Just bought a 2015 golf TSI 4-door. First time VW buyer so Im not sure if these are normal or I should bring the car in to get checked.... At a dead stop when I accelerate the car seems to shake a little (until 2nd gear kicks in) then it stops shaking, Also, When Im in traffic and I go from dead stop to accelerate to slow down again, it feels like it is down shifting very hard.
View 6 RepliesI picked up an '08 R32 about two months ago and was having issues with the DSG and the dealership determined it was an issue with the mechatronic unit so they swapped it. That made a huge difference, but the downshifting is still very hard when coming to a slow stop (to the point where the car jumps), especially from 2nd to 1st gear. About half the time when I back out of a parking spot, then put the car in drive and start to give it gas, the car doesn't move for a few seconds as the RPM's build, then it slams into gear.
This all happens in drive (D). I haven't even used the other modes to know if it's happening there too. The dealership says they don't see any issues with it and there are no error codes and that there is nothing wrong with the car, but this is by far the worst transmission I've ever had in any car I've ever owned. I find it hard to believe that VW and Audi would put this in their higher end cars, so I can only assume there is something wrong with mine.
I bought my 2012 Accent a few months ago. I have been noticing that when its cold it has a bit of a rough idle. Nothing bad, no reving, but just a general mild shaking. No check engine light either. It happens in park, reverse, neutral, and drive. It stops and runs smooth after a few mins of driving. Since I bought it I have been using Top Tier gas and a bottle of gumout at oil change. Could it be just the way the engine is, since it is a small 4cyl? Like I said its not bad or affecting the way it drives, just seems strange to me.
View 6 RepliesSo my VR6 shakes quite a bit on startup and when I turn it off. I figured it was the dogbone mount. I did the clutch trick, jacked up the front end and engaged the transmission. Of course the engine shook a lot, in a forward to back motion, signalling the dogbone was bad. Shifts into and out of 1st and 2nd were pretty rough and i could feel it in both the driver and passenger seats during idle.
Well I just installed the ECS dogbone and while I can't really feel it much in the seats anymore, it still shakes quite a bit once the transmission is engaged. Low end shifts really haven't gotten much better either.
So I am thinking its either one of the other mounts, or the polyurethane bushing needs to be worked in. I am leading toward the former.
So I was on my to get some food and when started my car it was shaking really bad and had a ticking sound. I popped the hood and the engine was shaking violently, it drove fine one day to walmart and the next day started doing this. I am thinking it could be the coil pack because it was raining when I went to start it.
View 2 RepliesJust bought a 2000 passat v6. I have owned a 99 passat 1.8t for 5 years and has had little to no problems. When I first was driving my newer v6 I noticed that when im downshifting from 3rd to second especially it has shaking feeling in the front end. Wasn't sure if this was a transmission problem or an axle problem.
View 14 Replies2007 Rabbit shakes quite hard when i accelerate mainly on any type of incline and only between 35-60 mph. When i take it to the shop they cant find a problem.
View 3 RepliesThird owner with about 81k, sometimes when I go to shift into sixth it seems like there is something stopping me about half way into normal position. Normally I have to go back to neutral and then try again. I don't have this issue with the other gears.
second question, I've noticed under deceleration mostly or going slow over bumps that I can hear a tin style rattle. Now the last couple days when I start the car with or without AC running there is a constant rattle making me think that whatever was rattling over bumps is about to make a run for it when I hit a big bump or something.
My car is downshfting kinda hard from 2nd to 1st I guess, it's just before I stop. What's causing this? It's a 2002 V6 4Motion.
View 1 RepliesI have an 07 and in S mode the car does a pretty hard when down shifting around 3rd/2nd gear. if there is a fix for it? I'm going to talk to the dealer about to see what they say.
View 10 RepliesMy 2009 downshifts hard between 2nd and 1rst gear. Real distinct when stopping at a stop sign. I have 81,000 on it. I looked at older forum's and they said flashing the computer would assist. Just curious if it works for a vehicle with that many miles on it, or if it may be a more serious problem.
View 5 RepliesI have a 90 Cutlass Cruiser SL and it is shifting real hard going down to first. Other gears are fine. Checked motor mounts, ok. Also stutters at higher speeds in OD but when I kick it down to drive it quits. She has a lot of miles but I can't afford a new car.
View 15 RepliesI purchased a 2012 Elantra Limited w/Tech last Wednesday and it has about 250 miles on it now. Downshifting is kind of hard. I've been driving with Eco mode on but have noticed the same thing w/o it on.
I'll get up to 45 mph and then let the car coast, every time the car downshifts a gear I feel it in the car. It causes me to jolt forward a little bit and is not very smooth. It shifts the same way while accelerating but then I don't really notice it b/c I'm speeding up.
