Golf/GTI VII :: Limp Mode At Around 3200 RPMs / Shuts Off At Lights / Hardly Starts Few Hours After Tune
Oct 16, 2014
I've had the car for almost 5k miles, no issues. Only performance part on the car is a USP 3" catless down pipe with an O2 spacer. Car performed fine with it. Today I got an APR stage 1 93 octane tune. A few hours into the tune on my way home from work, I went to change lanes and the car hit some type of a wall with the RPMs. At around 3200 RPMs, the car felt like it went into limp mode. Did not let me pass 3200 RPMs. I got off the highway and had to keep the RPMs up because the car died at lights. Pulled into my driveway, plugged in my VCDS and there are absolutely no codes coming up. Nothing. But starting the car the car cranks and I have to give it gas for it I barely start.
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What's the best tune for this motor? I have an hs mini max with the spe hot tune and has nothing but problems towing with with it. They swore up and down for a year I was the only one with issues for a year and then finally admitted it's not good for towing and lots of people had issues with it so they gave me their towing tune for free but it isn't very good either.
The hot tune is a little too hot and keeps going into limp mode when towing up hills even on the lowest stock setting, or really getting on the throttle on any setting not to mention way too high of boost for a stock turbo at 30-32 on every level . It makes sports cars look slow before hitting limp mode though.
Their tow tune fixed that problem but it's boost is too low at only 18-19 (had 24 running stock Ford programming) and it smokes like crazy, more smoke on higher settings without getting any faster or any more boost. It doesn't smoke much on the stock setting but clearly the other settings aren't very well tuned.
I want a tune that will tow 25k without issues and smoke(not literally) sports cars off the line at factory boost level s so it doesn't blow the turbo.
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I have an automatic (ugh) 2002 Jetta 1.8T that is displaying some fun stuff. My kneejerk reaction is that the ECU is croaking but wanted to run it by some people with more experience/smarts.
Here's the deal. I don't get any codes, ever. Sometimes, when I turn the ignition to on (Before starting) all of my warning lights are dim and will flicker, and the gear indicator at the bottom of the cluster rapidly switches between each gear. If I start the car like this, I can hear the shift lock randomly engaging and disengaging. If I actually try to drive, it'll shift hard into reverse, shift normally into drive, and then drive in limp mode. I only drove this way three times before figuring out the next bit. Each time, either the traction control or air bag warning lights came on and stayed on.
I've noticed that if I turn the ignition to "on" and it's acting up, all I have to do is leave it on for a few seconds, turn the ignition back off, and turn it back on; sometimes it'll take 2-3 tries but it always seems to work. Then the warning lights come on bright and steady, the car starts like normal, and drives great.
So, is it the ECU? Is it demons?
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I have a Mk4 1.8t , I left a light on and near killed the battery one night , was parked on a hill so I let it roll start.( I know this is where I went wrong so lets get past it....) It started in what sounds like some type of limp mode, dim dash lights and about 300-400rpm. cruised at about 10mph for say a 1/4 mile before the engine returned to normal rpm and lights returned to proper brightness.. now the car has a problem I cant seem to put my finger on. When it gets to about 3000rpms it bucks and begins to throw multi misfire codes making it hard to even get to 30mph.
It reminds me of how it felt when all the coils started failing but I know it cant be that because its all new , (plugs ,coils,) I have also replaced a few other easy parts such as the n75 and the diversion valve next to it, as well as the fuel pump and filter. One thing I noticed when I leave my n75 unplugged (wide open) it seems to run better making it easier to drive but if I go anywhere past 1/4 throttle it bucks and struggles. I've used the Autel to scan it for other codes but the only thing I get is random multi mis codes and mis codes for each individual cylinder.
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The wife's Jetta wagon has been giving us some issue. It is a 2001 2.0 AZG engine auto trans wagon. 195,000 highway miles and well serviced and taken care of.
Here is the symptom : Engine will NOT rev over 3200. It will hit 3200 and stop dead. This is the case either in gear and driving or just sitting in Neutral. The engine seems to take a bit longer to start but does every time. The car seems to run great other then the 3200 rpm ceiling.
