Golf/GTI VII :: Loud Chirp Noise When Begin To Apply Throttle At 750 - 1000 RPMs
Jan 2, 2015
I have been experiencing a strange sort of loud induction/air turbulence/chirp noise right when I begin to apply the throttle at 750-1000 RPMs. It's the type of induction noise you would expect to hear from a car with an open filter intake if you shifted into 6th gear at very low speed(bogging, chirpy noise) Only been happening for a week.
I have an APR intake, and my initial thought was that maybe the tone of the intake had changed a little since it has gotten colder....but you actually cannot even hear the noise under the hood, let alone near the intake. It is only noticeable from inside the cabin. It happens regardless of clutch engagement and a/c. Car drives fine other than that.
It started happening with the soundaktor unplugged. I actually plugged it back in since then in hopes that it might mask the noise.
Video (GTI 6MT)
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As I begin to accelerate a humming sound from the front of the car begins. The noise becomes more pronounced the faster I go. No additional noise is made when I brake or turn, nor does it appear to be any noise when I went in reverse. I made a 180 mile trip on Sunday with no problems, although I did travel at closer to 55mph than 65. The car has 170,000 miles on it and has had most of its scheduled maintenance performed.
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I do what's written in the book (hold brake, turn ESP off, S-mode) but when i press the throttle I cannot go over 1000-1100 RPM - after a slight vibration the clutch seem to disengage and the engine goes idle. What am I doing wrong or is my version without LC?
The car is 2009 Golf 6 1.4 TSI 160hp DSG.
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Ok, I have a 95 F150 5.0. It's sat for 6 months with the engine taken apart. I just finished putting everything back together with a new alternator. Well, I pulled a bone-head move and forgot to connect the harness when I fired the truck up. Other than not charging though, it ran fine. When I connected the harness, it began to chirp and shudder at low RPMs and squeal and vibrate at higher RPMs and it over heated VERY QUICKLY.
So hot the case was too hot to touch and the pulley smoked the belt. The engine didn't even have time to get up to operating temperature. I've had the alternator replaced twice, and this last one tested good putting out 14.5 volts. The work I did on the engine was to replace the valve springs, install a direct drive timing gear, replace a spun harmonic balancer, bypass the smog pump because it froze up, new distributor, a new ECU and O2 sensor.
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So lately my 2000 Jetta GLS hasn't been running that smooth I can tell when I'm changing gearing and when I start the car and the car idles around 1000 RPMs. I think it may be the engine miss firing because some times I can feel the car shaking but I have no check engine light. Lucky... Also the coolant is leaking idk what the exact problem is but everywhere I go there is a puddle of coolant under my car.
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I have a 2009 Corolla and anytime the car is idling and it drops below 1000 RPMS there is an extremely annoying ticking sound, it goes away when I put it in Neutral or the AC is on because it idles higher.
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I put a link below on the video that I made. But when I come across 1,000 RPMs weather I turn, go straight, left or right it makes this noise like a humming or rubbing noise. I took it to the dealership and they fed me crap saying when it gets worse or when it happens every time brig it back.
[URL] ....
I don't think this link is working I'm trying to figure out this iPhone. Search my YouTube channel Kill3rcr3w that's the channel I just uploaded it
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I have a 2010 Toyota Camry SE with just under 51,000 miles on it. Every time I put the car into reverse and accelerate to apprx. 2-4 MPH then apply the brakes, I hear a loud popping noise, and it sounds like it is coming from the passenger front wheel. Slight noise from the drivers front as well. This doesn't happen in Drive, only in reverse at a low rate of speed. My father and I have taken the front wheels off and tested it, seems to be a motor mount, curious if this seems rational or common in a newer car.
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I have a 2000 b5 wagon with a 2.8 5spd with 200k on it .... Its slammed on coils and i get this squealing in reverse i dont know what it is i just rebuilt the front end ie control arms... also have a nasty vibration from 1000rpms to 3000 rpms could that be engine mounts/snub mount?
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I get this loud click noise coming from the front end of my vehicle when I apply the brakes. It seems to happen much more often than not, especially at low speeds. I can only describe it as some sort of loud clicky clanky sound, it's also a single sound, it doesn't go on and on and it only happens when I apply the brakes.
