH. The transmission kept shifting back and forth from drive to manual. The MFD gear display kept switching from S to D every few seconds at light throttle. The mode selector was set to normal on the radio display. I turned into a parking lot, shut the car off, and then restarted. Once restarted, the DSG returned to operating normally. The CEL was not on and did not see any error messages on the displays.
Should I take it to the dealer for inspection? I am a first time DSG owner after 25 years of manuals and overall I like the DSG but it does have some quirks.
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Posting this because I saw many other owners with the same problem. Basically after warming up DSG every time clunk into 6th gear on light throttle and D mode, speed around 50kmh rpm around 1400.
You can hear it and feel it on pedal a little. Sometimes is not so harsh sometimes its big clunk. Of course it did on manual mode too if you try shift in the same position.
Original thread here: [URL] ....
Its well known that DSG D mode is set to shift early for better fuel economy but this is not good and really annoying.
I have same problem and its not mechatronic related mine was replaced do to jerkiness on 2 gear and clunking into 6th it is the same.
So I know that fix could be DSG tune/reprogram that many company offer. D mode is optimized and shifting moved to "normal" rpms. A lot of you don't have even problem because your its already flashed with combo etc.
But in my area no body offer DSG tune and i really don't know how to solve this problem... don't want to replace whole gearbox because in all other ways works ok.
I have 2012 MU with i think lastest SW and it didnt change anything on this.
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Reverse light stays on reverse even when switching it to a different gear. Car doesn't move forward.
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I have a 2013 Santa Fe, 2.2 Diesel AWD and have recently experienced this popping sound. The sound is normally noticed within seconds of switch off the engine and is loud enough to make people jump with surprise. When I originally complained I was told this was normal ... nonsense I said as having owned vehicles from various manufacturers(Nissan, SAAB, Renault, VW, Chrysler, Mazda, Lexus) over the last 25year I've never experienced anything like this. Car is back in for a 90K klm service and repeated my complaint - lets see what happens. To me this is coming from the catalytic converter and when I look at the box underneath the car it has numerous bump/dents on it yet has never been offroad.
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What does this mean? For the past few months my transmission has been really clunky and just un-smooth and now this. Is it broken?
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I finally decided to take my car in to the dealership for this random split second hesitation that mostly happens in first gear. I have 8600 miles on the car and it has done it since the day I bought it. I thought it might have been compressor related from running the AC. I have tried driving with no AC and ESP off and it still does it.
So I take it in and they decided to let the new guy work on my car. I take him on a ride (AC and ESP off) and sure enough it does it nice and strong for him to feel it. I was happy so we went back to the dealership and they gave me a 2.slow rental and I was on my way. 24 hours later they call and tell me, "Ron we believe it might be your throttle body so we're waiting on the regional master tech to get his opinion before we put a $750 part on your car".
I'm like "ok, whatever you say, just call me tomorrow with an update because I don't want it back till it's fixed". They call me the next day to inform me that my brake light switch was faulty ($10.25), they replaced my wiper blades, adjusted my wiper arms and the car was ready to be picked up.
Now that I have it back I can say driving it now that it's acting normal is an adjustment. My mind expect that hiccup but it doesn't happen, at least not most of the time. I'm not completely convinced that this hesitation is gone because I think I felt it happen once yesterday. Time will tell... In the mean time it is 95% cured.
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Getting a misfire at part throttle. Whether the car is in gear or sitting. At idle there is no misfire, and at WOT there is no misfire. But if you hold the throttle part way (like when trying to cruise) you immediately see the misfire count go through the roof on vag-com. this can be duplicated in the garage by holding the idle to 1500-2k with no load on the motor.
4 codes, which come back immediately at part throttle as described above.
multiple cylinder misfires
cylinder 1 misfire
cylinder 2 ""
cylinder 3 ""
tried moving plugs and coils with no change, problem stayed on first 3 cylinders
checked t-body readings and appears to be aligned ok
checked maf readings and appear to be ok
found one questionable vacuum line and replaced it, no change.
checked vag-com fuel trims and they showed -4.7% which appears to be with in the acceptable 5% range
watching lamda on both front O2 sensors and they seem to be following the same trend.
When I look at measuring blocks 26/27 it shows me knock sensor signal on all six cylinders, and 1-3 are much lower than 4-6. This is the only discrepancy I have located, and not sure if it is the cause or an effect of the problem. I checked the knock sensor (located below exhaust manifold on passenger side) and the sensor and wiring appear good. I checked resistance best I could and it appears in spec (infinite resistance) but the pins are so small and the spec is so vague I am not 100% on the results.
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This I find is very annoying compared to my other two VW's which have better throttle response and shift a little later into 6'th allowing the engine to turn at 1400 RPM allowing for better acceleration without having to kick it down a gear.
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We have a 2006 Subaru Forester with approximately 118000 miles. My wife is the sole driver of this vehicle, we purchased it used a little over two years ago. When the engine is cold (only when it is cold) a loud "kick" sound comes from what sounds like the rear of the car when and only when switching from second to third gear. The dealership flushed and calibrated the transmission but the problem persists (albeit less).
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I have cut of the battery, and when I reconnected it and turned the ignition on the climatronic display was blinking for approx 10 seconds, and after that worked normally. What could happen to it?
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Where to find this wiring diagram? I was getting hesitation in my throttle and the EPC light kept going on.. So I did some looking and found that 2 wires pulled out of the plug in the cowl harness... There are like 5 plugs under there, and these 2 wires were pulled clean.. So I cant tell which one goes to which... I know its definitely part of the 4 wires going to my pedal...
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So driving home from work today and got on the throttle a little hard going uphill in the highway when the EPC light came on. I was only at at 4.5-5k rpm and the engine didn't totally cut out it just shuttered if I hit the gas. I pulled off turned the car off and when I started it again the light was off and car drove fine.
2015 Golf Sport SE 1.8T, APR Stage 2, APR downpipe, APR Carbon Fiber Intake, Remus Cat Back Exhaust Chrome Tips, LED license plate/rear/turn/brake lights
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I am leaving from a meeting with my business partner and taking a left turn at about 10mph and very light throttle due to a rough road. All of the sudden I've got nothing. No throttle response and my car starts chugging bad. Then I see the EPC light on. I shut the car off as it sounds like I have only 2 cyls firing. start her back up and boom, normal again. No power loss, no lights, nothing. I immediately thought water pump. not the case though obviously. From what I can tell the EPC will come on for multi misfires. but for it to come on that suddenly for no apparent reason and then just be fine when I shut off and restart, I would assume this may be an ecu or coil issue.
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Mk4 jetta 1.8t ECP light is on, when I lightly push gas, car stalls and cuts off. Where to begin? Here's the vagcom readings:
906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 LP
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0007
Coding: 07500
Shop #: WSC 78901
VCID: 77FDFDB25513C5A6AAD-5140
3VWSE69M12M090016 VWZ7Z0A4180723
18 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
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I tried to look for earlier posts re a new squeak that my R32 has just developed, now at 16k kms, 10k miles. Noticed it when I was cruising slowly towards the house, a light squeaking as I went on and off the gas; then found that it did it while sitting on the driveway, so I'm thinking maybe a motor mount or exhaust related. Our roads up here in Ontario have been a bit messy, but don't think I have hit anything hard.
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