Wife has been driving it around like this for a while and I have let the codes accumulate. Here is the codes it gave me.
16727-cam position sensor- I just replaced the CPS with no improvement, issue is still there and code still pops up. I was told this code comes on when the car does not fire on the first rotation anyhow so it could be something else.
16804-cat o2 bank 1
16990-ICM issue
Cleared the codes and restarted the car. 16727 comes on immediately but other codes take a while to come on again.
I am leaning towards maybe an electrical issue? Bad ground, alternator output or something. Any tips on places of ground, connectors etc to clean and check? Also one or two guys keep mentioning coolant temp sensor and crank position sensor...but wouldn't those toss a code too?
I also pondered a plugged cat but I dunno, have had that before and you can usually tell right away...the car runs great until it hits 3200 and it is like a governor kicks in and she stops dead at 3200.
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so i was driving the vw and the car starts surging like its in limp mode but no cel! so i stopped and checked my engine bay to see if maybe my intercooler piping came loose but nothing! so i shut it off for about 5 seconds and turned it back on and it threw a cel! the whole time i was driving it home felt like it was going in and out of limp mode and would not boost past 4 psi! check the cel and came back as this:
P0238 turbo/supercharger boost sensor a ckt high input
p0106 map/baro ckt rng perform
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We have a 2006 Passat, 30K miles, live in northeast on a Great Lake. We bought it used in 5/07 with 11K miles on it. The other day, a whole mess of warning lights came on, and the car went into "limp mode." The dealership diagnosed corroded wires where they connect to the throttle valve controller. We usually keep our cars for years, and we've never had corroded wires before. Is this a typical problem of VW's? The service mgr said he'd seen about 6 come in in the last year, but I don't know if that's a lot or a few compared to other brands. We're getting ready to shop for cars again, and we'd consider a new Jetta, but not if it can't go out in the rain. Also, if the wires corroded once, what will keep them from corroding again? Should we expect this to keep happening?
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I have a 2002 gti with an apt software tune...
Whenever I'm on the interstate in 5th gear for a while. And I'll start to speed up. Once 4k kicks in. My boost no longer works when it normally pushes like 22psi
Then after slowing down. No matter what gear I'm in. It limits back to 10psi of boost and once I hit 4k. It goes super slowe and boost won't work
The guy told me that I should get a smoke test done (idk where or how to do that)for my vacuum lines and that I have a cylinder 4 misfire. It may be a bad coil or spark plug. But I'd like to get some performance out of my car and I don't know what else or where to start. I am new to this.
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I'm a little bit stuck here. This happened last night, and the dealer is closed today. I have a 2008 Santa Fe SE. It stalled last night, and when I turned it back on, I got a check engine light, the ESC light, and the AWD transmission light blinking. When I go to accelerate, it will not go passed 2000 RPM, and it is driving very sluggish. Its not knocking, or making any other kind of sounds. The air conditioning does not work, but the fan blows uncooled air. It accelerates extremely slowly, even with the petal mashed.
I plan on taking it in tomorrow, but I'd like to know if there is some way to reset the computer. I tried disconnecting the battery for about 30 minutes, but it didn't work.
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So I was driving kinda hard yesterday on the highway, and it was about 80 degrees outside. At some point in the drive, I got no boost from the turbo at all (my gauge also was showing no boost). I pulled over, stopped the car, and restarted it, and the car was back to normal. Is this something I should be worried about? I am running 93 program APR Stage 1+ with VWR intake and HPFP.
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So on cold mornings my r has been kicking on the epc light and gone to limp mode. The only codes are for the coolant temp sensor and an intermittent accelerator position sensor. Would the temp sensor really cause this? After awhile I can start it up and it runs fine.
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So the other day as I was trying to accelerate my car had absolutely no power at all. it almost seemed like it went into a limp mode or something of the sort. No matter what gear or how much gas i gave it, it barely chugged along at more than an idle. I pulled over turned it off, then waited a few seconds and turned it back on, same deal. Once more, I turned it off and back on and finally, it seemed to be ok. It flashed a warning light but it cleared after I turned off the car.