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2010 F150 ... So I have the tick noise at rpm's 800-1000 at drive through, stops, etc. So I did research on it a few months ago and saw that it might be VCT's but should be able to drive. so I drove it waiting to save money and have it go to a shop. well this past weekend while coming home from work my oil light came on the pressure dropped to zero, I was on the highway so I drove about another mile to get off highway and once I got off my truck died. I had it towed to my house and I thought I blew my motor. So I started doing research here and found that the VCT's AND cam Phaser could be bad. so I replaced my VCT on driver side put it all back together it started and loud knock was gone. then after 5 mins it was back very loud knock!
So I shut it down and took apart the passenger side once I got the valve cover off I found the problem.... The bolt that holds the cam phaser in place snapped off and was riding along the camshaft. So I took that out and extracted remaining part of bolt. inspected my camshaft and it was really messed up. so I bought new Phaser and Camshaft. the camshaft just came in today and I am trying to put it back in. but the hole for the pin in the phaser doesn't line up and I cant spin the shaft to make it line up. should I spin the cam phaser? I marked the chain and the phaser is where it should be on chain, but with that bolt snapping off could that have thrown the timing off so my mark is no good? when I lay the camshaft in place it sits perfect and if I just move the phase over 2-3 links it will all fit together. Should I do that?
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I would like to know if any of you had issue with is spark cut. Last week my motor begin to do some noise around the timing chain cover (upper). I open the motor and my exhaust camshaft adjuster was defect ...I change it thinking it was the problem, but the noise still there. (i also change the tensioner bolt). It was not a big noise like when a slider is split in half or something like that.
I pull the transmission off today and saw some weird wear on the slider and tensioner but nothing broken. (i will post pics as soon as I can)
The car have 56k miles
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My AM radio has terrible reception. There is humming noise that goes away when I apply the brakes. I will bring it to the dealer, but I know what they will say, "cannot duplicate problem" or "radio operation found to be normal".
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It happens quite often, when i start the car, and apply brakes, then there is some sort of knocking sound coming from the rear. It sounds like someone knocking on the door... But the sound will disappear after a while. The car drives fine, could it be the brakes?
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A question for you 3.6 owners. I have a 2006 3.6 Sport that I love, but I have this throttle thunking that drives me nuts. What happens is, when I'm going about 25- 30 miles per hour at around 2000 rpms and let of the gas for a second or two, then just lightly punch the pedal, I get this slappy thunky noise that I hear and feel.
I've had it to two different dealers and both told me they can't find anything wrong and it's normal. They acknowledge that they hear and feel it, but again tell me it's normal.
I've driven a lot of cars and never felt this sensation, so to me, it's abnormal. Since I've never driven another 3.6 I have nothing to compare it to and of course both the dealers didn't have a V6 on the lot for me to drive to verify that it is indeed "normal".
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So I drive a 2008 R32/U.S. spec and I was in neutral when I pressed the throttle and it would not rev over 4000 rpms and was wondering why??
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So,I have a mk4 GTI vr6 . I've got an idle that moves about 25 rmps up and down. As well as the throttle hesitation between 2.000 and 3500 rpms only at mid throttle. Has a kinda new maf. That I cleaned. clean THrottle body kinda new coil pack and wires , new plugs. Tried a lot it all worked but it's still there.
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Yesterday I was driving my R spiritedly (the usual...). I accelerated up close to redline and was just about to shift up when something happened in front of me (I forget what, lane change, something like that) so I let the gas pedal snap back up. I didn't touch the brake pedal at all.
What surprised me was the tach fell off almost like the car was dead. My expectation is that momentum and the car being in gear would cause the RPMs to decay slowly, just as my speed decayed.
Do you think the DSG plays a role here? Did it engage the clutch because of the 'panic' lift of the throttle? It didn't put me in an unsafe condition or anything, it just surprised me as I'd not seen it do that before.
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I have a different issue than the typical heat on max ac. Mine is actually cold, it just sends all the air to the defrost vents when i apply the throttle. Comes back to the dash vents when I let off the gas.
I know that it's vacuum lines or solenoid, I just wanted to see if any guess on which specific line to check or any other info since I do NOT have a gauge to measure the vac lines for pressure.
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My '05 Expedition will be driving normal at highway speeds, and when I need to apply a little more throttle to start up a hill I get a shutter thru the truck that sounds and feels like driving over a rumble strip. It doesn't last but just a second or two, but it happens frequently. Is it something in the 4wd? Transmission? or.......?
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2012 SEL... Experiencing High Idle (1000 rpms) when the AC is ON. When I power the AC system OFF... the idle comes down to 700-800rpms. Then I power the AC back ON and it stays for the rest of my trip. Restart the car, and it's back to 1000 rpms with the AC on.
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