Golf/GTI VII :: Low Boost - Revo Stage 2 / Check Engine Light Comes On And Performance Drops
Jun 26, 2015
I'm running a catless dp with the "low boost" Revo stage 2 (For 95-98 octane fuel)..
I've noticed when I put in rubbish fuel, the car runs fine and can hear the turbo spooling and pssting..
When I put in Shell VPower Nitro+ (Standard UK good stuff), the check engine light comes on and performance drops. I tried REVO but they stonewalled me. Thinking of trying the higher boost map..
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So last night, I put my APR stage 1 intake on my 2011 GTI. Install went smoothly, didnt even touch the MAF sensor. Drove fine that night with no cels and drove home approximately 15 miles.
Today, after driving an additional 15 miles I turned off my engine. Upone restarting, the engine starts but idles at 0 then shuts off. Tried restarting a couple times to no avail. Then took out my key, gave it a few seconds, tried again and the engine starts but with a check engine light,
Shut it down, gave it a few more seconds and restarted the engine and the check engine light was gone.
WTF is going on??? I am super worried as I only have 850 miles on it and am scared I got a lemon or something. Is this normal?
EDIT: Could i have ruined my engine in any way?
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Driving on highway, check engine light goes on, speedometer drops from 60 to 0 but nothing else happens. Come to a stoplight and engine light stays on and speedometer works again. Any diagnostics?
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My mk4 golf 1.8t aum has intermittent boost it boosts strong then just drops off ....
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Driving on the highway today and when I started to accelerate fast I noticed my check engine light blinking yellow and also noticed loosing boost I think I can only reach maybe 10-12 psi, I am stage 1 revo and also it was 95 degrees out, what it could be, thinking misfiring? so would that mean new coil pack and spark plugs?
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Check engine light is on says low turbo boost but gauge says it has a lot of boost. Only happened after I put catalytic back on for smog test. Before that no problem.
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The car is an 02 gti. I am having problems at full boost(17 psi) where the car starts to stutter, backfire, and eventually drops to 5 psi. Throttle up to 15 psi is always smooth and there is no hesitation or misfires. It's chipped but I am unaware of which software as it was already on the car when purchased.
What I've done:
Checked for any leaks - none
Cleaned maf
Replaced plugs(0.028) and coils which was needed anyways
Coil harnesses look good
Fuel filter changed
I've read about the n75 but I am not experiencing any surge issues that many have described. I do believe the car is running a little rich because I can smell some fumes but it is very light. Car fires up just fine and idles smoothly.
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Noticed the other day when I went to leave a job site my Check Engine Light came on but the truck started fine and seemed to run normal. while cruising down the highway I noticed that my factory boost gauge was showing 35psi and fluctuating between that and around 10. looking at my H&S it was showing normal boost readings for the current driving condition, when I came to a stop the H&S would show 0psi but the factory one would fluctuate between 0 and 35-40psi..
I can tell the turbo is not spooling at all during this time. if I take off from a stop with the gauge showing 35 the engine sounds louder than normal at first take off compared to when the gauge is reading normal. I haven't gotten a change to get it in my shop yet to look it over but does the dash gauge read from a different sensor that what my H&S is reading? Truck is an '11 F250, deleted both EGR and DPF with H&S tuner. I checked codes and all I have is P06A7. Where to start?
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Is there a difference in the engine sound between a stage 1 and stage 2? I like my stage 1 with APR intake as it is so I'm concerned I'll be changing it if I go to stage 2 with the intake.
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I was reading through the forum and I have not seen anything on an upgrade for the 4.2's performance...I want to bring the cars' hp closer to 400 without hurting the fuel economy too bad or maybe even improving it...The 4.2 is a heavily used engine by VW and Audi so I know there HAS to be an engine upgrade somewhere on the net I just do not know where to start or what to do...also is there an aftermarket exhaust upgrade available as well?
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While installing a K&N air filter in my 2014 Prius Three 1.8L I noticed a charcoal pad in the air cleaner box. Might this be something of an impediment to air flow? I'm considering removing it to see if there is any performance boost.
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So i got a cooling system performance light and haven't had time to change the sensor out along with the housing... But
Last night i was stopped to see if it was still there after a little driving and it was indeed. So i figured i would try and clear the code to see if that work and it did. I cleared the code and almost instantly with the car still idling, the ticking sound went away.
What could have cause the ticking sounds at all in relation to the cooling system?
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I have a 2003 Volvo XC70 with 87K miles on it. I have kept it serviced. For the last few years I have had an intermittent problem with the engine light coming on saying I am having engine performance problems, that I can (sometimes) alleviate by tightening the gas cap. I make a point of tightening the cap til it clicks when I fill up, so I don't know why this happens. Also, sometimes it happens and I can feel the engine slowing down.
It tends to happen more on very hot days when it has been sitting outside of my office building in the sun all day (there is no shade to park). I have a 10 minute ride home and by the time I am 5 minutes into the drive the light comes on. When I get home I pop the fuel lid and tighten the gas cap (even though it feels plenty tight) and by the next morning the light is often off . My dealer has no idea what is going on, but there is something wrong.
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'01 A6 2.7T 95k....Not boosting as high as normal...the check engine light came on the other day, P1136 code said engine was running lean. I found a small vacuum hose leak near wastegate and fixed it today (CEL is still on though). Stock boost is normally around 8-9 psi, but I am only getting 6-7 psi. Also, the boost seems to climb more slowly than it has been, and it occasionally goes into limp mode (only 3-4 psi). The turbos were replaced about a year ago with all new blue hoses. There aren't any other symptoms, no weird noises.
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I have a 98 passat b5 turbo. All done to it is k&n filter and exhaust.... I put a boost gauge on it and i only get 3-4 psi... is this normal? it sounds very low. Also a weird thing is that the boost drops off at high rpm.
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My CEL is on for P0116 Engine Coolant temp circuit, range or performance problem. I replaced the CTS, thermostat, and did a complete coolant flush/replacement last November. Car worked well over the winter no issues. Last week when the CEL came on it gave me P0301 and P0440 as well. I did a reset and the lights stayed off for the week. Then P0116 came back. Is it possible that the CTS is bad again? I measured the resistance on the CTS and hot it is about 300 ohms and cold is 2.45k ohms.
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Don't know if I'm experiencing the dreaded limp mode or not. It seems that SOMETIMES while just digging thru the gears 1-2-3, not hard, when I get to 3000 rpms it's like I'm taking my foot off the gas. Rpm drops from 3000 to 2500. It's like I'm losing boost or something. I have no mods and obviously, no boost gauge.
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On my monitor, when I really get on it, I see the boost come up nicely and then when it gets to about 22 -23 lbs, it drops to zero on my monitor display, but the engine does not seem to falter in anyway. Why or what I might do about it?
I find it very annoying and do not believe it should be doing so, thus figure it might be causing some other problems or so. ..? I hear others talking about seeing 24 and up boost being displayed... why not me?
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So i was driving to school today and my check engine light went on.. I still don't know whats wrong i' m going to go check after school. But for few days i heard this rattling sound coming from my engine..
Could that set off my engine light?
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Car has had a hard time starting battery is charged but still needed extra power to get the car started this morning as I am driving car shut off at every stop now it has a rough idle with both the check and esp light on any have this problem before.
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So recently bought vagcom to do a bunch of changes. Have a cel and the code is intake manifold flap position sensor. I have looked around and lots of ppl saying they took car in and vw fixed no issues blah blah blah. Well I have an issue. Cuz my car is not covered under warranty any more. And so I called local vw dealer and they told me I need to replace my throttle body? I thought I had to change my intake manifold and flapper motor.
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