Golf/GTI VII :: Jerkiness Caused By DSG / Inconsistent Brake Feel
Apr 16, 2015
Carefully modulating the brake in this car to offset any jerkiness caused by the DSG riding the gears down eventually became second nature to me and I am pretty good at keeping things nice and smooth. As of late however, my brakes are all over the place and it's driving me insane. If the person ahead of me stops short pulling up to a light and I need to follow suit, my brakes will often BITE hard resulting in a not so subtle jolt. Other times I don't get nearly as much stopping power as I think I should given how much force I'm putting on the pedal and I really have to bury it at the last minute. Not sure if these are a factor of the DSG downshifting at just the wrong moment or what, but it's gotten a bit unnerving.
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My 2004 Treg has 24,000 miles on it and though I still LOVE it, it has been in and out of the dealer for inconsistent power issues. Off and on there is a noticeable delayed response from when you engage the gas and when the vehicle responds. Not to mention the transmission feels very jerky and rough as well. I have heard numerous reasons for this, but this week I got a new reason! The VW dealership says that now it could be that my air filter is dirty and needs to be replaced! They said if the new air filter does not fix the problems that I will need a whole new computer system!! Does this make any sense?
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I own a stock 2010 golf with 22k miles on it. There seems to be a problem with brake feel. Brake pedal feels way too soft and there is way too much pedal travel for brakes to engage. Car won't start decelerating until pedal is pushed nearly 1/2 of its total travel length. However there seems no problem with stopping the car. On hard braking car stops well (with ABS). Another problem is brake feel isn't linear.
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So after my first track day i bleed my brakes and they felt great for about 3 days, but then the pedal feel started to deteriorate back to its old crappy feel where nothing happens until its depressed to the same depth as the gas pedal...
In other words, I have about a solid 1.5 inches of travel with nothing happening.
Fixes? Bleeding procedure? I heard we have to prime our abs pumps? yes no?
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I've had my R32 for a week now and I'm starting to develop some questions. This is one that I haven't been able to find an answer to by searching, so here it goes. When the ABS is active (coming to a hard stop on snow and ice, for example), I get a really strange almost "crunchy" feel through the brake pedal. ABS I've experienced on other cars hasn't been this harsh so I'm not sure if it's normal on these.
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Everyone month or so, for a few seconds at highway speeds I will get a hum/drone that is very loud. Its not consistent on when, or where I am driving as it has happened 3 or 4 times in different areas but all on the highway and between 60-80mph.
It lasts a few seconds and increased/decreases with speed but tapping the brakes does not affect it. Even changing speed or switch gears does not fix the issue, but eventually if I drop below 60ish mph then speed back up, it will go away, but even that is inconsistent and I may have to do it twice or more for the drone/hum to go away.
I would think it would be a weird position the wheel bearing gets into, but all the wheel bearings up front have both between replaced in the last 10 months. It does not sound like its coming from the rear.
Summary:
-Tapping the brake doesn't stop the noise
-Changing speed makes it louder or quieter and eventually when slowing down significantly it goes away
-Changing gears at speed does not affect it
-Inconsistent - once a month at most
-Only lasts a few moments
-Only at speeds 60+
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1999 V6 ... When I apply the brakes half way at any speed, I am getting clunking noise and feel. The noise is coming from the front passenger's side wheel. I don't believe it's a warped rotor. My thoughts are the brakes or suspension.
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In the past week, my car battery has died twice (Sunday morning after sitting for 45min and Friday night after sitting for all day). The car (2003 Jetta) immediately came back to life once the jumper cables were attached to another car. I've had the battery and alternator checked twice both with good results. I've checked for a drain on the battery while the car is off, and I'm getting 20mA. So everything seems to be fine. Why the battery could have died twice? Is it possible that something is turning on at random and sucking the power out of the battery?
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I'm having a turn signal issue with my '02 F-250 that started this morning out of the blue. Seems that when the signal switch is set for a right hand turn and the brakes are applied, the signal will then become solid, not flash, and then blow the fuse. Evidently something with the brake light circuit is overloading the turn signal circuit and not canceling when the turn signal is activated.
Here are a couple of things I have tried to narrow down the culprit.
1) Left turn signal works fine regardless if the brake lights are operating.
2) Brake light circuit operates fine by itself.
3) Right turn signal works fine but there seems to be a back-feed of power causing the center third brake light as well as the left side rear brake light to flash in unison. If brake lights are then activated, the flash stops and becomes constant thus blowing the fuse.
4) Emergency Hazard lights work perfect but the center third brake light again flashes as well which reverts back to some type of back-feed of power. Also, if brake lights come on, flashing turns to constant light and then blows the fuse again.
I guess my question is,. does this seem like the multi-function switch needs replacing or could this be a relay issue of some sort? I don' think its a ground issue simply because the left turn signal circuit as well as the center brake light circuit are both being breached when the right turn signal is activated. Your thoughts?
2002 F-250 Super Duty 5.4 V8
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Been having another strange issue(2011 gti) but after searching it seems 50% of people say it's normal. The car starts to warm up and finally reaches dead center 190, then until the car is fully warmed up I notice the temp gauge will drop a bit sometimes go back up then down a little again until the car is fully warmed up then it's fine for the rest of the day. I think it may be normal but the dealer wants to replace the thermostat anyway which requires a ton of other parts to be moved. Looking for opinions if its just how it works and have never noticed before or is it maybe my thermostat beginning to stick??