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My Jetta mkiv transmission went into limp mode recently. Took it into shop. They checked it out and they replaced solenoids as well as the TCU. Car still goes into limp mode. It doesn't happen all the time but enough to piss me off. Any thoughts?? Car only has 140000 miles.
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03 manual goes into limp mode with ac on like turbo has no power and wont go past 65. No engine light comes on though. Does engine light have to come on to go into limp mode??
I don't have Vag Com. But i'm familiar with diesels. Maybe something is losing vacuum when a/c comes on because i know the ducts and all that work off vacuum in most cars. Does the ducts for TDi work off vacuum also??? Maybe not enough vacuum going to VNT activator?? I'm clueless with these cars.
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I have a 98 F-150 that just went under a trans rebuild. It now will NOT shift from 1st to 2nd. It revs up to 3200rpm's, shifts to 2nd then chirps the tires as it immediately slams back to 1st. Is it possibly a solenoid issue? Looking for some useful info.
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Just had this happen to me yesterday and cant figure it out. Cruising at normal speeds and shifting into 5th gear at about 2000 rpm. when to apply throttle and the car chocked or slipped then regained power. Almost like it went into limp mode for a second or traction control kicked in. Im not sure what it could be.
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New to the jetta (used to own Saabs so not new to issues) OK, 2003 jetta 2.0 CEL is on for the CAM Post sensor. Car is in limp mode. has been for a while before I touched the car. I have replaced the Cam post sensor, I replaced the Crank Post sensor, replaced the coil pack, replaced the water pump and the timing belt. I have searched a lot of the other threads before posting this one. Triple checked the timing (3 people did not just me) I replace all the other stuff because I had codes the water pump and the timing belt just because they were due. i had one last code P0343 so when i replaced the WP and the TB i replaced the sensor. Still in limp mode, still have the code i pulled the plug on the Cam post sensor. then i said to my self this car should NOT start. but it did start and i drove it around a little, shut it down and car started up again so I am at a complete loss.
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I have a 02 Jetta TDI, I have had the car
For about 8mo, and have been fighting a random limp mode problem the whole time.
I have gone thru and changed the common issues, N75, MAF, actuator on the turbo, and changed all the vacuum lines, fuel filter..... Etc. I'm to the point I want to light the car on fire, and see if the engine light goes off!!! Is there something that I have overlooked.
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Went out to start my car today it had a rough time cranking over and when It started had a cel and in limp mode.
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I currently own a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. It is currently tuned for 15 psi supposedly. I have never seen that number been hit and the highest it will go(only in 4th and 5th gear) is 13-14psi on a good day. And even when it does get there it does not hold the boost what so ever. It will start losing boost almost as soon as it reaches those numbers. Another thing is my MAF is currently unplugged and is making my car throw a code. When MAF is plugged in it cuts out boost and goes into "limp" mode.
Here are some engine mods that may be apart of this issue:
- Front mount intercooler, full intercooler pipe kit
- Oem diverter valve
- N75 j valve
- ACHTUNING tune on 15 psi not sure which stage
- Forged turbo inlet pipe
- 032 motorsports crankcase breather hose conversion
- Ecs tuning
- 2.0t coilpacks and mounting plate
- AWP head
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2001 Jetta 1.8T wolfsburg
When I start my car the ASR light is already on and I cannot turn it off by hitting the button. It's just permanently on. Then as I start to drive and step on the throttle and get above 3000rpm the ECP light turns on and my car goes into "limp mode". Then in idle the engine stutters and RPMs go up and down, up and down. I'll turn off the car and the ECP light disappears but comes right back on again after getting above 3000rpm.
Thing is, these issues only appeared immediately after the following:
-Disconnected and reconnected CCM (checking for faulty wiring, battery was connected during this)
-Disconnected battery terminals for 3 minutes and reconnected them (no key in ignition)
Did I cause an issue by disconnecting battery?
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