I was on the highway a couple days ago and i was in sit and go traffic. When i would accelerate everything was fine but when i would come down to a stop or slowing down at about 1500 rpm i felt the car shake or jerk back and forth. It was too a point where I was scared and about to pullover the highway. Car has 1k miles and its a DSG.
View 1 RepliesMy 2005 2.7L 6 cylinder Sebring with 100800 miles that was running fine just started jerking on me last week. It runs fine untill I get it up to 2750RPMs. Its like its getting gas, then not getting gas and jerks forward all in less than a second and then again, and again and again, until I drop the RPMs back down. Any clue on what I should be looking for?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Santa Fe that for the last week or so has been slipping/jerking at about 2500rpms (2nd and 3rd gear). This only happens after the car has been warmed up and running for 20 minutes or so. I have put it into manual and it does not do this, only when in auto.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford Focus ZX5 with about 108,000 miles on it. It's driven far distances, about 700 miles round trip, a couple times a month. About about three times since last summer, approximately halfway through one leg (at around 200 miles in), the engine starts jerking when accelerating. It doesn't happen on every trip, and seems to only happen on hotter days.
(Driving around town short distances, even at high RPMs doesn't present a problem at all, it's specifically after a couple hundred miles.) The engine light has flashed, but not every time the jerking occurs and hasn't stayed on, and the code that was pulled doesn't seem to be telling either the mechanics or Ford know what the deal is. I'm looking at having the whole transmission swapped for well over a grand, but with the disclaimer that it's not a guaranteed fix.
Me and the wife just now noticed this issue after about a week of owning this 6.0 f350 auto 4x4. Leaf spring front and rear. Long bed. Listing all this stuff because not sure if it matters.
Around 50mph if we drive normally about 1500rpm the truck seems to jerk a little as we climb in speed. If we get the truck into the 2000rpm range it goes away.
Not sure if it's suspension, transmission or engine. Any clue what it could be. ???
Is this a sign of a turbo going out or ? my GTI currently has 1700 miles on it and not all the time, but in the past 1700 miles the car has stumbled or jerked around a bit when at idle, i.e. the rpm's don't do anything but it seems like it's misfiring or something a few times then generally clears out. Same when driving sometimes, cruising along and it seems to misfire or stumble around but it clears up as well. Haven't noticed anything else weird but it's annoying and worrisome.
View 8 RepliesI have the following code's P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306
I have change all spark plug and coil and it still their.
As soon as i go off throttle the check engine start flashing and then when I go on throttle again the car is jerking and got no power.
After a time the check engine light stay on full time and I have big power loss.
I have check for leaks spraying start pilot on every intake junction to see if I had a leak ( engine should rev from sucking start pilot) doesn't seams that I got a leak.
So I'm thinking of the following:
- Bad Maf
- Bad fuel pump
- Bad driveter valve
- injector. But 6 failing at same time would be strange
- cam sensor
When shifting gears, mainly in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd while the air conditioner is on I'm experiencing jerking / clunking. When I shift it's not a smooth movement and produces a thump. The only way to really avoid this is by letting the clutch out very very slowly. It only happens when the A/C is turned on. Shifting is perfect when the A/C is off.
View 6 RepliesI started to notice that when backing and starting out in D or S from a stop that the clutch acted funny by jerking the car.
The mectronics (sp?) unit was recalled and replaced because I bought a CPO R32. I took it to the dealership and confirmed with the service manager and they are replacing the unit again because they think it is a "bad unit".
It's only in manual with about 30-50% throttle shifting around 3K RPM and only from 1st-2nd-3rd, after that it's fine.
View 23 RepliesI just did a stage 1 remap on a 2010 golf r, everything is works like a charm. However, when I lift-off the throttle the car jerks hard. This only occurs on the first start and cures itself after a drive. I could simply replicate the problem by shutting down the engine and turning it back on. it doesn't have to be cold. it seems to be the ecu forgot everything it learn after i switch off the engine. Happens in all gears including reverse. noticed that during reverse, the car seem to go fast with light throttle , and back to normal once the problem is cured after a drive. Had no issues before the tune.