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Ok here is my question. I've noticed the power on my car has felt inconsistant for the last little while. I finally got around to logging the car and my boost peaks at mid 20's just over 3000 RPM and then drops fast to between 13-15 psi before I even get to 5000 RPM.
Under full boost I hear a low fluttering sound like the diverter valve opening and closing when this is happening. I also don't get the typical diverter valve sound when shifting when the car is doing this.
I took my diverter valve out and inspected it. I can pushing the piston up very easily with almost no resistance, is that normal? I would think that it should be hard to push the piston up if not wouldn't boost pressure be able to overcome the piston and leak past?
My mods are. HPA tune, HPA catted down pipe, and VWR intake.
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My 2002 camry has a vibration feel while pumping the brake pedal (no other vibration from car). It happens, when you drive slow or fast and stop. Happens when the engine is not even turned on and the brake pedal is just pumped. Its hard to describe the feeling other than zig zaggy on the way down, pulsating, etc. It starts to feel this way on the way down and halfway through the press ends smooth.
I took it to a auto mechanic two days ago and he stated the car had zero brake issues. Rotors and pads are in good condition (sometimes these are the cause for the vibration, but only when driving and stopping), fluid level are good etc. I asked him to test it out and pump it slowly or adruptly, at standstill or while driving, but he still couldn't understand what i was talking about. Researched on the net and found out the likely problem has to do with either Brake booster pump or Master brake cylinder. From a tsb (like a recall note from toyota, see below) , it seemed certain it had to do with the master brake cylinder. I took it to Toyota today and they stated it had to do with the brake booster pump instead , its not worth fixing bc it cost an arm and a leg. Just now i stopped by Active Green + Ross at 110 Gerrard and he stated that its most likely the Master Brake Cylinder, since if you were to pump on the brake while the car was off, turn on the ignition, and if the pedal goes down smoothly , the booster pump should be ok. (it does go down smoothly)
He also stated that for a refurb master cylinder (non toyota) + labour it would come out to 250 bucks. The dealership was going to charge me 1500 for the booster pump and labour. They also advised not to used non toyota parts.
This issue does not hamper safety issues with the car. Its more of an annoyance that i'd like to take care of. I also don't want to pay 1500 for a car with 150k on it.
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I went driving today and for a moment I could engage/disengage the clutch pedal with little to no effort. It goes back to the normal force after 3-4 shifts.
It's the exact opposite of what's happening in this thread. [URL] ....
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Any good fix for the door panel rattle caused by bass from the stereo? I've had the car to the dealership twice and it hasn't been fixed either time. It's not the door trim it's the actual panel, if you push right below and to the front of the arm rest it stops. Turning the bass down is not an option, if it's not meant to be up that far they shouldn't have made it that way. How hard is the door panel to remove? Also is there a fix for the seatbelt adjuster rattle?
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I had reason to believe that my back brakes needed replacing. While I was at it, I also attempted to swap out my front rotors, but was stopped when I was unable to remove my front brake calipers. All in all, I essentially did nothing. I checked the back brake drums and put those tires back on and then took front tires off and put them back on. I woke up today to drive to work, and and after getting about a mile down the road and going about 30-35 mph I noticed my wobble. It seemed to be coming from the front, but still hard to be sure. I know my rotors are a little warped, but I usually always experience that when braking, not when just coasting or accelerating. What to check on, or what I could have done? If it makes any difference, I am driving a 2002 Ford Taurus.
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My 2014 F-350 SRW always seemed to have spongy feeling brakes since day one and the e-brake has never been set-up to be very tight. Even though my truck has less than 25,000 miles on it, I'm half tempted to power bleed brakes to try to get a better brake pedal. All I know is that if I press the brake pedal on my '82 F-350 SRW as hard as I need to press the one my 2014 SD, it would try to put me through the windshield.
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I have a 2003 1.8t Jetta and I noticed my heater core is going bad (Common issue) so I smell G12 when I turn on my heat. But randomly and out of no where my car will start to over heat just a little. Never goes into the red though. Farthest it has ever been was about to the second mark past 190. It goes back down eventually and when I pop my hood it bubbles in the reserve a little and it does not do it again for about a few weeks or so. Could this be because of the heater core or might be a thermostat or bad coolant temp sensor?
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When coming to a hard stop and downshifting using engine braking, is it normal to have the brake pedal feel like it loses pressure to where the brake pedal pushes down further towards the floor for a split second? What causes that to occur?
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Recently purchased a 2005 F250 6.0. I noticed that sometimes when I brake it feels strange...like ABS activating in rear or something. Usually at 15-30mph when braking right after accelerating. Its a bit difficult to explain. I'm planning on getting a break inspection soon.
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The last few times I drove my car, I noticed the A/C didn't feel very cold. I checked today, and noticed that neither cooling fan comes on with the A/C on. My understanding is that both fans should be in LOW mode with the A/C on. Also, after idling for a while and even after doing some spirited driving and pulling over, the fans never turned on.
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I have had some weird feelings in my clutch after I launch my R hard, it feels like the clutch is tighter and has a different feel to it than with normal driving. car is stock for the most point and fairly new to me so I am not sure if anything has been replaced clutch wise. What the problem might be?
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