It is annoying while just coasting b/c it feels like the car is braking a little every time it drops down a gear. Also, if it pushes me forward a little bit then the car probably is braking a little which seems kind of against the point of coasting...
I tow a car hauler that is about 8000 lbs. On my last trip occasionally when the truck would downshift into 5th under a load, it would bang in there pretty hard. Not a smooth transition, not every time just some times. Just wondering it that was normal or the start of a potential issue.
View 6 RepliesSo pre waterfest my car was accelerating as expected. It'll pull fine until about 3250-3500rpm then it'll get a little kick until about 6k. Now, I can feel the boost at around 3500rpm but it's very mild. It only holds boost until around 4500rpm.
I don't have a boost gauge installed but I have an app that will connect to a Bluetooth OBD dongle I have. I've used it in the past and it tells me how much boost I'm making. It shows that I am peaking around 24-27 lbs of boost. But it just drops shortly after without me letting off the throttle at all.
This morning I had an unusual problem after starting up the car. When the gas engine kicked in, the car started shaking a great deal as if the engine mounts had come loose and the engine was moving around. I quickly turned it off and waited a few minutes. When I tried it again, everything was normal.
Thinking back, I'm not sure if I put it in gear before the problem occurred. Wonder if putting it in gear just as the engine is starting up could trigger something like this.
So I just purchased my new-to-me, CPO 2010 RX 350 two weeks ago. It had 81,750 miles when I purchased it, and it now has about 83,000 miles. I just came back from a weekend vacation, having driving about 500 miles total. This morning when I turned on the car, I noticed a message saying "Check AWD System," the check engine light was on, the general warning light was on, and the traction control light was on. As I was driving, I realized that the car wasn't downshifting properly. I didn't drive faster than 40 mph on my morning commute. When the car did downshift, it was a hard, jerky shift.
I did some reading on the forum, and many people suggested all the warning lights could be fixed by taking off and retightening the gas cap (due to the vehicle not reading the emissions properly or something?). I also read that topping off and overfilling the gas tank can be cause for the warning lights to go on. I did fill up once on my way home from my vacation, and haven't filled up since.
Anyways, I just now tried to adjust the gas cap and then restart the car, but the warning lights are still on. What I should do or if I should drive it a bit to let the emissions build up again? My problem is is that I live about 6 hours from a Lexus dealership, so I'm trying to figure out if I can resolve this on my own or what I should tell a mechanic specifically if I need to take it in.
I have an '86 Aerostar with the 2.3 four and 5-speed stick. The shifter is sloppy, and it's often hard to find 4th when downshifting from 5th, and sometimes, it shifts hard through all the gears. Other times, it works fine. The manual says that this shifter was used from 86 to 89 only. Did they use the same one on Rangers? Can I buy a rebuild kit? Or, is this a sign of some other problem such as the clutch slave cylinder?
View 1 RepliesSo I changed my fuel filter a while back and I've been noticing a very mild knocking sound whenever I go over a bump. I didn't have access to a lift when I was doing this, so I attempted it with the car on the ground (worst idea ever - there wasn't enough ground clearance for me to even fit my head under there...). Everything is hooked back up as I thought it was originally (car runs fine), but now that I think about it I'm wondering if there's a bracket above the filter that should be secured within the hose clamp, along with the filter & the plastic piece that attaches to the filter. And if so, any tricks as to how I can secure the hose clamp to the bracket without having to remove the filter all over again? I had no way of telling whether or not there was a bracket... I could hardly see as it was and was more concerned about not damaging the fuel line clips.
View 4 Replies2012 gti, completely stock, 21,000 miles. Perfectly smooth ride right up to 69mph, then mild/moderate vibration in the steering wheel at 70+mph... figured it was an out of balance wheel up front, had the tires rotated, but still vibrates. I suppose ALL the wheels could be out of balance, but seems unlikely?? Will have the balance checked on all wheels...
View 18 RepliesWhen I drove the car on Monday a hesitation/jerking randomly came out of no where during mild acceleration at around 2500 RPM. The next day it was doing the same thing, but one of the times it made the check engine light flash a couple times then go off. On Wednesday I put fuel injector cleaner and a new tank of gas in it to see if that worked at all, but it didn't. The problem was still occurring then the engine light came on and stayed on. So I went to see what the problem was on VCDS and here are the errors that came up. Also I should mention that on Tuesday my battery died and I had to get a jump from someone, this didn't affect the problems, but I think it has something to do with the voltage errors.
A Summary of the errors is lots of things about "low voltage b+" and "engine misfires".
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....