Golf/GTI VII :: Installing Mk7 Golf Cargo Net?
Jan 19, 2015
I've bought the accessory cargo net for my Mk7 Golf (5N0 065 111) but it's a flat-on-the-floor type, and I'd like a vertical version near the rear of the cargo area. It looks like there is some sort of rigging points on the sides of the interior panels right near the hatch, where a vertical net might fit. I find no such part from VW.
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I installed the pierburg revised DV yesterday because my old DV was shot, squealing and leaking boost. After installing it I noticed that when i'm under around 15 psi and i let it build up that I get this flutter I didnt have before. I assume its the wastegate but I haven't heard it prior to installing the new DV so my fear is that its the valve no circulating and its putting the unused psi back through the turbo (not good).
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-I currently have a CTS turbo intake, 42DD turboback and installed the Autotech HPFP. After we installed the HPFP and drove around the block I threw a CEL. (not sure the exact code # ) but it was related to the cam shaft.
We were unable to upload the 2+ tune because his computer which has his APR info is under repair. My guess is that I am throwing a CEL because I upgraded the HPFP but do not have a tune for it yet. Who else has installed a HPFP before getting the tune?
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So i have been looking to get some new headlights with the projector housing but noticed that most of them have a fog light which my car does not have. I know in order to get them to work properly i would need the euro switch, but would i need to run additional wires through the firewall?
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I have a 2013 gti. Lowering it in h&r super sports. I want some spacers to complete my look on the 50000km a year Car. Would 20mm spacers all around be to much?
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I'm interested in installing a staggered set of wheels on the R. The size I'm looking are 18x8.5 and 18x9.5. My question is what wheel sizes should I run to keep everything within spec of my Haldex unit? Ive read about staggered units having to be within 3 or 4% so nothing breaks down prematurely.
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Got my Magnaflow resonator in the mail today. Called up my exhaust shop and they are willing to tackle it but were wondering "where to cut" and "what about the internal baffles". Do you cut and shorten the center of the resonator by 7 inches or do you cut at one of the ends and shorten it from there 7 inches?
The picture I saw on TampaVW's thread shows it having been rewelded from the exit side (IIRC) but what about the internal baffles?
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So tonight I got the chance to install my H&R Rear sway bar on my car...let me start off by saying I was lucky enough to have a lift, air tools, all the correct tools, etc...now the frustrating part...i opened the box saw the bar and new bushings, figured this should be 100% straight forward 10 min job... the old bar came out in about 3 minutes...then I got the new bushings on the H&R Bar and went to put the factory brackets on...they wouldn't fit even close. Luckily I had a press so I pressed them on. Once I got the bar in the car I got the two top bolts started and could not for the life of me get the bottom two...its like they were 1/4in to low... Was I missing parts from H&R? also the factory caps/brackets seemed to sit off to the side of the new H&R bushings and there was no way to line them up straight, but I finally got everything on there..
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I installed my LEDs put in the fog trigger wire, did the vag com, and on my dash the rear fog icon pops up. BUT no rear fog, I still have a bulb out message as-well. I've triple checked all of my wiring today, and did not see anything wrong. I've tried replacing the bulb.
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Since I installed the Stage 2 VF I've been getting the p1143 code for my maf. I've tried two different maf's and the problem keeps coming back.
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There is only one DIY i can find that is still alive. I have a megan short shifter. Its already half way in. I just don't have any instructions and i am kind of at a loss as to where i go from here. Does this shifter change the way my reverse gear will be engaged? I mean will i need to pull the trigger up to go in reverse or will i still push down? Does the spring that came with the kit go under the sleeve or above it? Sounds confusing.
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How to install rivets to the subframe and rails of the car I can't figure it out to save my life and it just says to put the ecs bolt and but rivet installer but it literally does nothing the rivet literally slides in and out am I missing something.
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Brand new bumper came in without screws and nuts, it's ready for painting but i need the right hardware. (photos are simply for reference)
I want to keep the screws and nuts OEM meaning as close to as exact as possible without home depot or some lame arse hardware store, i'm talking about original VW if possible parts. Or at least the clips if anything at all. VW dealer hasn't supported much either, they just said go to Home Depot and buy some regular screws and u-nuts but I want everything as if it came straight off the dealership. I do not believe that all screws and nuts are created equal and where to get exact right hardware I need.
As far as I know the bottom needs 18 or so 5mm nuts and "u-nuts" that they screw into. And there's also the stock scoop, where to even start with screws on this one.
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The strut is lose, I can spin it hardly but I can't get the rotor to go down far enough, already disassembled the control arm but it didn't do much considering I couldn't move it forward or backward so the rotor still sits on a corner or the arm. I did the drivers side already.
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I'm looking at some wheels and the specs are 18x9.5 with 35mm offset, will it poke out or no? I can get them staggered but I would rather not?
Car is a 02 Tdi Golf 4 Door
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Installed a new dampener on the front passenger side. As soon as we lowered it off the jack it was higher. Pulled out of the driveway and lowered a bit, drove around the block settle a little more.
Now, three days later, it is still not level. Do I just need to keep driving it and let it settle? Will it not settle as low as the other because it is brand new and the rest of the kit is a year old? If so is the best thing just to just play with the other three corners till its level?
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Can I put 20" staggered wheels on my 08 r32?
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Just installed my Euro switch from USP Motorsports, When I have the DRL's on with fogs whichever side the flasher is activated on dims the L.E.D DRL instead of shutting it off or keeping it at full power. Is this normal?
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Just installed a set of euro tails with rear fog (non-LED). I also have front fogs on my car. I used the following VDCS changes in Central Electronics to activate the rear fog:
Byte 3 - Bit 1 set to 1 (1 rear fog light)
Byte 3 - Bit 2 set to 1 (1 reverse driving light)
Byte 4 - Bit 6 set to 0 (Rear fog deactivated)
Byte 18 - Bit 3 set to 1 (Cold diagnose rear fog lights active)
All lights work correctly, but I still get bulb out warnings for all four fog/reverse lights, i.e.
Front Left Fog
Front Right Fog
Rear Left Fog
Rear Right Reverse
I have cleared all CECM errors and the warning light disappears, but as soon as the fog lights are used, it comes back.
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So I just installed (well Strasse Autowerks did) my ECS downpipe with high flow yesterday, i have an 2010 GTI Unitronic 1+ and i've been using the car for an hour without any problem and then after that hour the check engine appeared and stays on in my dash.. some guy told me its normal because i have to upgrade to stage 2 so the error would disappear is that right??
And while being here i was also wondering, I'm going to have an intake later next week but what else do i need as equipment for the car for that upgrade?
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I just picked up a 2000 VR6 golf a few weeks ago. been doing lots and lots of reading. It needs a transmission and was wondering what other things should I do why tranny is out of the way. I know some things can either only be done with tranny out or are a hell of a lot easier with it out of way. So what are your recommendations. Looking to pick up a tranny and get this bad boy on the road asap. Car ran great no issues or sounds my buddie just shifted to 3rd on highway and something walked loose in tranny and kaboom she went.
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