View 8 RepliesWhen I start up my engine, I hear a chain noise coming from the top of the engine. It's like a belt running chains. Also when I reverse the DSG it's a jerking sensation normal or should i get it fixed by VW.
View 8 RepliesWhen I drove the car on Monday a hesitation/jerking randomly came out of no where during mild acceleration at around 2500 RPM. The next day it was doing the same thing, but one of the times it made the check engine light flash a couple times then go off. On Wednesday I put fuel injector cleaner and a new tank of gas in it to see if that worked at all, but it didn't. The problem was still occurring then the engine light came on and stayed on. So I went to see what the problem was on VCDS and here are the errors that came up. Also I should mention that on Tuesday my battery died and I had to get a jump from someone, this didn't affect the problems, but I think it has something to do with the voltage errors.
A Summary of the errors is lots of things about "low voltage b+" and "engine misfires".
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....
2002 Jetta 2.0.... car was jerking when accelerating and check engine light was flashing, severe loss of power and when stopped at lights it would shake and the rpms would drop and go back up... took it in and was told to get the coil pack replaced. One week later new coil pack - check engine light is back on and yesterday same problem (car was idling rough, and severe jerking/flashing check engine light happened again). Took it to autozone to read the code it is giving P0420.... The shop said i might need new plugs and wires, which were replaced with bosch parts one year ago. Any chances these went bad so quickly?
View 3 RepliesThe car is a 2002 VW Jetta, automatic 1.8t GLS. 146k miles on it. Has an external amp/sub wired up by my brother who is an MECP certified tech and has been doing car audio and overall Audi/VW for years.
I was driving, nothing out of the usual, this car is my daily. Stopped because of traffic and my car died in the middle of traffic, the gauges (tach, speedo, gas, etc) spiked immediately, which I assumed meant loss of electricity, but my radio, headlights and everything else stayed on. The oil and Battery lights came on as well. Tried to start it, it was trying to start, and was cranking quickly, but wouldn't turn over. I got it out of traffic. I pulled my amp power and the car turned over and started driving like normal, so i figured there had been a short in the wire and that was what caused my issue. Drove about a half mile down the road, car shut off again, car said it needed oil this time. checked the oil, there was plenty, but i put more in to be safe, and it turned right over and i managed to drive it about 30 minutes and got it back to my house.
So, my brother and i look the car over, couldn't find anything really wrong with it, so we took it out for a drive, no problem at all for the first few minutes of driving. Car shuts off again, doing the same thing, but just the battery light came on. My brother jumped my car, it turned over, but as i started to drive it, it was a lot more rough with shifting (possibly tied to electrical problems because i know there is a solenoid cluster for automatic transmissions), i mean you could actually hear the gears shifting and the car was kicking through each gear, as well as my driver side headlight not turning on (just installed brand new xantec 6k 55w HIDs, but i dont think those are the problem because the problem started before i installed the HIDs) and died 3 more times before i got it home, having to jump the car every single time with symptoms the same as the first time it died without the oil light. Another thing i noticed is that the car seemed to only die when i hit the brakes and the car went to low RPMs, which lead me to believe a major vacuum leak. At idle the car also seemed like it was misfiring even though the CEL was not flashing, it just had the jerking feeling and sound of misfiring.
My brother and i take a better look into the bay area, and noticed that the top of my engine was covered in oil, from the intake manifold back. I know my car has been leaking oil, but not spraying it. We pulled everything apart, totally cleaned the engine bay area out including MAF, spark plugs, coil packs etc. The engine bay area looked practically brand new. Now i do know that my car has had a vacuum leak (no boost gauge to tell how bad, but the brakes were a little bit less responsive and the car was acting as though it was misfiring despite the fact that the coil packs and spark plugs are brand new) and we couldn't find where it was, and we thought that maybe that was the problem. A lot of the vacuum line was dry rotted and falling apart and some parts weren't even connected anymore from that, which we replaced all of the line we could find to eliminate the idea of a vacuum leak causing the car to die when i hit the brakes. We also tested the battery with a multi-meter which read variably between 13.8-14 V, which if i understand correctly is within normal range, but oddly enough we put the battery through a stress test including turning on defrosted, turning sound system back on, headlights on etc, and the voltage didn't read much different, still bouncing between 13.8-14.
When tearing things apart, we also found that the starter solenoid was unbelievably loose due to a bad transmission mount, and one bolt was missing, so we were thinking that could be arcing causing the problems, but when the solenoid was tightened down, the problems still persisted.
Started the car, let it warm up, and it seemed perfectly fine. I drove it into town without problems, but forgot my wallet at home, so i had to turn around and go back. Almost made it home, the car died while stopping at a stop sign. Tried turning it back over, nothing the first 3 times, let it sit for about 5 minutes and the car turned right over as if nothing was wrong. Died again when i made it into my driveway about 0.5 miles away and the symptoms repeated until the car finally just turns on like normal now, but the idle is at 1100 RPMS (not sure if related or not) even though the car is at the optimal temperature. I tried driving it again after the car starts normally like it does now, but it just repeats the symptoms that it has been, cutting off but leaving the stereo, headlights etc on. I managed to get it back in my driveway.
Here is the problem. When I reversed the car out of the driveway i noticed it would not reverse freely. It felt as though something was blocking the car (as though the handbrake was still on).. When i turn left and right going slowly it feels like the car is jerking and the brake pads are sticking to the rotors.. Its the same when i reverse but I only feel it when im going slowly and the sound gets louder when turning left or right...
I checked all my break pads and rotors.. Im thinking it could be something with the haldex system... Hope not.. My haldex fluid was changed at 80k and im at 88k now..
Me and my buddy that has a 2012 GLI where playing with our cars and i noticed that he is at 4,000rpms in second gear @40mph, while my car (2010GTI) was at 4600rpms....Both of us have 6 speed manuals.. What could cause this other than gearing? I don't think the gearing is different since to my knowledge both cars and trannys are the same...or am i wrong?
View 17 RepliesSo I've been having this issue for a while and I think I know what it is, just wanting to confirm it is the problem before I go fixing it. My car idles at high RPM's, at around 1-2k when I am sitting at a stop sign or stop light. I replaced the MAF sensor but that wasn't the issue. I assume that it is the throttle body or the sensor.
Also, I came out the other day to park my car in the garage and I saw a huge puddle of water where the passenger puts his/her feet. It was all in the carpet and I just dried it up. It was raining out but I don't think I have a leak or anything. I was told it might be my heater core that went out and that the AC is the problem.
I've been trying to figure out what exactly is going on with my car but its hard to explain/describe it so I've decided to video it..
Driving + shifting + holding my phone + my GTI is spun all the way down on coils = shakie video.
In Video #1, I'm in 4th gear at 2800 RPM and gave it full throttle. Watch it closely at 0:04 you will notice how the RMP just jump back a little and then continue accelerating while the boost is holding at 15psi.
Video #2, same story at 0:04 except the boost jumps back as well.
It does NOT seem normal and im not sure whats wrong and where to even start.
Slipping clutch?
Diverter Valve?
Boost/vacuum leak?
Turbo into DP leak?
My GTI is APR Stage II, intake and catless turboback exhaust.
Video #1
Video #2
I have been noticing that my GTI seems jerky (head bobbling) at low CONSTANT speeds on the highway during my morning commute. For example if I leave it in first and get the speed constant at 10-15km at 1,000 - 1,500 rpms I feel the car to be jerky. Even at low speed/rpm gear changes (1'st - 2nd). Anything past 2,000k RPM is fine though.
Is this normal? Or should I bring this up with my dealer and have them take a look at it. It's just annoying because I don't notice this in the city, just only in bumper to bumper highway driving at a constant low speed in 1st/2nd.
Gotta love Turbo weather, but my stock clutch is at its limits. It has never missed a beat rowing through the gears, but I can't roll into 5th and 6th anymore. Car feels considerably faster in the colder weather. May be time for a clutch soon, at 70K anyway.
View 1 Replies